What to look for in choosing a kiln for Slumping & Fusing?

[GlassGalore]

I think I want to get into Slumping (beads and other forms) and possibly Fusing tiles. What should I consider / look for in choosing a kiln for these uses?

I already know that:

A) I want one that will run on 120V house current.
B) I will not use it for bead annealing.
C) I'm pretty sure I want a square shaped one to maximize the space utilization when doing tiles.

Do I want top load or front load?
What Max temp?
What other features to look for or avoid?
Is there a particular model you recommend?

[lindag]

I had a 23" Evenheat. It was octagon shaped but that didn't seem to cause a problem. Mine was a top loader and I liked it. Next time I might look into a clam shell. You definitely want a digital controller. Get one bigger/deeper than you think you'll need. A peep hole is helpful. Keep a firing journal. I wish I could be more help, I only had mine a short while and had to sell it. Evenheat has a smaller studio series, look at them.

[Melanie_M]

I'm a Skutt kiln fan (I have 2). Look on their web page for the different types, and you can do a little quiz to help decide which model you want. I love the digital programmable controller. I agree with the other poster - get one bigger than you think you need - if you enjoy fusing and slumping, you'll want to make bigger items.

If you will not be making deep items, then I would suggest a clam-shell type kiln. If you are making tiles or casting, a clam shell is easier to load.

[karin]

Get the biggest one you can possibly afford. If possible, then get the next size up.
Same with depth - you'll be wanting to do pot melts before you know it, and you need the height.
ABSOLUTELY get an electronic controller. Preferably one that has digit keys, not just an up and down button to set the temp. At least 4 user programs so you don't have to be changing it every time you fire.
Window is good. Lid lifter is good if you go all out and get a really big one
Elements in the lid actually are better for fusing (otherwise it heats from the sides and the edges fuse first, causing bubbles to be trapped.) Mine lets you select.
Top loading is good if you ever want to do raking.
1700 minimum for a high temp, preferably higher so you don't have to worry about killing elements doing said pot melts.

I have three kilns at this point. A paragon fusing/annealing kiln, which is long, has a clam shell lid, and 2 bead doors. That was my first one - it's great for beads, and is what I start fusing in, but quickly outgrew. Even works for enameling - at least the first side, since you can use the bead door when it's just a rack, but hard to open the lid, remove the trivet, close the lid so you don't lose all the heat, without dumping the enamelled piece somewhere along the way. The controller is one with just the up and down button for setting, and it's a pain in the butt to change. Goes up to 1800 I think.

My second kiln is a Jen Ken 25" octagon, 15" deep. Will hold a 24" square piece, and has a single shelf, which is really nice (and somewhat unusual for a kiln that size.) Has elements in the sides and in the lid, you can select which you want to use (or both), and can be programmed every way from Sunday with a very nice Orton controller. It is however a big sucker and my dh had to put in a new panel board in the garage for it, and it's definitely not house current.

My third one is a Paragon front loader, 8x8x8, purchased for enamelling, although I may try some smaller fusing pieces in it. Elements on the sides only, controller with the up and down buttons (not such a big deal on this one since all I need it to do is go to 1450 and hold), but does have several user programs. Runs on household current, same as the first one.

[Beckah]

1. Square or rectangular will offer the maximum amount of fusing space.
2. Elements in the top is better than side elements. Top elements give a more even heating for glass. I like top loading because I can double-check everything better after I've moved the tray to the kiln.
3. Most glass kilns top out at 1700, which is more than is needed for fusing/slumping.
4. The kiln doesn't need to be very tall 4-6" is fine unless you are planning to do vase type slumping or pot melts.

I'm partial to Paragon but asking which brand is like asking whether a Minor, MiniCC or a Cricket is the best torch. People tend to like what they have.

Also check Warmglass.com for more than you ever wanted to know about fusing kilns.

[Three Muses Glass]

Here's a link to Clay King's page of 120 volt kilns. The Skutt FireBox 14 looks very interesting!
http://www.clay-king.com/smallkilns.htm

ETA- Do you know of this place? They are in NH. http://www.centredeverre.com/
They may have kins in stock for you to go see and/or buy.
I used to buy things from them quite often.

[GlassGalore]

Thanks for all the tips so far!

Rebecca, yes, I do know of CDV and took a look at their selection earlier today. Thank you! (Since I don't know exactly what I'm looking for yet, I came here next. )Will go back and check them out once I hear some more feedback.

Being able to pick one up locally might save some $ on shipping costs too.

[SilverReflections]

I'll chime in and say I had good luck fusing with my jen-Ken until I outgrew the small bead door when I used it fo beads. I like the top loader for fusing as well.

Tina