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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips |
2016-12-12, 12:58pm
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Hey, folks!
Just managed to add two new colors to the bottle-glass roster, a true blue and a true green:
Mu Sake, Jun-Mai Daiginjyo
Tastes like sweet, slightly fruity urglefloggah. Comes in both small and large etched bottles. Fairly soft and easy to work, but has a tendency to scum if worked too hot. Slightly lighter than Pinnacle, although this can be difficult to see unless in solid applications. The color's so pretty that you won't care much if it scums, because that makes it look like blue lace agate.
Pure Dusk Shumuzu-no-mai Junmai Daiginjo Sake
Another find at Whole Foods, which occasionally comes up with interesting surprises. Small etched bottle, fairly soft, although prone to shattering if heated too quickly, and work it cool! It scums easily when overheated, and may devitrify as well. Comes out as a gorgeous light celadon, firmly between Coke and Welch's. Definitely worth the effort.
I wish that I could show you a picture of these, but my computer's art program has vanished down the rapacious maw of Windows 10.
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2016-12-15, 7:19am
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Gosh love this thread! Thanks for all the info.
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2016-12-26, 11:06am
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Hi!
I just received a devardi hotpot for melting glass and plan to use it to upcycle glass bottles and such.
My question is - do you anneal the rods after creating them or just use them?
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Vicki
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2016-12-27, 10:41am
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I don't pull rods so much as I pull stringer--the thickest ones aren't much more than an eighth of an inch thick. Between the thinness of the stringer and the hardness of the glass, they don't really need it. So long as I can avoid trapping air bubbles in the glass during the initial melt, they work perfectly fine.
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2016-12-27, 5:50pm
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Thanks!
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Vicki
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2016-12-27, 6:32pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woozles
Hi!
I just received a devardi hotpot for melting glass and plan to use it to upcycle glass bottles and such.
My question is - do you anneal the rods after creating them or just use them?
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Let me know how it works for you on melting bottles. I got one and couldn't get it hot enough to melt bottles with just propane... I haven't tried to hook up oxy/propane to it yet. It's been sitting in my garage for months now.
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2016-12-28, 7:18am
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That is interesting, I saw someone selling one on facebook and had a pm conversation with her about melting bottle glass and she reported that it did a good job melting bottle glass. I have plans to try it out this weekend!
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Vicki
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2016-12-30, 2:20pm
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wow!! so much info! thank you for sharing!!! i may have to go to the party store for research purposes of course...hehe
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Littlecrow Glass & Pottery
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2017-01-07, 1:47pm
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Hey, all, here's another color to report:
James Keiller & Son Dundee Ginger Preserve
Honest-to-Stosh milk glass, or something very like it. The preserves are very good, too. Try them! Very soft for bottle glass, shatters easily if heated up too fast. Work it cool! This stuff can't be much harder than 104 or 96 COE. Works very easily and acts much like CiM Peace, holding its shape well in sculptural work. Color is similar to Peace as well, but is slightly translucent in small spacers and thin applications. All in all, it's a very nice color.
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2017-01-07, 2:01pm
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Wow, that's kinda a lost art isn't it? Packaging in white glass?
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ESC
Soft glass on a Minor/concentrator since 1996
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2017-01-07, 7:38pm
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Yup. Thankfully, some folks still value tradition over their bottom line, and glass has the advantage of not leaching weird chemicals into the food or making it smell like plastic. This is sort of important when you're dealing with aggressive preservatives like vinegar, sugar, salt, and alcohol. I expect that clear glass is cheaper than white, too, which is why milk glass jars are rarely seen these days.
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2017-01-13, 1:20pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woozles
That is interesting, I saw someone selling one on facebook and had a pm conversation with her about melting bottle glass and she reported that it did a good job melting bottle glass. I have plans to try it out this weekend!
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Hey Vicki! Did you get a chance to try the devardi hot pot on some bottles? Would love to hear how it did for you.
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2017-04-22, 7:44pm
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Working on tanked O2 now so it is possible for me to melt bottles. I was trying to make beads using strips of glass but was really struggling with the weird shape so I made some rods and it worked much better. This set Was made from a wine bottle. I also have a
Bombay Sapphire Gin bottle I'm gonna chop up and melt.
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Norma
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2017-04-23, 8:37am
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Nice! I need to get me some of that silver wire. Leaf and foil just don't hold up well with bottle glass.
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2017-04-29, 12:22pm
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I finally got the labels off the bottle of Bombay Sapphire Gin, got it cut into strips, and pulled rods to make some beads. I will be making a necklace and earrings with the smaller bead grouping to bribe the owner of a restaurant into saving the cool bottles for me. I don't love the bumpy bead, but was trying to see what I could do with the glass
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Norma
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2017-04-30, 2:10am
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Nice! How did it handle?
