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Safety -- Make sure you are safe! |
2007-03-13, 4:50pm
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Rare Florida Native
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Join Date: Jan 20, 2007
Location: NW Florida
Posts: 1,512
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Glasscraft hood with exhaust fan for Lynx setup
Has anyone bought this setup from Glasscraft?
Just curious if you have as to the quality and function.
http://www.glasscraftinc.com/product...m?part_id=7157
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Charlotte
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2007-03-13, 4:54pm
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Rare Florida Native
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Join Date: Jan 20, 2007
Location: NW Florida
Posts: 1,512
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Thinking of purchasing it - not using the flexible duct that is included of course since my duct length would only be about 1.5 - 2 ft. to the wall to vent out.
A 700 cfm exhaust from Broan is $315 - then have to buy the rest of the parts....
Thanks for any input.
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Charlotte
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2007-03-13, 8:11pm
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da General
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Join Date: Oct 05, 2006
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 13,002
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Hi Charlotte,
I have this setup and it needs an enclosure - I just have a sheet of sheet metal bent twice and stuck it under the hood so the sides and back come all the way down to the table top. It seems to be adequate with that - sometimes I wish I had a bigger fan tho. Let me know if you want me to take a photo.
Mike Aurelius helped me calculate the ratio - without the enclosure, you will have to put the hood not more than 30" from the table top and even that is "marginal" according to Mike.
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Hayley
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2007-03-14, 12:28am
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Member
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Join Date: Jul 17, 2006
Posts: 90
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I have this set up and if I would've known the actual cfm when hooked up that they don't tell you up front, I would have never gotten it. I have yet to see smoke from a greasy lit piece of paper go up it and I have it very close to my torch. It also has a spot where the fan is that you can slide a piece of metal in while not in use but when the fan is on and it's open the slot where the sheet metal slides in is an open hole for the fumes to come back out before traveling up the duct work. Have to say not the happiest w/ this set up. Plus the ribbed duct work, can't believe these were made for lampworkers.
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2007-03-14, 3:37am
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Knob Creek Glass
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Join Date: Aug 12, 2005
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 994
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I like mine. If I had to do it again, I would have had a slightly stronger fan. Mine has the hole for the fan in the back and is up against the outer wall, so I do not use the ducting. I would have sides, but do not like to feel enclosed.
It must work well. One day before Christmas when I was working on glass Christmas trees, DH called me to help him with something in the garage, 4 car. I said about 15 minutes to finish the tree. In 5 miutes, my gas detector started to holler. I turned everything off. Sniffed. And realized that it was not the propane, but car exhaust. He had pulled the cars in, turned them off, closed the garage door. The exhaust pulled the remaining exhaust into my studio (door partially open), and the alarm went off. The hood fan must work!!!! I am glad that I have it.
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2007-03-14, 5:04am
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Rare Florida Native
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Join Date: Jan 20, 2007
Location: NW Florida
Posts: 1,512
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Thanks for the input. If any one else has any please post.
I am looking at the hanging hood and not the exhaust they sell for the bench top.
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Charlotte
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2007-03-14, 6:43am
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Safety ALWAYS
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Join Date: Jun 10, 2005
Location: Sauk Rapids, Minnesota
Posts: 2,401
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The Glasscraft hood has a couple of strikes against it in my opinion:
1. Fan size is marginal for the size of the hood -- it's the bare minimum at 100 CFM per square foot. I'd like to see it at the higher 125 CFM per square foot before I'd recommend it to anyone.
2. It uses an in-line axial fan. These types of fans use air-over cooling, and if your airstream temp exceeds 140 degrees, the fan motor will burn out in short order. There have been reports of the glasscraft units burning out motors with large torches (GTT Mirage, Carlisle CC+ etc.). The fan supplied used to have plastic blades, those have since been replaced with metal blades for that reason.
3. It is supplied with flex ducting, which of course should never ever be used.
4. The exhaust outlet (suction hole) is on the end of the hood instead of the top at dead center. The makes the hood draw only from the one side instead of the full hood, so if your torch is off center to the wrong side, it won't draw properly. This can be fixed by using a baffle inside the hood, but the owner shouldn't have to do this IMO.
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2007-03-14, 7:40am
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Skeptical Optimist
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Join Date: Apr 02, 2006
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 656
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When I bought mine, the nice folks at Glasscraft advised me to get a fan at a home improvement store, since I was putting mine in the roof straight above me to be over the bench about 30". I've only hit my head on it once sitting there! I got a 1350 cfm 2 speed fan at Lowe's for $40 and had dh install the whole thing with I think 10" ducting straight up and bent once or twice before exiting the ceiling. Works GREAT and really sucks I use low if it's cold and i'm heatin my spot or high most all other times, I like the extra cfm. It is obvious it has good flow if you use a piece of incense or something like that, or when you wait too long to light the propane and it puffs into a cloud. It doesn't go back towards you, which is very nice Cheers!
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Patrice & Paul, Running a Mirage and Barracuda on a Pro-8.
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2007-03-14, 10:17am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 02, 2005
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 637
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here's what I did and I love it!!! Very $$ though. I bought the whole setup and i had my HVAC guy instal a furnace blower. That made a HUGE difference in the draw!! I also have 'extreme ducting' in place for fresh air intake. that also cost $$. All ducts are hard ducted, I ditched the flexible stuff. SO basically I was buying the hood only. and I think you could probably make one your self!!?? here are some pics. I am at work right now but will send along the pics of the INSIDE. These just show the outside and the very cool furnace blower.
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2007-03-14, 11:24am
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Rare Florida Native
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Join Date: Jan 20, 2007
Location: NW Florida
Posts: 1,512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeAurelius
The Glasscraft hood has a couple of strikes against it in my opinion:
1. Fan size is marginal for the size of the hood -- it's the bare minimum at 100 CFM per square foot. I'd like to see it at the higher 125 CFM per square foot before I'd recommend it to anyone.
