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Jelveh Designs - Glass Beads Torched One-by-One

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  #211  
Old 2014-04-28, 8:39am
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Hello LynieG, I think I can shed some light on your problems with those colors, NS Blue, Blue Moon, Alaska Thunder. Thru the years I have settled on certain colors for floral compressions, some work well, some do not work so well for this purpose. It's not really you or the torch, those colors NS Blue, Blue Moon, Alaska Thunder do not work well for me either. If I want blue I like to use non silver colors. I make floral canes from colors like indian purple, hyacinth, colors like that. The trick to a pretty blue is to start with a base opaque color and coat it with turbo cobalt and pull it out for your floral cane. Almost all my floral canes are 2 or 3 glass colors layered and pulled out. Try hyacinth and coat it with turbo cobalt pull it out and see how you like that. For lighter blue I like chinese white that has been premixed well, coated with the turbo cobalt. The blue colors can be so dark that they don't show up well, ( too dark) for florals, so you need to back them with something that brings them out. And then there are other issues (refer to post 199 in this thread) about crystal growth that can occur.
There are few colors that I can use alone - as is - for a petal cane. Carmel is one of them, love carmel for petals. In you pictures the green on some of the flowers has compatibility problems, that's why you are seeing that effect around the edges. There are a few greens that don't do that, indian green is the one I use mainly. If I want it darker, I coat it with turbo cobalt. Hope this helps.
Here is a nice blue for petals, it's aqua with turbo cobalt over. The green is shamrock & indian green.
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  #212  
Old 2014-05-01, 8:58am
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Hi Mary! Thank you so much for this info! Glad to hear that we aren't struggling with this in vein! He can now quit beating his head against the wall knowing it's not him LOL! We are ordering a few of these colors at the same time as we order our torch as he is still building up his color pallet. He has only been doing florals since Jan and learning a TON!

Appriecate all the help you have given in this thread and others! We really admire your work!

PS He wants to know if you give classes!
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  #213  
Old 2014-05-01, 3:30pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LynieG View Post
Hi Mary! Thank you so much for this info! Glad to hear that we aren't struggling with this in vein! He can now quit beating his head against the wall knowing it's not him LOL! We are ordering a few of these colors at the same time as we order our torch as he is still building up his color pallet. He has only been doing florals since Jan and learning a TON!

Appriecate all the help you have given in this thread and others! We really admire your work!

PS He wants to know if you give classes!
Glad I can help you a little. I have never given any classes, don't know if I really am qualified to do that, I am still a student. That blue moon you have, that makes a cool jellyfish tentacle color, top it with more blue moon and dip the cap in some paparazzi frit before you but the top glass on, it's great for that. Keep posting your pictures, and feel free to like my glass page on facebook if you have a facebook acc, you can follow my work there, as well.
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  #214  
Old 2014-06-01, 8:17pm
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Hi Mary. I'm looking for a bit of insight. I'm new to glassworks and love the implosion/compressions but have some trouble with the finish. I don't know if I just don't have the right tools or if I'm doing something wrong with the lense or both. I have attached a pic or two. I think I'm getting the depth on the compression for the petals but I think the stamens are getting smoothed and I can't get a smooth rounded lense.

Is ther a special tool that is needed when you separate the rod to do the finishing work?

Thank you for any assistance and advice. Oh and I don't use boro yet...just soft glass

Becky

Ps I can't get two pics to upload from my iPad so will post theh side view in a minite
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  #215  
Old 2014-06-01, 8:18pm
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  #216  
Old 2014-06-01, 8:47pm
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Hi Becky ~ I can't really help you with soft glass, I only made beads with soft glass. I do not think it is much fun anymore, so I have decided to sell it. It is so different from boro, I don't think I would have much luck making compressions with soft glass. My advise is either make beads with the soft glass, or get some boro, if you have enough torch to melt it, is that a cricket? The key to being happy with working with boro is having a torch that will melt it fast enough to make it fun, and then years of practice. There are no special tools to make things work better, I use a small paddle, and a simple reamer to shape the bail, and a few simple tools to make indentations in design, but it's really just practice, getting to know the glass. You need to punty the back of the pendant to separate it, but really the problems you are having I think are because it's not boro, boro is better for pendant making, at least for me.
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  #217  
Old 2014-06-01, 9:03pm
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Thank you Mary. Yes that is a cricket...I use it with natural gas and a concentrator. May have to go to tanked oxy and propane of I get boro.