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2017-04-30, 6:56am
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It scummed pretty easily so I had to use a cooler flame. The bottle itself is a bit thicker than other bottles so it is a little harder to break. I like to break it down into strips then melt them and pull rods. I know I got some bubbles in my rods but they didn't shock or shatter. The silver I used fumed it, but the pieces I made without silver were super sparkly. It's a great color.
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Norma
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2017-05-19, 9:33pm
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Thanks to everyone who share their experience and ideas!!!
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2017-05-20, 11:05am
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Here is a variety of some recent recycled glass pendants...
Beer, vodka, wine, pink and green depression glass and Bombay sapphire gin...
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2017-05-22, 3:58am
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Has anyone tried old carnival glass? Of course I'm thinking already broken....
Some I thought the irridescent color was sprayed on, and the real old stuff it wasn't sprayed on.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Kristin
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2017-05-22, 10:51am
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I've tried using iridescent glass before, the Bullseye fusible stuff, and didn't get very good results. It doesn't take direct flame very well, or the constant fluctuations in temperature that torchwork involves. You could try treating it like dichroic, laying it coated-side down so that the base glass provides a protective coating.
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2017-05-22, 1:10pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin Passovoy
I've tried using iridescent glass before, the Bullseye fusible stuff, and didn't get very good results. It doesn't take direct flame very well, or the constant fluctuations in temperature that torchwork involves. You could try treating it like dichroic, laying it coated-side down so that the base glass provides a protective coating.
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How would that work if you can't mix glass?
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Norma
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2017-05-23, 9:22am
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Sorry, wasn't being clear there. Insofar as I'm aware (and I could be wrong), all modern iridescent glass gets its shimmer from a coating. Fusible iridescent coatings are stronger and designed to keep their shiny after a few heats in the kiln. Iridized flat glass, like the type generally used in stained glass or mosaic, tend to be more fragile and the luster burns off in the kiln. Cheap stuff like certain aquarium gems and modern souvenir glass has a coating that barely holds up under sunlight.
Coatings on flat glass or most glassware are applied to only one side of the glass, and if that piece is clear or is a pale transparent, it may be possible to preserve the shiny by working it coated side down, like you would do with dichroic glass. I've tried that with Bullseye iridescent glass, but with poor results. I may have been doing it wrong, and more skilled glassworkers might do it better. At least with fusible glasses you can mix colors. Everything else gets to be monochrome.
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2018-01-08, 9:43am
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Hi, my name is Dean. My wife came home with these beauties, (hopefully photos work/upload), and a google search led me here. I'm in search of any info about these. They are all about 11" x 8" including frames. They all have the hand written name Robin Passovoy on the backside of the frames. The one on the very top left (mosaic?) is in a regular picture frame with the fold out leg and has 7-01? on it. The next 3 down from that one have 8-05/8-05/and 8-06 (plywood backing). Top center are dated 8-06 and 8-06 with plywood backing. The 2 lower ones in the center have glass backs/round hanging hooks, and are dated 8-04 and 8-03. The one with 8/03 also has the word Kawarimono written on the back side of the frame. I think the one on the right, in the black frame, is special. It has the following info on the plywood backside - Size 5 Robin Passovoy 6-11 MPKS Best in Size. My wife said there was another one in a black frame with "best in size" on it, but she didn't buy it because it was very wide.
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2018-01-08, 10:59am
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You might be better served by making a new thread and posting in an appropriate area, not as many people will see this as they would otherwise.
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2018-01-08, 1:45pm
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Nope, those are indeed my work. I do stained-glass mosaic when I'm not lampworking. Those are a selection of Best In Variety awards that I've done for the Midwest Pond and Koi Society's judged koi shows, and I'm rather curious as to where your wife found them. Generally, the winners prefer to keep them, or sometimes recycle them to award in other shows. The top left one (gold and black) is from the original set.
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2018-01-08, 2:34pm
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Thank you for the reply. I sent you a personal message regarding the place my wife picked these up. I didn't think of replying right here. Thank you, Dean
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2018-01-09, 7:44am
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Whaaaat? Those are gorgeous!
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2018-01-09, 12:36pm
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Thank you!
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2018-01-10, 7:01am
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hyperT
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COE
Bottle glass ordinarily has a COE between 85 to 87. Although the COE can be as little as 83 or as great as 90. Probably not a good idea to mix colors or manufactures, as you can see here they vary alot.
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