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  #61  
Old 2008-01-02, 10:46pm
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Second time. Wonder if this worked.
Kathy
PERFECTLY!!!! (Our posts must have passed each other in cyberspace!)
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  #62  
Old 2008-01-02, 10:57pm
sarbeardog sarbeardog is offline
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Hi DeAnne,
Thank you for the compliment! I must have used 9 layers of dots for each flower. So how would that work if I encased the whole bead after each layer? Wouldn't that make the bead huge!?
What I'm going to try next is to make a layer of petals then dot clear over each dot of the layer? Maybe? I would think that this would give the same effect. Whats think? Have you tried this thought?
Kathy
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  #63  
Old 2008-01-03, 12:12am
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Thank you all for the wonderful information! I've been struggling with encased flowers since I started making beads years ago! I'm finally getting there. these were made before I read all this wonderful information. the secondis a flat tab, with"encased "bubble-flowers".
I can't wait to try it again, having so many useful tips!
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  #64  
Old 2008-01-03, 12:23am
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Hi Rachel,
Floral aren't easy are they! Work slow and don't try and hurry the glass. The floral I made last night took me almost two hours to complete. Patience is the key!
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  #65  
Old 2008-01-03, 12:54am
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Hi DeAnne,
Thank you for the compliment! I must have used 9 layers of dots for each flower. So how would that work if I encased the whole bead after each layer? Wouldn't that make the bead huge!?
What I'm going to try next is to make a layer of petals then dot clear over each dot of the layer? Maybe? I would think that this would give the same effect. Whats think? Have you tried this thought?
Kathy
Hi Kathy~

Yes, nine layers of clear would be GINORMUS, wouldn't it!?! I think that a compromise is a great thought - that putting clear on the petals only, and allowing them to "sink" (melt) in should work pretty well.

I'm going to go PM Michelle (bousky here on LE) and BEG her to come join us here and give us some tips - check out the beauties in Post #15 on this thread:

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=75530

Maybe she would be kind enough to share some of her skills with us - aren't these amazing!?!

TO BE CONTINUED....

DeAnne in CA

EDIT: Also "inviting" Cynthia's input - she's glassactcc here on LE and also does wonderful florals!!! Par-teeeeee!!!!!!
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  #66  
Old 2008-01-03, 9:23am
sarbeardog sarbeardog is offline
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Hi DeAnne,

Michelle did a wonderful tut on LE. I found it but I can't figure out how to link it here.
I used techniques from her tutorial.
Will try and link it.
Kathy
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  #67  
Old 2008-01-03, 10:23am
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Hi all,

This is a great thread! Wonderful work here!

After skimming this thread, I realize this is all very much about personal style. I encase deeply and intensely heat each layer and I work with a very small flame. I put down a base petal color and dot with another color. I plunge deeply and break off the stamen cane my blowing on it and snapping.

I did do a tutorial and below is the link to it on LE. I also have a link to a one page PDF version. I will add that link when I figure out what it is. I am kind of in a hurry right now. I will come back when I have more time to really read this thread!

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=52884
This type takes me about half an hour.

This is at least an hour

I loose track on these. Three hours or more is what I know them to take. I try to have unlimited time ahead of me to start a larger bead. The last step of fixing the shape seems to take as much time as laying down the blossoms. As you can see I didn't leave enough time for the second one.


Patience and Practice, Practice, Practice is a big key to florals. I do get discouraged often. My last session I made a big three hour bead that will never see the light of a camera due to smearing. Good Luck!

I am happy to answer any questions that you may have. I will read this thread in more depth later.
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  #68  
Old 2008-01-03, 11:18am
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The PDF link is in the first line of the tutorial page. It is a big file and my computer downloaded it just clicking on the link. So, beware if your computer has problems with large files.
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  #69  
Old 2008-01-03, 11:25am
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Hello everyone. I did not read through every post but I did scan and look at all of the beauties posted here. I was going to post how I do my basic flower so if I am being repetitive, I apologize.

First off, I make huge beads so I usually have layers upon layers of glass. I think that is the way to really get a three dimentional look but it does depend on the background or base of the bead as to the amount of layers. My basic flower is really rather simple. I think the trick is to know when to poke the center. It really is all about the heat control as to weather or not your flower will bloom and the petals will cup.

First I dot my base color on my bead in a ring weather you are doing a three, four or five petal flower. Here's where you can do the most amazing color mixing. Don't just use white as the base. If you use light blue for the base and top it with trans red, you will get a purple flower. You can use yellow as your base for a leaf, and top it with blue, and get a green leaf. Not just the normal pallet colors of the glass you are using. You get the idea.

place your first round of dots on your base bead close together and in a very precise ring as best as you can but don't let them touch. Melt them in flat

Then your trans color on top. When you cover the base dot, make sure you push the trans rod over the dot so it covers all of the base unless you want an outline of the base color on your flower. Melt in and marver very carefully to "push" the trans into the base color. You want the surface of the bead to be flat and smooth for the next layer.

