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The Dark Room -- Photo Editing and Picture Taking. Advice, tutorials, questions on all things photoshop, photo editing, and taking pictures of beads or glass.

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  #1  
Old 2012-06-27, 4:55pm
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chrisann chrisann is offline
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Default camera settings for lgt box

So just started to try and take some photos, it has been a while and I got a new lens. would anyone like to give their opinion on which setting out of the camera they prefer? These are just off the camera no adjustments they are taken in a lightbox camera on a tripod using a timer
the first 2 are f16_.5sec f16_.6sec respectively
the next 2 are f20_.5sec f20_.6sec respectively
they were cropped and sized to 400x400 nothing done in photoshop yet (cause that is another scarey thing) if anyone wants to grab and tweek and tell me what they did that would be appreciated as well. thanx


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Old 2012-06-27, 8:54pm
Alaska Alaska is offline
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One possible output using PS.



For best results shoot in RAW and then process and save as a PNG.

Taking an existing small JPEG image and processing limits what can be done as much of the data has been lost.
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Old 2012-06-27, 9:09pm
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I'm not sure how to process in RAW. I will try and figure it out thank
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Old 2012-06-27, 9:57pm
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Some cameras will not save the image in RAW. Thus you are stuck with jpeg. It all depends on the camera.

It is best to use a image file format that is lossless if possible. i.e. one that process the image and does not throw away any data.

However, one can still use jpeg and process in PS with good results. Just start with as large as an image as the camera will permit. i.e. the largest number of pixels or file size.

Some might call it large/fine vs small/normal, etc.
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Old 2012-06-28, 1:37am
Role Role is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisann View Post
nothing done in photoshop yet (cause that is another scarey thing)
Here is a photoshop image processing tutorial, for images of a pendant,
that may be helpful.

Photoshop tutorial
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Old 2012-06-28, 9:02am
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Thanks Role, will check it out.
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Old 2012-06-28, 4:59pm
Mike Jordan Mike Jordan is offline
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Raw is good if you have poor lighting, mixed lighting, high contrast (deep shadows and bright highlights) or plan on doing a lot of manipulation to the image. When you have control of the lighting and exposure and don't plan on doing more than have a very good quality image to post on the web or print off, you can do just as well with going with the best quality jpeg the camera will do. You can still do a lot of correction with a high quality jpeg image, including color correction and shadow and highlight manipulation. And though you will lose some information every time you save and open a jpeg, you have to open and save the same image a of times before you will notice the difference. You can also take the jpeg image out of your camera and save it as a tif image to do any manipulation, saving the original jpeg as your non-touched master image.

I shoot everything in raw, but I do that because my work flow is set up to work with raw and when I was shooting a lot I didn't want to have to jump back and forth between different work flows. Shooting raw does have a lot of requirements that most people don't talk about... it requires a lot of disk space if you shoot a lot and save multiple copies of your images. I was running over 4 terabytes of disk space just for images back when it was not cheap to buy terabytes (it's gotten real cheap today per terabyte) and I rapidly out grew all means of keeping backups except to have multiple hard drives to keep backups. Raw also requires more powerful computers to process the images, other wise you are going to be running real slow and could run out of ram when loading your images. It does have a steeper learning curve to be able to take advantage of a raw image... and if you just go with the automated processes with raw, you have wasted all of the money that the better software costs to be able to handle a raw workflow. And in most cases the person's skill level is going to be at the jpeg level anyway.

On the images above, I assume that is suppose to be the white floor of the light tent. If so, they are either under exposed or you compensated in your editing program to reduce the brightness of the glass. The top left and bottom right are the best as shown, but with a little manipulation all 4 can look good. One thing you need to do is apply some sharpening to them. Almost all images require sharping out of the camera. The consumer point and shoots usually don't need much because the camera makers have already cranked up sharpening in the camera because they know all digital images need sharpening. It can be done better in the computer though since even a old computer is going to have more computing power than the camera. It looks like you did real good with your focus on the tripod, so try adding various amounts of sharpening to the images and they will sharpen up real nicely. Also, because of the way digital works, it's not recommended to go smaller than f16 depending on the lens you use. When you go smaller than f16 it starts introducing distortion in the image that for most people they probably wouldn't notice. It also brings out any sensor dust you might have so it is more noticeable. On your images, at f16 you can't see the dust along the top right area but at f22 you can see it. If your camera has a fixed lens or is fairly new, you probably don't have very much yet, but dust manages to get in over time.

I think you are doing pretty good and the more you practice like this, the better you are going to get and the better your images will be.

Mike
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Old 2012-06-28, 8:22pm
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Thanks Mike, I will keep playing with the settings. Those pics weren't on a white background they are on a frosted plexiglass that was sitting on a pc of dark paper so it is grayish. Those images have not been edited at all, just cropped and sized for LE. One thing I was wondering , is it better to shoot in manual or one of the priority modes? I'm pretty sure I will stick to the high res jpeg. If I try to add the learning curve for RAW on top of learning how to take and basic edit a pic my brain will explode.
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Old 2012-06-28, 10:01pm
Mike Jordan Mike Jordan is offline
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It depends on weather to shoot in manual or not. When I'm shooting table top or still life stuff, I shoot in manual because I have a light meter and full studio lights. I'll take flash readings with my meter and set my camera based on the readings. If I'm shooting with existing light then depending on what I'm shooting I'll either shoot in Program mode, Tv mode or Av mode. Unless the light is tricky or I'm trying for some artsy kind of thing, I'm using in Program mode. I almost always meter in spot meter mode too.

If you take a roll of duck tape and wrap 4 or 5 times around your head, you can increase your ability to learn more. The duck tape helps to keep your head from exploding.

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Old 2012-06-29, 5:46am
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If you take a roll of duck tape and wrap 4 or 5 times around your head, you can increase your ability to learn more. The duck tape helps to keep your head from exploding.

Mike
Yeah, but the sticky shit is hell to get out of your hair
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