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  #1  
Old 2006-11-10, 8:15pm
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Default Barracuda Lynx and concentrators?

I have two OG15's from OGSI. I currently run my lynx on them with no problems. I am in need of a bigger torch and am considering the Barracuda. Will my 2 units run it well or should I consider another torch? I want to be able to do larger boro and soft sculpture work. Realisticly how large could I go with the Barracuda. I am able to do some large beads on my lynx but with boro it is much slower and smaller than I had wanted. Also for those of you who own a lynx how big can you go and how much time should it take. I was told I could do 2 inch boro marbles on it "no worries" but I can't or at least I haven't been able to sit there that long. The last time I tried I gave up on the idea after an hour or so. I could with soft glass but it took about an hour. I think it might have been a bit bigger than 2 inches though.

Last edited by Feldt's Glass; 2006-11-10 at 11:25pm.
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Old 2006-11-11, 3:25am
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Contrary to popular belief, t he Lynx is not all that great for larger stuff.

I'm sure you probably could do a 2" boro marble on it, but it will take some patience. I upgraded to a Cheetah because the Lynx couldn't do what I thought it would be able to do in a reasonable amount of time (very large soft glass beads). Perhaps on bottled, but I'm on 2 oxycons (9psi, 5lpm each) and it wasn't hackin' it, even though it's one of the most oxygen efficient torches out there. The Cheetah works beautifully, though.

As far as the cuda goes, you should be able to do larger items with your setup, which is much better than mine, but it still won't be running at 100%. Brent would be able to tell you for sure, as he works with Beths.
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  #3  
Old 2006-11-11, 7:13am
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I run my Cuda on two of these units. Mine are the M-20's, the first generation to the M-15. You can definitely run a Cuda on your machines. I have a 20 LPM combined output, but don't run it over 16 LPM total... that's equal to your current output. I couldn't be happier with my set up. It is a fabulous combination for a medium sized torch.

Let me know if you decide on a Cuda... I know a guy who knows a guy and could get you a good price.
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Old 2006-11-11, 11:05am
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You mentioned in another thread that you had bought your concentrators used and that your boyfriend had done the work on them to get them up and running. Have you checked the output with a pressure guage and a purity meter? It would be worthwhile to make sure they are putting out what they should be putting out - 15 CFH at 9-12 psi each (combined, that would be 30 CFH at 9-12 psi), and if they are not, get them serviced.

With your units, you should have twice the flow needed at just about the needed pressure for the Lynx to run at its maximum. Something is wrong if it takes an hour to make a 2" marble out of soft glass (unless it has intricate details or something like that).

I'm not trying to discourage you from getting a Barracuda. What I am encouraging you to do is make sure your concentrators are operating properly because if they are not, you might be disappointed with the Barracuda's performance, as well.

The Barracuda requires 42 CFH at about 20 psi to get its maximum flame, but whether or not you need to use that maximum flame depends on your working style. People (like Brent) are happy without reaching the top end of that torch.
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  #5  
Old 2006-11-11, 12:31pm
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I'm sure if you talk in LPMs, it would make more sense to folks. CFH requires conversion.

I'd check the concentrators if the flame isn't right. If it's just the size of the flame, I'd upgrade to a larger torch. I couldn't imagine doing a 2" marble out of any glass on a flame that small. Bekah does it on a smaller torch, but she says it takes forever too.

The Cuda calls for 20 LPM... I am very happy with it's performance at 16 LPM. I could go as high as 20 with my units, but I never need to. I work boro and it melts like buttah at 16 LPM. I could easily do 2" boro marbles at that setting.
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  #6  
Old 2006-11-11, 3:54pm
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Concentrator performance can affect the size of your flame. If your concentrator is not pushing out enough oxygen (flow problems or purity problems), then you will have to keep you flame size dialed down to keep from going into a reduction flame.



Torch companies report their consumption rates in CFH. Most industrial concentrators/generators report their output in CFH (that's the "15" in the OG15 we're discussing here). Medical concentrators usually report their output in LPM.

Just as a basic rule of thumb, divide the CFH number in half to get a rough approximation of the LPM.