Thank you again. Your work is beautiful

Becky
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  #218  
Old 2014-06-02, 7:02pm
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Realistically Becky, until you get more torch than a cricket, you will be a lot less frustrated if you stick with soft glass. People will say they work boro with a cricket, but it will be slow, and you will not be able to get the heat you need to really make something. The center fire of my scorpion is a cricket, and I only use it alone to apply small dots and to heat an area to be tooled, but if that was all I had........no I would be unhappy. Once you move to boro, it's all about always wanting a bigger torch so you can do more. I have so much arthritis in my hands and wrists from years of spinning glass, that I realized I can not go bigger than my scorpion, my tired old wrists would not take the weight of a bigger heavier piece.
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  #219  
Old 2015-04-27, 2:36pm
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Hello everyone. I love this thread, many beautiful flowers to see and a lot to learn for me ! Thank you very much
This is a flower I made 3 days ago with 3 layers of fume, first one only with gold and the rest with variations of gold with silver.

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  #220  
Old 2015-04-27, 3:17pm
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That is very lovely Lezi. Have you thought of using well mixed china white instead of clear when you do your fuming? have seen some beautiful flowers done that way.
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  #221  
Old 2015-04-28, 10:31am
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Thanks Mary ....and yes, two weeks ago I tried to make a rose pendant with Snow white and gold. I made only 2 because the colour I have is the sample pack I bought from GA when I started 3 months ago. In my next purchase I will add white colour to do more, I would like to improve my floral technique.
This is the best attempt I made and the colour of the petals came out very nice.

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  #222  
Old 2015-05-13, 8:04am
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I love this thread! Thank you Mary so much.

A friend Of my daughters is graduating in a few weeks and I want to make her a sunflower pendant. I'm at a loss for the design on the Maria, to get the overlapping long petals, and short seeds in the middle. Any advice?

Thanks in advance.
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  #223  
Old 2015-05-14, 11:27am
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Lana, for a sunflower design I would make a stamen cane of indian (glasstronics) dark green with jet layered over it and pulled out to a point, like a pencil with a long tip, you can keep pulling more out as you need it, but one point is enough for one pendant. that will be your seeds in the middle. Then you need caramel pulled out to about a 2mm or 3mm stringer.
Press your maria out. Do you have a marver on your torch? if you do you can lay the maria sideways on it and use a paddle to make the maria flatter and a little wider, I like to do this for a design of this sort. Do you understand what I mean? If not, just go with what you have.
start your design in the middle lay lots of small dots of the stamen cane, cover most of the middle leaving room for your petals. You can make a sunflower with only one row of petals, or you could do two depending on the size of your maria, but I would go with one for the first try. Lay small lines of caramel around the edge of the maria, just straight lines. Make them as even as possible, but not necessary to be perfect, as flowers are not. heat them and using a small blade scripto knife indent each one with a slight pull to the outside edge, just a slight pull, and try to do each one at the same depth so some petals don't expand more than others. After you do that, pick up your stamen cane and do a few more dots getting as close to the petals as you can. your maria will look like it is all dots, with only a small layer of petals around the edge. heat and compress as usual, remember with a pendant you don't have to get a terminated flower as you won't see it from behind like a marble flower. Then I usually give my florals a dip in fine paparazzi frit and then small shamrock frit for the look of moss in the backround. Finish with a bail of jet and there you go. I make a lot of these for summer, very popular. Any more questions please ask.
Remember to turn your flame down small to make the tiny dots, you want to keep control.
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  #224  
Old 2015-05-15, 7:42am
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Ok thank you so much for the detailed description. I will work on it today and make sure I have a lot if space to work with on the Maria. I am wondering how the dots stay small and the lines go long and flat, but maybe I will understand more once I do it. I know with most flowers, I try to get the petals more upright and into the dome, but that's not what a sunflower looks like. I'll post some pics soon hopefully!
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  #225  
Old 2015-05-15, 4:46pm
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Here's my attempt. I didn't have all the colors so I winged it with forest green coated in Jet black for stamens and Yellow Flavor Experimental for the petals. I think I need to add the petals farther out on the Maria? Also some stamens really elongated and others stayed short.
Any ideas?

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  #226  
Old 2015-05-15, 4:58pm
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I have found that different boro colors have what I call different "speeds" some will melt faster and flow faster, forest green is a little softer , so maybe that is why. also your coat of jet may need to be thicker to slow things down. turned out pretty anyways! do you have caramel?
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  #227  
Old 2015-05-15, 5:02pm
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I don't. I tried Carmel luster and got too much blue and purple.
I think I'll order some Caramel.

