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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips |
2011-01-15, 8:00pm
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Glass-aholic
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Join Date: Mar 21, 2007
Location: CT, tolland CT
Posts: 4,332
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trouble etching transparent turquoise?
I etched a whole bunch of beads today. All about the same size and type. The vetro med transparent turquoise did not etch in the same time that the others did. in about 1-10 min my other transparents were great, smooth and even. The turquoise was streaky at best, but it seamed as though the only etch was almost non existent, and followed the way the glass was laid down? any suggestions on this one?
I did end up leaving them in for about about 2 hours and finally the etched, but they were kind of on the rough side. I know that I can soften the etch with cream wax and other things, and have searched for 'colors that do not etch', and other stuff like that. The search came up empty handed... I know I have seen some info like this before, but I cant find any of it. I know some colors that do not etch well, hades, intense black... I think it is time we started this discussion again!
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2011-01-15, 8:08pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 12, 2005
Location: western mass
Posts: 604
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Interesting Jaci, I am having the same problem.
I tried to etch 2 this week, and they are inconsistent. 20 min, and there are some shiny areas, and some etched.
One bead is CIM kryptonite and the other I am pretty sure is effetre TP pale ink blue.
My fluid is old, and I am chalking it up to that.
joanne
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2011-01-15, 8:41pm
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Glass-aholic
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Join Date: Mar 21, 2007
Location: CT, tolland CT
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I bought a big new bottle yesterday... I portioned out some, and added a bit of water, after scouring for info about making the cream a bit more liquid here. All I found seemed like it should be fine. I will test the turquoise again tomorrow with out the diluted solution. I am going to be creating a little experiment i think... It did not even dawn on me now that I diluted it.. Still, All my other beads took 5-10min in the same solution.
(maybe we should just blame it on all this snow!! )
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Minor 10lpm Oxy-Con + HH on Propylene . . . . . .
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2011-01-16, 12:49am
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Salt Box Beads
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Join Date: Oct 23, 2005
Location: Heading to Paradise
Posts: 4,161
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I get soft velvety etches in only thirty or 45 seconds. 3 minutes top, but I do spend a lot of time really stirring the sludge in the bottom into the brown suspension liquid on top.
It takes me usually 15 minutes to really get the two mixed well. I find that if I do not do this I get streaked etch and shiny spots. I use a wood chopstick to mix.
My jar is 5 years old and the it still works great....if I mix it well enough. I bought it at Michaels Crafts.
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2011-01-16, 1:43am
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Uh Oh....
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Join Date: Dec 06, 2005
Posts: 1,039
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Use the Etch-All cream type, instead of the liquid. It seems to etch all the transparent colors at the same rate so they all come out looking the same which is especially evident when more than one transparent color is used in a bead. Turquoise will etch and it seems to be softer, like you mentioned. I leave the cream on for 15 minutes. That's it. It's harder to use but I like the way the etch is more even and smoother. I still use the liquid for colors I know etch okay in it but for some colors the cream type seems to work better. At least to me.
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Susan
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2011-01-16, 4:34am
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Gonna get blow'd up!
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Join Date: Jun 12, 2010
Location: Ohio
Posts: 304
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I use EDP to fume my beads to a matte finish. I got tired of having different etches occasionally fail so I put the evil powers of EDP (evil damn purple) to work for me.
It doesn't look EXACTLY like etching, it's almost better with a sometimes iridescent quality depending on what glass you're doing it to.
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2011-01-16, 8:32am
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Glass-aholic
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I am using etch-all cream, from Michael's. It is not brown, and had an even consistancy even before I shook it up. I poured some into another container, added a few drops of water, and shook and stirred it with a 5/32 mandrel for a while. I also stirred it with the beads in it ever couple min for the first 15 min with the turquoise. All the other colors needed 10 min max.
I got a great etch on every transparent color except the turquoise. a nice soft even etch.
I will be making beads to test this morning, and test them later today and tomorrow. I am baffled....I will make a beads of every transparent color I have and compare the etch times, and chart their etching time. I did not think that med transparent turquoise was one of the ones that did not etch well.
On the subject of colors that do not etch well, lets turn this science project into something more useful to everyone else. Post colors you know will not etch here, and I will edit this post or start a new one with a list, and my findings on etching times. That way people will have something to go by.
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2011-01-16, 8:39am
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Glass-aholic
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Stephanie, I will have to try the edp thing.. I have some just laying around that is evil...
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2011-01-16, 2:34pm
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Nikki Haverstock
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Join Date: Oct 10, 2010
Location: NW Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Copperrein
I use EDP to fume my beads to a matte finish. I got tired of having different etches occasionally fail so I put the evil powers of EDP (evil damn purple) to work for me.
It doesn't look EXACTLY like etching, it's almost better with a sometimes iridescent quality depending on what glass you're doing it to.
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I am Not sure what you mean by fume with EDP.
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2011-01-16, 4:12pm
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Salt Box Beads
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Join Date: Oct 23, 2005
Location: Heading to Paradise
Posts: 4,161
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Fume is a term used for thinly coating a bead with gold or silver to give it a high shine. It is something that needs to be done with really really good ventilation, it can be very detrimental to your health to do so otherwise.
So to read that copperrein does it with EDP and gets some desired results is pretty cool. I can't wait to try it out.
http://technorati.com/videos/youtube...%3DTmQGSLT3JuQ
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2011-01-17, 3:20am
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Gonna get blow'd up!
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Join Date: Jun 12, 2010
Location: Ohio
Posts: 304
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You take moretti purple and hold it in the flame ahead of the bead you want matte and let it fume vitrification all over said bead (rotate target bead and turn it so you also get up by the Mandrel) It's fairly easy, just make sure you don't get the target bead too hot (super glow) or too close to the EDP because it wont work well.
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2011-01-17, 4:24am
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Cherine Perrin Glass
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Join Date: Sep 01, 2005
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 2,045
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Jaci, You would probably get better results using the liquid instead of the cream. Here is a link to it...
http://www.etchallstore.com/store/dip_n_etch.htm
The cream is great but I have found it is better for flat surfaces.
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2011-01-17, 8:54am
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Glass-aholic
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Join Date: Mar 21, 2007
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Thanks Cherine. I am sending off a few beads to another lampworker who uses an etching bath to etch her beads. I also made test beads last night, just pulled them out of the kiln I think I got most all my transparents done. I will be sorting and etching today, then making a few more test beads in troublesome colors to send out tomorrow. I know some colors do not etch. But I have never had any problem with this color before.. oh well i need a good science project!!! and I have not updated my color chart book in a while, this will let me fill in the gaps! (and give me something to blog about!!!)
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2011-01-19, 3:59am
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Gonna get blow'd up!
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Join Date: Jun 12, 2010
Location: Ohio
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Did you get a chance to try the EDP trick?
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2011-01-19, 7:40am
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Glass-aholic
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Join Date: Mar 21, 2007
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no I completely forgot when I was torching. I will write it down though (now) on my notebook that comes to the torch with me.
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2011-01-19, 4:32pm
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Glass-aholic
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I have a feeling that etching is like having to hold your mouth just a certain way, and have the moon be 3/4 full, in a spring cycle.... hummmmm
Today I was etching 2 beads, made with clockwork centers and fully encased in clear. THE SAME ROD OF CLEAR, beads were literally made on the same mandrel with the same glass.
They were etched at the same time, right next to each other, mixed them up, during the etching process a few times. They etched for 10 min.
ONE ETCHED< AND ONE DID NOT!?!?!!??!?
i dont get it.
oh well..........
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Minor 10lpm Oxy-Con + HH on Propylene . . . . . .
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