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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2013-03-16, 12:28pm
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julieann1674 julieann1674 is offline
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Default Encasing & Puckered end Help

Hi Everyone,

I have been encasing a lot of round beads, using a brass shaper and a stainless steel poker with a half rounded head (from Corina's poker set) to move glass towards the mandrel. Mainly I try to use as much gravity as possible to move the glass to get a puckered hole.

My problem now is that sometimes, I may make one wrong move and a tiny bit of glass may hit the mandrel around the hole. Is there any way back?? Am I doomed??? I haven't been able to find a way to fix my problem. If I add more glass to compensate that seems to make matters worse.

Ugh, it's tough when you all know you can spend an hour or more on a bead and then are on your final encasing.... and BAM, I seem to be screwing it up!

Any thoughts?
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  #2  
Old 2013-03-16, 7:13pm
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I know this isn't the answer you want but I just use those beads to go into pendants with a nice beadcap on top. Then the hole is concealed.
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  #3  
Old 2013-03-16, 7:30pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gemsinbloom View Post
I know this isn't the answer you want but I just use those beads to go into pendants with a nice beadcap on top. Then the hole is concealed.
Ah, hah! Good solution so it's not a total loss. Thanks! There is no such thing as a perfect bead, right? Lol.
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  #4  
Old 2013-03-16, 9:25pm
nikki2kats nikki2kats is offline
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Julie, if you are almost done with the encasing and it is just the tiniest touch of glass I have had luck with cooling the bead a little then using a tight flame to heat just the bit of glass that went too high on the mandrel and plucking it off with a fine pointed tweezer. It is about a 50:50 proposition whether I can pull it off and smooth with the flame as if it never happened or make it worse in which case I keep the bead for me and do what Jacqueline suggested.

Nikki
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  #5  
Old 2013-03-17, 5:09am
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While pushing the glass towards the hole is fine you really have to rely more on the heat. You use the poker to get it part way there then concentrate the heat on the ends to pull the glass into position, that way you'll get nice puckered ends.
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  #6  
Old 2013-03-17, 6:19am
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Thank you so much everyone! More practice with Patience as well. I appreciate so much the help.
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Old 2013-03-18, 7:07am
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Do your beads start off more "round" versus "donut"? If you start off slightly more on the donut shape and head towards more round using heat and gravity, you'll end up with nice puckers without trying to force them. Just sort of heat the glass on one-half of the bead and tilt the mandrel down on that side, then heat and tilt for the other side... and your donut will sort of transition to round and have the nice puckers too.

I hope that made sense...
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  #8  
Old 2013-03-18, 7:22am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MistyCherie View Post
Do your beads start off more "round" versus "donut"? If you start off slightly more on the donut shape and head towards more round using heat and gravity, you'll end up with nice puckers without trying to force them. Just sort of heat the glass on one-half of the bead and tilt the mandrel down on that side, then heat and tilt for the other side... and your donut will sort of transition to round and have the nice puckers too.

I hope that made sense...
hmmm, yes this is making sense to me. I am usually going donut to round. I think now, I am sometimes forcing the glass too much into my round shaper. Like you said, I need to work more with heat and gravity. Will practice and be patient today and see how it goes. Thank you so much!!
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  #9  
Old 2013-03-18, 8:20am
Nolly Nolly is offline
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I've fooled around with making very thin donuts or disks of my encasement color and filling between them with the base color. I was getting bugged by not being able to get ink blue all the way over the white base.

It's another way to tackle the problem.

Nolly
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encasing, puckered ends, round beads


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