Flame size/width and heat density are two different things. When comparing a standard torch to another standard torch (or comparing one triple mix torch to another triple mix torch), wider means hotter. This is not true when comparing a standard torch to a triple mix torch. We've already seen that when the Lynx beat the Barracuda in Lewis Wilson's melt tests: http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/show...ight=barracuda.

My point in bringing these test results up is that you can put more heat into the glass more efficiently from a small triple mix than a larger standard torch. Don't get a standard torch with a wider flame thinking that you will be getting something that generates more heat than a triple mix torch whose flame is not as wide. Get a torch with a wider flame because you just want a wider flame for how you work.

People like different torches for different reasons and I know that for some people, they like a wider flame for some applications when a wider flame would not be necessary for other people.


As for the 2" marble on a Lynx thing...

George O'Grady consistently makes large boro beads and marble in the 2" size class on a Lynx. You can go even larger than 2", like 2.5", but 2" is a reasonable size without a lot of waiting around.

Bek was making her marbles on a Minor Burner. The Minor Burner (standard torch with a flame width of about 1/2" or so) is not in the same class as a Lynx (triple mix torch with about a 7/8" flame width).



But in the end, regardless of what torch you have, if you are running it on concentrators, you want your concentrators to be in tip-top shape so you can get the best performance available.
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  #7  
Old 2006-11-11, 5:12pm
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There is some confusion on the units that I have.

According to the OGSI website, the OG-15 is a "15CFH" concentrator, which is equal to about 7.5LMP. It is , NOT a 15LMP machine.

I do check the concentration with an Oxygen meter on a regular basis. And yes, the oxygen sensor is calibrated on a regular basis. These units were refurbished according to the specs given by OGSI using parts purchased from them. We have done several tests to see the difference between the two units and tanked oxy and there is only a 5% difference at most with the lynx in question. I expect that because they are not as pure as that of tanked oxy.

I asked my boyfriend for an explanation and here is what he wrote. “The bottom line: In real life, my two OG-15's working together at 9 PSI put out about the same amount of oxygen as 15 CFH or 30 LPM out of a tank.

When you get past the marketing hype and throw in real life situations here are the real numbers:

From the OG-15 operator's manual, it can put out 95% concentration at up to 10 CFH (5 LPM) at 9PSI at sea level. By the time you increase the flow to 15 CFH (7.5LPM) you are down to 85% at seal level. The "at sea level" part is important. We are located at 2,700 feet where the atmospheric pressure is at 90% of the sea level pressure, so the unit can only put out about 90% of the flow rates than at sea level.

You also need to keep in mind that if the generator is producing 90% concentration at 10CFH, it has as much oxygen as 9CFH out of a tank that puts out 100% concentration.

When you take all of that into account, the output of my OG-15 is equal to about 8.5CFH (17LPM) out of a tank.

When you combine two concentrators, you do not get twice the output -- you get a little less. This is because the concentrators do no share the load equally (you can never get the pressures to be EXACTLY the same) so one of them is putting out a bit more then the other.”

My question was mainly what are the differences in the two torches. Is it worth switching over? What will I get from the cudda that I won’t get from the lynx, and what will I be giving up? I know they are different but I have not worked on a cudda and wanted to know from someone who has. As far as the size goes what I have notice from others at gatherings and shows is that one person’s 2 inch marble and another persons 2 inch marble are not the same size. That is the reason I wanted to know “real” measurements and expectations on time. I am not complaining about the lynx don’t get me wrong I just want to do bigger stuff than I seem to be able to do and want to upgrade. I measured the soft glass item that I did last night and it is 2 inches tall,1&1/2 wide by 3/4 deep at its widest points. I am making tops for bottle stoppers not marbles so the shape is not round. The trouble I run into is when I go to decorate it after shaping. This item is (what I would say) at the high end of what the torch can keep warm, so when I go to decorate it I usually end up with cracking. I can do a lot of them with not much detail on the outside but what is the fun in that.
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  #8  
Old 2006-11-12, 5:14am
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My bad... I've got the Unlimited Oxygen M-15's on my brain. The figures I gave previously are for those units.

