New Studio - Suggestions/Comments Welcome Pls!

[LemonwoodStudio]

Hi Everyone!

I’m a newbie just starting out setting up my own studio here in sunny Bermuda (mid Atlantic!). I’ve only done 3 lessons but am setting up as I am sooooo hooked!!! Not operational as yet and am still waiting for my BluebirdXL to arrive so gives me a bit of time to get it right. I’ve hijacked the space into a studio and should be able to pack away easily enough if we have guests!!!

I’ve been reading nearly everything I can get my hands on – have just ordered Jim Kervin’s book in addition to the bunch of others I already have (!), but still have some questions and if you can help I really would much appreciate anything anyone can advise, correct, suggest … etc, etc.
There are no lampwork studios here on the island offering any kind of lessons or about set up. There is a welding/gas store I have been to who are very helpful as far as they can but have no experience with bench torches, they deal with ‘guy welding stuff’. In an ideal world I would have someone who knows all about it come to check it all over before starting!

However, the thing I’m most anxious about is that I’m a bit stuck with setting up the torch correctly and that I do it properly as I don’t want to blow myself, anyone or the studio up when I use it!! I have a new Nortel Mega Minor bought from Wale Apparatus, the gas lines supplied from them (green and red with end fixtures – B style fittings).
Anyway, the Mega Minor – my questions:

1. I bought a pair of flashback arrestors from the local welding store (are attached to the torch in the pic), I thought these had to be connected at the tank end/regulator but the local welding store said no, they should be at the torch end – which way should it be?

2. I thought that the pipes should be connected using Teflon tape where the clamps screw onto the torch/regulator (or arrestors if they are attached to torch and then again at the pipes to the torch), in addition to the B fittings supplied on the ends of the pipes – but the welding store here said that was not necessary – is it? At torch and again at oxygen and propane tanks?

3. Should there be additional clamp things behind the B Clamps (silver clamps with the screw to make the seal tighter)?

4. My studio is set up with a working area at the back as per pic including a sink, including propane through the wall. Ideally it would be great to tap into that line somehow as it is piped through the wall with copper tubing, and use that (maybe with hose to the torch from there and quick connects? But would be a long run of hoses to the work area – about 8’ I guess), otherwise I’d need to have another tank outside on the opposite wall to my workbench which would be in exposed sunlight which can get up to 90 degrees + on occasion in summer (tho most people leave their BBQs outside, propane tanks and all and the local gas facility does too!) all summer/winter (no snow or anything extreme like that!) – would that be a problem? But, if I were to tap into the existing piping (would get a qualified plumber to do it for me of course) I’d need to use quick connects somehow as I’d have to disconnect the torch each evening to be safe. Can anybody recommend a better solution?

5. Ventilation – I have a kitchen island hood (650cfm) which I aim to suspend from the ceiling and vent out of the window (+ 6 feet away whichever side I set up on). There are windows on both sides of the workspace which are 13’ apart. The total floor area on the ground floor (there is a spiral stair upstairs to a living area) is: 208 sq ft. A) do I need to add an enclosed area around the work space or not? B) Is 650cfm enough?

6. If I set up on the right of the door I have blank wall in front of me (but the fuse box is up there too – possible safety problem?). If I set up on the left I have a window right in front of the work area – is that good or not (am thinking not?), or will it make the flame hard to see? Any recommendations or just personal preference at the end of the day? I just want to make the right decision. I kind of like the right side set up because it has a blank wall …..? Venting is pretty much the same at each side, will be ducted through the window to outside. The workbench (which I made myself is on wheels so mobile and can be locked into place without any problem and is secure.

7. Eye gear – have obtained a pair of work shades (not glasses - more like what a welder looks through but without the faceguard, and they have ‘AVC’ engraved on them – does anyone know what this means and might they be good for boro (eventually?! Nothing like a little ambition!!).

8. I acquired this small hand torch – what would it be useful for? I believe the lady who used to own it did beadwork but I don’t know. I also have an old minor of hers too – am a bit nervous to try it out as it is older (doesn’t even have the model name on the stand) and would have preferred to have it checked out before using it but no-one here to do that.

I’m going to have to either tile the 4x4 post (sitting directly behind the stainless worktop) or find something else the same size, maybe some bricks instead?

