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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #31  
Old 2010-06-16, 7:48am
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thanks.... I would love to expand my colors, but was thinking of starting first on other coe 104 stuff, but who knows...
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  #32  
Old 2010-06-16, 8:27am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrissij View Post
Aleta, those are light & dark aurora, all by themselves.
encased, I think.
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  #33  
Old 2010-06-16, 8:27am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJJames View Post
Pia, the COE is 90 and the annealing temp is 960 - 970. Now that is on the production colors. Remember, I am still new to this glass too. As I have been researching there are some odd lot colors such as the auroras which you want to anneal at around 930ish. Squid is the expert on that. Do an advanced search with bullseye and choose the tips, techniques and questions forum. You will come up with a lot of info. You will see some of the most beautiful work too.
You can anneal all of your glass in the 930 range - I do. Including 104 and 96.
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  #34  
Old 2010-06-16, 8:48am
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Nice advice Lynda,

I have used bullseye from the beginning and love it. I collected Morretti and never use it.

For the white French vanilla is my favorite. It is the only white that is actually opaque. I seem to use mostly opaque glass

When making black and white beads I normally use the deep royal purple for the base black. Using black or stiff black....I haven't figured and much difference with these two, for upper layer dots and stringer work. I find the first heating goes fine. It is when you reheat the blacks that they bleed.

Mixing the mint green with dichroic glass (mixed with clear) can give you a nice opal, like the stone, effect.

Send me your email address and I will send you a blank color chart I created. Print it on card stock and glue your color samples on it. From the "Torch Tips", Bullseye has, I lifted the glass ingredients and the what they react to and put it on the chart for easy reference.
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  #35  
Old 2010-06-16, 9:06am
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Pia - Listen to Squid
Michelle - Printed out your info too. I love your beads. Did I type love..LOVE. In fact one of the test beads I did with BE was a Bousky bead LOL. Not quite on par, but I did my best. I'm pretty tickled with it. In fact, one of the things that sold me on BE. I found the glass isn't as soupy as 104. Stays in place better. I sent you a PM with my email addy. Thank you!!!
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  #36  
Old 2010-06-16, 9:12am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squid View Post
You can anneal all of your glass in the 930 range - I do. Including 104 and 96.
unless you are mixing COE's like Reichenbach frits on 104 or 90. I have had NO success with compatability with a lower annealing cycle. Some beads too > 6 mo to crack.

I use 970 generally unless I'm using silver glass.
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  #37  
Old 2010-06-16, 9:14am
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Karen, one more thing, with bullseye, make sure that you give very good re-heat/insurance heat, especially before it goes into the kiln. It loses temperature more quickly than 104.
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  #38  
Old 2010-06-16, 9:24am
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I tend to anneal in the 960 range because I am working in my basement, "The Glass Cave" as we like to call it here, and it is cooler down there.

Great to know Lynda! Thank you. I know I would have had issues and wondered why due to the above mentioned issue coupled with not following the tip you just provided. Just added to my notes. Thank you!!!
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  #39  
Old 2010-06-16, 9:31am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LyndaJ View Post
unless you are mixing COE's like Reichenbach frits on 104 or 90. I have had NO success with compatability with a lower annealing cycle. Some beads too > 6 mo to crack.

I use 970 generally unless I'm using silver glass.
I could see where those might be problematic. I have some uroboros glass for use with my frits - I don't mix COEs any more.
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  #40  
Old 2010-06-16, 9:33am
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My experience of using opalescents as the base of a bead results in more thermal cracking.
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  #41  
Old 2010-06-16, 9:58am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bousky View Post

Mixing the mint green with dichroic glass (mixed with clear) can give you a nice opal, like the stone, effect.
Oooo....sounds cool!! Must try it.

Lynda, you should get a job with BE! You are so knowledgable, and a good note taker. Very important to be a good not taker! (somthing I am lacking of)

I will bring up the frits again... BE jars are THE BOMB!! Just can't stop at color choices, kind of like potato chips... can't have just one favorite
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  #42  
Old 2010-06-16, 10:01am
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Lynda, I agree with Cinta, Bullseye should pay you to monitor the boards and represent them. You really are good!
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  #43  
Old 2010-06-16, 10:03am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJJames View Post
Pia - Listen to Squid
Michelle - Printed out your info too. I love your beads. Did I type love..LOVE. In fact one of the test beads I did with BE was a Bousky bead LOL. Not quite on par, but I did my best. I'm pretty tickled with it. In fact, one of the things that sold me on BE. I found the glass isn't as soupy as 104. Stays in place better. I sent you a PM with my email addy. Thank you!!!
Thank you! Post your results!
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  #44  
Old 2010-06-16, 10:32am
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Hi Aleta, The top picture is made with Bullseye Aurora(transparent light blue rod) and the bottom picture is Bullseye Aurora Dark(transparent olive brown rod). Both are beautiful glass and are quite easy to strike. I know FlameKissed Glass has the dark version and FlameDame I think has both varieties in stock.



