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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #1  
Old 2009-01-02, 3:25pm
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montanamurri montanamurri is offline
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Default "Making Waves" color consistent

I love this technique but can't seem to figure out how to get the color consistent. Wherever the 'wave' of clear hasn't covered, the colors are completely different. Most of the colors I am having problems with are striking colors or silver based, glass alchemy. Any help would be great!
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  #2  
Old 2009-01-02, 3:39pm
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Do you have a picture of what you're shooting for?
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Old 2009-01-02, 3:50pm
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I don't have a picture but I am trying to accomplish Remschneider's wave by placing a wrap of stringer around the bead and then applying and 's' shape of clear over it to get a wave effect, which works. But, the areas not covered with clear are very opaque and not pretty.
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  #4  
Old 2009-01-02, 3:58pm
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More oxy... keep the haze burned off. Too much surface haze becomes tan and opaque... commonly referred to as "baby poop". A little haze can yield wonderful variations of the silver colors... but too much is just nasty.
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  #5  
Old 2009-01-02, 4:36pm
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If only all my problems be answered that easily! Thank you Mr. Smiley! After reading your response I turned down the oxy and finished a perfect bead. Life CAN be so simple sometimes.
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  #6  
Old 2009-01-02, 5:04pm
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Well, I hope you turned your propane down or your oxy up... but whatever the case, I'm glad you got it worked out.
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  #7  
Old 2009-01-03, 8:24am
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I turned down the oxy and the color came out nice. But, after I pulled it out of the kiln (1050) for 3 hours i still see a difference between the color that has been covered with the clear and that that hasn't. Not a big difference but noticeable.
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  #8  
Old 2009-01-03, 9:25am
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There will definitely be a difference between encased and unencased silver colors. No way to get around that... might get real lucky every once in a while... but I use this variation to my advantage.
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  #9  
Old 2009-01-03, 11:57am
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I have never watched Remschneider's video but I am familiar with the technique that he teaches. Personally I think the below technique is so much more simple and easier to control haze.

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=99725
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  #10  
Old 2009-01-03, 2:58pm
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It can help also if you encase your whole bead after laying down the zig-zag...there'll still be a variation of color, but the ones which were not encased with the stringer will have more zing!
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  #11  
Old 2009-01-03, 4:17pm
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Thank you everyone. Rob- I have tried the method and wanted to try something new. Think I may go back to that one. It doesn't look terrible, I am just picky. Val- I shall try your suggestion before completely giving up. Or, like Mr. Smiley says - use it to my advantage. Thank yous, thank yous all around.
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  #12  
Old 2009-01-03, 4:23pm
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You might want to be careful about just "turning down the O2 pressure". The proper thing to do is find out the recommended pressure setting for your type of torch and then learn to adjust your flame with the knobs on the torch. If you continue to run low pressures you run the risk of ruining your torch.
Also remember that what it looks like in the flame is not always what it looks like out of the kiln
JK
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  #13  
Old 2009-01-04, 9:19am
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I always leave my gas and oxy ratio at 10:2 (or 5 to 1 ratio). The rest of the adjusting i do is on my torch (redmax). I am hoping this is correct. Would hate to ruin 'Max'.
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