The large propane cylinder is no longer there! It is outside.

Floor is all tile. Wall concrete tho intend to have stainless backing if possible, fire extinguisher will be by the door which I have but not installed as yet.

Phew .... Anything I have forgotten?

Sorry so many questions!

Amanda

[Lorraine Chandler]

I am quite sure someone will shortly volunteer for a private one on one with you in exchange for a paid vacation to Bermuda!!!

They can help you set up and give you a few lessons in exchange for your putting them up and maybe have them return for classes in the future? Your studio space is going to be awesome with plenty of room!!

I would offer but I am getting ready to sell our house so no time at the present. I would love to see Bermuda!!!

Welcome to the madness......

[squid]

I can help with the first three

1. torch end.

2. no, no teflon tape

3. no

[NMLinda]

Welcome!

I hope I've understood your questions. Will try to answer as best I can:

1. The flashback arrestors are best placed at the torch. Since you have B fittings at your torch and can connect them directly, you have perhaps the most ideal arrangement.

2&3. If you have B-fittings, you don't need additional hose clamps. You also don't need to use teflon tape - all you care about is that there are no leaks when you're done putting everything together. Put a little dish soap in a squirt bottle and squirt each of the connections (with the appropriate gas on) to see if you have any bubbles. If you do, you need to tighten that connection.

4. Check to see what the regulated pressure is coming in through the wall on your main\propane supply. Most oxy/propane torches need about 4-5 psi, although I've heard that the Cricket can work effectively on less. If you have the appropriate psi for your primary torch, you're fine and can tap off your propane line directly. You'll want to add a shut-off valve in the leg that goes to your torch so that you can quickly cut off the gas if needed (don't rely on the quick connect as a gas sut-off...). If it comes in less than what your torch needs, you may need to describe your work area propane system a little more for us to help you.

5. Whether 650 cfm is enough depends on the size of the hood. A general rule of thumb is

cfm = length of hood (in feet) x height of hood above table (in feet) x 125 (if there are no sides)

or

cfm = length of hood (in feet) x height of hood above table (in feet) x 100 (if the sides and back are fully enclosed)

Don't forget that you have to plus up the cfm to account for any static pressure losses caused by 90 degree bends and lengths of ventilation pipe. The bigger the diameter of the ventilation pipe/bends you use, the lower the losses. Also, some fans don't like much static pressure, so you may have to research your hood's performance a bit. Bigger diameter vent pipe helps with that (ie 8"-10" in diameter)

6. Where you show your work space in the photo looks convenient. Makes it easy to vent. I like having a wall so that I don't get light glare. Also makes it easier to experiment with backdrops to make the flame easier to see, and to enclose your hood if you find you need to.

7. I highly recommend you get the book "More than you every wanted to know about glass beadmaking" by James Kervin and that you read the safety section. Lampworking eyewear is specialized for the kinds of IR, UV and visible light the glass emits when it's hot. For soft glass, the best kind of eyewear to get is AUR92 or Phillips 202. These are designed to filter out the harmful IR and UV, as well as the annoying visible-range sodium flare. Welder's shades #3 or #5 are common add-ons for boro, but I recommend you cruise the boro sites to familiarize yourself with boro protection.

8. If you choose to use this torch, absolutely be sure you have flashback arrestors on both oxy and propane sides as close to the torch as you can. This is a pre-mix torch, and pre-mix torches are prone to flashbacks. If you pipe it into the same gas lines as any surface mix torch you might be using (such as a minor, cricket, mini cc, etc) be absolutely sure you've done the same at the surface mix torch (you should anyway: these can, under certain circumstances, flashback also). We had one LE member who posted having had a flashback that had everone running from the building - turns out that he had both surface mix and pre-mix torches going on common lines with no FBAs, if I remember correctly. Nothing wrong with pre-mix torches by the way - they're popular with folks who do boro.

Looks like you've got a great set-up in progress: congratulations! You've got a second window for make-up air, which is wonderful. If you use the door for make-up air, just remember that you have to keep your vent hood exhaust 10' or mor away so that you don't pull the bad fumes right back into your work area.

Please ask more questions if you need more help!

