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| Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips |
2007-06-09, 2:03pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 07, 2006
Location: Tehachapi, CA
Posts: 2,032
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Which are the reactive colors in COE104?
I know about ivory and opal yellow. But which other colors are reactive? And any advice on what to put with what would be welcomed too!
Thanks!
Cheryl
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2007-06-09, 3:11pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 12, 2005
Location: Central MN
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rubino
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2007-06-09, 3:23pm
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More ideas than talent
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Join Date: Sep 17, 2005
Location: Melbourne, Oz
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Turquoise, and light bluees will react with ivories, yellows and oranges. (and red I think).
Pinks will spread on periwinkle blue.
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Wendy
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2007-06-09, 3:31pm
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Know-it-all Megalomaniac
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Join Date: Oct 22, 2005
Location: Californication
Posts: 6,282
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Copper green
Evil purple
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2007-06-09, 11:19pm
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Hopeless glass addict!
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Join Date: Jan 26, 2006
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 317
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CIM (Messy) 402 - Celedon reacts with Ivory to get the dark outline, too. It's really pretty with Ivory. Also...Moretti and Vetrofond transparent Teal and Aqua turn beautiful shades of dark and light mossy green on Ivory. If you squiggle or dot white over the Ivory, then add the transparent reactive colors, you can see the pattern under the transparent colors because they won't react with the white.
If you reduce Sky Blue or Turquoise colors, the copper in them will come to the surface and they will turn red.
You can get dark lines surrounding colors by using a sulfur color: Dk. & Lt. Ivory, Red, Yellow, Coral, Orange, or Brown with a copper color: Copper Green, CIM Celedon, Petroleum Green, Lt. or Dk. Turquoise, Lt. or Dk. Sky Blue, or Mosaic Green. There are probably many more colors I haven't mentioned in each category. I think I've heard that Opal Yellow is supposedly a non-allied color and won't react with copper colors.
Try dotting EDP (Moretti 254) on pastel Violet 272 or Periwinkle and see what happens. Cool dark lines!
You can discover more reactions to try here:
http://www.gemfox.com/corinabeads/ch...challengeID=12
Also, enter Reactions or Reaction in the search feature here on LE. You will find many helpful threads this way.
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~Mendy
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2007-06-10, 10:19pm
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Redheaded Thread Killer
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Join Date: Sep 18, 2004
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Lots of good suggestions. I love using Intense black myself. I find I use it a lot because I love the way it reacts with some glasses with its web effect.
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Currently... torch is cold. Not sure when I'll be making glass again. Hothead and Lynx user.
Nothing on
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2007-06-11, 4:41am
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Frit frit and more frit!
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Join Date: Nov 09, 2005
Location: Wales, UK
Posts: 469
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Hiya
This isn't a `reaction' - but its a cool effect!
Amazing what you can do with simple black and white..... 
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Regards,
SAM x
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2007-06-11, 5:34am
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Location: Eastern West Virginia
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Anise White will give you some very cool effects. Try it with Red Copper green.
Carol
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Carol O. (Cricket with 5 lpm oxycon)
"The miracle isn't that I finished. The miracle is that I had the courage to start" John Bingham
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2007-06-11, 12:47pm
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Thanks everyone! Carol, I have some anice white but I hate to work with it because it is unbelievably shocky. Easily the shockiest glass I've ever worked with. But I'll try it with the copper green. Thanks!
Cheryl
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2007-06-11, 1:33pm
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The BEST reactive colors in 104 are Double Helix and R4 Colors... of course. LOL.
Ron Jr.
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2007-06-12, 9:14pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beadysam
Hiya
This isn't a `reaction' - but its a cool effect!
Amazing what you can do with simple black and white..... |
I never would have guessed that was black and white! How did you do that?
I spent a week working with only black and white and never had that "reaction".
Thanks!
Angela
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2007-06-13, 1:41am
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Frit frit and more frit!
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Join Date: Nov 09, 2005
Location: Wales, UK
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Hiya
Just a blob of white, stringer stripes of black, heated VERY hot and gravity swirled! Ends up a fab purple!
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SAM x
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2007-06-13, 2:02am
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Senior Member
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Well that makes sense to use stringer and swirling it! It's so interesting to see what other people have figured out. It really IS a fab purple. I've been looking for a new option in the Efferte's color pallet!
And I have to try doing more swirls in my beads. Thank you for the information, 
Angela
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2007-06-13, 2:05am
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R4GlassStudio
The BEST reactive colors in 104 are Double Helix and R4 Colors... of course. LOL.
Ron Jr.
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But of course. Heh-Heh. Got any free samples to try out?
I'm still blown away by all the new options in the last year or 2! Is there another name for R4 glass? I'm still trying to learn them all since I had to take a break from it.
Thanks,
Angela
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2007-06-20, 12:10am
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Hopeless glass addict!
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Join Date: Jan 26, 2006
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherylsart
Thanks everyone! Carol, I have some anice white but I hate to work with it because it is unbelievably shocky. Easily the shockiest glass I've ever worked with. But I'll try it with the copper green. Thanks!
Cheryl
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First of all, Cheryl...I gotta say that I love your adorable kitty avatar! Kitties and kids are my weakness!
My hubby got me a curling wand heater at a beauty supply store for about $50. No more shocky rods...ever! Before that I used to stick the end of my shocky rods just inside the kiln bead door for a few minutes and that helped immensely. Before I got the kiln, I stuck them down the edge of my crock pot filled with vermiculite. I had to wipe them off before using them when they came out of the crock pot...but things went much better. With my "rod warmer" curling iron heater I have absolutely no shocky rod problems. I actually love anise white now...and Lauscha tri-shade rods! I'll never be without it ever again. Its a great investment because it saves a lot of money and time and burned skin! 
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~Mendy
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Happiness is roasting glass with your best friend!
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2007-06-20, 6:36am
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The Andrea Half
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Join Date: Aug 18, 2006
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,411
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I'll often put my really shocky rods on top of my kiln for a while. Just be careful picking them up (or leave some hanging over the edge). It doesn't stop thermal shock, and of course I forget to do it sometimes, but it can really help. (I have an AIM kiln with the flat firebrick top.)
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2007-06-27, 8:35am
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You talkin to me?
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Join Date: Jul 13, 2005
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 558
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I stick my anice white rod in the bead door of the kiln for a few minutes before I use it, and that makes it workable, right out of the kiln. No shocks, just easily meltable. Just be very careful taking it out of the kiln (make sure you leave several inches of the rod sticking out to stay cool, so you can handle it) 
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Melissa
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I work on a Minor burner, with an oxy-con and household natural gas
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