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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2011-08-22, 7:49pm
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Default Torch table work surface

Hi Everyone,

I'm just working on getting my torch set up. I have an old table that I'm going to start working on (This is really a temporary set-up) but I need to cover it with something fireproof. I thought I remembered reading that you shouldn't use galvanized metal as a work table surface, but when I sent my DH out to look for sheet metal today, he said he couldn't find anything that wasn't galvanized. Is galvanized really a problem? Any suggestions for a work surface would be much appreciated. I'm so anxious to get started.

Thanks a lot,
Peggy
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  #2  
Old 2011-08-22, 8:13pm
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Hi, Peggy--

I think the problem with using a galvinized metal is that that process usuall involves zinc. I believe that heating zinc can cause safety issues (I think it's the fumes that are the danger). Try posting in the "Safety" --I think that's what it's called-- section of the forum, and I'm sure someone can give you a more precise answer for why galvinized metal shouldn't be used as a work surface when you're using a torch and hot glass.

That said-- have you thought of covering your work surface with (scrap) ceramic tile? That might be a good temporary fix for you.

Good luck!

Mimi
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  #3  
Old 2011-08-22, 8:53pm
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I don't like metal because of the glare off the lights (I need bright lights where I torch).

I went to a DIY store and bought, for way cheap, a stack of 12 X 12 inch black ceramic tiles. I put four of them under my torch so I have a 2' X 2' work surface. I occasionally get a little burn elsewhere but it is really plenty big enough for most glass mistakes. I didn't attach them permanently and when I do a deep clean, about once every couple of years, I can pick them up and get the dust and glass slivers that might have slipped between the tiles.

I used the extra tiles to raise my torch. I had pain in my neck and someone suggested I lower my chair and raise my table so that I'm not looking down but rather straight across into the flame. Worked like a charm.

I also put two black tiles on my side table. It's where I put frit and enamels to roll beads in as well as assemble other small things like dichro chips and murrini before starting the bead (on the rare occasion I'm that organized.) Black tile is the answer, you can see everything including what color the dichro is and no glare. In fact, I'm still on the temporary table I intended to replace. If I do ever get a new table, the first thing I'll put on it is my big black tiles!
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Last edited by spixton; 2011-08-22 at 8:55pm.
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  #4  
Old 2011-08-23, 12:24am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spixton View Post
I don't like metal because of the glare off the lights (I need bright lights where I torch).

I went to a DIY store and bought, for way cheap, a stack of 12 X 12 inch black ceramic tiles. I put four of them under my torch so I have a 2' X 2' work surface. I occasionally get a little burn elsewhere but it is really plenty big enough for most glass mistakes. I didn't attach them permanently and when I do a deep clean, about once every couple of years, I can pick them up and get the dust and glass slivers that might have slipped between the tiles.

I used the extra tiles to raise my torch. I had pain in my neck and someone suggested I lower my chair and raise my table so that I'm not looking down but rather straight across into the flame. Worked like a charm.

I also put two black tiles on my side table. It's where I put frit and enamels to roll beads in as well as assemble other small things like dichro chips and murrini before starting the bead (on the rare occasion I'm that organized.) Black tile is the answer, you can see everything including what color the dichro is and no glare. In fact, I'm still on the temporary table I intended to replace. If I do ever get a new table, the first thing I'll put on it is my big black tiles!
this

the black is good too cos you can see the flame better
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  #5  
Old 2011-08-23, 12:37am
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Ceramic tile is what my husband-to-be (2 months to be exact) and I have on our workbench. It's not black, but it works. It can take the heat without putting off harmful fumes. We went to Surplus Warehouse and got them for 49 cents per tile.

Good luck and happy torching!
glasskat2010
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Old 2011-08-23, 1:23am
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Another suggestion is to cover the table with ceramic board available at Home Depot or Lowe's. It is thinner than cement board. And then as suggested above, cover the surface with 12 x 12 inch ceramic tiles. No need to cement them to the surface.

Prefer a tile with a matte surface in place of gloss. Something dark and inexpensive. Again the repro store or whatever is on sale at Lowe's - Home Depot.
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  #7  
Old 2011-08-23, 4:38am
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try a welding supply.....or even A/C supply place for the sheet metal......if the welding supply doesn't carry they can generally tell you where to get it. I have sheet metal covering my table and have no problems with glare at all.
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  #8  
Old 2011-08-23, 6:18am
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I used sheet metal for a number of years and moved to black granite tiles when I had some left over from a project. My next plan is to re-do the table with a matte finish dark 12 inch ceramic tile with very narrow grouted joints between them.

There is a product available at Lowe's and HD that will allow you to bond the tiles to the surface w/o having to use mastic. I've got that with ceramic tile on my back bench. Works great.

