Venice & Murano Travel Tips?

Tannise · #1 2010-08-24, 9:07am

My DH & I are going on a Med cruise for our anniversary next May. I want to see the glass factories on Murano. Any tips on where to go? What to buy? I'm at a loss, but chose this itinerary just so I could set foot on Murano.

Oh ye glass gurus, please guide me.

Much thanks and appreciation, Tannise

Diane (clarus) · #2 2010-08-24, 12:05pm

How exciting! DH and I are going to Venice and Florence next month - just for a couple of days in each city, but it's an award he got at work so we'll take what we can get (and I'm very proud of him!) So far the main advice I've gotten is to go to the Carlo Dona tool store on Murano. I have some of his tools already and can't wait to get more! I've started to compile a list of recommendations of other places to go and would be happy to share that with you once it's done.

Where in the Bay Area are you?

-Diane

Ofilia · #3 2010-08-24, 1:16pm

Hi Tannise, generally when people go on cruises to Venice, their stay is Venice proper, is limited time. I'm not really sure how much time, on your own, you will have to scout around.

Generally, all the factories open to the public, for "tours" are more for promotional/self promoting schiesters. Yes, I said it, schiesters

. Those companies that offer you a "free" boat ride to Murano, will literally steer you ONLY to a certain factory, and their prices are very inflated and for the non-savvy.

One furnace, that is not slimey like that, is the Schiavon studio at No#7 on the Vetrai canal. They actually have three galleries in Murano, but this is the one with the furnace room. They are near to the Colonna vaporetto stop. If you go in the mornings, that is generally when they are doing their non-production work, and is very interesting. Of course, there is a 'tip' plate, to live a token for the thank you to see them at work. Massimiliano Schiavon is a lovely person, and his right hand man, Claudio Zama is a maestro in his own right. They make some gorgeous blown beads made from bright opaque millefiore rods, heavily carved into in various patterns. They are awesome! They may negotiate on price as well, especially, if you offer cash.

Do not miss Cesare Toffolo's shop. You will not be able to see him at work, but you will get to meet his lovely wife, Teresa, and see all the fabulous work produced by him and his two sons. They should have their new gallery open by now. It too, is located on the Vetrai (as are many many glass shops) and not far down from the Schiavone, on the same side of the canal (close to the white stone bridge with lions).

Tool buying is a MUST, of course! Check out the Dona Tool thread in the Gallery section for the address. He's just a hop skip from the Venier vaporetto stop. Go in week day hours, before 5:30 best. He takes cash only. Sometimes he is open on Saturday mornings, but not necessarily always.

In Venice proper, be sure not to miss Vittorio Costantini!!! Here is his address: Calle del Fumo, 5311
It's not far from the Vaporetto Fondament Nuove (which is also the stop that can take you to Murano before leaving the island of Venice to head that way). He sometimes is working on his torch and is remarkable like no other when it comes to tiny figures of bugs and animals....... He's a sweetheart to boot!

Enjoy your time there! Buon viaggio

!

SarahBoser · #4 2010-08-24, 1:39pm

My number one recommendation...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ofilia

In Venice proper, be sure not to miss Vittorio Costantini!!!

Diane (clarus) · #5 2010-08-24, 3:05pm

Ofilia - I was hoping you would pop into this discussion! Thanks for the addresses of Caesar Toffolo and Vittorio Constantini - I've added them to my map.

Are there any places on Murano where you can buy glass rods, etc for lampworking at home? Or is it better to forget that, concentrate on buying tools from Roberto and items made by the masters?

Tannise, Ofilia is the person to talk to about anything travel-related around Murnao.

mikefrantz · #6 2010-08-24, 3:23pm

I would like to chime in. One of the most exciting rides you can take is the #1 that goes down theGrand canal of Venice. But to enjoy the boat the proper way you need to get on the one that has seating on the outside, the front of the boat and both left and right sides. If you do not get a seat on the outside then you must sit inside and look through dirty and scratched windows or stand outside and usually packed like sardines.

If time allows it what you would want to do is get on the #1 when you can sit in front. This can not be done anywhere near Venice. The best way to get the Seat of a Lifetime is to take the #1 from wherever you can get on it and take it to the Lido and then either move up front or get off and wait til you can catch the next boat and sit in front. Do not forget to keep seated as standing keeps the captain from seeing where he is going.

Take a seat either side of the boat, but take the seat that is next to the water instead of the one that is closer to the middle of the boat and bring your camera, make sure your battery is charged and be sure you have gone to the bathroom and go on a boat ride you will never forget. You can take the boat all the way to the end, but you might just want to get off at the train station. The station is a good place to use a clean bathroom. Last time it was .60 euros, so bring change along.

