Help with Clio

Formed In Fire · #1 2011-09-04, 2:53pm

This bead is made with Striking orange, clear, clio, clear.
What am I doing wrong? Not quite getting the hot pinks.

I thought I followed all the steps in MSGS Vol3
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

AKDesigns · #2 2011-09-04, 3:05pm

It looks like you have a lot of reduction left on the surface before you encased it. Try burning off all the reduction in a neutral flame, strike the glass, switch to a reduction flame, do a quick roll through it so you just see some transparent luster on the surface and encase.

I don't have MSGS Vol3 so I don't know what the instructions are in that tutorial.

AKDesigns · #3 2011-09-04, 3:08pm

One more thing, all that layering for an orange backdrop sounds like a total pain. I have a write up on my blog and a bead showing what a base of Kalypso looks like. I've also gotten nice fuchsia with solid Clio.
http://beeswaxchatterbox.blogspot.co...-revisted.html

Formed In Fire · #4 2011-09-04, 3:13pm

So, am I over reducing it?
After the clio is layered on I heated the bead to hot - but not gloopy. Let cool, reduced by turning the oxy down, then encased not letting the bead touch the neutral flame. Am I suppose to strike after reducing before encasing?

This silver glass stuff confuses me so much.

DarkFlowerBead · #5 2011-09-04, 3:14pm

I agree it definately looks over reduced to me. Clio can be tricky because when you reduce it you think that its never enough, and then its too much. Try this. Make 3 or 4 simple clio beads and reduce the first for a one pass wave, reduce the second for a two pass wave...etc...sometimes you really cant tell until its done and out of the kiln. Also I try striking clio reducing slightly, and encasing in clio, and striking reducing and encasing in clear. Play with your clears also. Good luck. Amy that is one porntastic kalypso/clio bead
Cara

Nimbus · #6 2011-09-04, 3:15pm

Hi Michelle,

There might be several different reasons you are getting more of the blue, opaque color.
1. You could possibly be over reducing before you do the final layer of clear.
2. You might be heating the bead up too hot after the final layer of clear.
3. Sometimes if I have a very thin layer of clear encasing my reduced Clio, it will tend to go that hazy blue color. But again I think this is because it is easier to overheat the Clio with a thin layer of encasing.

Now all of that being said... I think your bead is very pretty, even if it is not what you had in mind.

Sometimes, I don't mind if I get more of that hazy blue color. I just posted a bead in my Etsy (Ripples) that has encased Clio, and has some of that hazy blue on the outer ends. It is because the encasing layer is thin and the Clio is out at the very edges underneath. I heat it up to press and the Clio goes blue/hazy.

Jeannie

AKDesigns · #7 2011-09-04, 3:22pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Formed In Fire

So, am I over reducing it?
After the clio is layered on I heated the bead to hot - but not gloopy. Let cool, reduced by turning the oxy down, then encased not letting the bead touch the neutral flame. Am I suppose to strike after reducing before encasing?

This silver glass stuff confuses me so much.

Strike, lightly reduce, encase.

AKDesigns · #8 2011-09-04, 3:23pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by DarkFlowerBead

I Amy that is one porntastic kalypso/clio bead
Cara

Thanks!

Formed In Fire · #9 2011-09-04, 3:38pm

Thanks for the tips.
I am gonna go play again and see what I get.
Amy, Jeannie and Cara - all of your beads are gorgeous!

DarkFlowerBead · #10 2011-09-04, 4:21pm

Thank you. here's some clio dark over tangerine sparkle. I also want to say that your bead is very nice and clio has a lot of different faces...
Cara

della · #11 2011-09-05, 12:57pm

Michelle, just one more little thing. I find that I get pink using clockwork more often than if I use transparent orange. But I have used all the oranges and they do work, but I get magneta more than pink. If you use white under (sometimes I do, sometimes not) you might wind whatever orange around randomly, rather than a full encasement. You also have to make sure you are forming the bead (before cooling, reducing ) in an oxygen rich flame. That way, Clio is not reducing while you are building it.
That's what works for me.
pam

LemonwoodStudio · #12 2011-09-05, 1:29pm

Hi Michelle ... there's always this thread about Clio too ... it's very long but a lot of good information about how to work Clio and methods that work for different people ....

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=154841

Good luck!

Formed In Fire · #13 2011-09-05, 1:42pm

OMG there is 49 pages in that tread - will take days upon days to read all that info. Thanks for the link!

Troll Lover · #14 2011-09-05, 2:25pm

It looks like the bead got quite some reduction (which isn't a bad thing imho), but you probably worked the bead a bit too hot and/or too long, which caused the reduction to keep on striking and get that haze. A bit of haze is good, to get the pinks, but too much and it will go more opaque and blue. But I agree with the rest, it's still a pretty bead

!

Formed In Fire · #15 2011-09-06, 7:11am

So, I am thinking that my oxycon is not putting out enough oxy. Even though my flame looks good, I think it is slightly reducing. I made a couple of small beads and did not reduce them at all and I got magentas and purples. I did put these on a red core.
This bead - turned down oxy same as very first bead in post

This bead - turned down oxy so the yellow was about 1/2"

This bead - just struck - no reduction, this bead is way more iridescent IRL

AKDesigns · #16 2011-09-06, 9:23am

That's why no one can really give you an exact guide on how to work a glass color. It's really going to depend on your own set up and even the batch of glass.

LemonwoodStudio · #17 2011-09-06, 5:24pm

Hi Michelle - could also try this link for a free tut on Clio / Pinks from Miriam ... just would cost a cup of coffee ..... I tried and got lovely color after battling for a long time!!!

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=197534