Fixing broken beads

Dasi · #1 2005-12-19, 5:58pm

I am not sure which forum I read about someone asking about fixing beads.

I did a show last weekend. As I was packing up someone offered to help me. They picked up a stand with a bunch of beads and when they were outside on the concrete, dropped 100 beads......I wanted to, well you know.......
We picked them all up and I took them home and examined them. Only one of the beads had cracked. About 20 of them had ding marks on them. I checked each one with a magnifying glass. Many actually did not bounce across the pavement.
Now what do you do????
I remembered learning from Pati Walton about refiring beads and putting them back on the mandrel. I also remember Sharon Peters mentioning it could be done. I also put beads back in the kiln in a KAte Fowle Melaney class. So now it was my turn to try.
Here is a picture of 2 beads with dings. I had managed to get them back on a mandrel covered with bead release. I gobbed extra on both ends to make sure the beads could not actually fall off if they slid up and down the mandrel.

I took the kiln up to 1050 over 1 1/2 hours and then turned on the torch. I reached in the kiln and took out the the bead. I had a wet paper towel to cool off the mandrel. Then I healed the bead in the flame. I needed to remove a tiny bit of scum. I grabbed a boro stringer and used that to dab off just the tiny scum and then I heated the bead well and returned it to the kiln. It took all of 5 minutes. Then I did about 9 more. I took the kiln down to 950 and started making beads for the rest of the day. I annealed as usual. This whole process to fix 10 beads took less then half an hour. It took longer to get the beads back on the mandrels. I even healed up the cracked bead. I already made it into a necklace for my private collection. It will never be sold, but it will be fun to watch for the next few years.......

POST #14 tells how to prepare the mandrel!

I think the conclusion of the last thread was it was not worth putting beads back in the kiln to fix them. I hope to never have to do this again but, I do think it was worth it. As for these beads being for sale, not in the near future. I plan to keep and eye on them for durability.

Here is a picture of the fixed beads. The one bead is now right side up. I did loose the definition of the base and top. The pucker remained nicely. I could not refine the shape since the bead was not exactly centered on the mandrel but I think it still looks fine. Hope this helps someone in the future!!!!!!

POST #14 tells how to prepare the mandrel!

alissa · #2 2005-12-19, 7:38pm

Wow, that's a real shame...

I had someone knock a bowl of 7-9 vessels + 40 beads off my fridge (chest-height) and 5 of the vessels broke while a lot of the beads dinged - I definitely need to try this to fix the dinged beads! I'm glad to know it worked for you!

Thanks for posting!

Islandgirl · #3 2005-12-20, 1:33pm

I used to use wet paper towels to cool the mandrel now I have a barbecue sauce (or similar) bottle filled (right to the top!) with water I grab the mandrel right below the bead with parallell mashers and put the mandrel up to my mashers in the water and then straight into the flame, The mandrel is much easier to handle like this.... I actually stick beads back in the kiln regularly, even done it with hollows, they collapsed but blew back out.... Small lentils are the only thing that I can't seem to get to work, they crack and pull apart, just not enough glass!

I know just how hard it is to say it doesn't matter with clenched teeth!

Lynne

www.fireballbeeds.com

Marcy · #4 2005-12-20, 4:32pm

Heather,
Way to go. I bet being so successful in mending them was a great feeling. So sorry you had to do it, but glad it worked out so well in your favor.
take care,
Marcy

Dasi · #5 2005-12-20, 6:22pm

I have heard of the mandrel being stuck in water but I am to spastic to handle using a tool to grab the mandrel and dipping in water. I think it is easier to leave about 3-4 inches of the mandrel sticking out of the kiln. I just grab the mandrel with my left hand at the end and slide the wet paper towel up the mandrel with the right hand. I don't even have to use a tool to pick up the mandrel. Then I just move up on the mandrel in my left and I am already spinning as the bead is introduced to the top of the flame of the torch. It only took a few seconds to to it.

