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Studio -- Show us your studio setup

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  #1  
Old 2018-09-01, 5:34pm
Destonomos Destonomos is offline
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Thumbs up Building my first setup

Hi Everyone,

I'm new to fairly new to lampworking. I've taken a few classes (8 classes @ 3hrs each) and I've rented from the studio near me around 10 hours total. I've since wanted to take it further than the hours allotted in classes because I work till 4 everyday and the studio mostly only lets walk-in's come till 5pm.

I've decided to renovate the garage in my house that is too small for my car.

Below are a few pics to get a view of the overall space.




I plan to build a small 6ft x 2ft bench in the back out of 2x4's. Below is a pic of the area.



This labor day weekend I am going to take advantage of the time and build the bench portion and exhaust hood. I plan on using a metal watch basin (4ftx2ftx1ft) for the hood. I got this today at a local hardware store for 100 even.



To exhaust the fumes outside I am going to vent in the window to the left of the work area in the photos with the blower motor for this this dust filter from harbor freight.

https://www.harborfreight.com/70-gal...tor-61790.html

I'm going to run it with the included ducting for the time being and see if it works or not. If it does I will improve the design with flat static metal ducting to the window next to the work area. I am going to seal the entire window over with the board in the photo and cut a hole for exhaust and a separate hole for the propane hose from outside.

I am simply for the time being going to seal the other two windows with plastic (incoming winter weather).

I have a 2ft x 2ft industrial kitchen counter top with 2x4 backing as well. I am going to get some legs for that from ikea or lowes and just screw them into the bottom. That will give me a separate work area that I think will be helpful. I don't have a picture of that but will upload it later on (its at another house of mine).

Now lets talk torches.

The studio I first learned at had Nortel Minor's and taught soft glass. I have purchased a GTT Cheetah and have used it during the renting hours I specified above. I thought it was awesome when I worked with it.



I purchased a Jen Ken Kiln off Craigslist. I think I got a steal. It retails new for 980ish and I paid 350. I purchased it mainly for batch work to be able to make a lot pipes at once in batch.

Here it is new:
http://jenkenkilns.com/b3k-156.aspx

Here is what I bought:


Now for the tools I have purchased so far (totally not done yet)

Tools:


This includes:

Claw grabber tool
3/4" graphite bowl push
Octagonal graphite reamer
rubber hose blow kit with corks and valve
double V brass necking tool
stainless steel letter opener
tungsten pick
tungsten scribbler
brass shaping tool
6" sheers
Big tweezers
small tweezers
bead clipper tweezers
more tweezers good lord tweezers
glass cutting tool
glass snipping tool
fiber blanket for kiln
kevlar arm guards
kevlar finglerless gloves
2"x4" graphite pad
small frit tray
single glass Rod holder
flint


I may have jumped the gun on a few of the items but I also bought my first round of glass.



I'm creating this building thread to keep up with total cost as well as keep up with the knowledge because it might be useful to someone else.

Costs so far.

Tools - $176.59
Glass - $85.65
GTT Cheeta Torch - $664 (includes quick connect inline)
Jen Ken Kiln 15/6 - $350
Metal Basin Hood - $100

Total spent - 1376.24

The two classes I took were 350 each

Total spent learning and building $2076.24

I am going to make a post later on tonight going over acquiring the remaining items I need to make the studio along with what items I have left to buy and the plans I have to acquire.

Thanks for reading!

Last edited by Destonomos; 2018-09-01 at 6:23pm.
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  #2  
Old 2018-09-01, 7:12pm
Destonomos Destonomos is offline
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Ok,

So for the things that I left to buy.