Linda

[LemonwoodStudio]

Hi Lorraine, Squid and Linda
Thank you for your comments.
Lorraine - I had actually thought about that - offering free accommodation in exchange for one on one lessons which - would save quite a lot for someone coming on vacation (max a couple!) but not sure I could do airfare as well! Definitely something to work on I think!

Squid - thank you and glad you understood my very technical terms!

Linda - many thanks for going through all 8!
4. - my work area would be about 6-8' from the propane supply so would the pressure drop with that distance? Maybe it would be better just to pipe through to a tank on the outside instead of having to deal with yards of hose?!
6. re cfm: hood is 54" so works out about:
2.5' x 2' x 125= 625
or
2.5 x 2' x 100 = 500
What distance is a usual height for a hood/vent? I plan to mount the hood on pullys so I can lower and higher it as necessary. But max 24" above work bench I think?
6. - I am leaning more towards the wall side I think.
7. Book is on its way already!
8. I think I'll put away that torch for another time!
Venting - I might end up havng to extend the venting a bit outside the building because if I do use the front entrance doors for make up air they are within 10' of both windows. I'll work something out.

Thank you all for your suggestions.
Amanda

[Cherine Perrin]

What a beautiful space. I love the tile on the floor and all the light. Your gonna love the Bluebird XL, that's the kiln I have and it is awesome!

Congrats!

[LemonwoodStudio]

Hi Cherine - thank you. Hope to get it pretty much finished in the next 2 weeks. Will post a couple pics of the finished thing!!! Thanks! Amanda

[Kris Schaible]

Amanda
the nice thing for you will be to be able to keep your door and windows open for additional airflow... alos if you have a dark surface that the "flame area" of the torch will be in it will helo with being able to see the flame.... white is very hard color to see the flame against... hope that makes sense... I alos have A bluebird and you will ove that kiln, plenty of room.
Don't worry about a drop in pressure at those distances....
I also recommend Cindy Jenkins book and Corina Tettingers books... they were my 1st "lessons"

Hope you are well and having fun setting up!!!

[LemonwoodStudio]

Hey Kris. Thanks. PM'd you just now re the glass. I'm going to work more on the studio next week. I might actually have a couple 24" x 24" tiles left over from the backsplash from the kitchen area so should be able to work something out to put them on the wall so I get the dark background. Thanks for that tip. I'm working through 'Passing the Flame' at the moment - have Making Glass Beads as well. So many ideas !!!
Thanks! Amanda

[NMLinda]

Originally Posted by Wyddle

Linda - many thanks for going through all 8!
4. - my work area would be about 6-8' from the propane supply so would the pressure drop with that distance? Maybe it would be better just to pipe through to a tank on the outside instead of having to deal with yards of hose?!
6. re cfm: hood is 54" so works out about:
2.5' x 2' x 125= 625
or
2.5 x 2' x 100 = 500
What distance is a usual height for a hood/vent? I plan to mount the hood on pullys so I can lower and higher it as necessary. But max 24" above work bench I think?
6. - I am leaning more towards the wall side I think.
7. Book is on its way already!
8. I think I'll put away that torch for another time!
Venting - I might end up havng to extend the venting a bit outside the building because if I do use the front entrance doors for make up air they are within 10' of both windows. I'll work something out.

Thank you all for your suggestions.
Amanda

Hi Amanda

Here's some more thoughts for you

4. You don't need to be concerned about pressure drop through the pipe for that length. What you need to know is how far down your propane has been regulated from your primary tank before it comes into your building. It's against code virtually everywhere to have propane come in at the tank pressure (quite dangerous....) so I'm sure you have a regulator some place before the pipe comes in through the wall. It's likely to be a fixed regulator and hopefully will be labeled with the output PSI.

6. Unfortunately, you haven't left yourself headroom for ventilation pipe losses for working with open sides - 90 degree bends (you will very likely need 1-2 to get from your fan to the outside) are necessary but a bit lossy - so your fan is slightly undersized if you go with no back and sides. Some fans are very sensitive to any kind of loss, too, so it might be a very good idea for you to add a back and sides and seal it well to your work surface unless you know how the fan performs looking into static pressure and are comfortable with that calculation. Height above the work surface is more a personal preference thing - I like my hood about 24"-28" above my work surface (I'm a bit vertically challenged, so this works for me), but if you go with 28", for example, your fan is even further undersized for no-sides. I don't recommend having a feature to enable changing the height - once you have it matched to your fan's cfm after ventilation pipe losses (ie static pressure losses), you don't want to raise it - you won't be as well protected as you need to be.

