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Safety -- Make sure you are safe!

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  #1  
Old 2007-11-01, 9:46pm
sjglass sjglass is offline
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Default Ventilation Complete - Check it out!

I have one of these
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100088166
1600 CFM's

hooked up to some ducting exhausting out the window.



I know 1600 is moving a lot of air but is the ducting to far away from my face and working area? Do you need a hood to have proper ventilation?

Give me some feed back? I'm just a dumb guy with a big torch...

Last edited by sjglass; 2007-12-13 at 10:15pm.
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  #2  
Old 2007-11-02, 8:01am
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You need a hood...... 1600cfm means nothing if system does not have good capture area (hood)... Also what is your make up air source?...

Quite frankly my opinion is that, that fan is probably one of the worst you could choose for powered ventilation.........

Dale
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  #3  
Old 2007-11-02, 10:43pm
sjglass sjglass is offline
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I have an open window in another room. I realize I need a hood. Why do you dislike the fan?
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  #4  
Old 2007-11-03, 10:18am
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Its big, inefficient and rating of fan is questionable.... I prefer centrifugal blowers that have motor out side hot air stream......

Propeller fans are for applications where its only necessary to make some air movement.... Its good to remove warm air from attic but I would not trust my health on it....

Dale
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Last edited by Dale M.; 2007-11-03 at 10:21am.
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  #5  
Old 2007-11-03, 4:00pm
oldschooltofu oldschooltofu is offline
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need hood and side walls...or else the air will be pulled from all directions. you want it directed past you, across the torch and out.
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  #6  
Old 2007-11-04, 12:26pm
sjglass sjglass is offline
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can you link me to some better fans/hoods for sale and maybe some diagrams of good ventilation systems that I could apply to my current schema.
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  #7  
Old 2007-11-04, 1:10pm
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here is one at the same store that will work great. i have been using one of these on my lampworking hood for quite a while. i used some duct adaptors to get a round duct on both sides of the fan.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...3&ddkey=Search
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  #8  
Old 2007-11-04, 8:42pm
sjglass sjglass is offline
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any other input? I've switched ends of my workbench now so that I'm closer to the window and I can create a hood that will go right out to the window. What do you guys thinks is the appropriate size hood for a gtt mirage?
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  #9  
Old 2007-11-04, 9:58pm
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I would be interested in this as well, I was just about to purchase me exhaust system, but I didn't know I needed a hood, does anyone have any pictures that would illustrate how that would work with a fan system such as above?
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  #10  
Old 2007-11-05, 8:11am
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here are some photos showing how to use the fan i suggested. i made my ventilation hood using a similar fan (it is the blue fan mounted on top of my hood, almost the same as the yellow stanley fan i linked to). i bought the cheapest hood if could find, got rid of the wimppy fan it came with, drilled a big hole in the top where i mounted the inlet to the fan, and then used some retanuglar to round duct adaptors to get the output into the duct to the outside. then i used cement wallboard to box in the sides and back of the hood so that i get more effective ventilation as well as a nice fireproof surounding. here is a link.

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=67463
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  #11  
Old 2007-11-05, 5:54pm
sjglass sjglass is offline
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hey dale,

hey do you mind talking via email about proper ventilation. I just want to be safe and I had a nose bleed the other night. I haven't blown glass since and I'm going to rework everything and was hoping to utilize your advice.
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  #12  
Old 2007-11-05, 8:17pm
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There has been thousands of words written in dozens of threads on many boards........ I doubt I can say anything that has not already been said...

Dale
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  #13  
Old 2007-11-06, 10:25pm
sjglass sjglass is offline
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Am I on to something here or should I totally rework this? I bought an ecco or echo or eco or something 800 cfm fan. MY hoot is going to be somewhere in the ballpark of 900 sq in so 6.5 sq ft which comes out between 750 - 900 recommended cfm by your calculations dale... Am I right?

I'm worried now that the fan will get to hot what do you think?




I'm thinking this is a vast improvement... critique please
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Last edited by sjglass; 2007-11-06 at 11:11pm.
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  #14  
Old 2007-11-07, 9:23am
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Conceptually you are going in righ direction... More pictures as you progress... Remember its the functionality of hood that is important...

Actually the width/height comes closer to 720 sq-in ( 24x30 =720)
So that is divided by 144 to get 5 sq ft ( 720/144=5)

5 sqft multiplied by 125cfm, (per sqft -standard) is 625cfm..

With fan you have selected it looks like you are on track...

You could move fan to window where air has cooled somewhat and connect from hood to fan with duct.. There no rules that says fan has to be at hood, it just has to be in "system".