If you can get 16-20 LPM out of your machines when they are combined, you've got enough volume for the Cuda. At 9 PSI, you don't have the optimum pressure, but you'll be fine for soft glass and most boro. The only thing you'll lack is a hard driving flame.

If you go to a Cuda, you'll get a wider flame... this makes it a LOT easier to get an even heat base into a larger gather. For larger work, there is no substitute for a wider flame. Sure, you can do it with a smaller flame, but you have to keep it moving around a lot more. The Cuda is a two stage torch, so you don't give up the ability to do fine detailed work. For that, you just use the center fire and crank the ourter ring up when you need it to build mass or to reheat something quick.

I'm sorry aboput the confusion over your units. Some days, I'm hit or miss on the details.
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  #9  
Old 2006-11-12, 8:56am
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I just got a Cuda a month ago and I can do so much more than what I could do with my Piranha. Alot larger and faster too. I am on 2 concentrators. My last fish is 6" X 8" it is thin, but big and it worked great. I could not have done it with the Piranha, it would have cracked because of not enough heat to keep it warm all over.

Lori Robbins has a Cuda and she can do everything she wants with it. She can do the 2" marbles without a problem.

Jerri
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Old 2006-11-12, 9:49am
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For what it matters I have the same set up at Brent and I'm really happy with it for soft glass. I can't imagine being more happy with my Cuda on 2 M20s for soft glass and smaller boro. (I'm actually working on just one M20 right now because one is getting repaired and I'm still happy working with the soft glass.) For boro the cuda gets it done, I think a 2" marble is pushing it but do-able, probably just because I'm not very patient. But I'm always seeking more when working boro so I'm going to upgrade the whole set up (keeping the Cuda for soft glass). I'm upgrading to a 40 mm Herbert Arnold for that.
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Last edited by JCHerrellGlass; 2006-11-12 at 9:52am.
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Old 2006-11-12, 1:48pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kimberly View Post
Okay. That does it. I am no longer going to speak to you - ever.




I love you, too!



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Originally Posted by kimberly View Post
I have lusted after a Herbie for a long, long, LONG time!


I hope you love it!



Yup... I just decided last week. Now I have to figure how I'm gonna power her up and then how I'm gonna pay. So... it's a little far from being a done deal but my mind is made up on the Herbie (and I'm still maybe considering making that a 50 mm...)
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Last edited by JCHerrellGlass; 2006-11-12 at 1:50pm.
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  #12  
Old 2006-11-12, 6:16pm
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I would like to reply to several of your points. In order to do that and maintain some organization, I have posted the way I posted below. Please don't take this as "picking apart" in a negative way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LT View Post
There is some confusion on the units that I have.

According to the OGSI website, the OG-15 is a "15CFH" concentrator, which is equal to about 7.5LMP. It is , NOT a 15LMP machine.
That is correct, the OG15 is NOT a 15 LPM machine. It is a 15 CFH machine, and 15 CFH is 7.08 LPM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LT View Post
I do check the concentration with an Oxygen meter on a regular basis. And yes, the oxygen sensor is calibrated on a regular basis. These units were refurbished according to the specs given by OGSI using parts purchased from them. We have done several tests to see the difference between the two units and tanked oxy and there is only a 5% difference at most with the lynx in question. I expect that because they are not as pure as that of tanked oxy.

I asked my boyfriend for an explanation and here is what he wrote. “The bottom line: In real life, my two OG-15's working together at 9 PSI put out about the same amount of oxygen as 15 CFH or 30 LPM out of a tank.
This last statement confuses me a little - 30 LPM out of a tank?
Quote:
Originally Posted by LT View Post
When you get past the marketing hype and throw in real life situations here are the real numbers:

