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| Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips |
2014-04-17, 6:39am
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ScrapSurfGlassPaddleSew
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Join Date: Jan 22, 2012
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 3,223
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Anyone have experience with low-fire decals?
I bought a whole bunch of these low-fire decals when I first started lampworking:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Decals-Sea-L...item58a8a9b750
I made a total hash of it the one and only time I tried to apply them, and tossed them into a drawer and forgot all about them. I'm pretty much certain the issue was that I was totally unfamiliar with my kiln, and the way I tried to apply them they probably never got hot enough to actually fuse. (It is NOT a good idea to try and do anything but annealing with the bead door ring in place!)
I found them the other day, and did some fused cabs to apply them to, going to give it another shot. Just wondering if anyone's got any tips, beyond simply following the directions?
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L-111
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2014-04-17, 6:55am
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Ass-kicking Cephalopod
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Join Date: Jun 19, 2006
Location: Duh, Squidville
Posts: 9,523
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I've never used them in the flame but have used them several times on cabs and had great luck with them. The key really is following the instructions to the letter and handling them very carefully!
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2014-04-17, 7:07am
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HotFlash Designs
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Join Date: May 31, 2007
Location: Chicagoland and/or Southwest Missouri
Posts: 2,117
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I always followed the directions and haven't had any issues.
Thee are some decals made for ceramics that will work too. Now you're making me want to break out my decal stash!!
I didn't know you could use them in the flame. Anyone done that?
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Sheri
Be Curious. Not judgmental.
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2014-04-17, 7:24am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 26, 2006
Location: west
Posts: 811
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I have used them since they first came out - been like 8 or 9 yrs. I put them on all my spoon rests. They work great at between 1250 and 1275, which is where I normally cook them at. I only use them during my final firings, and have never tried them at the torch.
I didn't like the results using them at the temps that the directions recommend- probably has something to do with my kiln specifically. I don't have many full color ones left as they don't supply them much anymore but here's one of the 24k and white ones - although, now that I think of it, this might be one of the high fire ones - can't remember - I use them both the same way and at same temps - decided I didn't like altering my fire schedules so I stretched the temp of the directions to fit my schedules LOL
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2014-04-17, 8:24am
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ScrapSurfGlassPaddleSew
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Join Date: Jan 22, 2012
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 3,223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwantonetoo
I always followed the directions and haven't had any issues.
Thee are some decals made for ceramics that will work too. Now you're making me want to break out my decal stash!!
I didn't know you could use them in the flame. Anyone done that?
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I don't think you can, I think they're strictly fired-on.
What kills me is the INCREDIBLY slow ramp times the instructions call for -
ramp at 250 DPH to 350, hold 20 min
500 DPH to 1000, hold 10 minutes
MAX to 1034-1074, hold 8-10 minutes
That's 3 1/2 HOURS that the kiln is tied up for nothing but a bunch of decals. Plus cooling time, of course, so basically the day is shot. I definitely have to figure out the most efficient possible way to load the kiln for this.
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L-111
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2014-04-17, 9:52am
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Ass-kicking Cephalopod
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Join Date: Jun 19, 2006
Location: Duh, Squidville
Posts: 9,523
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The holdat 350 isn't necessary, IMO, but the 500 dph is plenty fast.
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DOG is my co-pilot
Cricket w/two 5 lpm oxycons - and sometimes a Minor.
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2014-04-17, 3:53pm
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novembersfyre everywhere
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Join Date: Jun 11, 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 3,833
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Even though the black enamel ones say that they are low fuse in order to get a good glossy surface on the enamel you have to do one more step. After bringing those up to full fuse temp and they have soaked for the required amount of time start ramping your kiln down to around 1000 degrees.
At this point take your bead out of the kiln and finish fusing the decal in the back of the flame. You will see the decal turn black and glossy. If you try to do this just by soaking them at temp in your kiln you will slump your bead.
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Mary Beth
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2014-04-18, 9:14am
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ScrapSurfGlassPaddleSew
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Join Date: Jan 22, 2012
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 3,223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squid
The holdat 350 isn't necessary, IMO, but the 500 dph is plenty fast.
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Really? Huh. When I batch anneal I ramp at 2500dph, haven't lost a bead yet. Of course, the backing on the decal might be a different issue altogether.
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L-111
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2014-04-18, 11:09am
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hyperT
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Join Date: Jan 31, 2013
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 582
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First cut the decal out that you want to use. Soak it in warm water until it slides freely a min or so. Slide the decal off the paper onto your glass. Then squeegee it with a wet cloth or wet paper if you don't have a rubber one. Let it sit for a while to dry. Load it into your kiln leaving it ventilated until all residue is burnt off. Don't breath the fumes. Close the kiln up and run it up to Ceramic Cone #022 or 1050 Degrees. If the decals are under fired you will see a slight halo around them. These are glass enamels that have been silk screened on to a nitro glycerin film.
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2014-04-18, 3:34pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 22, 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 591
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I tried them . I guess I got lucky. I applied them to the bead. Let it dry over night then put them in a cold kiln. Then started my normal bead session. Came out fine. My kiln mat be off. I was at 960 to 970 hold 1 hr. Then normal ramp down. Make sure no bubbles trapped and they are dry before putting in the kiln.
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