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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2015-05-19, 9:49am
Frogger1950 Frogger1950 is offline
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Default Two newbie questions

I have a Hot Head I bought in a kit with rods, etc. I'd like to get a torch such as the Minor Bench Burner and am looking at an outfit on the Sundance site. I'm currently planning on making beads, etc. with COE 104 glass. (1) Do I need spark arrestors for a surface mix torch? (2) Any suggestion for what type of glasses to order (I currently use reading glasses for up close)? Are the Didymium adequate or are the Green ACE a better choice (or is it just personal preference)? Thanks in advance, Steve
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  #2  
Old 2015-05-19, 10:32am
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shawnette shawnette is offline
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The Sundance kits are overpriced. You'd be better getting it separate. If you're going to work 104, then Didymium (ACE) is what you need. The Green Ace is for Boro. You might want to get fitovers, to go over your readers, but I just use stick on lenses (Hydrotac). You don't need flashbacks for surface mix torches, but it's never a bad idea to get them. Better safe than sorry.
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  #3  
Old 2015-05-19, 11:55am
Frogger1950 Frogger1950 is offline
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Any suggestions on other (less expensive) sources? My only concern is regulators.....I've heard the cheaper ones aren't as safe but have no personal experience with them. Thanks for the reply!
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  #4  
Old 2015-05-19, 12:51pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frogger1950 View Post
Any suggestions on other (less expensive) sources? My only concern is regulators.....I've heard the cheaper ones aren't as safe but have no personal experience with them. Thanks for the reply!
I've used a Harbor Freight regulators for years and they've worked just fine and only cost about $30 each.

http://www.devardiglass.com/Torches.htm

Good prices on hoses & regulators, which are actually the same as the regulators I got from Harbor Freight. You can also pick up most of your other needs from this site, as well. Be wary of the glass as it is SUPER shocky and requires preheating.

I'd also look at picking up a used torch, if possible, but the Minor, itself, is only about $170, new. You can often find them for around $100-125, used. They're work horses and last forever, if cared for properly.
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  #5  
Old 2015-05-19, 2:52pm
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Check out the Spartan torch from Devardi...got it for my grandson and he loves it. Can even do small boro. At less than $100 it is a deal. I also got him the hoses and regulator set and he has been using them daily for over a month and no problems. Besides the hose is a "T" which is propane rated.
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  #6  
Old 2015-05-20, 4:56am
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You need good lamp working glasses or you are burning your eyes out! Do you have dedicated ventilation? If you don't then you could be poisoning yourself and others in your home if you torch inside. Please do some research into safe lamp working and enjoy your new addiction! Pm me if you have any questions or need any help. I work boro and never made a bead but I can help with studio set up and safety stuff
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  #7  
Old 2015-05-20, 6:44am
Frogger1950 Frogger1950 is offline
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Thanks for all the info. I've not done a lot of beadwork so far but it's been done with the Hothead, no safety glasses or proper ventilation. I've been doing a lot of internet research and want to do it better this second time around.
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  #8  
Old 2015-05-20, 9:35am
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Think about getting the Mega Minor instead of the minor. I love its' wider flame and it's capable of adjusting to a fine path as well. For only a few bucks more, it's worth it.
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  #9  
Old 2015-05-20, 11:07am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnette View Post
The Sundance kits are overpriced. You'd be better getting it separate. If you're going to work 104, then Didymium (ACE) is what you need. The Green Ace is for Boro. You might want to get fitovers, to go over your readers, but I just use stick on lenses (Hydrotac). You don't need flashbacks for surface mix torches, but it's never a bad idea to get them. Better safe than sorry.
The nice thing about the stick on lenses is you can change strength if needed, same with the fitovers. That being said, Sundance sells one line with the magnification already built in. I've had a pair of 1.5 strength for years, I think the frame is called Uptown?, and love them. My eyes, however, are telling me it is time to order them in a higher strength.

The hothead is not a bad torch, just noisy, reducing and limited glass working size. It's a great torch to learn on, and some bead makers have chosen to never switch to a gas/oxy system. Unless you want to work boro or giant beads right away, I would recommend spending your money on good ventilation, a kiln and good eye protection first. Oh, and more glass. It will also give you time to research torches because they are a very personal choice based on many factors including working style, glass used, gas used and oxy source. Some torches have driving heat, others more radiant. I find radiant helpful for sculptural, hollows and very long tube beads. I find driving helpful for boro and creating very large gathers.

I personally love the convienence of using household natural gas and concentrators, so have chosen torches that work well with those (scorpion and beta). There are a few sacrifices with this setup, but the benefits, for me, far outweigh the drawbacks. My studio is also set up for propane with a Lynx, but never seem to pull it out since I just don't like the hassle of dealing with propane tanks.