From the OG-15 operator's manual, it can put out 95% concentration at up to 10 CFH (5 LPM) at 9PSI at sea level. By the time you increase the flow to 15 CFH (7.5LPM) you are down to 85% at seal level. The "at sea level" part is important. We are located at 2,700 feet where the atmospheric pressure is at 90% of the sea level pressure, so the unit can only put out about 90% of the flow rates than at sea level.
This is very helpful to know. The specs shown on the OGSI website (and elsewhere) indicate that the OG15 maintains 90% up to 15 CFH. What has your oxygen meter read for an OG15 at 15 CFH?
Quote:
Originally Posted by LT View Post
You also need to keep in mind that if the generator is producing 90% concentration at 10CFH, it has as much oxygen as 9CFH out of a tank that puts out 100% concentration.
Yes, if you are simply quantifying the amount of actual pure oxygen, you would be getting 9 CFH. But, there is no way to keep the 90% pure oxygen and throw out the rest - it all passes through the torch. The result is that you are getting 10 CFH of 90% pure oxygen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LT View Post
When you take all of that into account, the output of my OG-15 is equal to about 8.5CFH (17LPM) out of a tank.

I'm not trying to pick on you, but 8.5 CFH is only 4.01 LPM. I just don't want there to be any confusion regarding CFH/LPM conversion. I'll walk everyone through the calculation:

One cubic foot is approximately 28.32 liters.

8.5 CFH (cubic feet per hour) / 60 M/H (minutes per hour) = 0.1417 CFM (cubic feet per minute)

0.1417 CFM * 28.32 L/CF (liters per cubic foot) = 4.01 LPM (liters per minute)

But, back to your earlier presumption that you are only getting the equivalent of 8.5 CFH from a tank... If you are running your concentrator at 10 CFH, you are passing 10 CFH of "something" through your torch. If that "something" is only 85% pure, for whatever reason, you are still passing 10 cubic feet of it each hour through your torch.

The result woud not be a smaller flame - because air still combusts with propane. The result would be a flame that is the same size, but cooler. It would also be slightly reducing. The flame would not be the typical rich blue flame, look "weaker."

Quote:
Originally Posted by LT View Post
When you combine two concentrators, you do not get twice the output -- you get a little less. This is because the concentrators do no share the load equally (you can never get the pressures to be EXACTLY the same) so one of them is putting out a bit more then the other.”
O.K., I have some questions for you. At what setting are you running your OG15s? What purity are they putting out at that setting? This is the only way to get the "real life" output of your units in order to know if your two units will give you satisfactory results on any larger torch.

In an ideal situation, your two units combined would be putting out 30 CFH at 90% purity and at 9 psi. Even if you are only running them so that you are getting 20 CFH at 90% purity and at 9 psi, you should be able to run a Barracuda on them. Whether or not it would be as hot as your Lynx running under the exact same conditions, I don't know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LT View Post
My question was mainly what are the differences in the two torches. Is it worth switching over?
It's hard enough making that decision when your oxygen source is a tank. Do you know anyone with a Barracuda who would let you run it on your set-up?

Quote:
Originally Posted by LT View Post
What will I get from the cudda that I won’t get from the lynx, and what will I be giving up? I know they are different but I have not worked on a cudda and wanted to know from someone who has. As far as the size goes what I have notice from others at gatherings and shows is that one person’s 2 inch marble and another persons 2 inch marble are not the same size. That is the reason I wanted to know “real” measurements and expectations on time. I am not complaining about the lynx don’t get me wrong I just want to do bigger stuff than I seem to be able to do and want to upgrade. I measured the soft glass item that I did last night and it is 2 inches tall,1&1/2 wide by 3/4 deep at its widest points. I am making tops for bottle stoppers not marbles so the shape is not round. The trouble I run into is when I go to decorate it after shaping. This item is (what I would say) at the high end of what the torch can keep warm, so when I go to decorate it I usually end up with cracking. I can do a lot of them with not much detail on the outside but what is the fun in that.
Well, ready for a shock? I agree with Brent - when you work with a small flame, you may have to move the item around to keep it warm.