Next comes your next round of base dots over the first. You can make these dots a bit smaller. Melt in and repeat the step above. When you marver your bead, be sure that the bead has a "skin" so you don't smear it. It should be hot enough to move when pushed, but not on the surface. The whole bead should be warm.

This is where the plunge comes in. The whole bead should be heated evenly and a "skin" should form on the outside. That's when you should plunge the center so it pulls the petals and cups them.

Then, heat the bead again and let it skin over and encase with clear. The bead should be all the way out of the flame, and your rod should be going right through the flame. You want your bead cool and your clear piping hot and very soft. Don't drag it around but push it on. I encase in a spiral but I know there are other ways some artists do encasements. That's just the way I am comfortable with.

I hope this helps and just to let everyone know. I will be teaching a class in February which is posted in the "Classes" section. I will be teaching florals, rose cane, frogs on florals, raised florals, and on and on. We are going to have way big fun and pack all we can into a two day class. I wish I could show all of you instead of typing the directions. it's just so nice to be able to see someone do something you want to learn, in person. It makes it so much easier.

Oh wouldn't you know it. I went to take some pics and my camera battery is dead. I'll post more pics shortly. I just happened to have this one in my image gallery.

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  #70  
Old 2008-01-03, 11:26am
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Oh yeah, and I LOVE your florals.





Quote:
Originally Posted by bousky View Post
Hi all,

This is a great thread! Wonderful work here!

After skimming this thread, I realize this is all very much about personal style. I encase deeply and intensely heat each layer and I work with a very small flame. I put down a base petal color and dot with another color. I plunge deeply and break off the stamen cane my blowing on it and snapping.

I did do a tutorial and below is the link to it on LE. I also have a link to a one page PDF version. I will add that link when I figure out what it is. I am kind of in a hurry right now. I will come back when I have more time to really read this thread!

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=52884
This type takes me about half an hour.

This is at least an hour

I loose track on these. Three hours or more is what I know them to take. I try to have unlimited time ahead of me to start a larger bead. The last step of fixing the shape seems to take as much time as laying down the blossoms. As you can see I didn't leave enough time for the second one.


Patience and Practice, Practice, Practice is a big key to florals. I do get discouraged often. My last session I made a big three hour bead that will never see the light of a camera due to smearing. Good Luck!

I am happy to answer any questions that you may have. I will read this thread in more depth later.
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  #71  
Old 2008-01-03, 11:33am
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Cynthia, I absolutely love your work! I would love to be able to take your class! A goal I have this year is to improve the cash flow so classes are an option. I am sorry I am going to miss yours. Maybe next time!
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  #72  
Old 2008-01-03, 11:42am
sarbeardog sarbeardog is offline
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WOW! Three Hours hmmm....
I have lots of questions. But how to put them in words.
Are you using all 104 coe?
What is that beautiful red? I use red and get orange.
When you are saying "the last step fixing the shape takes just as long", are you doing something when you are encasing or something just before the encasing?
Thank you Michelle for sharing your thoughts and your technique.
Kathy
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  #73  
Old 2008-01-03, 12:24pm
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Hi Kathy,

No 104, all bullseye, which is around the 90 COE. Numbers don't stick in my head. The red is Red 124.

The last step is the final encasing and evening out the overall shape of the bead. It is the step that gives me the most trouble. Partly because it is a little tedious after working on the bead for a couple of hours already. The building of the blossom part just flys by for me. I really start noticing the time on the final encasing and shaping.
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  #74  
Old 2008-01-03, 12:32pm
sarbeardog sarbeardog is offline
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Cynthia, Oh my gosh! You color choices are absolutly breath taking! My mind is just....overwhelmed now!

What is the "skin"? Something tells me that it is hard to explain. Is it from heating the area real hot then letting it cool until a certian stage, "the skin" appears? Which again I'm guessing, is when its cool enough to be able to still plunge deeply.
When I plunging I'm doing it when it is still pretty hot. I hadn't thought about waiting a bit for it to cool. Its that heat control that is very hard to explain. Showing is the best.
I would love to take a class with you. Any Chance you could come to the Eugene Glass School?
Kathy
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  #75  
Old 2008-01-03, 12:35pm
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WOW, WOW, WOW!!!! Oh, thank you both, Michelle and Cynthia, for coming and sharing yourselves with us!!! How helpful that Tut is, Michelle! And Cynthia, you KNOW we all just so admire your wonderful, unique beads! I really appreciate the frankness and willingness to share both of your techniques - the 3 hour thing seems like a "dare-devil" challenge for me - on a Hot Head, not sure how this will be accomplished, but I'm going to try the simple versions and see how it goes. I was an hour into one last night - it was going extremely well until my "peeps" decided that had to come and see what I was doing - arrrggghhh!!!! There's a bathroom in my garage right next to my studio area - they were in, out, in, out - door opening (breeze!), door closing (breeze again!) and, dang it - CRACK!!!! Then, when I was able to "heal" the crack, the bloody bead release broke and the whole thing turned into a teardrop, smeary mess (tears!). Well, today is a new day - onward and upward!!! A fresh tank of gas and I'm ready to try again!