Oxygen Tank - I am going to work local to buy the oxygen tank from a local supplier

Propane Tank - I am getting gifted 2x 40lb propane tanks from my father that sold an older RV and kept them

Oxy/Propane regulators
Oxy/Propane flashback arrestors

What does everyone think of this kit? No idea, but heard decent reviews online. I love the price

https://www.devardiglass.com/Torches.htm

Harbor Freight blower motor

https://www.harborfreight.com/70-gal...tor-61790.html

Glass rod rest

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...SER46U0O&psc=1

Lampworking Plastic Clip on Flip up Glasses

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...K24PPRNG&psc=1

And lastly a CFM meter to make sure my hood setup is going to work.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...J3T0SA8I&psc=1

Hoses I was thinking from Devardi as well.


Total for remaining items: $445.36 - does not include oxygen tank

I am not sure what the local supplier is going to charge.

If you have any input after reading this or thinking I should swap stuff around please speak up. This is a work in progress and as I progress I am documenting everything here. I would love to hear what others think.

Thanks for reading.

Last edited by Destonomos; 2018-09-01 at 7:18pm.
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  #3  
Old 2018-09-01, 10:14pm
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I spent the last 10 years of my 17 years in the Navy as the department safety guy so the first thing I looked for in your lists was an extinguisher.

The next was a smoke alarm.

Lighting would be another point to focus on.
Boro glasses are wicked dark from what I have been told and I suggest both incandescent and fluorescent.
A stick of fluorescent will give you a straight line on your glass and you can use that line to look for bumps and shape distortions.
You are probably going want some serious gloves for opening and closing the kiln while it's hot but as I only work soft glass I don't know if you really need them.
You will have to check the boro threads.

You may want a torch mounted shield to keep the radiant Infrared and UV off of your face.

A heater under the bench should give you a little longer torching season and I have heard of folks using clear bubble wrap on their windows to give some more insulation from the cold while still letting some daylight in.

Also you might want to run a duct of make up air from one of the other windows ( 10 feet away from you exhaust outlet ) over to your bench so you can keep some of warmer air around you and not have it go up the ventilation while you torch.

Sounds to me like you have caught the addiction pretty deeply.

Send my condolences to you bank account!
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Last edited by Speedslug; 2018-09-01 at 10:16pm.
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  #4  
Old 2018-09-01, 10:21pm
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Oh and get some chain to fasten you oxygen tank to the wall or you could hunt up a welders cart to house it.

Remember those oxygen tanks are some seriously heavy SOBs and setting up an easy (and safe) way of manhandling them now is going to save a toe or your back sometime in the future.
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  #5  
Old 2018-09-02, 4:31pm
Destonomos Destonomos is offline
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So today was pretty neat. I got a random call from a craiglist ad I asked about over a week ago when I was going to buy a table. Below is the table I purchased (picking up tomorrow) for $80. The table is 2'x4'x1"



I also purchased hearing protection (for sawing the metal tub) and jigsaw blades. The blade kit I bought was $20 and included a thin metal, thick metal, and fiber board (for the wall backing I will install here soon).

It also included 3 wood blades.



I also spent the better half of the morning cleaning out the entire garage and getting everything ready.

Phase 1 cleaning



Phase 2 cleaning



Total spent today: $105 (includes blades / hearing protection / stainless steel table)
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  #6  
Old 2018-09-02, 4:58pm
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echeveria echeveria is offline
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Progress! I like the table, and I have been looking for those tubs, but for gardening. The only ones I find around me are super expensive.
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  #7  
Old 2018-09-02, 5:12pm
Destonomos Destonomos is offline
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Tomorrow I am going to pick up the table and also buy the blower motor from habor freight. Once I have all that I can go ahead and mount the board to the window and cut the holes in both the window and tub to work for the blower openings.

Once I have that done I am going to use inlet air from raising the garage door a foot until it gets cold for winter (will have to work something else out I guess once it gets cold).

I guess chain and hooks for the rafters are also a need to mount the hood.

On Monday I am also going for a long shot and I am going to call the local gas supplier to see about getting the oxygen tanks that are needed.

As far as propane is concerned. Is there anything special or can I get it filled from like a local menards? I guess I could get that from the gas supplier as well if necessary.
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  #8  
Old 2018-09-02, 6:18pm
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I will suggest that you get safety glasses as well for your cutting, hacking and such.