But, how warm? And when you are trying to get the heat into a gather of glass, how long will it take? On one side, you have a wider flame that is not as hot and on the other side, you have a narrower flame that is hotter. If you have to sit on a piece for a long time to get the heat into a gather, you risk beating up the glass - the more you heat it up, the more you beat it up. With the narrower hotter flame, yes, you have to move the glass, but it does not take as long to heat the gather - less beating up the glass. Also, with a wider flame, you tend to melt in details and lose some of your precision. This is why many people on two stage torches will use the centerfire to do most of the work and reserve using the outerfire for heating initial gathers and for giving the whole piece a quick flash of heat.

I guess it all boils down to your working style and what you want to do.
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  #13  
Old 2006-11-12, 10:18pm
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Thanks Brent for answering. I really want to try one of these out and just see how it is for the way I work.
Kimberly Don't you have a cudda??? So do you really love it can't live without it or.... Just curious.
Kbinkster as for all your questions. I don't think you noticed that in my last post all the technical information about the OGSI units was from my boyfriend. So on those points I have forwarded your post to him and will let him respond to those. The others are as follows...
Quote:
Original quote from Kbinkster O.K., I have some questions for you. At what setting are you running your OG15s? What purity are they putting out at that setting? This is the only way to get the "real life" output of your units in order to know if your two units will give you satisfactory results on any larger torch
I run them at different levels depending on what I am doing. If I am doing larger work (which is in question here) I bump up the pressure to around 13 PSI. Because there are two of them they hold the load much better than one and I am still approx. 93% of purity. The machine determines the flow usually around 7 LPM total. I would have to sit down and do a test to get an “exact” purity and flow rate.

Quote:
It's hard enough making that decision when your oxygen source is a tank. Do you know anyone with a Barracuda who would let you run it on your set-up?
If I was at all possible I would not be asking about the torch I would just try it and see for myself. Does anybody have one I can borrow!!!!!!!!!????? I would love you!!!!!

Again my question was not based my concentrators mainly but on the torches themselves. I want to know how the cudda works and how much one likes or dislikes it. How the two torches differ and what they are best suited for. I wanted to here this from someone that has used a lynx and upgraded to a barracuda or cheetah like shawnette mentioned (thanks shawnette). I think it is also really important to know what these torches can do on a tank so that the concentrator system can be adjusted to get as close to that as possible. I have done that with my lynx so I know my torch is maxed out. I don’t know if the cudda is the torch for me that is why I asked. I think it is very important when purchasing something as pricey as these larger torches are that one does there homework.
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  #14  
Old 2006-11-13, 6:02am
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I had a Cheetah and a Cuda at the same time. I sold my Cheetah to Shawnette, because I wanted to work larger. The Cheetah is a fine torch, but I wouldn't trade my Cuda for the Lynx or the Cheetah any day. It's bigger and faster for larger work, period.
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Old 2006-11-13, 6:29am
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Brent, I didn't realize you tried out all three. Well now I really have to find one!!!!!!!
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Old 2006-11-14, 12:57pm
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Hello Kbinkster,

Thanks for your critique of my analysis. Please allow me to return the favor and expand on a few things.

I am aware of what the OGSI website says. That is why I started with "When you get past all the marketing hype..." My source is the actual user's manual that came with the two OG-15 units in question. I consider that to be a more accurate source than marketing material on any website (I will get to the marketing material later). The chart is entitled "OG-15 Performance Curve" subtitled "Oxygen Purity Versus Flow" The purity stays at about 95% till about 10 CFH and then more or less linearly drops down to about 88% at 14 CFH then takes a dramatic drop down to 57% at 20 CFH. This line crosses the 15 CFH mark at about 85%

The graph has a note "Oxygen Purity +/- 5%" That is why, it is technically correct that the OGSI can produce UP TO 90% purity at 15 CFH, but it is just as likely to give you only 80% OGSI just chooses to leave off the second half of the sentence. In their defense, so do all other manufacturers, so OGSI has to do this to keep the playing field level.

I refurbished the units based on suggestions and parts from OGSI. Fred Morgan at OGSI is an incredible person for providing the level of support that he has even to someone who bought used units off eBay for a song. In testing the units after refurbishing them, I have found both units to be slightly worse than the graph in real life performance. However, I am doing all the testing at an altitude of about 2,700 feet MSL at an atmospheric pressure of about 688 mmHg. When I compensate for the lower ambient pressure, the performance numbers come out slight better than those specified in the graph, meaning that the units would operate a little better than the "typical" numbers in the graph if I lug them down to some place located at sea level. That is still not as good as the most optimistic numbers used for marketing, but you can not expect it to be.

