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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1861  
Old 2010-11-06, 6:45pm
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Kristina, those frogs are so cute. Hey everyone, checking in and loving what you're doing with the glass. I seem to mix mine so much with the other brands. I'll post when I find something that is predominantly devardi. I'm still loving the transparent orange I bought a while back. It is such a yummy color. Also can't get enough of the opaque light brown. (not sure of correct color names) But I use it a lot in my sculptural beads.
I'll be back. Will find some beads to post.
Marcy
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Marcy Lamberson
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  #1862  
Old 2010-11-06, 7:14pm
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Kristina your frogs are great!

I made tiger stripped beads last week. Actually quite a few of them as I had a couple orders for them. I used Devardi black and white. Effetre clear and dark amber for the encasement. no compatability problems at all!
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  #1863  
Old 2010-11-06, 7:46pm
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SPOKEN FOR... thanks!
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Hey guys, I've decided to purge a few colors that I can't work to save my life. I've got a few rods each of the OP Light Ivory, OP Dark Ivory, OP Dk Burnt Caramel and OP Coffee and Cream, plus an oz. of the regular Dichro on White. I am going to pitch this glass in the trash unless someone wants it for the cost of shipping.

I could even be persuaded to toss in a few extra rods if there's a color you've wanted to try and haven't ordered yet, if I have it in enough quantity.
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Last edited by GlassGalore; 2010-11-06 at 8:32pm.
  #1864  
Old 2010-11-06, 8:33pm
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Thanks Lisa!
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  #1865  
Old 2010-11-07, 2:59am
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Gotta ask, Marina, how do you get those colors to work? Mine pop all over too Lisa.
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  #1866  
Old 2010-11-07, 6:48am
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I don't have the shattering problem anymore with the Rod Heater, but I do over heat and get color separation or devit on some colors...

This eyeglass holder Froggie is on the wonderful celery SOP, and I overheated it so it went to a mix of dark and light opaque and semi opaque. It's a neat organic look, but not one I controlled.

Here's a close up to show the darker color under the frog and the lighter on the back. I am on a Hothead. Any counsel on avoiding or controlling this problem?

  #1867  
Old 2010-11-07, 9:26am
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i just bought a huge order. look forward to getting it. wonderful beads everyone.
  #1868  
Old 2010-11-07, 11:45am
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Welcome bead-meltdown! Show us what you do when you can!
  #1869  
Old 2010-11-07, 8:01pm
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Marcy,
I use a rod warmer and work them cool initially. No problem unless I forget and lay the rod on the bench instead of back in the warmer and re-heat too fast. That's on the rods. As for the dichro... I'll have to report back after I give it a try.
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  #1870  
Old 2010-11-07, 9:23pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fine Folly Glassworks View Post
Welcome bead-meltdown! Show us what you do when you can!

shall do, can't wait for my order. kind of went out of control. i just hate my bead addiction
  #1871  
Old 2010-11-08, 4:05am
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Thank you Marina. I will persevere. I love some of the colors of the glass, but some days, I have problems.
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Marcy Lamberson
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  #1872  
Old 2010-11-08, 9:59am
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Here's a bracelet I worked up for a Christmas gift today. It's that time of year again!

I love this Transparent Ocean Blue. I have to encase it because it takes me a while to round it with my CG Bead Rollers, so the clear helps it hold up without devit. Since I'm on a Hothead I use thin clear stringers to wrap for encasing.

The Intense Black is encased and then pulled into a stringer before use.


Last edited by Fine Folly Glassworks; 2010-11-08 at 5:57pm.
  #1873  
Old 2010-11-08, 10:04am
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Kristina-love the bracelet!
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  #1874  
Old 2010-11-08, 3:52pm
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Thank you Bethany! I would love to see what you all are making.
  #1875  
Old 2010-11-08, 4:15pm
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Love the bracelet! Here is one of mine, using tiger stripe beads with a Devardi high intensity black base, devardi white and black stringers and Devardi, topaz, Light topaz and clear.
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  #1876  
Old 2010-11-08, 5:56pm
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Gosh Sonja, that is gorgeous!
  #1877  
Old 2010-11-08, 7:04pm
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I don't know Kristina, I am loving the blues in yours, especially paired with the black. Quite striking!
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  #1878  
Old 2010-11-08, 10:23pm
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I'm having a problem with Devardi Light Rose (D6). When I make a bead with a clear core and then put Light Rose on top, I get cracks.

I am making a set of color references for etched beads. I have over 30 individual examples using various Effetre, CIM, Reichenbach 104, Vetrofond and Devardi colors. Some of my favorites are Devardi Extra Light Purple, Golden Smoke, Light Charcoal and Lime Green. None of these colors requires a clear core.

I use a clear core to lighten the colors of the glass because etching tends to darken them. The Devardi Light Rose with clear core is a very nice, rich pink, the best pink yet. But it has cracked every time I make it. The cracks are visible on the side of the lentil shape. I first saw this when I used CIM Clear as the core. I thought that the solution was to use Devardi Super Clear (D1). I got cracks (see etched bead example). I then tried Effetre Super Clear as the core and got cracks again (see bead example on mandrel).

with Devardi core (etched)

with Effetre core

I had another cracking problem with transparent orange (D15) over a Devardi clear core. I made 5 beads. Three of them broke. These were the more common cracks where the bead cracks down the mandrel and you end up with two halves of a bead.

All the beads go into the kiln fine. The cracks happen during the annealing.

A little info about my setup - I have a GTT Scorpion that runs on natural gas and oxygen. I use a rod warmer for the Devardi rods. I anneal my beads in a kiln, with the following schedule:
Soak at 965 F (soak lasts throughout working time and 1 hour after last bead goes in.)
Ramp down at 180 per hour to 830. Soak for 5 min.
Ramp down at 300 per hour to 400. Kiln turns off.
An annealing program generally takes 10+ hours.

