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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips |
2006-12-03, 7:32pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 30, 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC (Over Yonder)
Posts: 665
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Am I crazy?? COE/Color range question
Hi all-
I am working with Effetre, Lauscha and Vetrofond. I am interested in Bullseye and other lower COE glasses because it seems like the color ranges are much better. Is this actually the case?
Do the lower COEs have different quirks than the murano glasses? I know I can't combine them, but I am just starting to really understand the glass I have been using. Is it crazy to start looking at Bullseye?
Thanks
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2006-12-03, 7:35pm
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Crazy Snake Lady
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Join Date: Jul 31, 2006
Posts: 5,583
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I've also noticed that the lower coe colors seem brighter. If you want the really brilliant colors, try looking at Boro!
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Mrs. C
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2006-12-04, 6:12am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 21, 2006
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 2,807
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I'm starting with Bullseye. It's generally not as shocky as the 104 Italian that I used in class. The colors are pretty easy to work with. The colors are VERY consistent from batch to batch, and odd lots are not crazy expensive.
Give it a try!
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2006-12-04, 6:22am
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phrit phreak
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Join Date: Nov 18, 2005
Location: in the Loess Hills of Iowa
Posts: 2,045
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LyndaJ
I'm starting with Bullseye. It's generally not as shocky as the 104 Italian that I used in class. The colors are pretty easy to work with. The colors are VERY consistent from batch to batch, and odd lots are not crazy expensive.
Give it a try!
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I have not made the switch. I started w/ 104 I love the bullseye color pallate tho..too much 104 to use up I guess
the odd lot craze always irks me... $$$ for one of their mistakes IMO ....
xoxo
lori
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2006-12-04, 7:29am
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Too Hot for my Torch
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Join Date: Jun 28, 2006
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 130
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Um just switched to a benchburner. I started my boro colection by grabbing a couple of auctions on Northstar ends. and then one for clear. What I need to figure out is the kiln strike. Apparently some colors can or should be struck in the kiln. Also is it me or is it very stiff. I mean even in molten state. Sorry years with effetre and Lauscha and I'm just not trasitioning well.
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2006-12-04, 8:10am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 27, 2005
Location: Wellington, CO
Posts: 1,091
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fireflykat51
Um just switched to a benchburner. I started my boro colection by grabbing a couple of auctions on Northstar ends. and then one for clear. What I need to figure out is the kiln strike. Apparently some colors can or should be struck in the kiln. Also is it me or is it very stiff. I mean even in molten state. Sorry years with effetre and Lauscha and I'm just not trasitioning well.
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I just started working with boro as well. It is much stiffer - someone described it to me as "making a bead in slow motion" - lol. I'm still working out the striking and colors which are alot different than soft glass. If you look up at the top of the tips and techniques page there is a boro room and you can search through the threads for lots of good information.
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2006-12-04, 10:47am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 10, 2005
Location: Huntington Beach CA
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I started with Bullseye. I have purchased a lot of moretti, but can't seem to move away from the Bullseye.
The Bullseye is a bit stiffer than the 104 coes and I like the control I have. Really it is probably more about what you are use to.
I keep thinking I want to pull out the moretti, because it seems to have more truly opaque colors. Bullseye only has a few.
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Michelle
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2006-12-04, 11:22am
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Missing presumed fed
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Join Date: Nov 15, 2005
Location: Wherever
Posts: 3,158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bousky
I keep thinking I want to pull out the moretti, because it seems to have more truly opaque colors. Bullseye only has a few.
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That's one of the things that I find hard to adjust to about Bullseye. I expect the glass to be opaque and it's not -- it's translucent.
I find Bullseye to be very shocky. It cracks easily if you don't keep it warm, and it has sort of a memory - once a bead has cracked in a spot, it seems to want to crack in that spot again even after you've melted the crack out (I realize this makes no sense, but that's the way it seems).
The Bullseye palette is stronger in some shades (pinks and purples) than Effetre/Morette, but doesn't have as many total colors available.
I'm a longtime Effetre (104, anyway) user, so take this for what it's worth. I pick up Bullseye once in a blue moon and get frustrated because it doesn't look or act like the 104 glass. You can't really do that with Bullseye. You have to appreciate it for its own look and its own properties, and I haven't taken the time to do that yet.
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2006-12-04, 11:36am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 10, 2005
Location: Huntington Beach CA
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Quote:
I find Bullseye to be very shocky. It cracks easily if you don't keep it warm, and it has sort of a memory - once a bead has cracked in a spot, it seems to want to crack in that spot again even after you've melted the crack out (I realize this makes no sense, but that's the way it seems).
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It is very much about what you are use to. It is true that you need to keep bullseye hot while working it. When I watch demos with people using other glass, I always expect it to crack, with how long they keep it out of the flame.
As for bullseye's rod shockiness, I have very little rod popping since I do not lay my rods down. I made a wood rod holder which keeps the rods upright. I think it allows it to cool more evenly thus avoiding dramatic temp changes causing more stress in the glass.
I tried to post a picture, but it turns out I don't have one.
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Michelle
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2006-12-06, 7:49am
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 02, 2006
Posts: 82
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Hi Kitty,
try ASK, these colours are from Germany and the COE are 104. They fit with murano, vetrofond, lauscha,.. but NOT with boro! And don`t use frit COE 96 with the COE 104, the pieces will break because of the difference between the COEs.
See you
glass-diary
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