Please, safety first!
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  #10  
Old 2015-05-20, 11:20am
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Kathy, you can use a Lynx on natural gas, in case you didn't realize it. I use my Phantom on natural gas. No need to hook up propane tanks, if you already have natural gas lines run.
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  #11  
Old 2015-05-20, 10:15pm
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Kathy, you can use a Lynx on natural gas, in case you didn't realize it. I use my Phantom on natural gas. No need to hook up propane tanks, if you already have natural gas lines run.
Tried it, but the results were disappointing with the pressure of our household gas without a booster. I really do prefer working on the scorpion anyway, although the Lynx is nice, I like having the outer ring available when needed. I didn't realize a Phantom would run on HH NG. Perhaps the pressure delivered to your house is higher than mine. Bet that is a sweet torch!
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  #12  
Old 2015-05-20, 10:24pm
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I have to mention the option of a didymium or ACE bench shield.

I worked with fit overs and my regular glasses to start because they were $60 verses the $200 or more wanted for bench shield 8 years ago.

The fit overs were a minor pain in the butt but the addiction had not kicked into full gear yet.

I stumbled on to a craigs list add from across the country and got a bench shield for under $100 and I have to tell you it is a whole 'nother way of melting glass.

These days the cost of the better eye wear is just about even with the cost of a bench shield but the difference while you are working is well worth the extra time to find one.



OH and Welcome to the addiction !
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  #13  
Old 2015-05-24, 6:18pm
Frogger1950 Frogger1950 is offline
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I have another question. I'm looking at getting some COE104 glass to start playing around and will probably start with Moretti. There are "starter packs" with X-number of rods for X-number of $$. I guess the million-dollar question is approximately how many standard rods are in a pound (I know there are different diameters and lengths)? Is there some sort of standard? Thanks in advance, Steve
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Old 2015-05-25, 4:07am
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The average lb of 5-6mm Moretti glass will contain about 20-22 rods, give or take a couple depending on diameter, as you said.
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  #15  
Old 2015-05-25, 4:09am
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I want to say a pound of rods some 13 inches long is about the size of a roll of nickels but my addiction has been real slow to develop so I could be off the mark.
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  #16  
Old 2015-05-25, 5:59am
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That'd be a quarter pound probably Phil, at least in boro lol
I'd say a pound bundle especially for shorter rods would be about half dollar sized
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  #17  
Old 2015-05-25, 6:51am
Frogger1950 Frogger1950 is offline
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The reason I asked was that Sundance, for instance, has an Effetre-Moretti Starter pack of 30 rods for $29 or approx. $1.00 per rod. Single rods start at $10 per pound so at 20 rods per pound that's about 50 cents apiece. I really don't have a preference of color at this point....just practicing material but it sounds like buying singles are a much better deal (half). You can buy in lots of 1/4 pound for $2.50 so that's probably the way I'll go. Thanks to all for the info.
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  #18  
Old 2015-05-25, 6:55am
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Thanks Jeremy.
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  #19  
Old 2015-05-25, 7:05am
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Aye,

Bundled sets are one way to get a fist full of various colors to spark your imagination but quantity buys will get you the best bang for your buck.

Alot of us picked up the "starter packs" when we were still deciding just how far we were going to allow this addiction to consume out bank accounts.

Some have jumped in with both feet and go for the kilo and half kilo purchases because we knew we would use the all up eventually.

Don't forget to list your address in the RAOGK (Random Acts Of Glass Kindness) area so those of us that know -now- that we are never ever going to use up the 12 pounds that one color that we got on sale can spread some of our good fortune around to the new glass junkies ... ahm...upcoming artists.
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Old 2015-05-25, 2:56pm
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Check out Howacoglass.com they have great prices on glass. You can check out the garage sale here too for glass and used torches.
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  #21  
Old 2015-05-25, 3:18pm
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Oh and troll Craigs list on occasion.

Sometimes someone will lose the addiction and want to find a new home for a ton of stuff at a heavy discount just to clear out a studio.
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Old 2015-05-25, 3:43pm
Frogger1950 Frogger1950 is offline
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Been on Ebay.....is most of the glass made from the same places? Is there any to particularly stay away from?
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  #23  
Old 2015-05-25, 3:56pm
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Devardi is shocky and takes a bit of getting used to but the prices are nice.

Some people get pretty freaked out by it because it can do the exploding hot glass trick on you and it is not a pleasant experience the first half dozen times.
Preheating helps with that.

There are some threads here abouts about the softness of one maker over the stiffness of another.

You can chase them up by searching for "cracking" issues. I have heard that Chec glass can be stiffer but I have no experience with it.

You can learn a lot by searching for the classic "which is the best clear".
It can be a bit of a sore point for some and the manufactures have tweaked the formulas over the years so what was giving some one grief 5 years ago may be the "bees knees" now.
Add to that when I buy a pound of clear glass I am probably going to be using that same pound 4 years from now because I don't make a lot of beads.
But some of our more prolific lampworkers can go through pound of clear in a week easy.

So the answer to your questions is yes and no.

Hopefully someone else will add some more thoughts.
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