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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2015-08-29, 1:11pm
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Default Drawing on beads

Can anyone tell me where they got supplies for drawing on (cold, annealed) beads? The glass paint/enamels that would then be heated and bonded with the bead, as well as the implement (pen, brush, etc) to apply the design is what I am looking for, and if there is a book,etc. I would also be interested in that information.
Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 2015-08-29, 1:39pm
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These are nice people: http://www.fusionheadquarters.com/En...usion_s/31.htm
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Old 2015-08-29, 1:55pm
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Thank you for the link. It looks like I can't play, unless/until I get a hotter kiln at some point
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  #4  
Old 2015-08-29, 1:57pm
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The safest and easiest way is to buy low-fire paints (can be fired as low as 160C (320F or so) - these can be found at the ordinary craft shops. You do not need any special tools, just brushes or even things from the household like toothpicks (if you drop a small amount of paint and then pull it to create a design).

Low-fire enamels is the second option - can be obtained from jewelry suppliers.

One more option is UV or LED cured enamels (exactly as Shellac and other nail coatings for your manicure ) Colorit is one of the brands available in russia, the lamp to harden is about 100 USD, durability of the coating is unknown for me.

Hi-temp enamels and paints are to be fired well above annealing temps and firepolish temps and it mean the beads can (and most probably will) be distorted.

Low-fire decals for fusing could be an option. It is a thin ceramic film design that can be moved to the surface and fired below glass melting temps. Some fusing artists offer their lines of the decals.
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Old 2015-08-29, 2:05pm
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Thank you Katia, I think maybe I will check further into the first two options for beads, although I may explore the high fire enamels with fused glass too, as it has come to me that I do have a way to do that.
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  #6  
Old 2015-08-29, 2:18pm
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Eileen, never mind, but if you have your beads done and then put the hi-fire enamels and fire again - oops, 1500F is the full fusing temperature (815C appr). The ready bead will fuse to a cab. Or drop if you hang it on the mandrel.

If you want to decorate ready beads, you'll need something below 1150F (before glass starts to deform).
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Old 2015-08-29, 2:24pm
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On yes, I was not clear, I would miss that method for fused sheet glass pieces like windowmhàngings, dishes, etc.
I am sorry for the confusion. For the beads I would stick followed temperatures working with soft glass.
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  #8  
Old 2015-08-29, 3:02pm
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Eileen, it's my fault, time to go to bed, misundersood a part of your message "Midnight in moscow is lunchtime in LA" (c)

For full fusing Glassline paints work well (1500F) Delphyglass offer them ( I know there are mixed opinions about this supplier, mine too).
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  #9  
Old 2015-08-29, 7:19pm
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Thanks for all the info Katia!
Eileen, I would love to see what you do. You always have such neat projects.
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Old 2015-08-29, 7:46pm
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Now to keep it my mental "to do list" so I remember to try it. Kristin I am not as good with stringer às many of you are, so I thought I would try drawing with a pen or brush
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  #11  
Old 2015-08-30, 3:45pm
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You can use Pebeo glass and/or porcelaine paints on cold beads and heat them in the oven. They set at around 150°.
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  #12  
Old 2015-08-30, 4:09pm
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You can flame fire vitreous enamels that have been painted on beads. Dry the paint on the beads at 250 degrees for 15 minutes, then ramp up your kiln with the beads in it on mandrels (I heat to 1050 as that extra little bit of heat helps with reintroducing the bead to the flame without explosions), give the beads a good soak and then waft them through the flame until the paint is shiny. Be careful - certain colors, especially red, burn out easily. Re-anneal at soft glass temp.
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Old 2015-08-30, 4:09pm
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By the way, Jim Kervin has done a Bronwyn Heilman booklet that's a great resource for vitreous enamels.
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  #14  
Old 2015-08-30, 5:25pm
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Thank you both!
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Old 2015-08-30, 5:57pm
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As for tools to apply the enamel, get a fountain pen with a narrow tip from an art supply store. It's great for drawing/outlining. You'll want a couple different sized small paint brushes for painting. A rubber tipped pottery tool is great for repairs of wet paint and an x-acto knife for repairs of dry paint (scraping off excess).
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Old 2015-08-30, 6:04pm
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Thanks, I will check next time I am in JoAnn's or Michaels .
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  #17  
Old 2015-08-31, 12:10am
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Thompson's enamels has watercolor enamels for painting on glass and then firing it.
https://thompsonenamel.com/index.php...4acpl25evnhd42

The part number starts with GPWC which stands for Glass Painting Water Color.
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Old 2015-08-31, 5:26am
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Thanks Kay!
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Old 2015-09-02, 3:54am
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Artsyuno, do you have any pics? =)
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Old 2015-09-02, 12:50pm
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I saw a lampworking artist use laser printed images and an iron to transfer it to clear glass and then melt/wrap that onto a tubular bead.

I think Bulseye has videos on using the same technique to fuse powdered enamel on flat glass and think those could the be warp/melted around a bead as well.

I picked up some 104 coe sheet glass from Howaco to try that someday.
Now all I need to do is invent an extra day in the week.
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  #21  
Old 2015-09-02, 2:16pm
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That invention would get you a lot of attention Phill!
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Old 2015-09-02, 3:35pm
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I may have to move it up on my things to do list.....


....Hmmmm.......
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