Once you have used the facilities of the train station walk the Strada. Once you have left the train station there is a pizza place I love going to. It is on the left side, easy to miss, the name translated is Three Ducks and there is a sign that shows three ducks. If in doubt as a vendor, but not a food establishment as they will not tell you and try to get you to go into their place. This may not be the BEST pizza, but it has to be close to it, good prices and very large and roomy inside.

Once you have eaten (again use their toilets). For those of you who may not be aware, toilets in eating establishments is not for public use. They are for customers. What I always do when it is time to go to the toilet, I walk inside, get up to the bar and order a coffee and say you will be right back. A coffee cost $1.50 or so, while a pay toilet cost the same, so why not get a cup of coffee and a pot to pee in for the same $1.50.

Another tip, when walking down the Strada there will be places where you can take a gondala ride across the Grand Canal. The exact name you would see on the sign I can not remember, but I am sure Ofilia does and for a Euro (or less) you get a one minute ride. Much cheaper than the 50-100 gondala ride that tourists take. But on this ride you usually stand and there is nobody singing to you.

Have a nice trip.

Mike

Tannise · #7 2010-08-24, 6:52pm

Wow - thanks for all the great info!

Diane, I'd love it if you'd share your tips as you compile them. I'll do the same. I'm in Livermore - about as far East Bay as you can get. And it's hotter than blazes out here today. 105 at 5:30pm

Ofilia & Mike - thanks for taking the time to be so detailed. I REALLY appreciate this kind of info. Luckily, our ship is in Venice for two full days, so I'm really hoping that I'll have one day to see the tourist sites and one day for glass nirvana. Great to have all this info ahead of time so I can really plan for those couple of days.

Now I just have to wait for 9 months.......almost like having a baby, but no dirty diapers at the end of the wait. LOL

Thanks very much.
Tannise

Diane (clarus) · #8 2010-08-24, 7:23pm

Mike - thank you so much for chiming in - you're always a great resource!

Tannise - yeah, summer has finally made itself known over here too for the first time since June. I am near Stanford University where it hit 104 today - very unusual. I despise the hot weather, so I've treasured our cool summer. I only got to torch until 11:00 this morning, but at least I got some time in. It's supposed to cool off starting tomorrow.

I'll be very happy to share my info - I'll get back here tomorrow.

-Diane

Ofilia · #9 2010-08-25, 10:31am

LOL, yes the Traghetti is a great tiny experience for your 50 cents! It's a criss cross across several locations along the Grand Canal of Venice. It's basically the "shortcut" to having to walk all the way over to the so called, nearest bridge. The one that takes you across to the big open market near the Rialto is a do not miss. But you must do that in the early morning to catch all the commotion of the market and people watching (and fish sniffing

)

My suggestion is stand ONLY if you are steady on a slightly rocky canoe ride, LOL. Don't be too proud a toursit, and you can sit your butt on the side wall of the gondola. If you stand, the thing to 'distinguish' you from the actual 'tourists' is that when you go and position yourself, you actually do NOT face the direction the boat appears it will be headed off. As the gondola pushes off, it turns AROUND, and then you will be actually facing the right way if you face the direction you boarded.

There is a great patiserie shop near this Rialto Traghetti stop that has some beautiful marzipan desserts (you'll easily spot them in the window) that look too beautiful to eat! I took some home just for the novelty (as I'm not necessarily a marzipan fan) but the flavor is pretty darn good on these pieces of art

.

On your glass rod question, I would hold off for a trip when you have some inside help. You can buy rod but the prices are not better then you would pay in the US. Once you have an 'inside', you can get the word to purchase rod at the 'black book' (I call it that, as the prices are hiddin in a black binder) rather than the prices posted. BUY TOOLS

!!! It will quickly eat up your luggage allowance, LOL.

scaredycat · #10 2010-08-26, 4:07am

If you are near the Rialto there is another glassworker called Mauro Vianello. When I went a few weeks ago he was away so I didn't go inside his workshop, but he had some lovely tiny glass insects in his window. If you google his name you can find a youtube video of how to find his shop easily.

Tannise · #11 2010-08-26, 8:48am

Ya'll have waaaayyyy better info than any of the guide books. You should put together a travel guide "the lampworker's guide to Venice".

All the info is appreciated.........Mike, I really appreicate the bathroom tips too.

Chelladisegni · #12 2010-08-26, 3:12pm

Hey Ofilia don't forget Graziano's bead shop just off the Piazza San Marco. I will look for the address tonight. He is at the end of the Basilica to the left. Go thru the entrance with the clock then to the right.............more to follow.

