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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2015-03-25, 5:31pm
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theglasspilcrow theglasspilcrow is offline
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Default Shampoo Glass

Does anybody out there have a good annealing schedule for Shampoo glass? I've heard it needs to be annealed 'cooler' than 104, but I can't seem to find any specifics. Any input is appreciated, Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 2015-03-25, 7:19pm
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Three Muses Glass Three Muses Glass is offline
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I haven't heard that. It needs to be worked cooler or the sheen will go away. I anneal as usual.
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  #3  
Old 2015-03-26, 9:54am
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Thanks Rebecca, I'll anneal a few spacers as normal and see how they turn out
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  #4  
Old 2015-03-26, 12:51pm
glassygal glassygal is offline
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Default Shampoo Glass

You should check this site out. I think Charmaine had a lot of this for sale and knows exactly how to work it cooler!
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  #5  
Old 2015-03-26, 1:25pm
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It's the same annealing schedule. The only soft glass I've ever had to change my annealing schedule for is Satake. (SUPER soft.)

Let me change that. There are some colors that I've had to soak longer and some that I work last, but other than that, I've never had to change the temps. Only the hold times.
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  #6  
Old 2015-03-28, 9:16am
beadbroad beadbroad is offline
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Some other Czech glass has to be annealed lower, like 860? But I haven't heard that about the shampoo colors. It may have been the lead colors.
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  #7  
Old 2015-03-28, 4:57pm
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You have to work it cool on the torch, but the annealing schedule is the same.
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  #8  
Old 2015-03-29, 4:12pm
Ravenesque Ravenesque is offline
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I played with my colors from the bulk buy, i had the flame way down. My beads have no shimmer? They're all just translucent, any tips??

The pinks, almost seem like they want to be struck?
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  #9  
Old 2015-03-30, 2:45am
Ravenesque Ravenesque is offline
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^re:

I kicked off one of my oxycons, do they work on a lighter? I'm on a cricket and had the flame so small I could barely melt it and the sheen is gone. Am I doomed to not have cool glass? I'm just making spacer size or chickpea sized round beads. One I made without melting in has the sheen.
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  #10  
Old 2015-03-30, 9:04am
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I got the sampler pack from the garage sale from Charmaine and just got about 6# from the bulk buy. Haven't touched the bulk buy glass yet. But here is how I worked my first rods.

Soft, bushy flame. And work way out ... if you are seeing little sparks fly ... move further out. This was good for me because of being a boro girl ... I tend to work close to the torch face. I really had to "move" out into the further reaches of my flame.

I used my regular (regular for me) soft glass schedule for both 104 and 90 ... and haven't had any cracking issues.

On one bead I did really super heat it ... just to see and then hit the one end with a soft, cool reduction flame ... it seemed to bring the sheen back and a more even (less streaky) sheen than the other beads.



I'll see if I can post a close up of the super heated and then reduced bead.
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  #11  
Old 2015-03-30, 9:21am
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Okay ... here is the super cooked bead. Two views. Their is not a crack in the bead like seems to show in the picture on the gray background. It's seems by the other picture to be some other reflective artifact. (at first I thought it was dog hair >LOL)

The brighter, lighter end was bathed in a cool reduction flame at the end with the flame angled at the end of the barrel ... you can see the sheen came back more where the reduction was indirect.


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  #12  
Old 2015-03-30, 10:07pm
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Hmmm, maybe I'll try reducing a bit? Mine look like the left side of that bead. I had my flame so low it couldn't be bushy, the first night I worked in a "normal" bushy flame and got the same results as when I made the flame smaller and turned off an oxy. :/

Thanks for your help, I'll try again working farther out and reducing. My cranberry turned a weird livery color and the pink which is the same as your bicone on the left looks like it needs to be struck, it's light transparent? haha man, figures I would have problems, I've wanted to try this glass for like 10 years.
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  #13  
Old 2015-04-01, 12:20am
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I reduced the dark blue and it's a cool Iris metallic now. Seems they all might go metallic? I reduced the dark pink and it was metallic but I burned it off to see if it had any sheen, it didn't.
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  #14  
Old 2015-04-02, 6:38am
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Have you tried just working at the very back of the flame ... like move in only enough to get it to melt some??? Slow and steady and really cool seems to win the race for me.

I only reduced it the one time as a test ... just to see what it would do and it was definite just a light tough reduction in a cool reducing flame (turned down my oxy).

I'm on a Bobcat with M15 oxycon (or tank). I'm pretty sure I worked the Shampoos from the oxycon knowing they like it cooler.
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  #15  
Old 2015-04-03, 11:44am
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Update: I went ahead and annealed a bunch of free form spacers at the same schedule as my effetre 104, they all came out just as shimmery shampooey as when they went in
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  #16  
Old 2015-04-04, 3:22am
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nice!

Mine look like that if I leave them 'loose', if I melt in I lose the shimmer. Have you made any melted in?

