Devardi Glass? - Page 2

EchoTantuli · #31 2013-02-21, 10:37am

another thing you can do, is after you have heated the rod up start pulling thick stringers to work with later, that way you don't have to baby the bigger rod everytime you want to use it. The smaller the diameter, the less shocky they tend to be in general.

glassactcc · #32 2013-02-21, 11:01am

Me too. CRloo, I am there picking out my own glass. I don't like the new place though. It's FREEZING in there which may curb my glass buying. That could be a good thing

Quote:

Originally Posted by jujubeads1973

I am exactly like you! i too started at Christmas and also bought some Devardi. It is very thick almost like tree branches. Never get it too hot though. I live in the SF Bay area and frequent CR Loo when I want to go and actually see the glass before I buy. Overall, I like the softness and workability!

fluffypenguin · #33 2013-02-25, 9:13am

Oh, my...
I worked with a little bit of it in my sparse spare time over the weekend.
I repeat: Oh, my...

The George Foreman Grille seems to be a great thing, and works really well.

I attempted some stringers, but ended up with string rather than stringers :-/
I didn't try any actual beads with any of it yet, just played with melting a few colors.
That whole molten-glass-suddenly-flies-at-your-face shocky thing is going to take some getting used to.
I've got several pounds of it, though, so I'm just gonna have to grit my teeth and get used to it!

Dreamsincolor · #34 2013-02-27, 9:00pm

I learned to drive an 18 wheeler AFTER my 50th birthday. Piece of cake. I will admit I had my instructor white knuckled a couple of times going through construction traffic 8 am on Malfunction Junction in Tampa. Keeping the log was the PITA part of it. For some reason starting out at the torch was scarier. Go figure. Devardi will be a startling experience since some of the colors are frit on a stick, but in a way for some people it can be easier to get used to since everything is new to you as a beginner.

Andrea

rosemarie23 · #35 2013-02-28, 9:49am

Fluffy, if you are getting string instead of stringers, you are pulling too soon (and therefore too hot) and too fast.

After you have a gather warmed, let it sit out of the flame so that the outside cools a bit. Some people call this "forming a skin". I don't see it, but whatever...

After this, pull very slowly; if it starts to get too thin, just stop. Wait! Let it cool a bit more, then continue. As it cools more, then you can start pulling faster.

One of the best pieces of advice that I have had for lampworking is this:
When something isn't going the way that you want, STOP! Get the glass out of the flame and ponder what to do next. Of course this does not apply when you have dropped a molten gather onto your lap, things burning (hair, clothing) that should not, etc. lol!

fluffypenguin · #36 2013-03-04, 7:10am

I'm still amazed by the helpfulness and comraderie of this page!

Otter · #37 2013-03-04, 7:56am

Quote:

Originally Posted by fluffypenguin

Oh, my...
I worked with a little bit of it in my sparse spare time over the weekend.
I repeat: Oh, my...

The George Foreman Grille seems to be a great thing, and works really well.

I attempted some stringers, but ended up with string rather than stringers :-/
I didn't try any actual beads with any of it yet, just played with melting a few colors.
That whole molten-glass-suddenly-flies-at-your-face shocky thing is going to take some getting used to.
I've got several pounds of it, though, so I'm just gonna have to grit my teeth and get used to it!

Fluffypenguin.

What may help from the glass shocking in your face when you enter the rod in the flame put it in the flame from the top of your flame straight down toward your table the shock should go on your table not in your face. If you put the rod in from the side of your flame it will pop in your face. I hope this makes sense.

Have fun.

John

Molly Bird · #38 2013-03-04, 12:36pm

When I started lampworking November 2011, I bought Devardi because it was cheap. At that time, I hadn't even heard of lampworketc.com, so I had no prior info on it. My first lesson was using Boro, so I thought nothing of it being shocky & on a hot head it wasn't that bad. If you know how to use it (go slow & heat slow) it's not bad at all. There is a blue Devardi that I just won't mess with because it is so shocky & aggitates me. I have never figured out how to reduce Devardi Copper either, so if anyone out there knows what the trick is, please let me know. The only 2 things I can't reduce is Devardi Copper & my rear end

Chikadee · #39 2013-03-05, 3:24pm

I bought Devardi when I started also. I thought it would be good to practice with since it was cheap. After using it I decided if I could make it work I could do anything. I have not used up that first batch yet and am determined to use it up before I buy something else. Most of the time I want to turn it all into frit and move on.

