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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #1  
Old 2009-11-05, 6:40am
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Angry WTF! Since when is green red?

I'm making christmas trees and layer a few shades of green over each other. I'm starting with 611131 English Ivy. A transparent green in rod form. When the trees come out of the kiln the green is now RED!!!! A brick red. Whoever heard of a red Christmas tree?

Please, someone tell me what a good transparent green that STAYS green is. I need to get some right quick!
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  #2  
Old 2009-11-05, 7:00am
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Is the green Asian Color? The green will liver if overheated or left in the kiln too long.
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  #3  
Old 2009-11-05, 7:01am
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I like GA's Paris 6.

You may be getting red because you're using a reducing flame. Try adding oxygen and working with an oxygen-rich flame.
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  #4  
Old 2009-11-05, 7:07am
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I don't think it's asian. And I'm using my O2 opened up almost the whole way. I only have very small orange points on my flame. It soes take an hour or so to make the trees.
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  #5  
Old 2009-11-05, 7:08am
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Nancy, I'm guessing that you're newish to boro... the most useful thing anyone ever told me was that you can't go wrong shaping boro in an oxygenated flame and then using a reducing flame at the end if that will get you the results you want. In a lot of cases, it won't, and you'll be using an oxy or neutral flame. There is information on the GA and Northstar websites about flame characteristics and how to work the colors in them.

Sorry; wrote that before I saw your last post. I'm not sure what to do then... What kind of torch are you using?
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Last edited by AuntD; 2009-11-05 at 7:11am.
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  #6  
Old 2009-11-05, 7:39am
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The red is from the copper in the green. I know that you mentioned that you have you O2 way up...my guess is that there is an O2 purity issue. I you probably already know that reduction flames will bring metals to the surface.

I second AuntD's suggestion. Most of the Paris Greens are easy to work with.

I would get a rod of Amazon Night or the like and use the same flame. If it goes to a opaque blue or any other color than it's original gloss black look...than your flame is not what it appears to be.
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Last edited by SleepyCreekGlass; 2009-11-05 at 7:41am.
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  #7  
Old 2009-11-05, 7:48am
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there are a few greens which will turn terracotta, so here is my angle ... I would buy some of the chinese green boro. I've never had it discolour on me. You need to be a little bit more gentle on it (ie avoid working it, putting it aside and letting it cool and then working on it again), if you need to put it aside, always garage it. It's also fairly saturated, nice and transparent the colour is even throughout and dirt cheap to boot. You can also work it pretty hot.
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Last edited by wickedglass; 2009-11-05 at 7:50am.
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  #8  
Old 2009-11-05, 7:57am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by playswithfire104 View Post
I'm making christmas trees and layer a few shades of green over each other. I'm starting with 611131 English Ivy. A transparent green in rod form. When the trees come out of the kiln the green is now RED!!!! A brick red. Whoever heard of a red Christmas tree?

Please, someone tell me what a good transparent green that STAYS green is. I need to get some right quick!
NS-131 English Ivy produces metallic blues and sea greens. When reduced, this color can yield earthy reds and browns. We recommend using an oxidizing flame to achieve the most vivid color. Because it is more saturated than NS-13 Amber Purple and NS-03 Multi it will react much more quickly to the particular chemistry of the flame so be careful not to over reduce.
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  #9  
Old 2009-11-05, 8:10am
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English Ivy. . .


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  #10  
Old 2009-11-05, 8:46am
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Paris 6 or Kryptonite if you want a lighter color.
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  #11  
Old 2009-11-05, 9:39am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogsrlove View Post
English Ivy. . .


Vanessa

That looks nothing like what I'm getting.
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  #12  
Old 2009-11-05, 3:17pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogsrlove View Post
English Ivy. . .


Vanessa
Thats English Ivy over white correct?
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  #13  
Old 2009-11-05, 4:04pm
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It sure is! I made a second pendant out of it, just in case it was a "fluke". All I can tell you about it was English Ivy over Egyptian White, then "flame strike" the top portion to get the yummy purple/blues.


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  #14  
Old 2009-11-05, 6:49pm
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Green's that do not reduce are opaque, all trans greens will reduce red.
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  #15  
Old 2009-11-05, 8:22pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWCGlass View Post
Green's that do not reduce are opaque, all trans greens will reduce red.


Well that sux! Big time!

Some of my trees have turned out just fine. But I used unmarked shorts so I've no clue what ther were. I'm gonna give the Paris green a shot.
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  #16  
Old 2009-11-05, 9:33pm
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Red - Green - what's the difference?

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  #17  
Old 2009-11-06, 8:41am
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Yeah - English Ivy is a form of Amber Purple. A very saturated amber purple. It's a really cool color but WYSIWYG? Far from it.
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  #18  
Old 2009-11-10, 11:14pm
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Playswithfire...like someone else said you prob have a oxygen purity issue. Are you using tanked oxy or oxy con's? Oxy con's tend to have lower oxygen purity which will give you a false sense of flame type. It may look oxidized but its really not.

The fact is that you are simply reducing the color(too much propane). English ivy is a great color and if used right could yield some great greens.

P.s. check your pressures at your regulators. maybe your propane is too high.
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  #19  
Old 2009-11-12, 9:46pm
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this is taken from the NS manual

A good litmus test in learning to dial in these flames (oxy,neutral,reduce) is by working a piece of NS-27 Green Exotic. Start by dialing an oxidizing flame in, then place the rod in the flame and gather a small glob of glass. Take it out of the flame and inspect the color. If the rod is still black this indicates that the flame is oxidizing enough. Second, dial in a soft reducing flame and work the rod. A metallic sheen should rapidly develop. If this metal deposit occurs when the oxidizing flame was dialed in, this indicates that there was not a sufficient amount of oxygen present. For those just starting out with borosilicate, this is an excellent exercise to practice and get comfortable with the flame.
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