Dale
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Last edited by Dale M.; 2007-11-07 at 9:27am.
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  #15  
Old 2007-11-07, 5:48pm
sjglass sjglass is offline
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I'd like some pointers and suggestions please or things I should absolutely *not* do?

Is it bad to use galvanized sheet metal or tin or any of the metals I'm using as a barrier? Will they possibly get to hot and cause damage or let off gases that will be harmful?

Will taping the seams with the foil tape work well to make the hood air tight? Or will that stuff burn right off?
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Last edited by sjglass; 2007-11-07 at 6:07pm.
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  #16  
Old 2007-11-07, 8:10pm
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If hood gets hot enough to off gas (from galvanized sheet metal) or melt you foil tape, something is definitely wrong.... Galvanized or tin plate is metal of choice for almost all ventilation work....

Just make it airtight and then test your work...

Yes surfaces will get warm but probably not so hot you can lay hand on it and keep it there while fan and torch are in operation ..

Dale
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Last edited by Dale M.; 2007-11-07 at 8:13pm.
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  #17  
Old 2007-11-07, 8:46pm
sjglass sjglass is offline
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What is the best way to test the ventilation? I did some searches and couldn't come up with anything good. Care to share?
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  #18  
Old 2007-11-07, 10:01pm
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The first test would be to roll up some paper towels tight and light one end on fire then blow it out. This produces a nice amount of smoke to test with. I used some metal clamps to hold a smoldering towels in the possitions of each torch on the bench and sat and watched what happened to the smoke.
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  #19  
Old 2007-11-18, 12:58pm
sjglass sjglass is offline
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Is there any benefit to where the fan is attached to the hood for removing air? Like the back middle, middle middle, back left. any performance issues like that?
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  #20  
Old 2007-11-25, 10:52pm
sjglass sjglass is offline
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Well here it is... pretty much done with the bench, with exception to a few upgrades that I'd want to make. Mainly upgrade the seal on the ventilation ducting to the window. Right now its a plywood board with a hole in it. I'd like to make something with a better seal.




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  #21  
Old 2007-11-26, 12:52pm
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Default Vent system test

There is a test suggested on another board that is similar to the smoking paper test.
Fire up the torch as you would be using it.
Sit or stand where you would normally be.
Burn a small piece of bacon in the flame.
If you can smell any bacon smell it's not good enough.
PJH
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  #22  
Old 2007-11-29, 11:10pm
sjglass sjglass is offline
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No comments eh? Really?
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  #23  
Old 2007-11-30, 2:09am
Torch&Marver Torch&Marver is offline
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This is an awesome hood! I recently made a vent hood as well and was worried about the heat transfer from the torch but I fired it up tonight and there was no problem! Although the flame does get fairly close to the galvanized metal on the top of the hood, it didn't get broiling hot - just warm to the touch.

I love the way your torch is INSIDE this vent - no hope of fumes escaping there!

Great job. Let us know how it works for you...
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  #24  
Old 2007-11-30, 2:55pm
Diane (clarus) Diane (clarus) is offline
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The hood itself is fantastic!

I do have a question about where the fumes go when they exit the system? And where is your make up air?

-Diane
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  #25  
Old 2007-12-01, 1:44am
sjglass sjglass is offline
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The fumes are going out the window and into the sky. I have a room, 3 rooms down, (45 - 50ft) with a window open and all doors open on their way back to my room.
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Old 2007-12-04, 9:58am
Diane (clarus) Diane (clarus) is offline
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I understand that the fumes are being vented outside - what I'm curious about is if the exit port of the ducting is surrounded by anything, or if it is just blowing out an open window. It's hard to see what's going on with the closed blinds over the window.

-Diane
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  #27  
Old 2007-12-04, 11:39am
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For system to work effectively window needs to be sealed against blowback ( gases coming back in around end of duct)...

Its easy to do.... have a piece of acrylic or ply wood or whatever with holes in it for duct... Put it in place during "work" time, remove it when done, just be sure it "seals".. Foam weather stripping tape does a wonderful thing here...

Dale
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  #28  
Old 2007-12-04, 11:50am
Diane (clarus) Diane (clarus) is offline
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Dale - that's exactly what I was concerned about. Thank you for putting it into words for me.

-Diane
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  #29  
Old 2007-12-04, 6:36pm
sjglass sjglass is offline
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Well I have a piece of ply that the vent fits through pretty snugly and then i use a piece of 2x4 to put pressure on the wood so it stays snug. It's not perfect but that's my next improvement.

I'm in the process of buying a house so I can make things more permanent and not have to hide things from the land lord!

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Old 2007-12-04, 6:53pm
Diane (clarus) Diane (clarus) is offline
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Sounds like a great plan! Thanks for clarifying this.

-Diane
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