Just one metal fleck in you eyes will convince you of the cost benefit.

I used double ended turn buckles to make leveling the hood easier when hanging from chains.

You may find the noise is reduced if you place a knee or a foot on the surf you are cutting in the tank.

Do the windows open? If so you could just fit a board in the opening.

If you route some duct work out the top of the window and mount it up off the ground then you can route another section of duct work to the bottom of the same window and use that as an entrance for make up air.

You just need to make sure the exhaust and the intake ends are ten feet apart.

That is how I set up mine.

I picked up my vent fan from an old house furnace we replaced.

You should be able to pick one up from most HVAC installers for free.
They have to pay to have them hauled away when they install new units so they will often give them away and they move a metric ton of air in a hurry.
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Old 2018-09-02, 6:48pm
Destonomos Destonomos is offline
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I went down the hvac road before i settled on the blower from harbor freight. I called around 3 or 4 hvac places and asked about older blowers and it seems all the places just wanted to point me in the direction of buying new or trying to buy an entire system.

One company showed me this item:

https://www.energyconscious.com/good...SABEgLuT_D_BwE

That is around the average cost I found. Again, more expensive then the harbor freight option.

I also saw a ton of "dual inlet" blowers on ebay and craigslist for super cheap (like 70 dollars) but I am not sure how I could use those in this design to work.

Am I maybe approaching the hvac guys with the wrong lingo? I talked about using the blower as an exhaust and the guys sounded like they just scratched their heads over the phone and were confused.

The windows also, do not open. They honestly need to be replaced. The one I'm planning on exhausting in now has nails in it to keep it from opening. Tomorrow is going to be interesting

Last edited by Destonomos; 2018-09-02 at 6:52pm.
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  #10  
Old 2018-09-02, 9:24pm
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Lorraine Chandler Lorraine Chandler is offline
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Whew! I am exhausted just from reading about all you are doing and how fast you are doing it...LOL It is exciting isn't it?
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  #11  
Old 2018-09-03, 6:40am
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echeveria echeveria is offline
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I used to fill my propane at a gas supply house here, but they tried to cheat me - charge me for a full fill on a half full tank. I took in two empties and a half full. So -- I now go to my local Ace hardware. 2 blocks from the house, propane on sale once a month, already half price of the gas supply, fabulous customer service attitude, fills my half full tank for free, free popcorn. All upside. The only thing I don't do is the exchange thing. I bought my own tanks, and keep them protected from the weather.
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Old 2018-09-03, 7:08am
Destonomos Destonomos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by echeveria View Post
I used to fill my propane at a gas supply house here, but they tried to cheat me - charge me for a full fill on a half full tank. I took in two empties and a half full. So -- I now go to my local Ace hardware. 2 blocks from the house, propane on sale once a month, already half price of the gas supply, fabulous customer service attitude, fills my half full tank for free, free popcorn. All upside. The only thing I don't do is the exchange thing. I bought my own tanks, and keep them protected from the weather.
My dad has 2 propane tanks he is going to give me. However he said the last time he got them filled that the tops would need to be changed (not sure what that means) because they were an old style?

Dad is older and getting photos of the items right in front of him is like pulling teeth.

Both are 40lb tanks and if I fill them at a local shop that would be preferable as it would be more convenient.

As far as oxygen goes, is there a "easier" option than going to the local supplier? I have heard woes from other artists at the local shop that they do everything from overcharge if you are labeled "an artist" to flat out telling you they do commercial only. I guess it depends on who you talk to?

