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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #31  
Old 2008-03-21, 8:38am
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It will reduce too. it will form streaks of shiny silver almost black with a little color. BUT you have to really really reduce it.
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  #32  
Old 2008-03-21, 8:44am
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I just thought I would post my luna2 that did not go so well for you all to get an idea...

The first I actually really like! It did not do what I wanted to but its pretty!! the light tan is the luna2 that I did not get hot enough. *I ran out of gas*


The next is a total flop!! One of the first trials. I under heated, over sooted, and thought i could bump the color with a little silver leaf. then it was encased and it's just a mess.. I was working too close to the reduction in the flame. I also think my flame was too high. Good learning experience!



and the progression.. a bit of color.... (all luna2 its kindda wonky, my kiln jumped about 150 degrees on me. I think I lost some color for that too)
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Last edited by jaci; 2008-03-21 at 8:49am.
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  #33  
Old 2008-03-22, 5:19pm
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I must find my camera. I'm getting totally different colors than ya'll are. I'm getting like a transparent magenta, with blue and green hazy swirls. Looks a lot like faux boro. I'm striking just like squidly said, and then spot heating and twirling with a clear stringer.
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  #34  
Old 2008-03-22, 5:23pm
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Pics pics pics!!!
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  #35  
Old 2008-03-22, 6:26pm
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Chris, that's awesome! I'm so glad to hear it. This glass produces colorful shades somewhere between a transparent and an opaque. I really am enjoying it and am glad to see your post!
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  #36  
Old 2008-03-23, 6:28pm
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I thought I'd share a few photos. Have more to take after I get my beads cleaned from this weekend's torching sessions. Can't wait to see more pics from everyone!



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  #37  
Old 2008-03-23, 7:36pm
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SIGH, more brown poo this weekend. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I miss Terra. The instruction handout says to anneal at 940. What temp are ya'll soaking at until you anneal? I'm a little nervous annealing so low.
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  #38  
Old 2008-03-23, 7:48pm
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I anneal at 930 and soak at 925.
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  #39  
Old 2008-03-23, 7:48pm
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Lara - did you have any color before it went in the kiln?
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  #40  
Old 2008-03-24, 3:26am
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Lara,

I garage and anneal at 935F and am working on testing out higher temps with future torching sessions. I know Squid asked about color going into the kiln and I look forward to reading your answer. This might sound stupid, but have you worked with any of the other striking glasses that you have success with during the same torching session? If so, are they striking how you want them to?
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  #41  
Old 2008-03-24, 1:28pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephBonniwell View Post

I garage and anneal at 935F
Sorry for asking this, but how long did you soak 1" bead for with this temperature? (I'm crappy on this things)
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  #42  
Old 2008-03-24, 4:02pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gubnavnania View Post
Sorry for asking this, but how long did you soak 1" bead for with this temperature? (I'm crappy on this things)
As I make each bead, it goes into the kiln and soaks at 935F for the duration of my torching session, so that could be as little as 1 hour and as much as 8 hours. The last bead soaks at that temp for 30 minutes and then I start ramping down. If I didn't answer that well, just let me know and I'll try again, ok?
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  #43  
Old 2008-03-24, 4:05pm
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I anneal and hold around the same temp, but have a 2 hour hold, so the last bead in the kiln gets a minimum of 2 hours.
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  #44  
Old 2008-03-24, 4:06pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gubnavnania View Post
Sorry for asking this, but how long did you soak 1" bead for with this temperature? (I'm crappy on this things)
The length of hold time for annealing depends on how thick your bead is and not how longer. When you say a 1" bead, is that the thickness or the length?

When you lower the annealing temperature, you need to hold for a longer time. My beads are most over 2" long and less than 1" thick and since I use a lot of striking silver glass, I anneal at 920 for 1.5 hours and garage at 890.

Hope this helps.
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  #45  
Old 2008-03-24, 4:53pm
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Thanks, you two! I'm glad to see other schedules for consideration.
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  #46  
Old 2008-03-24, 5:01pm
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My schedule won't help anyone. I batch anneal, and I only hold mine at 870 for an hour, tops. Otherwise I'm likely to lose color, but my beads are on the small side.
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  #47  
Old 2008-03-24, 8:19pm
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Wow, these temps are so low, I'm worried that the bead would get annealed at all, especially if you have Moretti in there that needs to be annealed at 960. I guess I don't really want to work on just Luna beads at one sitting and it sounds like you have to in order not to strike out the colors. This is frustrating. I guess I should appeal to Jed to have it garage and anneal at the typical Moretti temps.