Rose · #40 2013-03-05, 4:43pm

I threw mine in the trash. Hated to do it but I just had to work way too slow and that frustrated me. I think the colors are really gorgeous, unlike anything else. It's very frustrating glass and if you are new to making beads using it I bow down to you.

Lorraine Chandler · #41 2013-03-05, 6:52pm

There is almost nothing better than actually seeing someone do what your asking about. This is a great video for DeVardi beginners.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Dxg5PgufBk

Lorraine Chandler · #42 2013-03-05, 6:55pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rose

I threw mine in the trash. Hated to do it but I just had to work way too slow and that frustrated me. I think the colors are really gorgeous, unlike anything else. It's very frustrating glass and if you are new to making beads using it I bow down to you.

I am with Rose on this glass and gave all mine away. Just too frustrating for me. I hope the OP has better patience and luck with it.

glasscove · #43 2013-03-05, 8:33pm

Warm up the rods first. For the price I am willing to take my time with this glass. That is when real talent with having the ability to work with ANY type of glass comes in.

Lorraine Chandler · #44 2013-03-05, 9:58pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by glasscove

Warm up the rods first. For the price I am willing to take my time with this glass. That is when real talent with having the ability to work with ANY type of glass comes in.

Oh I think most everyone that chooses not to work with Devardi all have REAL TALENT AND ABILILTY and can work with any type of glass. . I have been lampworking for years and have worked with most every glass out there excited to try all of the new ones as they became available over the years. But when Devardi came out having grown up on Effetre, Lauscha, Vetrofond, Bullseye, Furnace glass etc. I knew it was not for me.

It is a good entry level glass especially for beginners that like to work slowly and are still working on techniques or for people that are on tight budgets.

I personally choose NOT to expend my precious glass time with a glass product that requires so much of my time just to get it on the rod, when I can be making three times the beads with other glass brands that are quick and easy to work with.

I don't think that means I don't have real talent and ability or that it means I can't work with any type of glass. It really basically means I found it to be seriously lacking for one who is advanced in lampworking skills.

KJohn · #45 2013-03-06, 1:14am

I had trouble with Devardi too, but I like it for frit. I don't find it as saturated as the furnace glass but not bad. I really want to stay with 104 coe and it is an inexpensive way to stock the colors that you would use. As frit, it works fine.

istandalone24/7 · #46 2013-03-06, 2:26am

it's cost is a moot point. if you buy odds....or even just sale glass (effetre, lausha etc).
most 104 color isn't even that expensive.

tammydownunder · #47 2013-03-06, 5:17pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by istandalone24/7

it's cost is a moot point. if you buy odds....or even just sale glass (effetre, lausha etc).
most 104 color isn't even that expensive.

My point exactly. If you're just a bit patient, you can find excellent great deals on great glass. No need to buy a rod warmer to deal with shocky glass that may or may not have compatibility issues.

shawnette · #48 2013-03-06, 5:47pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by tammydownunder

My point exactly. If you're just a bit patient, you can find excellent great deals on great glass. No need to buy a rod warmer to deal with shocky glass that may or may not have compatibility issues.

Most of the artists that have rod warmers didn't buy them because of Devardi. I bought mine because of issues with Effetre (long before Devardi was around) and I'm pretty sure Lucio Bubacco doesn't use Devardi, but he definitely uses a rod warmer. It's just good to have one because ALL glass manufacturers produce shocky glass at some point.

allicat · #49 2013-03-06, 8:45pm

My fav red is Devardi's Cranberry. Just a delish color and has always been well behaved for me. But don't talk to me about Devardi's Opaque lavender; it is, as someone on here coined the term, "frit on a stick". That being said, I have Effetre Ivory and Effetre Dark Ivory. The Dark Ivory is lovely and well behaved, the regular Ivory is ALSO "frit on a stick".