I can only imagine they get a lot of clueless people coming to buy something that them and 2 friends can't lift into the back of their Honda Fit lol.
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Old 2018-09-03, 12:26pm
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Your propane tanks have an expiration code on them, and they will not be filled if they are past that date. I can't remember how to read the coding or what it looks like, but you may be able to google it.
Oxygen is a big beef for a lot of people. I use concentrators, and only do small beads, so I have no experience. I will say that here in town everybody has better luck with the smaller local welding shops over the big gas supply houses like Airgas, Praxair and Holston Gas.
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Old 2018-09-03, 5:52pm
Destonomos Destonomos is offline
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Update time:

So today I picked up the stainless table and brought over my other stainless top I had previously.



The metal table is 49.5"x2'x1"

The metal side table is 2'6"x2'



I am still debating on what legs to put on the side table. The base under the stainless is wood 2x4's so I can attach anything really.

Any thoughts on the legs would be extremely helpful. I'm looking for low cost but not, melt when the glass gets to hot legs .

After work tomorrow I am going to pick up two sheets of fiber cement board from home depot. I believe if I stack 2 on top of each other I will be 6' high, which is perfect. I am going to leave a bit of the wall visible on the left and right of the cement board so I don't have to do any cutting (being lazy on that). Plus I didn't want to use a ton of screws in the brick over a 1 foot gap on just one side.

As a precaution tomorrow during lunch I am going to call the 4 gas places I have in my area and see if any deliver for business (I have a side company with tax-ID,). I am also going to call a few more hvac places and choose some mom and pop shops to see if I can get a blower motor as a last ditch effort. If I am unsuccessful then I may go ahead and get the harbor freight dust blower. That might be the best bet since I can get a replacement warranty on it and if it fails get it replaced.

Thoughts?

Thanks for reading

Last edited by Destonomos; 2018-09-03 at 5:58pm.
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Old 2018-09-03, 6:10pm
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Speedslug Speedslug is offline
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Aye, and some towns and cities have ordinances against large (K size I think they are called, about shoulder height) tanks in residential areas.

The city counsels come up with various reasons but mostly they are trying to avoid having 'back yard mechanics' setting up junk yards that spill out of the backyard and on to the streets.

They also don't want people setting up welding businesses in residential areas.

I purchased something called a 40 tank that is around knee high for about $125 back in 2007 or so but I mostly only use it for actual welding.

The thing about propane tanks is that the valves have been updated to have better safety features and almost no one will refill a tank an old style valve.

Also some refill places don't have proper filters and can wind up with gunk and junk in the bottom of their huge tanks and if you get a refill from them when their tank is low you can wind up with crap in the bottom of your tanks that can clog your torch and hoses.

Getting the torch cleaned by the maker can be time consuming and normally is not free so regardless of where you get your tanks refilled be sure to let them stand still for 12 hours to allow anything inside to settle.

All tanks, oxygen or fuel, have to meet department of transportation standards and must be inspected every dozen years or so so if you purchase or get given tanks you should get them inspected and recertified ($$).

Shop around if you are going to buy an oxygen tank. Prices can be all over the map.

Oh and remember that getting an oxygen tank refilled is not typically like getting gas in the car.
Often you wind up dropping it off one day and picking it up a week later.
Also, most places simply take your tank and give you another one that is full so there is a very real possibility that your brand new tank will have been "mistakenly" given in trade to some one else so I would not buy new and expect to get it back unless you find a place that will guarantee that you get your own tank back.


Tanked oxygen is going to be 99% pure oxygen while medical oxygen concentrators are only going to put out 96% at best and more like 93% most of the time.

Oxygen concentrators (oxycons) are fine for most soft glass and hobby work with boro but if you are going in to production mode then tanked might be worth the cost and effort.
If you are running to large boro (2.5 inches or better) you might want to look into liquid oxygen (lox) but lox needs to vent off pressure and you can lose a lot of the oxygen to venting if you are not torching 8 hour days 5 days a week or more.
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Last edited by Speedslug; 2018-09-03 at 6:46pm.
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Old 2018-09-03, 6:34pm
Destonomos Destonomos is offline
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What has me most perplexed is the transportation of the oxygen. If the tank is so large I obviously can't transport in my SUV. From what I am reading online it doesn't seem that transporting it horizontally is legal.
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Old 2018-09-04, 5:03pm
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Transporting oxygen horizontally is legal as far as I know.