Either extending the vent ducting along the building away from the doorway or above the roofline will both help with making sure you have at least 10' between your exhaust and your fresh air souce (eg your door).

Hope that helps, and keep asking questions!

Linda

[LemonwoodStudio]

Hi Linda
Thanks again!

4. Great, will cross off the query about pressure drop. There will definitely be a regulator outside - you can see it on top of the propane tank ready to be connected and will be outside behind the wall where the kitchen set up is. So will definitely check that when we get that far. I actually have a propane regulator when I thought of a separate tank to the kitchen, would it be a good idea to attach that just after the shut off valve on the inside of the studio?

6. I was working on only having 1 90 degree bend to get out the window but until I actually install it will be difficult to tell. I will work something out to add back and sides. The only reason I was going to have something to change height was if we have guests I can hoist it further up to get it a bit more out the way! And then lower it again when I get back to work.

Venting - the building is two storey so could be a bit of a problem to get the distance upwards but might be able to work something out to get it overground distance away - the studio is sort of built into the hill a bit.

Thank you - Amanda

[NMLinda]

Originally Posted by Wyddle

Hi Linda
Thanks again!

4. .... I actually have a propane regulator when I thought of a separate tank to the kitchen, would it be a good idea to attach that just after the shut off valve on the inside of the studio?

6. I was working on only having 1 90 degree bend to get out the window but until I actually install it will be difficult to tell. I will work something out to add back and sides. The only reason I was going to have something to change height was if we have guests I can hoist it further up to get it a bit more out the way! And then lower it again when I get back to work.

Venting - the building is two storey so could be a bit of a problem to get the distance upwards but might be able to work something out to get it overground distance away - the studio is sort of built into the hill a bit.

Thank you - Amanda

Hi Amanda -

4. Dale M has a great post on the Art Glass Answers forum on how to pipe propane into a building, and how to organize regulators inside vs outside. It's well worth getting a membership on that board so that you can see his drawings. You live in a fairly benign climate, so you can probably get away with having a single adjustable regulator on your tank outside - in your case, it likely won't be inconvenient to go outside to set it to the desired pressure for your torch (about 4-5 psi), plus you have a handy door. It's important, however, to be sure you've regulated the pressure down to at least 10psi before bringing the propane comes in. The propane tank's internal pressure typically runs around 70+ psi, which is not safe to bring in through the wall. The set-up Dale recommends is propane tank - regulator - shut-off valve - black pipe through the wall - another shut-off valve inside - then torch.

If you don't feel like going outside to adjust/set the propane pressure when you start working, Dale's posted a drawing on the above forum showing how to put a fixed 10psi regulator outside at the propane tank and putting the adjustable one inside. A little more complicated, but interesting to those of us who don't have convenient access to the tank like you have or live in colder climates.

6. I wouldn't hoist your hood up for guests - you want to protect them too if they watch! Best is to just leave it fixed. I find that my guests can see just fine from behind/to my side, anyway. If you use plexiglass/lexan for the sides, they can see through that, too.

Your building being 2-story is'n necessarily a problem - you just want to run your vent ducting outside far enough in some convenient direction to keep it 10' or more away from any fresh air openings you plan to use, like your door. You don't have to take it above your roofline. Whatever you decide to do, think about putting a bug screen over the end and ensuring that it's angled to avoid collecting rain.

Linda

[Dale M.]

One little correction to Linda's remarks on propane pressure.... The tank pressure for propane is about 127 PSI (8.7 bar) at 70° f. (21.1 C.) .. And goes up as temperature increases...

Dale

[LemonwoodStudio]

Hi Dale
Thank you - it does get very hot here in Bermuda, so I could put it under cover to give it a bit of shade in one of those rubbermaid things, but that won't change the ambient air temperature outside of course and could actually make it somewhat hotter if there's no air movement around it, so maybe a shade cover but no doors ....? Earlier this week it was up to 80 deg and it isn't even proper summer as yet. We also have one of the really huge tanks of propane that supplies the main house tht gets filled once a month and that sits outside all the time. Mostly everyone I know has their house cooking propane just against the outside wall of their house.

