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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips |
2005-08-01, 7:00pm
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High Maintenance
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Join Date: Jun 19, 2005
Location: A Godless F@#K Palace with Yarn
Posts: 6,438
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Several questions
I have some questions I was hoping someone here could answer.
1) How thick should I make my kiln wash before applying it to my kiln shelf? There were no directions with the stuff I just got from Frantz.
2) Some of my beads are breaking exactly in half. This is when I remove them from the mandrels before annealing. I know its not an incompatibility issue because of the 8 that did this 6 are single color beads. Any ideas of what I'm doing wrong? I can anneal on the mandrels because I don't have enough mandrels and can only anneal on the weekends so I would get one torch day a week.
3) Next week I'm going to go get some bulk propylene from a local welding supply shop. I thought I would buy some rods to make my own mandrels. What kind of rod should I ask for? I know it is stamped 308 but I don't know what the name of the actual rod is and I don't want to go in sounding like a total idiot. (even though I am)
Thanks,
Heather
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2005-08-01, 7:06pm
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Martyrs don't bitch.
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Join Date: Jun 13, 2005
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 5,142
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I think your beads are getting thermal shock somewhere along the way, when I used a HH, I got this a lot when my beads were large or complicated, it's hard to keep the whole thing hot while your working, if some part gets too cold it will crack. I especially have some very nice florals and cosmic bead that suffered this fate. Actually I still do this on my minor as well. It also matters how quickly you get them into the fiber blanket or whatever you are using. Basically, they need to cool down slow, so maybe slowly move them up and out of the flame so they get a chance to drop temperature slower.
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2005-08-01, 7:08pm
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Dildo Kween!
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Join Date: Jun 22, 2005
Location: oui oui! W.I WI.
Posts: 1,860
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OK complete halves are a thermal fracture. If it's an incompatibility problem it's a jagged break
In the 15 years of lampworking, I've never used kiln wash.
If you have a kiln why are you not annealing you beads when the bead is hot? This is the reason for the breakage!
I've always found my mandres at hardware stores or the best I've ever found are at hobby stores that sell remote controlled cars, planes etc.. it's called "Music Wire" I have some that are close to 10 years old.
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2005-08-01, 7:33pm
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High Maintenance
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Join Date: Jun 19, 2005
Location: A Godless F@#K Palace with Yarn
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I can't anneal when I torch. I have to change the program on the controller manually so have to be up for while the kiln is operating. If I torch at 7pm and stop at 8 the kiln would need me to babysit for another 4 hours and I can't stay awake that long. *sigh* Soon I will be getting a different controller that will ramp up and down on its own and then maybe I can anneal right away.
What sort of rod do you buy at the hardware store? I have a 1/8" steel rod that I got at a hardware store but didn't know if I could use that or not. What sort of metal should I look for? Is just regular steel good enough?
Thanks,
H
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2005-08-01, 7:45pm
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boro color bender
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Join Date: Jun 06, 2005
Location: The Oregon coast!
Posts: 10,039
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You can put the beads on the mandrel into the hot kiln... and then just turn it off when you are done. It will heat the beads evenly and hopefully cool slow enough to stop the thermal shock. Then, just batch anneal later as you have been doing.
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2005-08-04, 7:43am
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Stress Cracked
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Join Date: Jun 19, 2005
Location: Hershey, PA
Posts: 146
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I know what you mean about the welding shop and not wanting to sound stupid. I've not yet purchased filler rod from a shop so I am not experienced at this - but I have done a lot of research to prepare my self for the event.
You are looking for 'Stainless TIG filler rod'. There are several types of TIG filler rod, identified by alphanumeric designations like 308, 316, 316L. The number refers to a specific chemical composition of the rod. The 'L' refers to 'Low Carbon'.
The rods are used in arc welding. They are consumed (melt) in the process and form part of the joint. 'TIG' stands for 'Tungsten Inert Gas' and refers to the electrode on the welding device and the fact an Inert gas is generated during the welding process.
The is an informative thread on ISGB entitled homemade mandrels that discusses the various merits of 304 vs 306 vs 316 vs 316L ...
Good luck with the new lingo!
- Jim
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2005-08-04, 10:28am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 14, 2005
Location: Chilliwack, BC
Posts: 134
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When I went into my local welding shop I took a rod in with me... they stuck a magnet to it an knew exactly what to give me. And if they are jerks find somewhere else to get them. It was not all that bad. Good luck!!
Cathy
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