However you want to make absolutely certain that the oxygen tank is not rolling around by wedging it or strapping (preferred) it in place in the vehicle, that it has the steel valve cover cap screwed on over the valve properly and that you stand it up and chain it to a structure as soon as you get it home.

You will want to stand it upright and give it a few minutes before opening the valve so if there is any debris in the tank it will have a chance to settle and won't get into the valve and either clog it or cause it to get stuck open.

Another thing about oxygen tanks is the the valve stem system is kind of leaky unless it is all the way open or all the way closed. Lots of folks have lost a weeks worth of oxygen in a few hours because it all leaked out around the valve stem.

All gases and pressurized liquids can be -transported- horizontally. It is while using them that you have to pay specific attention.

CO2 is tanked as a liquid and will pour liquid out if used on its' side so it should be used upright.

Acetylene is kind of weird in that the fuel itself is stored in liquid acetone like the fizz in a soda or beer. That combined liquid is then held in a sponge like stuff within the tank. It takes a specific amount of time for the acetylene to come out of solution and if it pressure is released too fast the liquid acetone will pour out and the acetylene will come out of solution (like CO2 foam in soda or beer in a keg) and will decompress explosively in the air around you and if there is an ignition source near by you will wind up with an expanding fire ball the size of mansion i.e. Kaboom.
So you will want to stand acetylene upright for at least 3 hours but I would wait 12 hours myself.

Did anyone mention that you have to use a fuel hose marked as "T" rated for use with propane?
If you use an acetylene hose the propane will chemically attack it from the inside and you will wind up with a gummy liquid blown inside your torch which you will have to send back to the maker to get cleaned.
Also the hose can begin disintegrating and leaking propane.

And yet another thing to remember is to replace your hoses (even if you don't use them) every ten years or so. They just get old like tires and can start leaking or bulging or cracking.
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Last edited by Speedslug; 2018-09-04 at 5:13pm.
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Old 2018-09-06, 4:07pm
Destonomos Destonomos is offline
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Update time:

The last few days have been a roller coaster as I had a flat tire among other things, so I did not get much done.

Today I bought 2 sheets of hardie board and screws to attach it to the wall. In addition to the screws I also went ahead and bought a tube of guerrilla glue construction adhesive to hold the board to the wall as I drill and anchor them in place (1 stacked on top of the other horizontally).



laying on the side:



and other materials:



Total Cost: $57.92

Running Total: $1539.16 (not including the 2 classes).


Floor to Ceiling is 7'10". The table stands 34" tall, and I plan on extending it up 5" with feet extensions. So 39" from the floor. The hood is 1' tall and the motor on top of that will add another foot to its overall size. That is a total of 5.25'.

I also want a 2' gap between the table and hood.

Adding all this up I think I have a few inches to spare in terms of space.

The boards are 3'x5'. Stacking them will put them at 6' tall and with the ceiling being 7'10" that means it will hang to around 5'10".

This will work out as the hood will drop a mere 2 to 3 inches below the absolute top of the backer board.

THANKS FOR READING

Last edited by Destonomos; 2018-09-06 at 4:13pm.
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Old 2018-09-06, 11:52pm
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I work with boro and soft. For my boro my hubby set up a refill station for me for oxygen. I thought it was from a thread somewhere here. We had a great supplier in Texas, and a good price. When we moved it was horrible. It got where I wouldn't want to do glass because I didn't want to deal with the gas company. It takes a bit of time (overnight) to fill the k-tank at home, but it is worth it not to have to lug the tanks or deal with a company. Best of luck.
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Old 2018-09-07, 6:52am
Destonomos Destonomos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kare TX View Post
I work with boro and soft. For my boro my hubby set up a refill station for me for oxygen. I thought it was from a thread somewhere here. We had a great supplier in Texas, and a good price. When we moved it was horrible. It got where I wouldn't want to do glass because I didn't want to deal with the gas company. It takes a bit of time (overnight) to fill the k-tank at home, but it is worth it not to have to lug the tanks or deal with a company. Best of luck.
This is extremely interesting to me. I'll be looking into this as well (long term). Bottled from the gas supplier now and then long term I would absolutely love to fill my own stuff. I have to drive 23 miles from my house 1 way to buy the oxygen. I did not realize this was even an option.