Marianne

Diane (clarus) · #13 2010-08-26, 3:40pm

Thanks, Scaredycat and Marianne. Keep those tips coming!

Tannise - here are links to the threads you need to read. Especially the last one.

Ofilia's Venice thread:

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=141863

Sharon Peters' Venice thread (with some fabulous photos!):

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=164585

Some good info in Rudy's thread:

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=140946

And a thread you need to read from start to finish - the Carlo Dona tool thread:

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=139260

I'm sure I missed some important ones, but I'll post them when I find them.

-Diane

Tannise · #14 2010-08-26, 4:52pm

Thanks Diane,

Sorry I haven't reciprocated - haven't had a chance to research. Thanks so much for all your work. I'll have to fire up the printer for all those great threads.

Tannise

Marcy · #15 2010-08-28, 9:43am

You can "friend" mauro on fb and tell him you're a lampworker. He will invite you to his shop in Venice and is very nice.

Marcy · #16 2010-08-28, 9:45am

PS- those Dona tools get heavy- but are so worthwhile. you might want a portable scale with you for your airline return.

Diane (clarus) · #17 2010-08-28, 10:11am

Here's an interesting link that I found when searching on Mauro's name:

http://theveniceexperience.blogspot....glass-guy.html

Looks like Mauro himself commented on the blog post, and there's a lot of other info on Venice there.

Marcy, yes, the Dona tools are heavy but they're SO nice!. When we go, I'll have my own luggage allotment plus DH's, and he doesn't plan to buy anything. My only limitation is going to be the cash I can raise to pay for them. Ofilia, is he willing to be paid in biscotti?

-Diane

Ofilia · #18 2010-08-28, 4:47pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diane (clarus)

My only limitation is going to be the cash I can raise to pay for them. Ofilia, is he willing to be paid in biscotti?

-Diane

LOL

.......no. But they DO appreciate the kind gesture of the thought. It's such a great feeling to touch these guys in the heart

. Murano has gone through such a transition, it's nice to let them know how much they are appreciated.

Pia Kaven · #19 2010-08-28, 5:05pm

I would love to mention few names that are defenitely worth of seeing. Vittorio Ferro, Pino Signoretto, Effetre factory, or at least the show room, also Sent sisters (lampwork jewerly) and Venini would be must see- ones. They might be very difficult, if not impossible (excluding the Effetre) to get in without knowledgeable guide, that would have to be found well ahead of time. Italo Ballarini is awesome as well, but his studio is actually on the main land. These are the maestroes of glass blowing, that most want to copy and hope to gain their skills and eye.
Then there is ofcourse Lino Tagliapietra, but he works so much around the world that it might be impossible to get into his studio...
You will love it, I loved Murano more than the rest of Venice, and I just wish I had taken the job offer there 7 years ago...

Oh, and to add, dont think about bringing any rods back with ya... you have to buy minimum of 10 kiloes (23 pounds) or any color you want... and it is not cut into 12" lengths... it is about 4 feet long, and if you will fly at all... not gonna happen.

Ofilia · #20 2010-08-29, 6:44am

I found a great link with a short video clip of how the Traghetti (plural for the graghetto) run. There are several points along the Grand Canal where these operate. The Tragehetti maneuver they way across the paths of the busy canal full of vaporetti, taxis, private and commercial boats.

This video was obviously filmed in aqua alta, winter season. You can really distinguish the "tourists" from the locals simply by their demeanor, as they board. The locals, do and about-face as they board, they are steady on their feet, even the elderly(!!), and the tourist are flashing cameras and looking all about or sitting (wisely

, no less) their tooshies on the sides of the gondola.

http://venicetravelblog.com/2010/03/...anal.html%2520

It's quick, it's efficient and cool to ride! Have your coins ready to pay as you board. The frequency will vary on the time of day, of course, based on traffic.

Nancy Peterson · #21 2010-09-14, 5:46am

I am going to Venice and Murano in October and will post photos while there. Watch my web site for a link or sign on to my blog to see postings at www.beaverislandjewelry.blogspot.com.

This is a re-visit. First time was with Ofilia so we really got the grand (inside) tour. You can see Carlo Dona and most of the places we saw on my blog - www.beaverislandjewelry.blogspot.com. The 2008 trip on my blog starts with Murano. 2008 Trip to Murano and Venice Just scroll up through the "newer" posts to see all the pictures.

Venice, Murano and Burano are wonderful places.

Nancy Peterson
Beaver Island Jewelry

Diane (clarus) · #22 2010-09-14, 9:23am

Nancy, thank you for sharing your wonderful photos! I am going to be in Venice, Murano and Burano two weeks from today and seeing more images raises my already high excitement level.

-Diane Peterson (no relation

)