Lampwork Etc.
 
Mountain Glass Arts

LE Live Chat

Enter Live Chat

No users in chat




Caber Light


 

Go Back   Lampwork Etc. > Library > Safety

Safety -- Make sure you are safe!

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #31  
Old 2005-07-27, 7:46am
Curly Irish Girl's Avatar
Curly Irish Girl Curly Irish Girl is offline
Irish Eyes A Smiling
 
Join Date: Jun 11, 2005
Location: Menomonie, WI
Posts: 1,627
Default

I have a small studio 10x16 that we added to our home. I keep my LP tank outside on a small deck - my DH built a little "outhouse" for the tank (complete with siding & shingles....the man is obsessed!). One side has the slide the tank in/out and I keep a sort of window shade of vinyl wallpaper over that area in the summer. Seems that I get the breathing flame problem when the sun hits the tank directly in hot temps.
__________________
Lynn


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old 2005-07-27, 8:50am
Dale M.'s Avatar
Dale M. Dale M. is offline
Gentleman of Leisure
 
Join Date: Jun 10, 2005
Location: A Little Bit West of Yosemite Valley
Posts: 5,200
Default

Drag tank out of enclosure and turn garden sprinkler on it... It will cool it over time (several hours) and it will settle down... Maybe drape WET blanket over it and keep it wet with sprinkler. Evaporation will cool tank.

Dale
__________________
You can lead a person to knowledge, but you can't make them think.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Vendor-Artist-Studio-Teacher Registry

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
San Francisco - A Few Toys Short of a Happy Meal
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old 2005-08-04, 11:47am
debkauz's Avatar
debkauz debkauz is offline
Covered in glitter
 
Join Date: Jun 16, 2005
Posts: 15,680
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeAurelius
However, putting a pipe through the wall is not really that big of a deal. Takes a 1/2" drill, some caulk to fill in around the hole and pipe, and some fittings, plus shut off's on each side of the wall. Installing a pipe through the wall should not cost any more than about $50 and most of that expense is going to be the shut off valves.


OK I'm just not getting it. NOt the first time...you put a pipe in the wall. Do you do one for propane and one for O2? Then you connect your outside hoses to the pipes and also connect hoses inside to the pipe from the inside? It's not to run the outside hoses through to the inside, right?
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 2005-08-04, 1:08pm
MikeAurelius's Avatar
MikeAurelius MikeAurelius is offline
Safety ALWAYS
 
Join Date: Jun 10, 2005
Location: Sauk Rapids, Minnesota
Posts: 2,401
Default

Ummmmmm....

Ok, yeah. I see where your confusion might be.

Let's talk about the propane first. When propane is run through a wall penetration (I just love that word!), it must be encased in a solid metallic tube, not a rubber one.

Here's the outline of how the fire code wants to see the work done:

Propane tank - flows directly into regulator that is mounted in the screw fitting on the propane tank.

From the low pressure side of the regulator, mount a flexible metallic pipe (similiar to what is used for gas clothes dryers), and run this flex pipe to a shut off valve.

The shut off valve is mounted on black pipe, which runs through the wall.

We are now inside the building.

On the wall side of the black pipe, mount another shut off valve.

From the shut off valve, run any type of metallic piping, such as soft wall copper, to a "distribution point".

At the "distribution point" there is another shut off valve, which then connects to "T" grade hose for direct distribution to the torch or torches.

If you want to keep your oxygen outside, a similar type of process can be done for the oxygen line. There is no maximum pressure requirement for oxygen, so you can run as much O2 through this separate line as you need to.

Don't put PVC pipe through the wall and then run rubber hose through it. This is a violation of fire code.

When I mention black pipe above, it doesn't have to be black pipe, it can be any hard wall, non-flexible type of pipe, such as stainless, galvanized, heavy wall copper.

On the inside of the building, plumbing from the first inside shut off valve to the "distribution point", the piping can be anything metallic, from soft wall copper to black pipe, to stainless or galvanized. Most of the time, soft wall copper is used because it can easily be bent (use a bending spring) to conform to walls, corners and other obstructions.

All joints must be either threaded or flare fittings. Do not use compression type fittings. If you use threaded fittings, be sure to use teflon tape or gas approved pipe sealant.

On the inside of the building, if the main run from the shut off valve to the "distribution point" is longer than 20 feet, the line must have a sign indicating the gas that is inside the pipe and the direction of flow. There must be a sign every 20 feet. This lets fire professionals know what is in the pipe.

The "distribution point" is anywhere where the gas line converts to "T" grade hose for end-use consumption at one or more torches.

For transitioning from metallic pipe to "T" grade hose, use standard brass fittings, threaded or flare, with a ribbed hose end on the opposite side to match the internal dimension of your "T" grade hose. For example: 3/8" pipe thread on one side, 1/4" male ribbed hose end on the other side.

If the run is going to be long, for example, more than 20 feet, consider increasing the size of the pipe by at least one pipe size. The length of the run from the propane tank to the distribution point in my studio is about 35 feet (up a wall to the ceiling, across the hallway, and down the wall on the other side). I ran 1/2" soft wall copper from the inside shut off valve to the distribution point valve, then 3/8" "T" grade hose from the distribution point valve to each torch.

Larger than 1/4" diameter hose will increase the amount of available volume of gas, giving you more "flow" at a consistent pressure. This is especially important if you have more than one torch, and/or one large torch and several smaller torches. The larger diameter hose will decrease flame fluctuation as the large torch is turned on or off, or if the outer fire ring is suddenly turned on or off (like if you have a foot pedal installed).
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old 2016-07-22, 2:45pm
cindylee57 cindylee57 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 22, 2016
Posts: 4
Default heat and Propane tank

I have been getting a smoke looking stuff coming out of my torch before I light it. Its been hot in Illinois and I even chsnged the tank and it was fine and again its doing it. Can someone tell me uf its the heat and will that smokey substance ruin my hose. My tank is in the shade on my deck but it does get some sun??? help
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 2016-07-23, 11:42am
Speedslug's Avatar
Speedslug Speedslug is offline
Phill
 
Join Date: Mar 21, 2009
Location: Winnebago, MN
Posts: 1,777
Default

I don't know what to tell you.


Does it continue to come out after a few ( seconds? Or is it just a puff at the beginning?


The type of gas hose you are using has to be labeled as "type T" when using propane.

The hoses used with acetylene will disintegrate from the inside when they get used with propane for very long and that can get dangerous.
You usually get a gummy liquid spitting out of the torch when that happens.


Wish I better information for you.

This the first I have heard of this.
__________________
So, What Do We Do Now? We continue to try to make a difference when and where we can. Because that's what we do.
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old 2016-07-28, 9:32pm
firefreak's Avatar
firefreak firefreak is offline
Retired to the flame
 
Join Date: Jan 05, 2006
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 247
Default

Most propane will put off some smoke before you add the oxygen. this is normal due to incomplete combustion. That is why we use the oxygen!
Also if the tank sets in the heat for a while the pressure inside climbs as the temperature of the liquid propane increases. This is also normal. It can not climb above a preset level due to a safety release devise built into the valve assembly.
The increased pressure can push a little extra at the torch on start-up. That will make the flame a little "dirtier" for a bit. The more expensive 2 stage fuel regulators can help some. Or just start with a very small propane flame and add oxygen right away and then "step - up" a little of each until you reach a working flame.
__________________
Working with a Red Rocket,Red Max,Natty hand torch-- and tanked oxy from a Homefill system
Bryan M
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 5:32pm.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Your IP: 54.242.205.33