I worked wayyyyy in the back the last time, it was like watching grass grow. I have them lined up for a pic, I've just been sick and haven't gotten to it. Still just translucent although a bit of sheen.
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  #17  
Old 2015-04-04, 6:05am
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I made a few very small spacers that were melted in and kept their shimmer like this, but I lost it with anything larger, I think that was impatience on my part though. I'm going to play some more today, making the base as I would any bead, and then turning the torch way down and adding the final layer cool to see how that works.
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  #18  
Old 2015-04-05, 10:59am
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Is that lighter color the pink or the white? wow those are pretty
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  #19  
Old 2015-04-05, 11:23pm
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..

Last edited by Ravenesque; 2015-04-11 at 2:47am. Reason: double post
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  #20  
Old 2015-04-05, 11:37pm
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I finally found my spot/setting for this glass, but it drives me crazy working so cool, the glass is like trying to make a bead with taffy :O . It's got sheen but not like if I leave it 'loose' wrapped. Purty though.
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  #21  
Old 2015-04-06, 12:51pm
28676bhe 28676bhe is offline
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I melt mine in a regular flame, making as large a gather as I dare to. Then I touch the marver and spin the gather out into the best bead that I can get. Period. That's it. No shaping, no more flaming, nothing. Very organic.
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  #22  
Old 2015-04-09, 9:56am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charmaine View Post
Is that lighter color the pink or the white? wow those are pretty
The lighter color is the 'rose light' it is very very nice
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  #23  
Old 2015-04-14, 7:26pm
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I got mine and did three beads today. Worked way back in the flame, super cool, never saw any sparks, could barely wrap it on the mandrel because it was like taffy. Gently shaped it in the back of the flame and never got it very hot at all. The beads are super pretty colors but they don't have the pearl sheen that the rods have. I'm not sure it matters much since the colors are so nice. One question....what does the glass look like going into the kiln for everyone? Is it dark and translucent looking or are you working it into the flame to get it back to opalize it. <yes I made that word up> I worked the yellow until it started opacifying for me but the other two I just gave up and put them in the kiln translucent.
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  #24  
Old 2015-04-15, 5:32pm
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How did they come out Amy? This newer stuff is a bit different that what I'm used to I think. I'm getting a blend of both translucent and opaque after annealing.
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  #25  
Old 2015-04-15, 11:03pm
Ravenesque Ravenesque is offline
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If after I melt them in, and they have a sheen inside and a transparent outside they seem to come out with a sheen. If they go translucent then no go. I cannot get any to go opaque after I've melted them, I do not have anything light other than a blue. The darker pinks go livery on me if I try, the others just stay transparent.

It is so slow to work this glass though! Amy glad you agree on the taffy, it really is a stiff glass. I play with boro too but have never worked something this stiff! Oh, funny, my husband likes bottles, whenever I get a new glass he wants a bottle, I actually tried the first night, imagine how that went
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  #26  
Old 2015-04-16, 8:36am
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Well I've learned a few things. I can't do two on one mandrel. The uneven heating means uneven striking. Yes...you have to strike the glass to get it to come out right. Striking to opacify it. It takes forever. Like 10 minutes in and out of the flame. The ones with two on a mandrel were pretty impossible to strike evenly and I gave up and put them in the kiln to see what happened. They came out uneven in coloring. So they are all back in the kiln for another cycle. The first three I did the other day have already been in two cycles. The yellow was the very best I did at the torch. I was able to get it evenly struck to opacification <I have to make up words here people> and it came out really pretty with a nice sheen. I did the light blue and the light green and put those in without striking them at all and they came out translucent. After another run in the kiln the yellow looked the same which is fine...it was already pretty. The light green actually opacified and is pretty but I'm putting it through a third run. The light blue didn't opacify and is ugly compared to the ones I did yesterday and tried to strike at the torch but I'm also putting it through a third time.

So, strike them to even opacification at the torch. I did just slightly up my propane and wafted it through that before putting them in the kiln and it looked like it helped with the sheen a bit. We'll see if a second cycle helps out on my uneven beads from doing two on a mandrel.

The raspberry is just awful though. Such a pretty color but the four I did are either pale pink or almost white at the mandrel with uneven translucent darker pink around the belly. Fingers crossed that another kiln run does something. I worked them in the flame for a long time too.
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  #27  
Old 2015-04-16, 12:18pm
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Here are some photos of the only one out of the kiln. I worked this a long time in and out of the flame to get it to turn. The ring around the bead hole stayed translucent which is why I put it in the kiln for a second run but it didn't change at all. So this color doesn't change in the kiln at all. It has some sheen to it but not the pearly sheen like the rod.


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  #28  
Old 2015-04-16, 11:37pm
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I don't strike to opacify at all, it must depend on the color? I just melt and shape. I never see it change colors or opacity now that I work it different. If it does change then that's when it goes transparent from working too long and I lose all the sheen. I mean all the way transparent since they have a thin layer of transparent on top of the sheen when I put them in the kiln.

I work way out in a bushy flame, if I had to spend 10 mins striking on top of how slow and cool you have to melt it, I would throw the glass against the wall.

I'll try and get some pics soon.
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annealing schedule, check glass, czech, shampoo


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