Batch annealing

[Sadie Mae]

I have the following programmed into my kiln.
My questions are for batch annealing--

1. Do I follow this schedule at 1400? (I was told to change the first temp to 800 for batch annealing).
2. Do I really need to hold this for 8 hours? (I won't be adding any beads-- just want to batch anneal now!)
3. How full do I load my kiln? (I have an AIM BD94. I am only using the lid, base and fire ring-no shelves or furniture)
4. Do I leave the peephole plug in the whole time?
5. Does it need to vent? How and when?
6. How close to each other do I put the beads?
7. I have Bullseye Thin Fire paper underneath--is that ok?

Please help!! I want to stop being afraid of my kiln!!
Smiles, Sheri


Ra 1 = 1400 ( degrees per hour to ramp at )
oF 1 = 950 ( lower than annealing temp, referred to as the garaging' temp )
Hld1 = 8.00 ( 8 hours hold time )

Ra 2 = 1400 ( it will only take a few minutes to go from 950 to 968 )
oF 2 = 968 ( annealing temp )
Hld2 = 1.00 ( hold for 1 hour, the ANNEAL SOAK time )

Ra 3 = 120 ( equates to 2 degrees per minute, the ANNEAL RAMP )
oF 3 = 848 ( significantly below the 860 'strain point' to be safe )
Hld3 = .01 ( hold for 1 minute )

With Hld1 = 8.00, the kiln will hold at the 950 "garaging" temp for 8 hours. If you make beads for times longer than this, increase the 8.00 to what fits for you.

[fawnheights]

Do I follow this schedule at 1400? (I was told to change the first temp to 800 for batch annealing). -- I prefer to ramp slower, 400/hr up to 960

Do I really need to hold this for 8 hours? (I won't be adding any beads-- just want to batch anneal now!) - for batch annealing the "rule of thumb" is 1/2 hour for 1/4 inch - I personally set mine to 1 hour.

How full do I load my kiln? (I have an AIM BD94. I am only using the lid, base and fire ring-no shelves or furniture) Some people batch anneal in a ceramic container (toss all the beads in together like soup), some anneal on the mandrel, I tend to loosen mine from the mandrel and then restring them for easy carrying from my workspace to my kiln.
Do I leave the peephole plug in the whole time? Yes.

Does it need to vent? How and when? No.

How close to each other do I put the beads? Some colors soften as they get close to annealing temp, not enough to change shape, enough that if they're touching, they will stick together (they do come apart, but sometimes will leave a mark). I used to make sure there was space between all my beads, but found that bumping my temp down just a few degrees was enough to solve that problem.

I have Bullseye Thin Fire paper underneath--is that ok? Yes. You will find that the paper will start to disintegrate - vacuum out when it does. You can also put a layer of fiber blanket on the bottom.

This is a good article - http://www.arrowsprings.com/html/annealing.html

HTH, Dori

[Sadie Mae]

Many thanks Dori!! My kiln is running as we speak, and I'm VERY happy to say, aligned closely with your advice already--I guess the truth will be known to the neighbors when they hear my screams of joy----or wails of anguish!!

BTW-what does HTH mean??!!

[fawnheights]

Hope This Helps

Glad to hear it! I was surprised no one else had replied, there are many folks here with more experience and wisdom than me. Maybe cuz it's Friday night

[Diane (clarus)]

Hi Dori and Sheri,

It can be very intimidating when you're just getting started to get your kiln programming correct!

If you are just batch annealing, using your recommended schedule, you can eliminate the initial ramp and hold and just start with the second set of instructions starting at RA 2.

Depending on how big your beads are or if you have beads made with silver glass, you may want to hold longer, reduce the hold temp slightly, and change the ramp up and down a bit. But for starting purposes I think your program is fine. There is a TON of info here on LE about various people's preferred annealing schedules, plus a good book is "More than you ever wanted to know about Glass Beadmaking" by Jim Kervin which explains the process in technical terms.

Good luck and have fun!

-Diane

[Sadie Mae]

YEEEEEEHA!

Only one fugly bead didn't survive!! Thanks for all your help and prayers (oh wait, those were mine!!!)

How sturdy should they be after annealing? I tossed them all into a jar to show a friend and one broke with all the commotion and such....I was sad as it was one of my favorites (superglue, here I come)

[fawnheights]

They're still glass.

A clean break (like straight down the hole) usually means there was a stress crack already in the bead.