Your math for converting CFH to LMP is absolutely correct down to the 2nd decimal place. However, it misses the point. When you are starting with a number that has an accuracy of 5% all results derived from it are approximate as well. Taking an approximate number and tacking on digits to the right of decimal to give it the illusion of accuracy is an extremely dangerous practice and has been the cause of many an engineering disaster. I do not know what you do professionally, but I would strongly caution you against this practice. If an engineer like me, who designs life critical devices, did what you tried to do, I will kill a few people -- guaranteed.

In order to burn one molecule of propane in a neutral flame, you need to deliver 5 molecules of oxygen to the torch. To get the full performance out of a torch, the manufacturer specifies a certain propane flow and a certain oxygen flow, lets say 9LPM for a hypothetical torch. If you connect this torch to an oxygen tank, your tank will need to provide 9LMP of oxygen flow, as specified by the manufacturer. On the other hand, if you connect this torch to an oxygen generator that produces 90% oxygen and 10% nitrogen, you will need to deliver 10LPM of "gas" to the torch, in order to get the 9LMP of oxygen that is needed to burn the propane. My point for "15LMP out of a tank" was that even though the oxygen generators are producing 17LMP of gas, it contains only as much oxygen as 15LMP of gas coming out of an oxygen tank. If you are using a torch that is specified at 9LMP of oxygen, you can not set your oxygen generator to 9LMP and expect to receive full performance.

Let me digress a bit and talk about the impact of oxygen concentration. The neutral combustion process for propane (C3H8 + 5O2 = 3CO2 + 4H2O) consists of one molecule of propane (C3H8 ) combining with 5 molecules of oxygen (O2) to produce four molecules of water (H2O), three molecules of carbon dioxide (CO2), heat and light. You see the heat and light as a flame. To produce a neutral flame, each molecule of propane must have 5 molecules of oxygen in its immediate vicinity when it enters the flame. Molecules of other inert gases in the immediate area will interfere with the process by physically blocking access to the molecules. If the other molecules are present in small quantities, their interference will be minimal to non-existent. That is the case when you are using a mix of 90% oxygen and 10% nitrogen out of an oxygen concentrator. But if there are a lot of these other molecules (using pressurized regular room air) then they will interfere with the combustion process and result in a much weaker and cooler flame with CO (carbon monoxide) and C (carbon) as byproducts of the incomplete combustion process. What is the minimum concentration where a neutral flame can not be sustained? I do not know, but I suspect that it dependent to a certain extent on the design of the particular torch. Some torches may do better than others when operating on lower concentration oxygen but none will do well at very low concentrations.

Regards,

Mr. LT

Last edited by Mr. LT; 2006-11-14 at 12:59pm.
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Old 2006-11-14, 1:33pm
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Hi LT, I just want to add another kink to your evaluation of these torches. I have used the Lynx, the Cuda and am presently by choice on the Cheetah. A lot of the information you need can only be answered by you because of the way you work. For me, the Lynx and the Cuda's inside flame are too narrow for my work - soft glass, 3" wide and 2 " long. With the Cuda you will be able to add the outside ring, but to me and my way of making beads, that was too much flame, too wide for my work and keeping everything warm without melting. The Cheetah works great for me because it is a larger flame than the Lynx or the center ring of the Cuda. It is extremely fast at heating both boro and soft glass, as I work in both. So, I just wanted you to also take this into consideration as you are seeking info on torches. Having a small inner flame was frustrating to me, but could work perfectly for you.
Good luck,
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Old 2006-11-14, 10:37pm
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Pam, Thanks for your imput. I read in another one of your posts that you run your cheetah on the OG20. You mentioned you were really happy with that set up. What elevation are you at? Also what PSI do you run yours at, and how many LPM does it produse on avarage with that pressure? I would have to look but I think you have more pressure options than I do. When I get the biggest flame out of my lynx I am running it at 13 PSI and it produces about 7 LPM with that pressure (with both OG15's combined). With that I get a very strong flame and is quite close to a tank. Doing more research I am leaning tward the cheetah at this time. I never use the pin point flame and just need a few more jets More Fire

