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Safety -- Make sure you are safe!

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  #1  
Old 2005-11-01, 7:58pm
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SassyCassie SassyCassie is offline
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Default Sheet Metal vs. Fireproof backing

I finally got the green light from my honey to take over a room in the basement and come out of the frigid garage! *cheers*!

Anyhoo...I'm wanting to make one of those enclosed areas for making beads and wonder if it matters if I use sheet metal or fireproof backing for the sides. I already have an adequate fan...am getting a hood of sorts built (is that necessary too or can I mount the fan in the bottom of a cabinet to run outside with venting)?

I get to basically build this from scratch...and I'm doing all of the non-licensed construction...thanks!

Cass

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 2005-11-01, 9:31pm
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Dale M. Dale M. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SassyCassie
I finally got the green light from my honey to take over a room in the basement and come out of the frigid garage! *cheers*!

Anyhoo...I'm wanting to make one of those enclosed areas for making beads and wonder if it matters if I use sheet metal or fireproof backing for the sides. I already have an adequate fan...am getting a hood of sorts built (is that necessary too or can I mount the fan in the bottom of a cabinet to run outside with venting)?

I get to basically build this from scratch...and I'm doing all of the non-licensed construction...thanks!

Cass

Thanks!


You could pull the gasses out the bottom, but it may take more blower capacity than if you vent out top... Since you are in basement and the hot gasses tend to rise, I think it would be more practical to put vent fan on top and pull gases out top, because they have to go up to get out of basement anyway.

Dale
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  #3  
Old 2005-11-01, 11:27pm
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I should have clarified....coming out the bottom of a cabinet over the torch area. (just to hide it)

Thanks Dale!

Cass
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  #4  
Old 2005-11-02, 7:04am
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Use sheet metal - it's lighter in weight, easier to fabricate, and (usually) less expensive.

Put the fireproof backer on the floor to protect carpets or wood floors, but if you have concrete floors, I'd still put "something" on the floor - concrete is usually cold and will pull the heat from your body, plus glass falling to the floor will almost always break on concrete, but has a higher survival chance with some other material, such as composition board.
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Old 2005-11-02, 9:30am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SassyCassie
I should have clarified....coming out the bottom of a cabinet over the torch area. (just to hide it)

Thanks Dale!

Cass
Oops ... Actually MY bad!.... I though when you said "cabinet", I though you were refering to something like a "Barley box" or "fume cabinet", not over head storage cabinet...

Yes you can come "out" through (overhead) cabinet if you want to for appearance.

Dale
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  #6  
Old 2005-11-02, 10:01am
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Thanks guys....you've both been immensely helpful. I'm glad to hear it's a cost thing vs a safety thing for the vent...this definately gives me options as I'm still very much in the planning stage. We have to take out a glass block from the windows...but fortunately there is a fitting like a dryer vent that will just pop right in. The goal is to make it "blend" as much as possible as we do entertain in our basement and even though it is in another room...it is in a room that people will pass through (attached bathroom).

Thanks again..and you KNOW I'll be back when I run into a snag!

Cass
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  #7  
Old 2005-11-02, 10:16am
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Whoops....hold up a moment!

DO NOT use small diameter ducting for your vent hood. You want to use at least 6" diameter smooth sided metal ducting, and depending on the size of the fan and length of the run, 8" might be better.

I've rarely seen vent covers for 6" or larger ducting - if you've found some, great!, but don't decrease the duct size and use one designed for smaller ducting. Many times these "self closing" duct covers are good for clothes dryers, but they are not designed for ventilation systems that are running for long periods of time. The louvers tend to stick and any back pressure because one or more louvers are stuck shut will seriously affect your total ventilation system. It is far better to stick the duct straight out the opening, and if need be, use a 45 degree and point it down towards the ground. Put some 1" screen in the open duct to prevent birds, critters and/or bugs from entering. It is perfectly fine to install a damper (adjustable flap) inside the ducting to close it off when the ventilation system is not in use, just remember to open it before you turn the fan on.
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  #8  
Old 2005-11-02, 10:35am
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I have to agree with Mike.... 4 inch dryer duct is too small...... 6 inch minimum, 8 inch better.....

Dale M.
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  #9  
Old 2005-11-04, 12:48pm
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Heather/Ericaceae Heather/Ericaceae is offline
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Default External vent finishing - picture?

Hmm... interesting tip - I'd been looking for a vent cover, too, for my permanent studio, and wondering why no-one carried them in 8" diametres. I was thinking of a finished look, too, and a way to keep water out. Getting the correct downward angle right will be important (and tricky) because a blast gate won't keep out water... Could someone post a picture and/or diagram of the *outside* of their correctly-installed exhaust vent? Thanks so much! -Heather

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeAurelius
I've rarely seen vent covers for 6" or larger ducting - if you've found some, great!, but don't decrease the duct size and use one designed for smaller ducting. Many times these "self closing" duct covers are good for clothes dryers, but they are not designed for ventilation systems that are running for long periods of time. The louvers tend to stick and any back pressure because one or more louvers are stuck shut will seriously affect your total ventilation system. It is far better to stick the duct straight out the opening, and if need be, use a 45 degree and point it down towards the ground. Put some 1" screen in the open duct to prevent birds, critters and/or bugs from entering. It is perfectly fine to install a damper (adjustable flap) inside the ducting to close it off when the ventilation system is not in use, just remember to open it before you turn the fan on.

Last edited by Heather/Ericaceae; 2005-11-04 at 12:51pm.
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  #10  
Old 2005-11-04, 1:17pm
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45 degrees down angle is all you need. Use a standard duct angle and set it for 45 degrees.
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  #11  
Old 2005-12-14, 9:21pm
Mr.Head Mr.Head is offline
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hey heather call up wholesale heating on century in the peg theyll have or make whatever need when it comes to ducting parts!
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  #12  
Old 2005-12-16, 12:54pm
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Heather/Ericaceae Heather/Ericaceae is offline
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Thanks Mr. Head! I've got a basic vent system in now but I'll be upgrading the "ugly bits" as I go. The tricky part is finding suppliers that are open on weekends and evenings... -H.
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