Thanks!
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Old 2018-09-07, 6:11pm
Destonomos Destonomos is offline
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Update time:

So today I began the process of hanging the hardie board. It started raining as I got home from work and upon entering the garage came to find a new problem, WATER!

Here is the problem:



The water is only around the mortar seam and that one second of cinder block and nowhere else. I checked the back of the garage which is exterior brick to see if water was streaming down the side of the garage, nope. There is no water from the roof to the spot so it has to be from inside the wall.

My garage has a walk out above it and you can enter it from the second floor stairs. I walked out onto the garage and I believe I found the culprit.

The tar on the top of the flashing around the corner of the roof has started to eat through the tar and holes are all over the place (even if they are small).

I am going to put a pause on work for tonight and reset tomorrow.

Tomorrow I am going to sweep the roof off and clean it. Get a hose and confirm that flashing around asphalt roof is the reason for the leak.

If that is confirmed I am going to take the flashing off all around the roof and clean it thoroughly, put the flashing back, and use roof cement on the tops of the flashing to the brick around the roof. This should fix it.

I'll have to wait till Sunday now to put the boards up as I want to confirm obviously that this fixes the problem after retesting on Sunday with a hose.

Hopefully the leak is fixed afterwards and I can then continue to mount the cement boards to the back wall.

I also plan to install the blower motor on the hood this weekend
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Old 2018-09-08, 7:26am
Destonomos Destonomos is offline
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So today I woke up and it is still raining . In addition the old water dried up and a new stream in the corner of the top left of the cinder block is wet but I finally found that the water is indeed coming from the flashing and is coming between the rubber against the brick and the first rafter.

Maybe tomorrow I can get on the roof and finally clean it up.
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  #23  
Old 2018-09-08, 8:16am
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Knowing the problem is the biggest hurdle sometimes, so once the rain stops you should be able to take care of that and get back on track!
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Old 2018-09-08, 6:04pm
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This is a good exhaust fan that some folks use.

https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/h...hutter-mounted

The regulators you listed are fairly inexpensive ones that will most likely last awhile, just be sure to take the pressure off the diaphragm when done working or they will fail a lot sooner.

This is the addy for "Mountain Glass" site. It's a good place for tools, glass, regs, splitters, and a bunch of other things you may or may not need/want.

https://www.mountainglass.com/

By the way I am using LED can lights and they are very bright and I can swivel the can to adjust where the light is focused. I also mounted a 12 inch florescent light to the left side of my bench for checking the roundness of marbles and other curves.
Have fun
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  #25  
Old 2018-09-08, 7:45pm
Destonomos Destonomos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaper View Post
This is a good exhaust fan that some folks use.

https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/h...hutter-mounted

The regulators you listed are fairly inexpensive ones that will most likely last awhile, just be sure to take the pressure off the diaphragm when done working or they will fail a lot sooner.

This is the addy for "Mountain Glass" site. It's a good place for tools, glass, regs, splitters, and a bunch of other things you may or may not need/want.

https://www.mountainglass.com/

By the way I am using LED can lights and they are very bright and I can swivel the can to adjust where the light is focused. I also mounted a 12 inch florescent light to the left side of my bench for checking the roundness of marbles and other curves.
Have fun
Awesome idea on the fan. My next question is how do this get duct added to it to attach it to the hood I have?

It seems to be half the cost of what I was going to pay so investigating an option would be nice.

