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Jelveh Designs - Glass Beads Torched One-by-One

Beads of Courage


 

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  #1  
Old 2007-07-13, 12:22pm
bumble_beads bumble_beads is offline
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Default 1st cracked beads... what happened?

Okay, I don't know what I did wrong. I made these beads with a small base of Egyptian White, then Triple Passion, a few dots of GA Mint, then encased in clear. Everyone single one cracked.


Any clue what may have gone haywire? Do some of these colors not play nice together?
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  #2  
Old 2007-07-13, 12:33pm
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Pics?
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  #3  
Old 2007-07-13, 12:51pm
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Here's one of them.
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  #4  
Old 2007-07-13, 12:54pm
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I think ( but it's a wild guess) that the beadrelease underneath your bead cracked and that the glass touched the mandrell. I've had this happen and by the looks of your mandrel this is what might have happened.

If not it could be the mint, I've heard that greens are difficult sometimes
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  #5  
Old 2007-07-13, 12:55pm
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that is a beautiful bead too!
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  #6  
Old 2007-07-13, 12:58pm
bumble_beads bumble_beads is offline
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LOL! The release is just from me trying to take the bead off the mandrel The rest weren't like that.

Darn greens...

Thank you so much.
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  #7  
Old 2007-07-13, 12:59pm
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OMG! Thank you Squid!!!!
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  #8  
Old 2007-07-13, 1:02pm
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Is the crack internal or external? it appears that it is cracked near the color and cannot be felt by running your nail across it...... internal stress is a result of working to long on the surface (or shaping) allowing to core to cool off too quickly or too much. how large are they and are you doing just one per mandrel or several? Do you batch anneal or put them right into the kiln?
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  #9  
Old 2007-07-13, 1:15pm
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I had this problem with some beads that had a base of EWS. I was told that if you lay down a footprint of clear first, they won't crack, and I haven't had any problems since.
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  #10  
Old 2007-07-13, 1:15pm
bumble_beads bumble_beads is offline
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Wow... lots of questions

Okay, I'm a glutton for punishment, so after I made 2 per mandrel and they cracked I tried one per mandrel. All cracked. Sizes varied from 12mm up to an inch.

And usually I batch anneal. I think even if they'd gone straight to kiln there still would have been losses. Two cracked while I worked one next to it.

When I run my nail across the crack I can't feel it, but they certainly fall apart when I take them off the mandrel.
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  #11  
Old 2007-07-13, 1:16pm
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Thank you Darcy! I'll try that!
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  #12  
Old 2007-07-13, 1:17pm
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hmmm.. I'm not too experienced with boro, but that almost sounds like a thermal crack - are they breaking in half? I would expect an incompatibility crack to be close to the color that is the culprit.
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  #13  
Old 2007-07-13, 1:20pm
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the stress is in the core...try keeping the base hotter (nice orange glow) when you encase when finished flame polish in the outer region of a large bushy flame.
If you batch anneal then make certain the bead is not glowing before you put it vermiculite.

if all that doesn't work for ya ~try making a tiny flat barrel of clear before you work on the colors and see what happens
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  #14  
Old 2007-07-13, 1:24pm
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Thank you so much! I loved this color combination... watching them all crack made me want to cry. Have to try it again.
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  #15  
Old 2007-07-13, 1:26pm
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they're so pretty it almost makes ME want to cry - I can only imagine how you must feel!
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  #16  
Old 2007-07-13, 1:40pm
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Egyptian White Sand does that when it's touching the mandrel for some reason. Try just putting down a thin layer of clear, then the EWS. That usually does the trick.

If the green would have caused the crack, it would have been more of a spiderweb crack around the green itself. And, Mint usually doesn't do it. It's usually only the "green" greens. The ones that have blue in them usually are fine.
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Last edited by Cosmo; 2007-07-13 at 1:55pm.
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  #17  
Old 2007-07-13, 1:41pm
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Awww..bumble beads...I am so sorry your beads cracked....it's beautiful!!!

Using a clear base is an awesome idea. Sometimes also when you don't fully encase(let a little bit of the base peek out from the clear on the ends) it helps let the stress out in beads for some reason....
Encasing greens(and sparklies) is tricky....they need lots of O2 and even then they can crack....Forest Green is a nice green that can be encased(I learned that from Patrice--thanks Patrice!!)
good luck and I hope your beads stay crack-free
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  #18  
Old 2007-07-13, 1:52pm
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yes yes white should never touch the mandrel
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  #19  
Old 2007-07-13, 7:02pm
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Thanks so much everyone! I'll give it another go on Monday. I'm just kicking myself on this one.

And thanks for the compliments! I just started making boro beads seriously 3 weeks ago and when I see other people's stuff I wonder what the heck I think I'm doing... compliments are encouraging LOL!
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  #20  
Old 2007-07-13, 9:29pm
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I vote thermal cracks - that's what it looks like.

And/or the green curse - Any time I encase a green
I get cracking. Greens are SUCH a Beatch.
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  #21  
Old 2007-07-13, 9:55pm
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Beautiful beads! Sorry they cracked, but glad I read the thread so I know not to use white against the mandrel! Thanks!!!
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  #22  
Old 2007-07-13, 11:12pm
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Thank you

Like I said, glutton for punishment... we'll see what happens Monday. Unless, of course, hubby doesn't notice me slip away to the workshop this weekend

I just need a big thread of "don't do this" information.
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  #23  
Old 2007-07-14, 5:37am
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Gorgeous Bead.... I don't have a clue what happened, but I just learned alot!!!
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  #24  
Old 2007-07-14, 9:50am
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~well I have worked with the E.W and made a ton of spacers and mixed colors with no problems......so I think it can be touching the mandrel

~the problem may be in the initial preheating of the mandrel??
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  #25  
Old 2007-07-14, 12:26pm
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"~the problem may be in the initial preheating of the mandrel??"

Whatchu talkin bout, Willis? Er... William.

They seemed to have skipped that part on the Boro Bead Magic DVD. Is there a certain way I'm supposed to do that?
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  #26  
Old 2007-07-15, 2:25pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumble_beads View Post
"~the problem may be in the initial preheating of the mandrel??"

Whatchu talkin bout, Willis? Er... William.

They seemed to have skipped that part on the Boro Bead Magic DVD. Is there a certain way I'm supposed to do that?
It is best to heat the mandrel to a quick flash of orange,then keep beneath the flame in or around (above) the extreme heating area.........there is a balance between too much and too little heat in the mandrel. ~too little heat bead crack from the core ~too much heat and the release will flake apart or the metal will be pitted,etc..

~Hope this helps ya my friend

~W~
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  #27  
Old 2007-09-01, 7:12pm
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Did you ever get it figured out?
I am guessing that even if you put clear down before the white they are cracking because you are batch annealing. The COE's must be off just enough that they don't survive batch annealing.
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Old 2007-09-01, 11:46pm
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I agree with William, I've made a lot of beads using EWS and dap , encased in clear but none of them cracked. I must say that I am using a flame dry beadrelease wich needs to be glowing red in order to hold the glass when I am applying it to my mandrel, so you might be on the right track there.
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  #29  
Old 2007-09-02, 5:20am
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Default Interesting info!

Fairly new to boro, too and have had problems with EWS encased in TP cracking. Didn't realize I needed to lay down a layer of clear before EWS! Thanks!
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  #30  
Old 2007-09-02, 9:31am
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Suzanne do you batch anneal also?
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