Raven · #6 2006-12-17, 9:25pm

Hi Heather,
I would just like to say I took a bead out of my kiln the other morning and I was not pleased the way it turned out and I remembered reading of your thread. I put it back in the kiln still on the mandrel and just turned it on. I let it stay in there while I got my self ready for the day and before I left for town I went to the studio and took a wet paper towel and removed it an got it right in the flame did some minor changes and put it back in the kiln. The next morning it was removed with the face lift per say and it was wonderful. Right now it even has a bid on it on Just Beads. So I thank you so much for your info on fixing beads

It worked great for me!
Happy Holidays,
Raven

Heather/Ericaceae · #7 2006-12-18, 2:10pm

Congratulations on a wonderful recovery! That was a very high $ value of gorgeous beads, so I'm glad you were able to restore them to perfection! Way to keep your cool in a moment of crisis, and thank you for sharing the process!

-(another) Heather

Feldt's Glass · #8 2006-12-18, 3:59pm

Thanks for the info. Glad it worked out for you but hope you never have to do it again.

Dasi · #9 2006-12-18, 6:25pm

Wow, it has been a year since I wrote this....... thanks....... glad it is working for people.

Otter's Flame · #10 2006-12-27, 3:46am

Great info on fixing beads....just one warning on using a wet paper towel or wet cloth to grab the mandrel. Be VERY careful for steam burns. Water can turn to steam at about 212 degrees.....(notice I said ABOUT)......the mandrel is a lot hotter than 212 degrees. I speak from experience on this, it is a seemingly good idea but it can cause steam burns.

Dasi · #11 2006-12-27, 12:10pm

wet means drippy......wet.....LOL....you are right.... steam can burn......but it is much easier then it sounds......

Maybe stick a mandrel in the kiln that does not have a bead on it yet just to practice and see the heat level you are working with first...?

and test the paper towel.

I use the same paper towel over and over and I usually only have to rewet when I have done about 5. I have been doing all sorts of stuff to beads and then taking them back into the flame days later with additional designs.....

jrandrup · #12 2007-01-02, 3:13pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dasi

...I remembered learning from Pati Walton about refiring beads and putting them back on the mandrel.

How do you get them back on the mandrel? Put them on while the bead release is still wet? Or do you use a smaller mandrel and let the bead release dry first?
Thanks.

Sharon Abood · #13 2007-01-02, 4:01pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrandrup

How do you get them back on the mandrel? Put them on while the bead release is still wet? Or do you use a smaller mandrel and let the bead release dry first?
Thanks.

Hi Heather!
I am wondering the same thing!

Dasi · #14 2007-01-02, 4:56pm

Hi Sharon!!! We did Brad together....... Remember..... Boy that sounds very strange.......

Sorry, I left that unclear about putting the bead back on the mandrel.

When I put the beads back on the mandrel, I slipped the bead onto a dry mandrel already coated with bead release. The mandrel was the same size as I originally used for the bead. I did not move down in size. I had let the bead release dry for over 24 hours before I slipped the bead onto the mandrel. It went on easy and seemed loose. You might need to thin it just a little if you think it might help. I usually use thick bead release....

(I use a mix of fosterfire and fusion...)

Then I took a paint brush and dipped it in my bead release and painted a band around the mandrel right over the dry bead release. This created a raised collar so to speak. I let it dry for an hour. Then I went back and let the bead drop down and rest on the ring or collar I painted. Then I did the same to the other end as close but not touching the pucker on the other end.

If you look close at the bottom of the picture you can see the raised area of bead release. At the top, the bead release is also raised but I create deep puckers so it is not possible to see.

Sharon Abood · #15 2007-01-02, 5:06pm

Thanks Heather! Yes, I remember that we "did Brad" together. LOL!!! How are you doing? That was a great class and I really enjoyed meeting everyone. The Gathering was really a blast.