As Shawnette said, most glass manufacturers make shocky glass at one point or another. Thicker rods will also shock more easily. While I wouldn't compare the quality of Devardi with, say, Double Helix, it is still serviceable IMHO and one can certainly make lovely beads with it. Check out some of the things Fine Folly Glassworks has made; much of her stuff is made with Devardi.

Alli

tammydownunder · #50 2013-03-07, 12:27am

Quote:

Originally Posted by shawnette

Most of the artists that have rod warmers didn't buy them because of Devardi. I bought mine because of issues with Effetre (long before Devardi was around) and I'm pretty sure Lucio Bubacco doesn't use Devardi, but he definitely uses a rod warmer. It's just good to have one because ALL glass manufacturers produce shocky glass at some point.

Yes, but the newbies that are buying Devardi are buying it because of the cost. Then, when you have to add in the cost of rod warmer so you can play with your new shocky glass, it doesn't make sense. Yes all the glass manufactures produce shocky glass at some point, but if your aim is to "test the waters" whether you're going to enjoy lampworking, Devardi glass is a false economy.

istandalone24/7 · #51 2013-03-07, 3:27am

no, frit on a stick is devardi anice white!
even warmed up in the kiln, it's shock city.

Dr Bill · #52 2013-03-07, 8:32am

bye

Carolyn M · #53 2013-03-09, 8:28pm

If you lose half the rod on your work bench, have to buy a rod warmer to use it, and have to spend twice as long working it slowly, it is not an economical glass IMO. If it shocks on a Fireworks torch, imagine what it does when introduced into my Cricket, or Mega Minor flame??

You get what you pay for

Ravenesque · #54 2013-03-10, 11:08pm

^I agree. I wouldn't make anything if I had to diddle around just to get a rod to behave.

Plus the cost of running a rod warmer on top of everything else can't be that cheap anyways.
Glass flying at you is never fun, it burns!?

I just looked at one color, Ocean Blue, it's $2.99 1/4 lb
looks like Aqua blue which is not shocky or curved all crazy.
CIM Pulsar is $2.37 1/4 lb (30% off $3.38 off which CIM mostly is at Frantz anyhoo)
Effetre Aqua is $2.10 1/4 lb, on sale from normally $3.00

It's not that much cheaper at all

DesertDreamer · #55 2013-03-11, 9:28am

I refused to use Effetre Pea Green for several years after my very first try with it (mere weeks after I started making beads) became 'frit on a stick' and completely freaked me out! That was 16 years ago. Since then, I've experienced the same problems with almost EVERY brand/COE of glass at one time or another.

Devardi IS more-than-normal fiddly. I'd probably dump it, myself, except that I'm in love with several colors, especially the pinks, purples, and oranges. I'm lucky in that I have a double-wide kiln, so I just preheat rods on one side before I start working. It means I have to plan ahead for what I'm going to do (a rarity for me), but it pays off. I've experimented with batch annealing some of the worse offenders (esp opaques) and that seems to help somewhat, but it's not a guarantee of better behavior.

Max Hardcastle · #56 2013-06-05, 7:57am

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eileen

https://www.google.com/#hl=en&tbo=d&...w=1184&bih=586

it isn't hard, just takes practice.

turn the rod in the flame to melt the glass to a nice molten gather
pull it out of the flame, still turning, and wait a few seconds for the glass to cool a tad so the color changes a little & it looks like it is beginning to harden on the surface.
grab with tweezers or pliers and slowly pull your hands apart.
you can go faster as it cools
faster pull makes thinner stringer, so don't go too fast or you'll end up with hair fine stuff

keep some tension on it until it cools so it will harden straight.
Remember it will still be HOT! for a bit!

It takes a little bit of practice to know when to pull, but if you can't get it to be thick enough, you're pulling too soon.
If you can't get it thin enough, you're waiting too long.

I wish someone told me this when I started lampworking. I even started in a class where they taught stringer making... anyhow you should read this very carefully, copy it down on another paper (don't print it, force yourself to write it) and take it with you to your torch. This is probably the best advice for stringer making you'll find anywhere! Having stringers that are too thin takes all the fun out of it - take your time and get a good stringer before you try to use it or it'll melt all over your bead in a wiggly blobby pile...