It is puzzling to me as to why a clear core would cause this problem. I read a blog from Pat Frantz some time ago that suggested using a clear core would solve cracking on encased beads. She explained that clear glass was the most molecularly neutral glass and created a buffer between the glass and the mandrel as they expanded and contracted. I believe that CIM clear is on the stiff side as is Devardi. On the other hand, Effetre Super Clear is considered a softer glass. I get cracks regardless of the stiffness/softness of the clear glass.

Any ideas?
  #1879  
Old 2010-11-09, 4:00am
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unfortunately Poppymallow, it seems that the transparent roses, both the light and the dark can't be layered with anything much either on top of or encased by. If you go back a several pages you will see several posts on this too. The light purple will crack every time I use it to encase white also. I haven't figured out what else to do unfortunately as it is such a lovely color and a white or clear base really makes it pop. I know someone has had some success encasing it in butterscotch, I think it was but that does change the color a bit. And my last batch, all five beads cracked within three days of being taken out of the kiln. Incompatibility cracks, not thermal cracks. Darn shame for sure!
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  #1880  
Old 2010-11-09, 5:39am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppymallow View Post
When I make a bead with a clear core and then put Light Rose on top, I get cracks. I get cracks regardless of the stiffness/softness of the clear glass.

with Devardi core (etched)

with Effetre core

Any ideas?

Poppy, my understanding is that cracks that run end to end are from cooling to fast. Cracks that go through and around the bead are incompatibility cracks.

Your images show the first type of cracks, so if I were you I would watch how I am handling the bead from the flame to the kiln or cooling process. I hope that helps. They sure are beautiful beads! Please show pics when you work it out.

You might want to do a search on annealing schedules here on LE. I know I have seen some.

Last edited by Fine Folly Glassworks; 2010-11-09 at 5:45am.
  #1881  
Old 2010-11-09, 6:33am
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Try Effetre clear with the rose. That is the only kind that I can get to work with either the dark or light one.
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  #1882  
Old 2010-11-09, 12:00pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fine Folly Glassworks View Post
Poppy, my understanding is that cracks that run end to end are from cooling to fast. Cracks that go through and around the bead are incompatibility cracks.

Your images show the first type of cracks, so if I were you I would watch how I am handling the bead from the flame to the kiln or cooling process. I hope that helps. They sure are beautiful beads! Please show pics when you work it out.

You might want to do a search on annealing schedules here on LE. I know I have seen some.
I have to disagree - those are compatibility cracks. Cooling cracks will go end to end, but will also be dead straight which these aren't. Jagged or irregular cracks are incompatibility.
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  #1883  
Old 2010-11-09, 3:27pm
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I have to disagree - those are compatibility cracks. Cooling cracks will go end to end, but will also be dead straight which these aren't. Jagged or irregular cracks are incompatibility.
Thank you for that extra information. I have never read that the cracks have to be straight to be cooling cracks. I appreciate you posting this.
  #1884  
Old 2010-11-10, 5:28am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppymallow View Post
I'm having a problem with Devardi Light Rose (D6). Any ideas?

Poppy, I did't add it before, but I wanted to encourage you to email Devardi directly. Natasha always likes to help. In case you or anyone else needs it their email is: info@devardiglass.com

I understand that the Scorpion torch runs very hot, and that can be an issue too.

I have found that Natasha and Daniel at Devardi know a lot about the different torches and how to use Devardi glass with them, so anyone who is struggling might want to email them. Hope this helps too!
  #1885  
Old 2010-11-10, 6:15am
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[QUOTE=Fine Folly Glassworks

I understand that the Scorpion torch runs very hot, and that can be an issue too.


Not sure if this is the answer either. I'm on Mag-Torch with propane, which is one step above a bic lighter...campfire....and I have posted having issues with the Dk rose too. Lots of people are having problems here, and we're all on different torches. I tired encasing with many different colors for a base, and what I found was, the butterscotch, when melted is about the same consistency as the dk rose. Blong stated having good luck with the effetre clear, maybe the clear is alot like the butterscotch. If the 2 glasses are cooling at the same rate, less strain on the bead, less likelihood of cracking issues.

Poppymallow, I don't see anything WONKY with your annealing schedule. Those look like incompatability cracks on your beads, given that you have jagged edges. Encasing the butterscotch truly does change the richness of the dk rose color, so take a page out of Bethanys play book and give the effetre clear. Let us know how you make out, and good luck !! Holly
  #1886  
Old 2010-11-10, 6:23am
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Holly, did you encase Butterscotch with the Dark Rose? It would be neat to see it. I haven't ordered any of it yet.
  #1887  
Old 2010-11-10, 6:59am
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Kristina, go back a page. The lentils that I posted were made on a base of butterscotch. I don't have any beads that are just plain dk rose over butterscotch. I did a tester bead and wasn't crazy about how the butterscotch seemed to suck the ever livin color out of the dk rose. I was trying to make beads that matched the big focal that's posted. That focal is on a base of butterscotch too.
  #1888  
Old 2010-11-10, 8:53am
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Oh I see. Thanks! So good to have you posting again.
  #1889  
Old 2010-11-10, 9:30am
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Thanks to all who responded to my post. I don't have any Effetre clear, just super clear. I will order some and do some experiments. I'm probably going to stick to spacer beads with this glass for now.

I am very impressed with the breadth and depth of knowledge that is available here and is generously shared. Thanks again.
  #1890  
Old 2010-11-10, 11:38am
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Poppymallow-the Effetre clear I have is the super clear. Sorry I just now thought about it!
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