Btw here's the pattern I used:

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  #228  
Old 2015-05-16, 5:11pm
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hey lana
if that work out for you great, if you want to try a different way here how my sunflowers look.



what i do different i put the row of petal way to the outside of the maria and than start imploding and when i do a push an the hole between the petals is down to 9-7 mm then i put a big dot of momka brown sparkle (or Challenge Sunflower) in the center. being careful not touch the petal and go back to imploding and than at the end push the maria back really flat. the down side the color is stretch a lot so some colors can get transparent, that why i ran the whiteout up in the yellow. i will have to try a double row of petals.
or i guess i am saying if the center coming up to far wait and put it on later after you have imploded the petals some.
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  #229  
Old 2015-05-16, 8:17pm
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Lana, your petals should be on the edge, right on the edge. Here is a sunflower I have done, and a few other florals as well.


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  #230  
Old 2015-05-17, 8:15am
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You are fantastic! Thanks Mary and Mike. I watched Cornings Kobuki video three times, consulted my tutorial from Ron Bearer Jr. and used a combo of your advice. I moved the petals out much farther and placed in a "V" shape.

It's looking better. I used parramore Sitka for the middle stamens and green with jet black for the outer stamens. The outer ones moved so much! Next time I'll do Sitka coated in jet black. They are both very stuff. And maybe cover the back of these stamens in a sparkle brown.

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  #231  
Old 2015-05-17, 9:44am
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Nice Lana, May I suggest that you make the bail on your pendant from Jet? It will accent your flower in a different way, I think you will like it. I love jet for bails/loops on my pendants, it is stiff, and easy to get it even. Do you have any sparklie frit or green frit? I love to do one dip of paparazzi small and then one dip of small shamrock then a couple dips of any kind of black, followed by another dip in jackpot frit, gives you an amazing looking backing.
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  #232  
Old 2015-05-17, 9:52am
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Thank you Mary! It's getting there but still not quite right. I'm going to order some other colors including Caramel and some Paparazzi frit. Jet is a great color! I have some experimental color called Exit from Oz that is a sparkly brown that would work really well for stamens.
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  #233  
Old 2015-05-17, 1:43pm
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Lana I like to make all my stamen canes layered, that way one glass will flow faster than the other and give the stamen a more life like look, it will have one color on the tip and one at the base. Here are some stamen that I really like:



The first one really shows what I am talking about the best I think.
I have also given these stamen a small push with a fine pic, if I had not,
they would have stayed lower and more rounded.
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  #234  
Old 2015-05-17, 4:41pm
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I see what you mean about the stamens, very cool. With the sunflower, I think it would work the best not to poke them since I want them to stay low.

One other question I have from reading this whole thread is that you mention laying down a line of color and then laying another line of a differend color on top of it. Do you mean you lay the second line directly on top of the first line basically covering the first line, or right next to it but slightly farther away from the center? Am I making sense?
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  #235  
Old 2015-05-17, 7:36pm
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Yes I think I understand your question Lana, the red flower right above your post is made from laying down a line of Asian red and then covering it ( right on top ) with a line of caramel. I like to do that a lot. But there are so many different ways to make petals. If you lay down a line and then lay the next line slightly farther away from center when it compresses it will be UNDER the first line. Mainly the reason I like to lay down a line and then cover it with another color is make the first color develop in a way that I am looking for. For instance, lay down a line of silver creek and then lay right on top of it a line of caramel and see what happens, I would either score it with an exacto knife, or push it into a curve with cuticle pushers, then slight score. ( cuticle pushers are one of my favorite tools!) Try these things Lana and post what you get! If you know how to strike the silver creek your results can be really pretty, hot pink.
Here is an example of line right above the first line, see how the dark blue goes under the top color?
the blue line was laid down right above the white line, not on the white but above it, further away from center.
now it is under the white! funny how that works out


both of these are line on top of line, one is asian red for first line and one is silver creek for first line, both are backed with caramel. Line on top of line.

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  #236  
Old 2015-05-17, 9:49pm
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Lana if you order get shamrock frit too, small.I also love turbo cobalt to back things with, small frit, or fine. Get Jack pot frit too, that is lovely as a finishing layer.
Glasstronics green if you can find some. great for stamens covered with jet. or shamrock covered with jet. Another nice combo is Asian white ( well mixed _ you know about that?)
covered with glasstronics green.
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  #237  
Old 2015-05-20, 7:41am
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Beautiful work in this thread!!! So many wonderful pendants! Here are a few color tests I did.

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  #238  
Old 2015-05-23, 9:39am
2xMI 2xMI is offline
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Holy cow! Such gorgeous work from everyone; so glad I found this thread.

Mimi
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  #239  
Old 2015-05-23, 5:14pm
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Mary K Mary K is offline
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Those are nice Heather, I love a big group like that, each one pretty.
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GTT Sidewinder & 3 Regalias

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  #240  
Old 2015-06-01, 2:17pm
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Lezi Lezi is offline
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Wow guys, you posted so many beautiful flowers ...thanks everyone !
I recently bought some China white and I tried to improve my roses...so here it is....Lezi vs Roses round 2





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