How do you deal with different pressure for different times of the year - going from 90 down to about 60 at different times of year or is that not an issue?

Or am I completely missing something?

[NMLinda]

Originally Posted by Dale M.

One little correction to Linda's remarks on propane pressure.... The tank pressure for propane is about 127 PSI (8.7 bar) at 70° f. (21.1 C.) .. And goes up as temperature increases...

Dale

Well, not so small error on my part!! Thanks, Dale!

Linda

[Dale M.]

Originally Posted by Wyddle

Hi Dale
Thank you - it does get very hot here in Bermuda, so I could put it under cover to give it a bit of shade in one of those rubbermaid things, but that won't change the ambient air temperature outside of course and could actually make it somewhat hotter if there's no air movement around it, so maybe a shade cover but no doors ....? Earlier this week it was up to 80 deg and it isn't even proper summer as yet. We also have one of the really huge tanks of propane that supplies the main house tht gets filled once a month and that sits outside all the time. Mostly everyone I know has their house cooking propane just against the outside wall of their house.

How do you deal with different pressure for different times of the year - going from 90 down to about 60 at different times of year or is that not an issue?

Or am I completely missing something?

A bit of shade is probably a good idea, ambient temperature is not really a issue as there is propane tanks in use in much hotter climates that there....

Its just a good thing to know that if temperatures climb so does pressure...

Here is some reference information...

http://www.flameengineering.com/Propane_Info.html

Dale

[LemonwoodStudio]

Thank you both! I've printed out the info on the link you provided and will keep it in my reference file.

[Seasoned Soul]

Hi Amanda,

Good luck with your Studio. I've just about completed mine and am actually able to...ahh.... melt glass!!! woohoo! All the people who replied to your post have helped me tremendously, couldn't have done it without them. I love your space and yeah, white is hard to see the flame against. I placed a dark 12X12 tile behind my flame and it helped.

Keep us updated on your progress.

[theglasszone]

Hi Amanda!

Wow, what a gorgeous set up you're creating for yourself!!! I'm a little jealous!

Regarding piping the propane into the studio, here's my tutorial on how to do it - it's free and posted right here on LE: http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ghlight=piping

I'm not sure if you have a "Home Depot" in Bermuda (hopefully!) but this will give you a good guide at least on how the piping is done and what type of parts you'll need!

My grandfather was Bermudian. His great, great grandmother - Blanche McNevin - was a gorgeous woman with piercing blue eyes, a shock of long white hair, and a constitution that was known around the island! My middle name is her maiden name - as are so "middle named" all the "strong" women in my family including my beautiful daughter. I've never been to the island...I hear it is simply spectacular!

Welcome to LE and to the new world of glass. You're gonna love it!

De

[LemonwoodStudio]

Hi Lynn, appeciate your reply. I did find a 24 x 24 left over tile from the backsplash of the kitchen area so will use that. Many thanks. Amanda

[LemonwoodStudio]

Hi De, thank you for your kind comments!! And thank you for the tut (see, learning the lingo already from reading so much on LE!!!), I'm starting a little folder for all this helpful info as I have a couple friends who are already badgering me about learning too!

We don't have Home Depot very sadly, just a couple big hardware stores which are quite good, but just don't compare to a Home Depot or Lowes or suchlike!! Always a big treat when we travel to go round Home Depot, Walmart, etc, etc!!

The world really does get smaller!! Let me know if you decide to come to visit! If you have Bermudian relatives it would be fun tracking the family down and finding out more! My husband's family can trace their relatives back to the 1600s to some of the first settlers!

Thank you again for the tutorial.

Amanda

[Seasoned Soul]

Originally Posted by Wyddle

Hi De, thank you for your kind comments!! ....

The world really does get smaller!! Let me know if you decide to come to visit! If you have Bermudian relatives it would be fun tracking the family down and finding out more! My husband's family can trace their relatives back to the 1600s to some of the first settlers!

Thank you again for the tutorial.

