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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions. |
2014-10-12, 2:26pm
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Bead semi-newbie
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Join Date: Jul 29, 2010
Location: northern Sierra's in CA, Plumas County
Posts: 344
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Amber Purple help
i looked on the site doing a search and couldn't find any threads with AP as the topic so i throw myself on your mercy. i have been doing 104 for so long i lost my boro mojo, i can't even strike AP it seems. anyone have any go to youtube videos to suggest or just some written words of wisdom? hard to imagine that an AP thread doesn't exist OR maybe i just don't know how to use "search." thank you in advance
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Sara Conklin, newbie since June 2010
Carlisle minor, hot head and Lynx
104, 90, 96 and boro
LOVE silver glass
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2014-10-12, 2:45pm
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Loving learning
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Join Date: Oct 11, 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 11,654
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I searched:
boro purple haze
and got several hits, one of them being this one, hope it helps!
http://lampworketc.com/forums/showth...er+purple+haze
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My current "hot" fantasy involves a senior discount on glass & tools!
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2014-10-12, 4:22pm
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honorary bead lady
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Join Date: Jan 14, 2008
Location: Mostly the doghouse
Posts: 5,180
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2014-10-12, 4:57pm
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Bead semi-newbie
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Join Date: Jul 29, 2010
Location: northern Sierra's in CA, Plumas County
Posts: 344
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thanks to the 2 of you. i just reread, twice, the beginning sections of Pipyr's 2008 tutorial "boro on an oxygen consentrator" and had more success with triple passion and the dreaded, AP. turned down my propane to 5, from about 8 (at 4 i couldn't really get my torch lit.....) that probably helped. will look at the links you suggest, thanks.
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Sara Conklin, newbie since June 2010
Carlisle minor, hot head and Lynx
104, 90, 96 and boro
LOVE silver glass
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2014-10-14, 1:33pm
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ManBearPig
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Join Date: Jun 28, 2005
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 8,540
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Amber purple is pretty easy to strike. The key is keeping it hot. It likes to be either really screaming hot or room temperature. It doesn't like anything in between. It especially doesn't like repeated heating and cooling.
Try this - Take a plain rod of amber purple. Heat the end of it and ball it up. Keep heating until it goes completely clear. Then take it out of the flame and let it cool all the way down to where there is no glow. Introduce it into the back of the flame where it's just starting to get warm. You should see it go yellow, then brown, then purple. If that happens, you have successfully struck it.
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2014-10-14, 2:29pm
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Bead semi-newbie
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Join Date: Jul 29, 2010
Location: northern Sierra's in CA, Plumas County
Posts: 344
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it gets to dark yellow, almost orange, not brown or purple. so, get hot as snot, cool till glow gone, back in outer part of the flame and KEEP IT THERE ???, i check the color once and awhile out of the flame, not long but definitely out of the flame, not so good?
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Sara Conklin, newbie since June 2010
Carlisle minor, hot head and Lynx
104, 90, 96 and boro
LOVE silver glass
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2014-10-14, 3:47pm
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Bead semi-newbie
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Join Date: Jul 29, 2010
Location: northern Sierra's in CA, Plumas County
Posts: 344
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so, i finally got purple. it seems to work best for me if i get it snotty hot; cool, strike; snotty hot again, cool and 2nd strike. doing better and thanks everyone.
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Sara Conklin, newbie since June 2010
Carlisle minor, hot head and Lynx
104, 90, 96 and boro
LOVE silver glass
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2014-10-15, 6:24am
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ManBearPig
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Join Date: Jun 28, 2005
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 8,540
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And you should be able to repeat that process multiple times. The key is to keep it really hot or cool. Don't let it spend too much time in between.
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2014-10-15, 12:35pm
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Bead semi-newbie
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Join Date: Jul 29, 2010
Location: northern Sierra's in CA, Plumas County
Posts: 344
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kiln fairy was good to me. a couple came out pretty yellow but when i went back in and followed new advice did the snot, cold, snot, cold drill they have some lovely purples. i also like the filmy effect of playing with the silver on the surface by mixing some, just some! with clear and whipping it around so it is in the center of the bead. oh, so much fun. just got a glass order from Frantz and the rods are in the dishwasher as we speak, life is good. thanks to everyone.
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Sara Conklin, newbie since June 2010
Carlisle minor, hot head and Lynx
104, 90, 96 and boro
LOVE silver glass
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2014-10-18, 1:51am
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 20, 2014
Posts: 4
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I have found that striking amber purple colors is best done by using an oxidizing flame when heating the color and working it (gets it hot and gets rid of all reduction and effectively turns color translucent) but be careful to preheat it a bit in the outer flame.to avoid bubbling. Once you have finished working it you may flame strike it a bit by using a slightly more reducing flame to heat the entire area that you want to strike (just enough to barely start to glow) Be careful not to overheat. You don't want anything hot enough to move. Just a good surface heat will do. Once you've applied your flame to the area, it can finish its striking in the kiln. I've gotten a lot of good results with amber and double amber purple as well as Queen Bee and all the Mai Tai colors using this technique.
https://vimeo.com/109309518
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- Patrick Charles
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2014-10-18, 6:53am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 14, 2012
Location: Bennington, VT
Posts: 1,776
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nah....with a/p dont' worry about boiling it....it'll heal over. hell NS even says "go ahead and boil a/p".
one of the few colors you can abuse to the point of boiling and it still looks good when all is said and done.
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2014-10-18, 9:54am
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Bead semi-newbie
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Join Date: Jul 29, 2010
Location: northern Sierra's in CA, Plumas County
Posts: 344
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thanks for the help everyone. thanks for the video connection, that's the color i was trying to get and finally did get. doing the hot, cold, hot cold twice seems to have been my answer. i will also play with doing a couple of annealing cycles to see if that indeed darkens the color. had no idea that Queen Bee was included in this working mojo. love the ease of Mai Tai family.
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Sara Conklin, newbie since June 2010
Carlisle minor, hot head and Lynx
104, 90, 96 and boro
LOVE silver glass
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2014-10-19, 8:18am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 06, 2008
Location: SE PA
Posts: 1,996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saraconklin
thanks for the help everyone. thanks for the video connection, that's the color i was trying to get and finally did get. doing the hot, cold, hot cold twice seems to have been my answer. i will also play with doing a couple of annealing cycles to see if that indeed darkens the color. had no idea that Queen Bee was included in this working mojo. love the ease of Mai Tai family.
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I consider the Mai Tais Paul's rendition of A/P on steriods!! Love them all ... each differently but play with them much more often than regular A/P.
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Laura
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2014-10-22, 5:35pm
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Gay rights R human rights
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Join Date: May 06, 2006
Location: Squamish BC Canada
Posts: 2,719
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The yellow ones? Just keep chucking back in the kiln. Run a striking schedule. Garage, ramp to 1200-1250 hold 45 min ramp down to anneal.
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Leslie
"Very funny, Scotty. Now beam down my clothes."
Remember kiddies..."WRAP IT BEFORE YOU NAP IT!!!!
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