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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2015-06-02, 12:42pm
Katia Katia is offline
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Default Does CIM Poison Apple opacify always?

I'm sorry if the question has been discussed but failed to find any thread on that topic.

I batch annealed my first portion of beads and had a couple made of CIM Poison apple. The bright juicy green converted into almost effetre nile green (as was promised at CIM web page, though). But at the same page there are some beads retaining this semi-translucent appearance and I wonder if it is a "photoshop magic" or there is a way to do it in reality. I used standard 510C (950F I suppose) for annealing temperature.

Thank you in advance
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  #2  
Old 2015-06-02, 1:12pm
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My poison apple always ends up opaque no matter what it looks like going into the kiln.
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  #3  
Old 2015-06-02, 7:57pm
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on top of other glass, it does stay somewhat translucent for me. I like some of the other CIM opal greens for that effect in spacers. Perhaps try a clear core for a lighter look?
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Last edited by KJohn; 2015-06-02 at 7:59pm.
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Old 2015-06-02, 11:17pm
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I wonder if it's a bit like Kryptonite or some other CIM opals, where annealing times and temps change the outcome? Such as, I can make a set of Kryptonite early in the session, make more towards the end and the first ones are more opaque. Also, if you leave them by the door or other 'cooler' spot it'll sometimes stay translucent. Worth a try, because Kandice's flowers are for sure transparent http://www.creationismessy.com/color.aspx?id=74
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  #5  
Old 2015-06-03, 12:58am
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I think Kandice has clear glass on top
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Old 2015-06-03, 12:59am
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Would this help?

http://www.frantznewsletter.com/2010...s-translucent/

I miss Mint, that stayed nice and translucent.
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  #7  
Old 2015-06-03, 5:22am
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I don't work with CiM at all but I wonder if kicking down the garaging and annealing temperatures would allow the translucence to remain.

I know that it might extend the length of the annealing phase by some amount of time but I would not think an extra hour in the kiln would be too high a price to pay if it will stay like was when you put it in the kiln.
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Old 2015-06-03, 12:14pm
Katia Katia is offline
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Kristin, Phill, Ravenesque, Clh, thank you so much. I'll try to layer it on clear or light grass may be.

Phill, I hold them for 2 hours that is frankly twice more they needed (but the sizes varied and I took the largest and rounded the time up for the whole batch). But I got some compensation for this changed colour - reichenbach multicolour developed some purples and blues in the kiln and that was a pleasant surprise

Last edited by Katia; 2015-06-03 at 12:29pm.
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  #9  
Old 2015-06-03, 4:57pm
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If you drop the annealing temp down to say 900f then you may need to hold them an extra half hour before taking them down to the strain point.

My memory, she no worky so good no more, but I'm thinking the strain point is around 830f.

It has been a while since I wrapped my head around that stuff.

But longer time and lower temp may get what you put into the kiln to come out of the kiln at the end of the cool down.


ETA: You could always experiment by sticking the end of the glass rods into the kiln and letting them run through an annealing cycle at the different temps and times. That way you can use them to make stuff after the experiment is over and you don't to go through the "aw shucks' feeling when a bead you worked very hard on changes on you after cooling down.


OH and do, please, come back and teach us what you have learned.
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Last edited by Speedslug; 2015-06-03 at 5:02pm.
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