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Go Back   Lampwork Etc. > The Mall > Customer Service Kiosk

Customer Service Kiosk -- Questions for LE vendors.

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  #1  
Old 2010-11-05, 8:46am
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2kids&atorch 2kids&atorch is offline
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Default ? RE: Steel tabletop for bench

I have my torch mounted on a glass computer desk that I have covered with one of those stainless steel bench top tiles and some large ceramic tiles covering the rest of the tabletop. I'd like to purchase a larger table to work at, and also get a piece of stainless steel custom cut to fit the entire tabletop. Those of you who have studios in your shops, do you know the ideal thickness of the steel in order to provide the most heat protection and still keep it thin enough that it would be relatively lightweight? Any help on this would be greatly appreciated (or if you have a suggestion for another way to approach getting a larger, more heat-proof benchtop).

I work on soft glass and boro if that helps-
Thanks!
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I can show you one hot piece of glass
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  #2  
Old 2010-11-05, 10:12am
Reenie Reenie is offline
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I Have a very thin piece of aluminum. I think I bought it at home depot. They come in in sheets and different sizes. You could cut those with scissors and it's kept me going for a few years. If I need to replace them they are cheap to do so.
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  #3  
Old 2010-11-05, 10:38am
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Go to your local printing company and ask for some old printing plates. Usually they will just give them to you. I just took about 5000 of them to sell for scrap.
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Old 2010-11-12, 11:18pm
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My work bench is covered in galvanized ductwork aluminum. I went to a local HVAC supplier with measurements and they cut a sheet for me. Whatever thickness (not much, maybe 18 gauge?) is standard in the industry was what I got.
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Old 2010-11-12, 11:35pm
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I went to the local sheet metal fabrication shop with measurements and they cut a sheet of steel for me. It didn't cost much and covers my entire work surface.
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  #6  
Old 2010-11-12, 11:57pm
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Steel is good but an alternative is 'Hardi Board' tile backer board. 3' x 5' costs about $8.00. You can cut it with a skil saw or hand jig saw but it will destroy blades pretty quickly as it is made of paper impregnated with cement. I painted mine black w/BBQ paint.
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  #7  
Old 2010-11-13, 6:31pm
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Do not use galvanized! You will drop hot glass on it, the zinc will light on fire and poison you. Believe me, zinc poisoning is no fun. Its like the flu.
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Old 2010-11-13, 6:41pm
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I used metal flashing and aluminum tape to cover my table back in LA. I bought a folding table for here in FL and I'm going to buy the same thing, unless I can talk my A/C-tech neighbor to midnight appropriate some sheet metal (non galvanized)! The table is 3' x 6' so it shouldn't cost much no matter which way I go.
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  #9  
Old 2010-11-13, 11:53pm
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I picked up a stainless steel industrial freezer door from a scrap dealer who also works for a transport company...things get damaged, they buy it cheap and sell it for a profit. One small ding in the side and I have the perfect work surface for $10.

I'd check out metal scrap yards or look into your local shipping warehouse for deals on 'damaged' stainless steel.
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Old 2010-11-26, 9:48am
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I have found stainless steel tables on Craigslist, from time to time.
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  #11  
Old 2010-11-26, 10:27am
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Any restaurant supply shop has stainless steel tables. I got a 4' x 8' table for $200.00. It's under-carriage holds my propane and my oxycon.

Last edited by dlando1; 2011-06-27 at 10:05am.
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  #12  
Old 2010-11-26, 1:38pm
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I would advise getting that propane out of the building. Very dangerous; even more so if thatr unfinished area has appliances such as a waterheater or furnace. Even your kiln could ignite a propane leak.

Propane 'tanks' are notorious for leaking and/or venting from expansion etc.

Perhaps move those plastic storage bins below and put the propane on the otherside of the wall if it is outdoors. Take care and be safe.

Last edited by cheng076; 2010-11-26 at 1:40pm.
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