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  #61  
Old 2009-03-01, 12:08pm
Chau Nguyen T Chau Nguyen T is offline
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Default Copper Etching with Salt....

Tracy, you said 'I didn't purchase this transformer just used one that was left over from another item like a phone or something.'

I digged into the throw-away box and found one old phone that has a BadaptorB that we can plug into the electrial outlet for power.

This adaptor is the power source you had on your set up, correct? If yes, then i have found the righ thing.

I've been collected materials for this process and the power source is the last thing i was looking. I'll wait to hear from you before start doing the etching. I'm so excited and hopeful. I can't wait to see how things turn out. It's so wonderful that you can do something so beautiful at no cost.

Thank you very much for showing me how to do this.
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  #62  
Old 2009-03-02, 9:50am
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As long as the adapter says AC to DC power it will work you need direct power. My friends have had very good look with one of those large lantern batterys.
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  #63  
Old 2009-03-04, 5:47am
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Sandra,
Just wanted to tell you how lovely your caps are. Yes, your beads are also lovely and the caps add a wonderful touch to them.
Joan
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  #64  
Old 2009-03-04, 4:32pm
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Thanks Joan. They do become addicting between the etching, coring and then making more beads so I can do it again!
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  #65  
Old 2009-09-17, 3:19pm
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While compiling info on this process so I can print it out and read it all together I found a link to download a free copy (free until 9/25/09) of a tutorial from Art Jewelry magazine that covers a lot of this information, with great pictures.
http://cs.artjewelrymag.com/artcs/bl...-magazine.aspx
Hope this helps.
Tina
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  #66  
Old 2010-02-01, 6:20am
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Thank you very much, you have just opened a new world for me, I have just started working with copper and this is fantastic.
Thanks again

Pete
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  #67  
Old 2010-02-01, 8:03am
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I just found this too. I'm thinking that you don't need to buy a bubbler, just hook up your oxycon (if you use one) with a piece of tubing and feed that into the solution. Probably would be a good idea to turn the volume way down though.

Greg
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  #68  
Old 2010-02-01, 7:12pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thl View Post
...it preferentially etches the alligator clips so if you use them, keep them out of the solution.
Ahem...for what?

De
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  #69  
Old 2010-02-02, 5:15am
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Tami can you post a pic of how you set this up? I plan on trying this today with a 6volt lantern battery and some copper flashing that I have on hand before i spend any money at all << (cheapo) lol. also is Etching and Plating the same theory? Could I plate tin with copper using this system?

Pete
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  #70  
Old 2010-02-02, 2:39pm
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thats cool looking, its been raining here all day Im going to try tommorrow thanks for the info.

Pete
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  #71  
Old 2010-02-02, 2:46pm
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For plating you need to go with the electro plating system like Tink sells. It looks like ya got the etching down
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  #72  
Old 2010-02-02, 7:27pm
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I hear you can but I have not been able to make it work so the battery is the best.
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  #73  
Old 2010-02-05, 7:49pm
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Those are great
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  #74  
Old 2010-02-28, 7:16pm
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Wow We tried it tonight. It worked I was amazed. My husband used a battery charger I think its a little much. In a short time the 18 gauage wire burned into, and the piece dropped to the bottom. Any idea's are welcome.
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  #75  
Old 2010-03-01, 6:07am
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Kim - my solution is to keep the top edge and wire out of the salt solution. A lantern battery seems to be a cheap and good solution - be careful with the battery charger, I have burned up several power supplies. Also, if you over etch, you can make holes in the copper - this can be really neat.
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  #76  
Old 2010-03-01, 7:17am
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I am so glad the thread has been revisited. This is very interesting!

Has anyone tried this method with bead cap blanks (like the ones you can get from Ginko)- and how do you attach the wire to them? Do you etch them each seperately?

I have "acid" etchant for copper and bras, but I am interested in etching sterling silver with this method. Just wondering if anyone else has tried sterling bead caps. Thanks, Laura
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  #77  
Old 2010-03-01, 5:54pm
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Default Yeah it works!