Thanks again to everyone! I'm so inspired....
DeAnne in CA
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  #76  
Old 2008-01-03, 12:43pm
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Hi Kathy. It really IS hard to explain but I think you have the main idea. Let's say we are ready to plunge. So, lets say you heat the flower you are going to plunge and the center gets nice and hot and in goes the poker. The outer part of the flower is not going to move but the center will. So you end up with a flatter flower. What you want to do, is heat the whole bead and plunge all of the flowers at the same time. Well, one right after the other. Your bead should be hot enough that you can do this without reheating the centers. So, the "skin" would be when your bead is glowing, it begins to cool. It cools on the outside first. When it starts to cool and most of the glow is gone, that's when you want to plunge. Also, if your adding a stamen, I still plunge with a pick first because you have more force to push the center way down. Sometimes stamen cane breaks and you can't plunge all of the flowers quickly with cane because you would be taking to much time cutting the cane and the bead would get too cool. When you want to add stamen, you just heat the tip and make a point and plunge into the center hole you already have made. That way, it fills the hole and you won't get a bubble.

So, in short, when the whole flower is hot, all of the petals will move with the plunge and make a more realistic flower.......in my opinion.

Thank you so much for you very nice compliment on my bead. Don't be overwhelmed, I will answer any questions you have if I can. Once you get the hang of it, you can do it in your sleep.

I am not going to be in Eugene. I really only teach one on one right now and classes here locally.
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  #77  
Old 2008-01-03, 12:44pm
sarbeardog sarbeardog is offline
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Hi Michelle,
I was wondering about using the 104(moretti glass). Now to get some bullseye to try.
I was thinking that the stiffer glass would "cup" better.
Are you using a mini cc with the bullseye?
Thanks for explaining the final step. I was thinking that maybe I was leaving something out. Like you, the final shaping of the bead is the hardest for me.
tonight I hope to get out to the studio and try yours and Cynthia tips to see what I come up with.
Thanks again for everyone taking their time to post to this thread!
Kathy
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  #78  
Old 2008-01-03, 12:54pm
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There is one more thing I have to share with Ya'll. I'm going to plug a product that makes shaping beads a BREEZE!!! The final shaping can take so long but really with this tool it's amazing.

Here's the Arrow Springs link. I'm sure other suppliers have them too.
http://www.arrowsprings.com/html/shaping_tools.html

And here are some pictures.

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  #79  
Old 2008-01-03, 1:09pm
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ok Cynthia, I'm going to try this tonight. I never thought about heating the whole bead first. I have always done just did one flower at a time.
The "skin" makes alot of sense as far as how the flower will cup more. Why didn't I think of that!
Do you use 104 or bullseye?

Thanks
Kathy
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  #80  
Old 2008-01-03, 1:14pm
sarbeardog sarbeardog is offline
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WHAT RED IT THAT CYNTHIA?
Tears are about to come to my eyes cause the beads are so BEAUTIFUL!
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  #81  
Old 2008-01-03, 1:29pm
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Cynthia!!!! I clicked on Arrow Springs link - there are a bunch of tools there...could you kindly "white cane" me to what you're referring to - yes, I should be able to figure it out, but please give me the hand-holding here! (OK, like I CAN figure out that it's NOT the marble mold or the button masher - giggle!)...I have the flaring tool, but I think I really need one of those knife edge tools...the flaring tool leave kind of a thick/wide indent, and I think I need something that will leave a finer, more delicate indent!

By the by, I'd LOVE to come to your class - it would be a real challenge, though. I have many consecutive "events" that usually leave the bank account on thin ice until April...Thanksgiving, Christmas, Daughter's January 13th Birthday, Son's Feb. 5th Birthday, Husband's March 19th Birthday...are you going to be offering classes later in the year - maybe mid-Summer or Fall? I'd probably be $ recovered by then...

Thanks so much for all your help - EVERYONE!!!

DeAnne in CA
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  #82  
Old 2008-01-03, 2:52pm
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Wow!!! Nearly all my favorite floral glass artists are here….. Thank you Michelle & Cynthia for sharing all that information. Both of your beads are so beautiful & so different to each other’s. Kerry
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  #83  
Old 2008-01-03, 3:04pm
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Kathy. I use Moretti, Morano and Lausha. I really have to say I don't like working with Bullseye. They have so many beautiful colors but it's too stiff for me. I think it's great for sculptural beads though.