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  #45  
Old 2010-06-16, 10:48am
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A few months ago there was some talk about Bullseye changing their annealing schedules, but I wasn't sure if it was just for fusing (since that's what they do the most) or if it included lampwork...so I sent an email and this is the response from Bullseye:

Hi Bonnie- For annealing of beads, the same annealing schedule you have been using at 960 is still just fine. Iím not sure that Tip Sheet 2 had an accurate annealing schedule for lampworking, but here is some instruction from our torchworking teacher Bonnie Celeste.

Program kiln to hold at 960 for at least an hour longer than the beadmaking session. The idea here is to give that last bead a soak time of an hour at 960. Next ramp to 500 degrees at the rate of 100 degrees per hour. Then let the kiln cool to room temperature at its own insulated rate, which could also be programmed in, but the kiln is essentially off at that point.

It's OK to turn the kiln off for a minute to reprogram it if you need to adjust the hold time as long as it is started right back up again.

AFAP stands for As Fast As Possible. Depending on your kiln, the command may be 9999 or "Full" (full power) or maybe something else.

rate temp hold
AFAP 960 x (possible beadmaking time + 1 hour)
100 500 :01
AFAP 70 :01

Here's another approach, using the same schedule, if the controller has a "skip segment" feature.

Program the kiln to hold at 960 and enter a really long hold time (say 12 hours or something like that). Then program a 2nd hold at 960 for one hour, ramp 100 degrees per hour to 500, then off (or ramp as fast as possible to room temperature - which is the same thing). The idea here is that once the last bead goes in, whether it's after two hours of beadmaking or ten hours of beadmaking, then the "skip segment" feature would be employed to move the kiln to the 2nd hold at 960 (for an hour) and then the rest of the schedule.


rate temp hold
AFAP 960 12:00
AFAP 960 1:00
100 500 :01
AFAP 70 :01

I hope this helps- thank you!

Susan

Susan Green
Sales Supervisor
Bullseye Glass Co
3722 SE 21st Ave
Portland OR 97202
888-220-3002
www.bullseyeglass.com
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  #46  
Old 2010-06-16, 10:52am
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As I get time, I'll go back through old pictures and post them in my album here.
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  #47  
Old 2010-06-16, 12:19pm
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Ofilia - I have some frits on my list that I plan to purchase. I think that is a brilliant way to add color.
Michelle - I will take a pic an post it, but remember I told you up front it wasn't as good as yours. I just followed the directions as best as possible.
Lynda - First, I'd nominate you as a BE rep if it came to it! Second, I could probably add your photos to your album right now for you! I created a BE folder while searching and added all of the BE threads to it that I found most helpful. So many of them included photos of your beads. And so many of the threads had great links to other threads....my printer is going to be on overdrive soon.
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  #48  
Old 2010-06-16, 4:45pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlassMigrations View Post


I swear I never get these colors on any of my Aurora mostly too dark to see the colors. Why is that?
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  #49  
Old 2010-06-16, 7:44pm
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I've started to posting albums - click on my public profile to see them. There's a jewelry one and one started for Bullseye. Many of my pictures must be on our old computer. I'll have to get those later.

If you open the picture, the glass used and conditions are usually the title.
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  #50  
Old 2010-06-16, 8:42pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gubnavnania View Post
I swear I never get these colors on any of my Aurora mostly too dark to see the colors. Why is that?
the longer you continue to strike it, the lighter it gets - and it lightens when encased.
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  #51  
Old 2010-06-16, 8:42pm
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Lynda is THE Bullseye brain!!!
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  #52  
Old 2010-06-16, 8:56pm
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Lynda, OMG your beads are FABulous! Thanks for sharing!

Kris
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  #53  
Old 2010-06-16, 8:58pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squid View Post
the longer you continue to strike it, the lighter it gets - and it lightens when encased.
Thanks Squid. I'll give a try. I do encased the aurora.
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  #54  
Old 2010-06-16, 9:00pm
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Bullseye says to use the crystal clear when you encase the aurora.
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  #55  
Old 2010-06-16, 9:02pm
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Karen,
I recommend Reenie for Bullseye, too. Great service!
Kris
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  #56  
Old 2010-06-16, 9:13pm
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Thanks Kris

Lynda, just looked at your album. Drooling over the beads but your jewelry is just fabulous!!!!!
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  #57  
Old 2010-06-16, 9:19pm
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Quote:
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Bullseye says to use the crystal clear when you encase the aurora.
I'm using schott on BE. Do you think that's the problem?
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  #58  
Old 2010-06-16, 9:20pm
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I use Schott - no problems.
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  #59  
Old 2010-06-16, 9:50pm
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Like squid said. I've never used Schott but the rep told me that bullseye crystal clear seems to react to the dark aurora better then the regular clear.
I've used it and liked it but I liked the clear too so go figure lol
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  #60  
Old 2010-06-16, 10:08pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gubnavnania View Post
I swear I never get these colors on any of my Aurora mostly too dark to see the colors. Why is that?
What squid said... Also, if I remember correctly, to get the blues, purples and pinks, both aurora's need more of a striking/oxidized flame. The more you strike, cool, strike, and so on, the more color. When I introduced more propane gas to the flame(reducing), I got more yellow and brown effects, which I didn't like. I also used the Bullseye crystal clear when encasing.

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