I love this copper etching, fun and exciting. We also played with it last night both times was with a battery charger. Tonight we used a very fine point sharpie, and turned the battery charger down. Not sure which made it work better , the sharpie or the battery changer being turned down or both. I really like the way this turned out. Now what should I do with it?
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  #78  
Old 2010-06-15, 11:21pm
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I hope you dont mind me jumping in here but I've been etching with saltwater for about 6 to 8 months now. I do reproduction headbadges for bicycles in brass or copper. After reading through this thread I see a lot of different things being used.
http://www.pulsarprofx.com/PCBfx/mai...cts/index.html
good place to nose around for a different way and much easier way to transfer your image to metal.
Power supplies. I started with two D cell batteries and a battery holder from Radio Shack and some alligator clips. Worked great. I since made one from a old cell phone charger and it works just fine also.
The salt water bath...Ive only used regular table salt one tablespoon to one cup of hot water to dissolve it. Works just fine.
Normal etching for me is about 2 to 4 hours depending on the metal to remove. I also take the piece out every 30 minutes or so and brush off the dark deposits to help reduce etching time.
I know its rather short on long lengthy explanations but I think you can get plenty of that on the web.
But heres a few of my badges Ive done.
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  #79  
Old 2010-06-16, 6:30am
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Hey, thanks JezuzJonz! Great reference and great work!
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  #80  
Old 2010-06-25, 6:06pm
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JezuzJonz, What beautiful work, thanks for the great information I hope you stick around for more posts and share with this wonderful group of people. I am sure your product is wonderful but this thread is not about coming in for self promotion and then just dropping out.
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  #81  
Old 2010-07-18, 4:21am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beadbug View Post
JezuzJonz, What beautiful work, thanks for the great information I hope you stick around for more posts and share with this wonderful group of people. I am sure your product is wonderful but this thread is not about coming in for self promotion and then just dropping out.
I didnt post for any promotion if you spend anytime researching on the web about etching you find out that there is way to much info and what works for one doesnt actually work for another.
I spent many a nights and days with an iron and papers of every type trying to transfer an image and then one day I happened along the web site I posted and thats when things changed and I started making progress to the point I am at now.
Each step of etching is a task in itself that you have to get past before you start progressing. Preping the metal transfering the image, etching cleaning and finishing to handling the waste.
What metals you want to work with to the power source for etching to the containers that you want to etch in. Yes even the container makes a difference on your piece.
But I stopped in because I have a little bit of knowledge from my last year of researching and expermenting and now working in a consumer market. I've completed about 35 or more pieces since May and was mainly trying to pass along some useful information is all.
Terry
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  #82  
Old 2010-07-18, 5:43am
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WOW!

Those are great badges Terry!
You've done a fabulous job, the etching is so clear and defined. Thank you for taking the time to research how it's done well, and for generously sharing that info! That's the wonderful spirit of sharing that many folks on this site are well-loved for.
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  #83  
Old 2010-07-19, 11:26am
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Default Etching

Terry,
I have really appreciated your input. I look forward to trying the salt etching technique.

I saw another etching set up recently that I want to try as well as salt. Whereas before I let my copper soak in the ferric chloride etchant. This technique uses a sponge and sort of scrubs it off. It seemed quite fast. Here's the link: http://www.limed.se/part-2-how-to-ma...ansfer-method/

I also recommend looking at all the related videos. They were great!

Thanks everyone for all the input that educates us crafters.
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  #84  
Old 2010-07-19, 1:21pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullajoyy View Post
Terry,
I have really appreciated your input. I look forward to trying the salt etching technique.

I saw another etching set up recently that I want to try as well as salt. Whereas before I let my copper soak in the ferric chloride etchant. This technique uses a sponge and sort of scrubs it off. It seemed quite fast. Here's the link: http://www.limed.se/part-2-how-to-ma...ansfer-method/

I also recommend looking at all the related videos. They were great!