I keep looking around and as far as single inlet fans are concerned I cannot find one bigger than the one in the harbor freight dust collector. If I search around I can find other dust collectors that advertise the same cfm but they all show the exact same motor in their design.

Last edited by Destonomos; 2018-09-09 at 2:58pm.
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  #26  
Old 2018-09-10, 7:31am
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Speedslug Speedslug is offline
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I used tin snips to fit one section of duct work into the other and pop rivets to hold them together.
I then wrap it all in metal foil tape for duct work.
Be sure it is metal foil and not just silver colored plastic tape.

Oh and the inner rubber parts of regulators get old just like hoses and tires do so plan now on probably replacing the regulators in a dozen years or so.
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Old 2018-09-10, 7:44am
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You might save yourself some hassle if yo can find ( and afford) a can or three of that Flex Seal that guy Phil is always selling on TV.
You can find it in the "As Seen On TV section at Walmart.


Be careful while you are up on the roof.
I have had one or two of my "inspection" tours cause more problems because I wasn't watching how and where I was walking.

Good Luck and keep us posted on your adventures.

Others will learn from what you tell us when they begin their attempts at building their own studio in the years ahead.

You do know that the brick walls you already have don't need the Hardy board for protection, right?

The Hardy board will give you more consistent lighting though and if you paint it you can also control the color of your work space by painting it.
I also suggest not putting very much adhesive up and then only in the corners where you can get it with a pry bar at it if you want to pull them done in the future.
The tapcon screws will hold it up just fine.
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  #28  
Old 2018-09-10, 3:06pm
Destonomos Destonomos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedslug View Post
You might save yourself some hassle if yo can find ( and afford) a can or three of that Flex Seal that guy Phil is always selling on TV.
You can find it in the "As Seen On TV section at Walmart.


Be careful while you are up on the roof.
I have had one or two of my "inspection" tours cause more problems because I wasn't watching how and where I was walking.

Good Luck and keep us posted on your adventures.

Others will learn from what you tell us when they begin their attempts at building their own studio in the years ahead.

You do know that the brick walls you already have don't need the Hardy board for protection, right?

The Hardy board will give you more consistent lighting though and if you paint it you can also control the color of your work space by painting it.
I also suggest not putting very much adhesive up and then only in the corners where you can get it with a pry bar at it if you want to pull them done in the future.
The tapcon screws will hold it up just fine.
Awesome info as always. Yeah, the glue is only to hold the cement board while I screw, not going to use it in lines or anything on the back.

As far as the hardie board is concerned... For some reason when the previous owner decided to cinder block up this doorway they thought that it would be a good idea to leave small sections of the wood in line with the brick. There are 2 sections where the wood is in the wall and I just wanted to be extra careful.

I also plan on not anchoring the cement board directly to the wall. I want to leave a small air gap and use it an an insulator of air to keep the hot air in the garage. This is an exterior wall and it would be nice if the brick to the right wall gets hotter as that is my kitchen wall ::razz. Just a hunch I wanted to try and see if it works.
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  #29  
Old 2018-09-10, 8:34pm
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I'm also setting up my shop since we moved. I don't know is any of these pictures will help you. One comment, make sure you label your glass. You will have more before you know it and since the same glass can look different with different runs it can be hard to remember down the line. This is the second major move I've had with my glass. I have a cubby for "mystery glass." Lucky its pretty small at this point.
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  #30  
Old 2018-09-11, 3:12pm
Destonomos Destonomos is offline
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Update Time:

So I mounted the cement boards to the wall last night. Below is the setup thus far:



Today I got my CFM meter in the mail from amazon.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I went to the harbor freight near my house and they were out of the dust collector >_<. The bigger kick in the gut is that of the 5 in my local area the one I went to is the ONLY one that is out of the item... I'll pick that up tomorrow after work I guess.

After I get the blower I am going to put together the hood and window exhaust and be done with that portion of the build.

Total cost:

CFM meter $17.50

Running Total: $1556.66
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