Last edited by Feldt's Glass; 2006-11-14 at 10:40pm.
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Old 2006-11-15, 5:16am
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Hi LT, I am really happy with the Cheetah on the OG20, but it does not run at full power. I do not have the top end of the Cheetah's ability. Since I am not as savvy about these things as you all are, I will give you my settings on the OG20. My flowmeter is set at between 10 and 11 and my oxy pressure gauge is set at 14. Those were the recommendations when I got the unit and this is where I have kept it. I really have found no reason to change, because I have been extremely happy with it as is.

Actually you can get a very small flame on the Cheetah, but I don't use that either. I work on the edge of the flame rather than adjust it up and down. It's just the way I work, so this torch is perfect for me and the way I work. Some other torches have a lot of heat surrounding the flame, what I call radiant heat, which, to me, my torch doesn't and that allows me to have more control and to place the heat where I want it, when I want it and to the degree I want it. Again, this is a personal choice, and whatever torch you get, you are the one that will need to make adjustments to the way that torch works. You can change your working characteristics, but your torch can't.

I have told this story several times, but just to briefly tell you, I got the Cheetah and brought it home, hooked it up and just did not like it. I ran it for a day or so, but went back to my PM2D. The Cheetah sat here for a few months without any further use, but during a period when I just wanted to play, I took it out again and promised myself I would use it for a month. I did and never went back. I love it. Any new torch takes getting used to, but you just have to persevere and you and your torch will triumph.
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Old 2006-11-15, 2:20pm
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Thanks Pam!!! I think it is really important when you change torches you really give the new one a chance. I was not used to the lynx at first and we had many words. Well I did at least. When I got used to this torch I found a way to make it work. I just need a bit more for the larger stuff I tend to do now.
Do you have a holding tank on your OG20 or is it able to keep up without one? That would tell me alot how mine would do. I was told that one OG15 would work with the lynx and it did but only at about 75% but I needed to get a small holding tank so it could keep up with me. Then I think a month or so later I got another one so I could get the full use of the torch. Well I guess when I get a new torch I might just have to get a third!!
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Old 2006-11-15, 4:37pm
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LT, I don't have a holding tank, though I did think of getting one, but decided to wait to see how it worked. If it becomes inconvenient I will get one, but right now I have all the power I need.
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Old 2006-11-15, 6:51pm
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Thanks Pam! We have decided just to purchase a cheetah and see how it is on this system. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks for taking the time to help.
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Old 2006-11-15, 7:00pm
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I run my Cuda on two 5 lpm concentrators and I am very happy with it...

I also have a Lynx which I might be selling so I can upgrade to a Cheetah which I will run on the same concentrators...
I like switching torches as much as I like playing with different types of glass
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Old 2006-11-16, 12:00am
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Whisker Wood, Have you run your cuda on a tank to tast the difference? I think my lynx will be up for sale sometime soon as well. I just ordered my cheetah and hope to see it eairly next week. I will post on it's performance.
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Old 2006-11-16, 12:27am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LT View Post
Whisker Wood, Have you run your cuda on a tank to tast the difference? I think my lynx will be up for sale sometime soon as well. I just ordered my cheetah and hope to see it eairly next week. I will post on it's performance.

I have and it is great!
I wish I could use tanks all the time but oxycons are just better for me at this point.
Someday in my dream studio I will have at least three torches set up: one for boro, one for BE, one for 104 COEs and I will have tanked oxy for all!
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Old 2006-11-19, 8:20pm
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Well after much deliberation I have decided to purchase a cheetah. After all Pam said I decided I needed to give it a try. I got it in the other day and hooked it up. I think it runs at about 75% on the 2 OG15's. I haven't hooked it up to a tank to see just how much power it has. I like it alot so far, but it will take some getting used to. Thanks for all the info everyone!!!
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