Thanks everyone for all the input that educates us crafters.
Be careful doing that one its a mess and if you get the slightest hole in your glove (and you wont know till its to late) your fingers are going to look like you smoke 6 packs of cigs a day. I tried that process once...if your going for any kind of a deep etch its not the way to go. With Ferric chloride which I use sometimes its easier and safer much safer to just tape off your piece pour just enough of the ferric to cover the piece lay it face up in the bowl and just light brush over it with either a feather or paint brush about every 10 to 15 minutes. Sometimes I'll just rock the bowl back and forth real slow to clear off the metal thats etching away.
Remember that the people making PCB boards are not etching very deep and most are using a fiberglass backed copper.
Ferric is the safest to me of the acids. The smell is very slight and I've gotten it on my skin and it only turned it yellow even trying to wash it off asap. It does make a nice finish to your piece compared to salt water I just didnt like having the chemicals around. The word salt doesnt scare me as bad as acid...
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  #85  
Old 2010-08-02, 9:33am
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I'm wondering...
if we used the toner transfer paper sherri haab uses, with the etching method from tracy's tutorial, would it work?

link for the etch laser paper: http://www.sherrihaab-shop.com/etchi...ser-paper.html
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  #86  
Old 2010-08-02, 10:13am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LauraLou View Post
I'm wondering...
if we used the toner transfer paper sherri haab uses, with the etching method from tracy's tutorial, would it work?

link for the etch laser paper: http://www.sherrihaab-shop.com/etchi...ser-paper.html
I cant really tell what her paper is. I get 10 sheets from PulsarProFx.com at 14.95 and it comes right off in water after you transfer the image to the metal. No fighting to remove the paper from the toner and metal. Which I have seen on many sites dealing with etching is always a problem. When I use my transfer paper I print the image once through my laser printer on regular paper then I cut a piece of transfer paper about 1/2 bigger all around and tape it over the image I just printed then feed it back through the printer and print the image again. Saves on waste and I only use what I need when I need it.
But I do about the same method as Tracys I just dont use a bubbler or any special salt or water and it works just fine.
Terry
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  #87  
Old 2010-08-02, 10:23am
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Thanks all who have posted here..... I really appreciate the different approaches and link!

Terry, your bike head badges sent me on a little nostalgia trip about my first bicycle, an old green fat-tire Huffy from the 1950's. I bought it with my allowance of about 50 cents a week, took forever to save up 8 dollars, and my Dad relented and pitched in the rest! I think we paid $18 dollars for that bike, it was already well used when I got it.

Jo
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  #88  
Old 2010-08-02, 3:40pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jezusjonz View Post
I cant really tell what her paper is. I get 10 sheets from PulsarProFx.com at 14.95 and it comes right off in water after you transfer the image to the metal. No fighting to remove the paper from the toner and metal. Which I have seen on many sites dealing with etching is always a problem. When I use my transfer paper I print the image once through my laser printer on regular paper then I cut a piece of transfer paper about 1/2 bigger all around and tape it over the image I just printed then feed it back through the printer and print the image again. Saves on waste and I only use what I need when I need it.
But I do about the same method as Tracys I just dont use a bubbler or any special salt or water and it works just fine.
Terry
Thanks Terry! If I took the time to read all the posts I wouldn't have had to ask the question. thanks for the info, your etchings are beautiful, by the way!
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  #89  
Old 2010-08-06, 10:17am
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I wanted to try/learn the technique of etching on metal, but I'm kind of skeered of electricity so I was looking into using the chemicals.

Ugh... I think I'm more afraid of the chemicals than I am of eletricity.

So... I'm going to re-read this thread (for the third time) and try this battery-salt method (hopefully this weekend).

Just wanted to thank everyone for all the helpful info.
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  #90  
Old 2010-08-09, 8:16am
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This is a pretty cool tutorial. Thank you Tracy for sharing it. We had a rainy day all day long so I decided it was my "Mad Scientist Sunday". It was kind of scary, playing around with electricity and all and fun too when I finally could see it was working.

I fooled around with it all day without much luck. We finally figured out it was because I had the polarity wrong! Tracy had asked this question in the original post: If someone can help a girl out is the side that bubbles the positive or negative side?

The side with the bubbler is the negative side. Once everything was set up properly it worked like a charm!!!!!
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