Robert
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  #9  
Old 2011-08-23, 6:37am
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I use flashing, but am thinking about switching to ceramic tile myself, just to reduce the glare. I tend to rearrange my space a lot, so have not really committed to that because of the extra weight on the table.
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  #10  
Old 2011-08-23, 7:35am
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I have cement backer board (the stuff tile is affixed to and available at home improvement stores) as my tabletop. I did it as an inexpensive, temporary arrangement when I started a few years ago. But it works well enough that I haven't bothered to change it out. It's easy to cut to size and cheap to buy. I think I paid $7.00 for a large enough sheet to cover my entire tabletop. There are black marks where hot glass has dripped on to it, so it's not pretty but it is very functional. Anyway if you're looking for inexpensive and temporary, it'd definitely get you started.
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  #11  
Old 2011-08-23, 12:34pm
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Good suggestions, everyone. My husband talked to our hvac guy who's getting me a piece of non-galvanized sheet metal. It's not quite big enough for the whole table, but we also have a lot of tile left over from the renovation on the house so I can use those to fill out where I need to. Thanks for the help.
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  #12  
Old 2011-08-23, 1:32pm
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Default table top material

Another vote for cement board from any Lowes or Home Depot. Very cheap and very easy to cut to size. I have had it a couple of years and it works great. Carole
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  #13  
Old 2011-08-23, 3:16pm
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Both my bench top and back wall are covered with Cement backer board.
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  #14  
Old 2011-08-23, 3:21pm
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I used non-galvanized sheet metal, fitted to the table top including the sides/corners. Painted it matte black, with high-temp woodstove paint. Used it for 13+ years, it's worked great.
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  #15  
Old 2011-08-23, 4:01pm
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I have a piece of stainless steel about 2x2 from the scrap metal place on my solid wooden door tabletop, but it sure is interesting how many have gone to black/dark tile. I'm thinking I may pick up a few pieces to see how I like them. I have some light ones I bought that I have under my chili pepper, and if I don't use the black on my work area, I can put them in front of the kiln.
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Old 2011-08-23, 4:32pm
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I use an old laminate dining table, with 2 large matte brown ceramic tiles in the torch area.
Can be easily (re)moved for cleaning the workspace when needed.
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Old 2011-08-23, 9:55pm
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I use cement backer board known as HardiBoard. Very cheap, completely fire proof, and painted black with HiTemp BBQ paint. The first few months it produced a bit of smoke smell when hot glass landed on it but that went away as it aged.
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  #18  
Old 2011-08-23, 10:48pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheng076 View Post
I use cement backer board known as HardiBoard. Very cheap, completely fire proof, and painted black with HiTemp BBQ paint. The first few months it produced a bit of smoke smell when hot glass landed on it but that went away as it aged.
Why paint?
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  #19  
Old 2011-08-24, 1:20am
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I torch at a steel table I bought at ikea. Love. It.
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Old 2011-08-24, 5:20am
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I went to my local stove store and got some firebrick, it's cheap and fireproof, my coal stove is lined with the stuff. I just got enough to cover the area directly under my torch, the rest of the bench is sheet metal spray painted with high heat stove paint, that's good to 1600 dF.
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  #21  
Old 2011-08-24, 9:12am
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For a temporary thing...several of the stores sell steel sheets work surfaces for this.
here is mine....(it's NOT this clean anymore lol)


Think I paid like 6 bucks or something like that..it was really cheap from art glass house.
It does what its suppose to do..doesnt burn when you drop/set hot stuff on it.

It does have the disadvantage that the whole table isnt covered...just got to learn to put it on that and Not on the table.
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Old 2011-08-24, 9:33am
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LarryC,
The HardiBoard is a sort of crappy brownish gray color and I wanted a black contrasting background. It also makes it easier to see when cleaning up glass fragments.

ETA. I sort of lost the effect of the black paint as I wanted to corral all the rods, punties, etc. so I recently put a couple of shallow aluminum baking pans down in front of the torch. They work great but the black background is gone. I guess I should/could paint them LOL! BTW the raised edges of the pans are great rod rests.

PJH

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Old 2011-08-24, 1:35pm
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Many years back.....I got the best surface ever. I went to a tombstone company, and bought thin sheets of scrap marble. They literally had piles behind the building. I got two, 12 x 24 inch pieces, that were almost perfectly rectangular, for like 30 bucks!!!


Hot glass has never left as much as a mark on it. It's a black marble though. I'm sure white would discolor from heat. But, it's been tried and true for 13 years now.


I put a piece of plywood on top of an old picnic table with no benches. Sat the marble on top of that. It's been a fantastic bench for me.
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Old 2011-08-24, 4:24pm
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I use an aluminum street sign. A "Neighborhood Watch" sign actually. Don't ask where it came from.
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Old 2011-08-26, 3:32am
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Tiles, but don't cement them down. Easy to pick up, rinse off, and let dry. I have a plastic 6ft buffet table and I haven't burned it up yet.
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Old 2011-08-26, 8:19am
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I use an aluminum street sign. A "Neighborhood Watch" sign actually. Don't ask where it came from.
You stole a neighborhood watch sign Now thats funny!
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Old 2011-08-26, 2:21pm
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I am using cement board as well. I singe it from time to time when hot glass drips on it, but it does no damage to the board.
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  #28  
Old 2011-08-27, 9:34am
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I use a nice, solid piece of wood salvaged off the top of an old entertainment center. It's got burn marks here and there, but I can't imagine that I'd mess it up bad enough to have to replace it.

I had cement board before, but it wasn't easy to clean, and I prefer a dark colored background so that the flame is more visible.
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  #29  
Old 2011-08-27, 1:53pm
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I went to the automotive department at WalMart and picked up a large flat pan designed to use under your car when you're changing the oil to catch drips. It has a small lip around the edge, was very cheap, and used screw to adhere it directly to my work table. Still holding strong and works very well.
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Old 2011-08-27, 2:49pm
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Quote:
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You stole a neighborhood watch sign Now thats funny!
I bet it wasn't stolen...probably just borrowed
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