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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2016-04-27, 11:55pm
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Default Color Saturated Glass

I have for many, many years seen pictures of glass beads with incredible, bright, super-saturated colors. Not silver glass, Double Helix or StrikingColor types of colors, but regular colors that simply have a greater intensity than any I've seen in the Effetre or CIM glasses I typically use.

Could they be 96 or 90coe glass? I've asked once or twice, but I think "soft glass" was the most I got. Then again, maybe the photos have been tinkered with?


Aimee
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  #2  
Old 2016-04-28, 12:08am
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Lighting can make a world of difference.
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Old 2016-04-28, 12:10am
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Some pics would be good. I might suspect 96 or Czech glass also, but it is true that the type of photo counts.
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  #4  
Old 2016-04-28, 12:19am
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Frankly, I don't want to post pictures or links because I have a feeling it's all just lighting or the photos have been "adjusted". I'd hate to be accused of calling someone out!


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  #5  
Old 2016-04-28, 12:59am
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I love to play with saturation with my beads. Just for pictures. It's really obvious that I've saturated them to the Nth degree. I don't try to sell them using these saturated pics, I just post them on IG for fun. I just like the way they look. Yes, you are probably seeing some editing.
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  #6  
Old 2016-04-28, 8:02am
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Hi Aimee - Corina recently did a wonderful write-up on using super saturated COE 96 colors. Very informative with some excellent pictures.

http://www.corinabeads.com/pages/purpleandpink.php
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  #7  
Old 2016-04-28, 8:35am
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It's my understanding that 96 is saturated. Hence why most Frits are 96. But some people do edit.

However....
I would have sworn sideways that Anouk (Troll Lover) used exceptionally nice lighting in her bead photography and tutorials. That is, until I saw her beads under normal lighting in a normal basement studio. That colors were true. Mouth dropping true, she's a genius at silver glass manipulation. So if they're super bright and you want to know why, ASK! Compliment their work and politely ask how they succeeded in getting their colors to pop because yours is slightly duller, etc., or whatever other experience you had. Ask if that's natural light or studio lighting.

Keep in mind, studio and natural lighting may not make a huge difference. Joy Munshower has the bead photography guy take all of her professional photos (Dave Baldwin I think) and they are bright, but again her colors are true on the sales floor. You see the same bead.

I discovered one of my favorite color combinations by asking the artist. It was R-mustard frit on R-Iris orange etched.

I have noticed, like Corina's pink purple write up, cores make a difference. Even when you think it's an opaque, it can make a subtle difference. The CIM moonstone translucents love a white heart. Encasing opaque with same tint transparent is also another method.

Last edited by SGA; 2016-04-28 at 8:48am.
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  #8  
Old 2016-04-28, 11:08am
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Thank you for your input!

Patty, that post by Corina is very interesting! I have a feeling the European beadmakers I have been seeing are using 96 glass! I've asked, but the one who answered just said she used soft glass. Probably because she mixed brands - since Corina shows it is possible!

Shardi, you are correct about core colors making a difference! But sometimes it goes way beyond that. More experimentation is obviously in order!


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  #9  
Old 2016-04-28, 5:01pm
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I was appalled when I got my first 96 transparents - bunch of super dark black looking rods! I don't really want to mix coe's, so I use them with other 96 colors to layer them. I really love the 96 color palette.
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  #10  
Old 2016-04-29, 6:39pm
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I work mostly in 96 for the saturated colors and because it's a tiny bit stiffer.

Some days all I do is build blended rods of those 'black' colors into fabulous purples, blues, etc.
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  #11  
Old 2016-04-29, 6:50pm
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I loved that link to Corina's page.


I think I found another hole in the universe for at least $1000 that I need to fill.
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  #12  
Old 2016-04-29, 8:57pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5betsy View Post
I work mostly in 96 for the saturated colors and because it's a tiny bit stiffer.
That's interesting. I find the 96 furnace color opaques to be much less still than 104, in fact, some are almost soupy and hard for me to control. (This is not true of System 96, that is a bit stiffer.)

I haven't worked a lot with the transparents because they are so dark, but they are great for blowing into shards that can be used on 104, following the 20% rule.
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"And all will turn to silver glass, a light on the water, grey ships pass into the west." Annie Lennox
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  #13  
Old 2016-04-30, 6:03am
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And now I'm going to go pull out some of my 96, that I bought and have been eyeing from a distance, and make some white core cane with a couple of the transparents I actually bought with that in mind a while back!
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  #14  
Old 2016-04-30, 10:25am
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Well, the only 96 I have is frit - so I tried making cased cane by rolling a light colored rod in the frit. I got streaky cane! Not bad color, good for florals - but not the rich colors I was hoping for.

Back to the drawing board!


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  #15  
Old 2016-04-30, 11:27am
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Oh boo, I was going to try that too, Aimee. I might make murrine with the frit, though.
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Old 2016-04-30, 11:28am
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Well I forgot why I went out & ended up making some BOC beads, LOL. Maybe I will try again tomorrow.
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  #17  
Old 2016-04-30, 11:45am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJohn View Post
Oh boo, I was going to try that too, Aimee. I might make murrine with the frit, though.
They don't look bad as flowers:



(Sorry - crappy phone pic!)


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  #18  
Old 2016-04-30, 12:06pm
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Nice Aimee.
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  #19  
Old 2016-04-30, 4:04pm
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Thanks Phill.

I do think the streakiness that results from using frit works well for the flower petals. I have leftover cane that I will continue to use for this, and I may try some other colors too.


Aimee
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Old 2016-04-30, 7:10pm
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I can see what seems like more saturation in the flower colors.

I may have to "invest" in some of the 96coe colors.

This may be the beginning of my path toward boro as I understand the color available in boro are a different thing altogether.
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  #21  
Old 2016-04-30, 7:54pm
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That is a nice blue there, Aimee. I use the frit for flower canes too. That is why I have some. I got the tut for making murrine with frit, so I was thinking of that
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  #22  
Old 2016-04-30, 8:18pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJohn View Post
I got the tut for making murrine with frit, so I was thinking of that
Who's tutorial is that? Is it complicated? It sounds interesting.


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Old 2016-05-01, 9:45am
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Rachel Childers, ROCsdesigns. Here is the link for her shop. https://www.etsy.com/shop/ROCsDesign...hopheader-name
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  #24  
Old 2016-05-01, 10:50am
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Thanks!


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Old 2016-05-05, 1:51am
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Ooooh, I will be buying some 96! Thanks for sharing the article, Patty. And great question, Aimee. I seriously thought they were just altered pics that you were talking about.
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Old 2016-05-05, 3:58am
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There is another thread here somewhere with some awesome pictures of 96 beads. It made me start my stash!

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=25079
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  #27  
Old 2016-05-05, 9:27am
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http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ghlight=Gaffer
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  #28  
Old 2016-05-07, 6:20am
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I made these many years ago using Reichenbach transparent over effetre white pulled into stringers, layered over white.

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  #29  
Old 2016-05-07, 10:44am
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Beautiful Debbie!

I am now convinced that most of the pictures I have seen with super-saturated colors must have been 96 glass. And when I can afford to, I am definitely going to invest in some!

Just what I need, another coe!


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  #30  
Old 2016-05-07, 11:35am
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A little goes a LONG way. You just about only need 1 rod of each color you like. You have to pull them in to stringers & they're still saturated.

Quote:
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Beautiful Debbie!

I am now convinced that most of the pictures I have seen with super-saturated colors must have been 96 glass. And when I can afford to, I am definitely going to invest in some!

Just what I need, another coe!


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