I have gotten a little purple before putting in the kiln.
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  #48  
Old 2008-03-24, 9:39pm
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Lara - Moretti/Effetre (and all COE 104) can be annealed at lower temp for longer period of time. I did extensive research before settling on my annealing temp. I just can't put any of 90 COE and Bullseye in the same kiln.
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  #49  
Old 2008-03-25, 5:08am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lara View Post
I have gotten a little purple before putting in the kiln.
Play with it longer. When you get purple, blow on it, then heat to just glowing, then blow on it again, repeat until you have the colors you want. If you get back to beige...oops, you've gone too far, unless that's the color you were going for, and if that's the case, use a less expensive glass.
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  #50  
Old 2008-03-25, 5:13am
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I made a bicone yesterday with Luna2 and I encased it with CIM Cirrus. Please don't try this yourself, incompatibility cracks all over!!!!
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  #51  
Old 2008-03-25, 7:33am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayley View Post
Lara - Moretti/Effetre (and all COE 104) can be annealed at lower temp for longer period of time. I did extensive research before settling on my annealing temp. I just can't put any of 90 COE and Bullseye in the same kiln.
I anneal everything at 935 - including my BE . As long as you are above the strain point on a glass, it is annealing. The lower the temp, the longer you need to hold, which is why I hold for 2 hours.
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  #52  
Old 2008-03-25, 7:57am
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Thanks Sigrid . . . I get brown on striking silver glass at 935! Some glass I have to go 1.45 hours at 910. . . but Mike Crowley is building me a kiln with a 9" tall interior (instead of the 4.5") . . . that will eliminate the heating elements striking the beads!
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  #53  
Old 2008-03-25, 10:04am
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Maybe your kiln is hotter than it says...
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  #54  
Old 2008-03-25, 10:10am
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Jaci - it isn't hotter . . . I have test it more than once. Have spoken with silver glass makers regarding this at length. With the heating elements so close to the beads, whenever the temperature drops, the kiln fires to get back to temp . . . and it fires up full heat . . . thus striking the glass again.

Everyone I know who has a kiln with short interior height has this problem and none with a taller kiln does.
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  #55  
Old 2008-03-25, 10:31am
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Intersting...
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  #56  
Old 2008-03-25, 11:35pm
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but my beads are on the small side.
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  #57  
Old 2008-03-26, 12:11am
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Thank you all for the replies on soaking time.

I have some Terra from DeAnne that I only tried few times. I was too scare to anneal together with BE incase I don't anneal BE properly (I anneal BE at 970 for at least 1.5 hour - I know it's overkill ). Now I know that I can, just soak them longer.
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  #58  
Old 2008-03-26, 12:29am
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Jaci...will try the clear, clear clear!
Steph..that bead is awesome. I also like the yellows to go with the purples and blues.
I haven't really had much of a chance to torch all week but I'm glad I'm reading and learning. I know the glass works but the glassworker kinda sux
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  #59  
Old 2008-03-26, 7:57am
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  #60  
Old 2008-03-26, 8:03am
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Quote:
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Jaci - it isn't hotter . . . I have test it more than once. Have spoken with silver glass makers regarding this at length. With the heating elements so close to the beads, whenever the temperature drops, the kiln fires to get back to temp . . . and it fires up full heat . . . thus striking the glass again.

Everyone I know who has a kiln with short interior height has this problem and none with a taller kiln does.

I have a short kiln too and part of my problem was being close to the elements, but I was also overtemp. The solution was getting an element that didn't fire nearly as hot. Once I changed the element out, I stopped striking my glass. I had extensive conversations with Randy at Jen Ken and he is the one that hit on the solution. It takes a little longer to get to my hold temp when I first turn it on, but it keep there from being such high heat close to the elements.

It really is a simple fix - 10 minutes to put in a new coil and voila - problem solved.
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