That red is just trans red over white but my favorite combo for a blood red is....I can never remember the *^&^^*%$$ color. It's not tongue pink but a darker pink that turns or strikes. Someone help me here. Glasshouse, where are you!!! She's Kelly and she knows all of the colors whilst I no NONE!!! Anyway, that under trans red or orange makes the most beautiful red and like I said, mix your layers and you will get colors you never thought of.

I'm sorry DeAnne.....I should have clarified that. It's the Osibin Lentil Shaper. It has four different size cups and I use it ALL of the time. I don't make lentils with it but I shape my beads by spining in the cup instead of on a flat surface. I also use it when I push my flower petal into the bead as described up there in my other post. That way, you don't have a flat spot or you don't have to roll the bead but you just have to press it and it keeps it's nice rounded shape. Keeps the chance of distorting way down.
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  #84  
Old 2008-01-03, 3:22pm
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Is the trans red the striking red? If its the stiking red, I must have a bad batch from along time ago! Cause tried that and it comes out a muddy red. I don't now glass names either. The darker pink that turns or strikes humm.....
Great tip on the Lentil shaper! Going to try that also.
Kathy
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  #85  
Old 2008-01-03, 3:48pm
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Red over Powder Pink. You use it for lips on your Keepers sometimes too. I made a piggy out of it and the poor thing had 3rd degree sunburns!

Kelly

PS The lentil shaper is hands down the best tool ever. I use mine more than anything else except tweezers. I don't think I can make a bead without it now! And I never use my flat marver anymore.

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Originally Posted by glassactcc View Post
Kathy. I use Moretti, Morano and Lausha. I really have to say I don't like working with Bullseye. They have so many beautiful colors but it's too stiff for me. I think it's great for sculptural beads though.

That red is just trans red over white but my favorite combo for a blood red is....I can never remember the *^&^^*%$$ color. It's not tongue pink but a darker pink that turns or strikes. Someone help me here. Glasshouse, where are you!!! She's Kelly and she knows all of the colors whilst I no NONE!!! Anyway, that under trans red or orange makes the most beautiful red and like I said, mix your layers and you will get colors you never thought of.

I'm sorry DeAnne.....I should have clarified that. It's the Osibin Lentil Shaper. It has four different size cups and I use it ALL of the time. I don't make lentils with it but I shape my beads by spining in the cup instead of on a flat surface. I also use it when I push my flower petal into the bead as described up there in my other post. That way, you don't have a flat spot or you don't have to roll the bead but you just have to press it and it keeps it's nice rounded shape. Keeps the chance of distorting way down.
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  #86  
Old 2008-01-03, 4:20pm
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Is the trans red the striking red? If its the stiking red, I must have a bad batch from along time ago! Cause tried that and it comes out a muddy red. I don't now glass names either. The darker pink that turns or strikes humm..... Great tip on the Lentil shaper! Going to try that also.
Kathy
Kathy: What you might be using is "Rainbow Red" - it's quite a pain sometimes, and it can turn a muddy, "blood" (real blood, that is!) reddish color. I'd try Medium Red Effetre and a good Striking Red - see how that works.

Cynthia: Thanks for clarifying - now I know why I didn't get it...didn't occur to me to use this to reshape and reround the beads - but it makes perfect sense. Best part - I have one of these...now I know what to use it for (giggle!)

Thanks again everyone! Keep the goodies coming....
DeAnne in CA
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Old 2008-01-03, 4:21pm
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Yippie....Kelly to the rescue. I seriously think there is something very very wrong inside my head. Now, how many times have you told me the name of that color? Going on maybe 20?
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Old 2008-01-03, 4:51pm
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Thank you, Thank You!!!!
DeAnne, I haven't heard of a rainbow red?
Cynthia, there is nothing wrong inside your head when you can make those beautiful bead!
I have the powder pink and so look forward to using it!
Kathy
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Old 2008-01-03, 5:46pm
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Hey Kathy-
Congrats on posting in this thread. Glad to see you finally made the leap. Beautiful bead. To bad it wasn't done when I saw you.

Sounds like you are on a roll!
Alana
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Old 2008-01-03, 5:47pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarbeardog View Post
...DeAnne, I haven't heard of a rainbow red?...
Kathy
GREAT! Now pretend you never did!!! (Giggle!) Just kidding - some people love this color and do great stuff with it - I'm just NOT one of them!!! I'm also having a bit of trouble with the new CIM Sangre - a gorgeous red in the rod and used for spacers and on surface decoration...but after pulling it into cane with white, and using it on some florals that required cooking, it turned brownish too! I'm going back to the Medium and Dark Red Effetre!!!

DeAnne
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