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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions. |
2011-10-20, 6:24pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 26, 2006
Location: Vancouver Washington
Posts: 3,986
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HELP!! I am having a hard time mixing color.
I am having a hard time when I am mixing color with clear or when I am mixing 2 colors. The colors are not as bad as when I am mixing color.
When I start swirling and smashing I get to much clear in it. when I push the 2 rods together it just keeps pulling more clear. I try to keep the heat away from the clear but it does not seam to matter.
Why am I having such a hard time with this it is not rocket science.
I would appreciate any tips
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Lori
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2011-10-20, 7:12pm
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senior citizen lampworker
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Join Date: May 27, 2006
Location: Sulphur Springs, TX (near Dallas)
Posts: 227
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the way i mix colors and clear is to run a bead of one color onto the other color. like you are putting down a welding bead. swirl those two together for a while then turn one of your rods 90 degrees from each other, and keep swrilling while they are at right angles to each other. swrilling them on differant axis from each other helps mix the glass. straighten it out and repeat as needed. as it mixes you can add colors to get the effect you are looking for.
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2011-10-20, 7:39pm
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Borovangelist
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Join Date: Jan 26, 2007
Location: Auburn, MA
Posts: 3,002
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Just a word of advice, if you finally get frustrated and go for the drill? Be careful, it's really easy to lose your grip, leaving you with a whirling hot glass propeller of death.
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-Tom
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2011-10-20, 7:49pm
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Wonder-wench
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Join Date: Aug 09, 2010
Location: land of milk & honey
Posts: 1,104
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oh no, the mental image of "whirling hot propeller of death" may give me nightmares and permanently deter me from reaching for the drill
thanks for the safety tip!
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Elizabeth
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2011-10-20, 7:53pm
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 02, 2010
Location: South East Kansas
Posts: 62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by menty666
Just a word of advice, if you finally get frustrated and go for the drill? Be careful, it's really easy to lose your grip, leaving you with a whirling hot glass propeller of death.
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Repped if I could.
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2011-10-21, 7:03am
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Pyromaniac
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Join Date: Jun 27, 2006
Location: Out there on the interwebs
Posts: 1,784
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Hell I facebooked that isht
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Chris Scala
Fortune Cookie say, "When things go wrong, don't go with them!"
Current Glass-Melting Apparatus:
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2011-10-21, 7:06am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 07, 2011
Location: Northern California
Posts: 2,023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by menty666
Just a word of advice, if you finally get frustrated and go for the drill? Be careful, it's really easy to lose your grip, leaving you with a whirling hot glass propeller of death.
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I am suddenly feeling strangely inspired
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2011-10-21, 7:15am
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Borovangelist
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Join Date: Jan 26, 2007
Location: Auburn, MA
Posts: 3,002
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LOL
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-Tom
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2011-10-21, 3:23pm
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Curmudgeon Engineering
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Join Date: Feb 15, 2006
Location: Near Seattle, WA
Posts: 1,723
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"Whirling Propellor of Death" What a challenge... whohooooo!
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2011-10-21, 3:37pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 21, 2006
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 2,807
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since the clear tends to be softer, you could just add the amount of clear you want to the colored rod and then use a thick ss punty as one end for mixing.
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Lynda
Cheetah, 5 lpm and 7lpm conc/generator (8-9 psi), natural gas (booster), started 11/06
"The time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time." -- Bertrand Russell
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2011-10-22, 1:51am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 26, 2006
Location: Vancouver Washington
Posts: 3,986
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OMG Tom!! This cracked me up
Lynda, I will try the SS punty it might help. The last time I tried that with boro the punty would not stick at all so I figured that it did not work with Boro. Maybe I did not get the mandrel hot enough.
Thanks so much keep the tips coming
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Lori
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2011-10-22, 2:54am
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Alaska Boro
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Join Date: Dec 10, 2009
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 1,065
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Have used a 1/4 inch SS punty. Heat the end red hot and get the glass very hot for boro. It will just weld itself to the SS.
A 9 mm boro clear with a few stripes of color will work. Put the SS punty in a drill. A Dewalt battery drill set for the slow mode (driving screws - setting 1) and keeping the RMP low does the trick. Push the glass back and forth and it will mix.
My overall impressions it that it is a lot of work (heavy drill) and difficult to obtain exact colors. And the mixture is not homogeneous. Perhaps close, but will require more mixing.
It is a fun experiment....
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2011-10-22, 12:24pm
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Borovangelist
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Join Date: Jan 26, 2007
Location: Auburn, MA
Posts: 3,002
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I use a cheap corded drill from harbor freight. It was fairly lighter weight because of the lack of a battery pack, it it's still not for the faint of heart.
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-Tom
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2011-10-23, 3:34pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 26, 2006
Location: Vancouver Washington
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I am just trying to mix some color with the clear, The drill just scares me.
But I might have to try it if I keep having a problem.
Do you think that a dremel would work?
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Lori
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2011-10-23, 3:44pm
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 02, 2010
Location: South East Kansas
Posts: 62
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Definetly (sp)? not. Too high rpm.
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2011-10-24, 10:17am
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Borovangelist
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Join Date: Jan 26, 2007
Location: Auburn, MA
Posts: 3,002
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yeah, that wouldn't go well
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-Tom
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2011-10-24, 12:57pm
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Alaska Boro
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Join Date: Dec 10, 2009
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 1,065
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Agree, Dremel is a big NO. One needs low speed and high torque.
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2011-10-24, 5:14pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 06, 2005
Location: Austin - Texas
Posts: 2,708
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Also, most boro color does not blend well and play nicely with each other the way softglass does. I have tried to blend colors for boro murrine they way I did for softglass murrine and have been very disappointed.
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Eric
The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing. ---- Albert Einstein
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2011-11-01, 6:09pm
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Fire and Fluidity
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Join Date: Jun 23, 2005
Location: Newport Oregon
Posts: 686
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I use a drill for mixing to avoid carpal tunnel problems. Much easier on my wrists. I use a Makita that has a short head, one of those types that you can get between joists to drill holes, the leverage seems to be better than the standard gun shape.
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