2. It uses an in-line axial fan. These types of fans use air-over cooling, and if your airstream temp exceeds 140 degrees, the fan motor will burn out in short order. There have been reports of the glasscraft units burning out motors with large torches (GTT Mirage, Carlisle CC+ etc.). The fan supplied used to have plastic blades, those have since been replaced with metal blades for that reason.
3. It is supplied with flex ducting, which of course should never ever be used.
4. The exhaust outlet (suction hole) is on the end of the hood instead of the top at dead center. The makes the hood draw only from the one side instead of the full hood, so if your torch is off center to the wrong side, it won't draw properly. This can be fixed by using a baffle inside the hood, but the owner shouldn't have to do this IMO.
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Thank you so much for the input - Hayley said you have great advice.
I am having a local sheet metal guy make me a hood - he will have it ready this afternoon - I just went in to see him this morning
I am looking at an exhaust from a local building supply company and will used rigid duct work. I only have 1.5 - 2 feet to go out the wall.
Intake air will be from my north wall and I have a door with a screen door that can also be open.
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Charlotte
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2007-03-14, 11:25am
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Rare Florida Native
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Join Date: Jan 20, 2007
Location: NW Florida
Posts: 1,512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShepherdCreations
I got a 1350 cfm 2 speed fan at Lowe's for $40...
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I am off to check out Lowe's.
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Charlotte
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2007-03-14, 11:27am
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Rare Florida Native
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Join Date: Jan 20, 2007
Location: NW Florida
Posts: 1,512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheeky monkey
here's what I did and I love it!!! Very $$ though. I bought the whole setup and i had my HVAC guy instal a furnace blower. That made a HUGE difference in the draw!! I also have 'extreme ducting' in place for fresh air intake. that also cost $$. All ducts are hard ducted, I ditched the flexible stuff. SO basically I was buying the hood only. and I think you could probably make one your self!!?? here are some pics. I am at work right now but will send along the pics of the INSIDE. These just show the outside and the very cool furnace blower.
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I like your furnace blower Would love to see the inside pictures!
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Charlotte
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2007-03-14, 1:49pm
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Spinning sand
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Join Date: Mar 23, 2006
Location: Dallas/Fort Worth
Posts: 1,036
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Lazy Cat, when you say furnace blower, are you talking about the big silver box there right inside your basement window? Does that have a "squirrel cage" type fan inside it? A
Also, is that smaller round duct to the left of the big silver box your makup air duct?
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- Dan
~ If you don't stand behind our troops, please, feel free to stand in front of them. ~
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2007-03-15, 5:16am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 02, 2005
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 637
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Its actually IS a an old blower from a furnace!! So it really really really has sucking power. It could make your hair stand on end HA HA HA . Anyway, the HVAC man enclosed it in a box, that is what you are looking at. And fortunately it DOES have controls so I can lessen the suction if I want to. I also learned the importance of make up air so I have a 10" duct return air system on the other side of the setup to the right (you can't see the ducting) with a hole in the table top. Works great. No leaving doors or windows open. That smaller duct is actually my clothes dryer outlet
Here are some more pics.
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2007-03-15, 6:57am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 12, 2005
Location: Central MN
Posts: 605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheeky monkey
here's what I did and I love it!!! Very $$ though. I bought the whole setup and i had my HVAC guy instal a furnace blower. That made a HUGE difference in the draw!! I also have 'extreme ducting' in place for fresh air intake. that also cost $$. All ducts are hard ducted, I ditched the flexible stuff. SO basically I was buying the hood only. and I think you could probably make one your self!!?? here are some pics. I am at work right now but will send along the pics of the INSIDE. These just show the outside and the very cool furnace blower.
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Is that you exhaust and intake air right next to each other?
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2007-03-15, 7:15am
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Safety ALWAYS
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Join Date: Jun 10, 2005
Location: Sauk Rapids, Minnesota
Posts: 2,401
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Read the post above yours. It is her dryer exhaust duct.
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2007-03-15, 8:18am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 12, 2005
Location: Central MN
Posts: 605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeAurelius
Read the post above yours. It is her dryer exhaust duct.
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duh, got it now. I should of read the whole post first. lol
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2007-03-15, 9:56am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 02, 2005
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 637
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2007-03-17, 5:54am
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Rare Florida Native
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Join Date: Jan 20, 2007
Location: NW Florida
Posts: 1,512
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Well my solution for my exhaust was to show a local heating and cooling guy a picture of the Glasscraft hood. He had me one made in an afternoon and the hood is 22" deep vs the Glasscraft 24".
$150.00
I then found a inline exhaust by Continental Fan model AXC200B.
I was able to get it at a contractors price for $186.00.
Now to get everything up and ready. Waiting on the fan to arrive.
Thanks for everyones input!
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Charlotte
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2007-03-17, 5:55am
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Rare Florida Native
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Location: NW Florida
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Will post a picture when everything is up and working - which hopefully is SOON!
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Charlotte
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2007-03-17, 6:34am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 12, 2005
Location: Central MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheeky monkey
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LOL
your right, it was the pictures. I don't like to read, I just like to look at pictures.
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2007-04-02, 12:38am
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Formerly known as LT
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Join Date: Feb 25, 2006
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,624
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Wow sounds like you did well! I thought you could do better than the glasscraft hood price wise. Also glad to hear you went with a better fan. Have fun!!
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Londa
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2007-04-02, 6:46pm
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Rare Florida Native
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Location: NW Florida
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Have all the parts and they are being put together. Picture's when finished which I hope is soon.............glass withdrawals
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Charlotte
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