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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2010-11-03, 8:05pm
SteppingBird SteppingBird is offline
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Question My STUPID conundrum for the week...

Hi All.
I thought I'd get smarter as I progressed with my beadmaking skills...but I guess I had a huge brain fart...

I had my Moretti/Effetre 104 COE glass all nicely grouped in one spot of my giant glass holder and my Bullseye and other 90 COE grouped in another. While cleaning up my studio, I thought, "Gee, wouldn't it be nice if all those greens were together, and pinks, and blues, etc. and...without thinking...
STUPID ME MIXED THEM UP!

Egads...what was I thinking? So my question is this:
Is there a way to sort them out or am I just out of luck??

I guess I should post this in the thread about stupid newbie lampworking mistakes too..
Thanks for any help
Sandy
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Old 2010-11-03, 8:13pm
TBC Beads TBC Beads is offline
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Yikes! Umm...make only solid colored beads for a while?

Can't help on a solution for the issue, but I'm curious to see if there is one. Maybe you can match colors to online or other color charts?

Good luck!

ETA - I know this won't help you now, but it's a huge reason why I label every rod. I have several manufacturers I use now, and it's really easy to mix things up unintentionally.
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  #3  
Old 2010-11-03, 8:23pm
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You should be able to tell them apart based on the length of the rods. BE is 17".
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Old 2010-11-03, 8:33pm
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iirc, BE doesn't etch (bullseye peeps? is it true?) so if you've half melted something and can't tell how long it is, maybe that would help
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Old 2010-11-03, 8:39pm
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It etches, but not as fast as 104.
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  #6  
Old 2010-11-03, 10:13pm
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Hi Sandy,

It is pretty easy to get hypnotized by all those beautiful rods of color, isn't it...

Can you identify one or more rods as definitely COE 90 or 104? Or divide them into probable groups?

I haven't tried it myself, but I've heard about this stringer test:
http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1663

I have another thought...
Background: If you use boro punties to make murrini or complex canes with soft glass, then just let the punty + attached glass cool down, they pop apart. So I wonder whether this might work for COE90 vs 104. Flatten the end of one rod, then attach a small glob from another one to it? So if you knew the COE of the flattened rod, you might be able to tell whether the small glob was compatible. I'm on the road right now or I would test it.
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Old 2010-11-04, 7:35am
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Size should allow you to sort most. Post pix here of any you are not sure about.
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  #8  
Old 2010-11-04, 8:01am
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yes, sort out the colors as best you can, then we can help you figure out which is which. after you have them in groups, if you have a Hot head torch, BE will be the really stiff one that does not want to melt. lol (its true BE is very slow going on a HH, do-able, but slow) You should be able to color-wise determine the groups accurately. If you need help identifying the colors afterwards, we are junkies when it comes to that! good luck! keep us posted
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Old 2010-11-04, 8:46pm
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Thanks guys for all the great help. I'm going to work steady through the weekend to try and regroup them using your ideas. I'll also post pics here if I'm unsure -
Thanks again!
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  #10  
Old 2010-11-04, 8:53pm
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Oh boy, that sounds like a fever dream or something. Oh look, ALL my glass is all blended together and I have to sort it out. Ack!

Good luck Sandy; I hope you make out alright. I don't know where you live (I know that I am NOWHERE near any enchantment, lol!) but if you were nearby I could help you. I know a lot of colours just by sight.
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Old 2010-11-05, 10:47am
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When I run into compatability problems... leaving a 104 clear rod on the bench and using it w/boro. I do a test like so.
I take a scrap piece of known boro clear rod and do dots of unknown glass onto the clear rod. Melt them in well. Keep the different rods in order so you can match the dots to the rods; not so important with colors. I usually do several dots of each unknown rod around the known rod as a tripple check. It only takes seconds for the incompatable dots to crack or pop off. If it cracks or pops it's different COE.

Last edited by cheng076; 2010-11-05 at 10:50am.
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  #12  
Old 2010-11-08, 11:31am
SteppingBird SteppingBird is offline
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Thanks to all of you, I've managed to sort out more than half of my rods. However, I was one of the lucky people who still had a pound or so of the old Terra...it's mixed in somewhere and for the life of me I can't remember what it looks like in rod form. Whoever figures this one out and tells me how to sort it from the other rods of the same color wins 5 rods of old Terra!!!!
Thanks again..
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Old 2010-11-08, 6:45pm
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Terra is brown, and the first batch was variable - here's pics:



THe core (when you look at the ends) should seem more transparent than the outside.

You can test it by seeing if it strikes in a test bead, or dotting it on white, and see if you get a reaction. The white should brown/yellow around the edges if you're using a silver glass. or try it on ivory see if it strikes & turns dark around the edges.
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Last edited by scoutycat; 2010-11-08 at 7:00pm.
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  #14  
Old 2010-11-09, 3:26am
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this is why i only play with 104...

mixed in with my black is a single rod of bullseye...one day...
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Old 2010-11-09, 6:19am
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Ugh, deb, I hear you - I've got a bunch of mystery dichro - some is 104, some is 96 & I haven't a clue which is which. *sigh*
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Old 2010-11-09, 1:58pm
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my first terra was soo much lighter than what you are showing. Its almost like silver cinnamon or river rock light. It is really translucent in the center too. If i remember right it was slightly stripped with color and if the tip is melted it darkens up with a dark blue spot usually.

mine honesty looked more like this:

this is one of the archived colors that Jed has on DH. It is a test batch, but it is what my terra looked like, and what I could get it to do on a HH basically
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