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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #1  
Old 2012-06-30, 11:42am
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Default COE 33 Dichro

I got some free COE33 dichro last time I ordered COE104 dichro from ABR. I tried to use it today and it looks more like snow than dichro. I was very careful not to put the coating side towards the flame, but I suspect that I overcooked it anyway. I've never had this problem with COE104, any ideas as to what I'm doing wrong?
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Old 2012-06-30, 12:36pm
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Not sure if I'll be much help. But I have the bad habit of burning the edges even if I keep the coated side out of the flame. I've gotten where I coat the edges with a 3mm rod before I try to work it any further in the flame.

Dave at ABR also suggested heating and folding it on itself and then coating the edges and pulling down to a stringer.

Not sure how you are trying to use it or if any of that will be any help at all.

But if I see snow, it is usually ash from burning the dichro.
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Old 2012-06-30, 12:50pm
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Thanks, that's kind of what I thought.
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Old 2012-06-30, 6:20pm
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Hi Roy,

I have found that the is a huge difference in quality depending on whose dichro you are using.

When I first switched to boro I tried out some bargain stuf rand never got any color out of it. But once I started using CBS premium grade dichro I was able to start to get a lot better results.

Erik
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  #5  
Old 2012-06-30, 6:58pm
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If that Dichro is jumping up in pieces Its the new Boro Dichro that CBS makes
All TG Dichro from Trev's Glass is made for us by CBS.. Coated with double colors that Trev likes but I wonder if you were given this new dichro.
Here is a picture of it.
Our is called Lavender fields
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  #6  
Old 2012-06-30, 10:57pm
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That is gorgeous!
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Old 2012-07-01, 3:32am
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Its not Dichro on copper. Its on a 2mm smooth boro substrate, even the dichro is smooth. I'll play with it some more, and be extra careful.
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Old 2012-07-01, 3:35am
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Hot damn Phyllis - that's a gorgeous piece!
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Old 2012-07-01, 5:51am
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Squeeeee! They make crinkle dichro in boro now?!? It's so pretty.

Roy, boro dichro and soft glass dichro are worlds apart. You'd think the harder glass could take more heat and be fine. Not! It takes practice and lots of it I think to not get it crispy. Still working on it here.
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Old 2012-07-01, 9:11am
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How I was instructed/what I've seen in demos, and what I've done the 3 times I've worked boro dichro successfully:

Cut dichro piece to desired size. Clean thoroughly and handle with tweezers only. Place in kiln to preheat. When applying, gently bathe only the uncoated size in soft flame to adhere to piece.

Finishing:
1. (beginner) Using a 4mm rod of clear heated white hot, seal the edges of the dichro, being careful to keep the dichro itself out of the flame.

2. (advanced) Gently warming the applied dichro piece, work the clear substrate from the center outward and the over the edges, sealing the dichro coating. Basically use the clear from the dichro to seal the edges by heating it and smooshing it over.
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  #11  
Old 2012-07-01, 9:22am
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I have been playing around with some dicro this week and I did have more success after I turned down the oxygen and worked it in a soft bushy flame until it was protected by a layer of clear.
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  #12  
Old 2012-07-01, 10:02am
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When I started working dichro in soft glass I thought, "what was all the fuss and difficult about?" Now I know. I don't have any 4mm clear, I'll ahve to use 6mm or 7mm. I'll try the soft bushy flame too, kinda like working soft glass.
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Old 2012-07-01, 10:32am
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I have been having the same issue, I use the 3mm edge seal techinque but I still get the burnt bit in some of the piece.
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Old 2012-07-01, 12:19pm
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I preheat at 950 and then pick it up on a clear punty. I introduce the whole back non coated side in a soft neutral flame and fold the sheet over onto itself trapping the coating inside. I also stripe the sides with clear and then use I use it as I would any other. I have been using the Starship and splinter from ABR with success. Keep in mind that you can overheat the coating even though it is encased. Work fast and cool.
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Old 2012-07-01, 12:55pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryC View Post
... Keep in mind that you can overheat the coating even though it is encased. Work fast and cool.
So no heating the gather white hot. I think that's my problem.
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Old 2012-07-01, 1:04pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonharper View Post
So no heating the gather white hot. I think that's my problem.
That is most likely it. Also, some coatings are more forgiving than others. In my experience it has nothing to do with price etc. Some effects are best achieved with thinner coatings. As always you have to experiment to find one that works in a given application.
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Old 2012-07-02, 11:27am
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Bottom line is, the coating must be protected immediately, and fully. So, you can run color or clear down the coated side. You must angle the coating rod in a way that only the rod using to coat is hit by the flame. Sounds tough, but not really.


The foldover technique works wonderfully as well. Either way, you must protect it immediately. From there, it's all about not using to much oxy, and not cooking it too quickly. Nice, steady, even heat is the key here.


Phyliss, I think that dichro you posted is the Crinkle dichro. At least it looks just like it. We don't sell a ton of it, but those who have discovered it's uses are crazy for it. It is much better when used in a non stretching application. It can get a bit scattered when stretched in stringers or ribbons, or when twisted up for a marble or whatever.
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  #18  
Old 2012-07-03, 3:34am
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Thanks Dave. Next time I get a chance to torch I'll try that.
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