Amanda

Okay De, I can see it now...

setting up a torch.. right there on the sand...
the breeze could pose a problem but I think I could adapt and get over it!

of course that's how I see Bermuda.... sand and sea

most people see Texas and cows and horses...ugh... I've never even been close to a cow!


LOL!!!

[LemonwoodStudio]

Add an icy Dark n'Stormy cocktail (Goslings ginger beer and Black Seal Rum (locally made and very good!!!), don't forget the umbrella, lotion and sunglasses, relax .... and dream some more ideas for beads ....!!!!

[Seasoned Soul]

Ohhhhh, that was nice Amanda. Do you work for a travel agency? That picture you painted was.....just perfect. I almost jumped from LE over to Travelocity to check ticket prices...

[LemonwoodStudio]

Hey Lynn ... no! Have thought though for my profile pic I might stage it on the beach or on the end of our dock, working at a table with a torch with a couple of tanks of gas next to me with the cocktail trolly behind me, sunset background .... what a hoot that would be!!!! It is a good life here, I have to say, tho very expensive. Any supplies coming in are usually 22.25% duty on top of cost price, tho glass is 'only' 10% duty, but add that to shipping on top of cost, it adds up very quick!!

[Kris Schaible]

Originally Posted by Wyddle

Add an icy Dark n'Stormy cocktail (Goslings ginger beer and Black Seal Rum (locally made and very good!!!), don't forget the umbrella, lotion and sunglasses, relax .... and dream some more ideas for beads ....!!!!

MMM. Can't wait....

[Bright-eyed Beads]

I don't have the link here but Andrea Gurano (?spelling?) has a fantastic ventilation tut that is flexible and can be made to be movable. Need to keep you headspace above the workstation for all your loverly ideas! You can get the fan online either through home depot or a hydroponic supplies shop. Range hood you have now is ok but not good in the long run. It's limitation is that it may not get enough fumes out if you are using silver, silver glasses and that sort of thing. As a place to start for making some basic beads , you can get away with it, but plan to up grade or use the hood but upgrade the fan. Congraduations on your new studio and I can't wait to see some more photos once it is all finished

[lonerp]

Here´s the link to Andreas tut on ventilation. It is what I used when setting up my studio. it is very informative and easy to follow.
http://www.andreaguarino.com/ventilation/

[NMLinda]

Originally Posted by lonerp

Here´s the link to Andreas tut on ventilation. It is what I used when setting up my studio. it is very informative and easy to follow.
http://www.andreaguarino.com/ventilation/

Just be aware that, to my knowledge, there seems to be no analysis or test evidence to indicate that this type of ventilation system, as attractive as it looks, fully captures the spent exhaust products produced in/by the flame. The traditional hood style, by contrast, is well documented and supported. Don't be fooled by the bent flame that you can see in the photo - what you're worried about are CO and NOx products you can't see. No information seems to be available on whether this design completely captures these. My other issue with this set up is the extensive use of flexible ducting, which is exceptionally lossy, especially if it's only 6" in diameter The modest fan cited in the tut will yield way, way less at the torch as a result. Folks sensitive to fumes may find this approach will not protect them sufficiently.

For those who may be tempted to try this, I would highly encourage doing a smoke bomb test with the torch going so that you can get a good visual on how well it works. I do NOT recommend a simple incense test to verify safety. If you choose to do this, PLEASE post your results!! I mean no disrespect to Andrea, who is an eminent and talented artist - there simply isn't enough info out there about this design. It would be great to learn more about it's true effectiveness.

Linda

[LemonwoodStudio]

Hi there

Bright-eyed Beads, thank you for posting. I had a very quick look (as rushing to get kids from school) - the hood I have is 650cfm and, if I didn't miss anything, the one Andrea has in her tut is 289cfm. I do intend to add back/sides to the hood I have which will help and have it no more than absolute max 24" above tabletop, probably nearer 18".

Lonerp - thank you for the link.

Linda, thank you for your post. Working on the info from your previous post:

cfm = length of hood (in feet) x height of hood above table (in feet) x 100 (if the sides and back are fully enclosed) 4.5 x 1.5 x 100 = 675

I'm going to have to go with the hood I have and enclose it in once it is up, but will make sure I test it properly, I can't afford to start again! I'll make sure I do a smoke test as well as incense.

Thank you all.
Amanda