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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips |
2010-11-04, 6:04am
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jun 17, 2005
Posts: 11
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help with bead release issue please
The bead release on my 1/2 and 5/8 mandrels crack horridly as they dry. I have not had issue on my smaller mandrels. I tried thinning release. It did not help.
Thanks for any suggestions!
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2010-11-04, 6:23am
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Bead Crone
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Join Date: Apr 01, 2010
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 434
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Sue, when you say you've thinned the release, how thin is it when you're dipping the mandrels now? Is it the thickness of, say, a milkshake, or more like heavy cream? And which bead release are you using?
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Pam
"I'm like a lizard. I need something warm beneath me, or I can't digest my food." -Santana
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2010-11-04, 6:26am
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Hobby Junkie
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Join Date: Dec 08, 2009
Location: Perkasie, PA
Posts: 1,967
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Have you used the mandrels before??? If not, rough them up with steel wool and then cook them in the flame until they are glowing red. After they cool, you should be able to coat them no problem. Sometimes the steel is coated with oil (which doesn't just wipe or wash off) and you have to burn it off first.
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Cori C-R
PS - This is what part of the alphabet would look like if Q and R were eliminated.
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2010-11-04, 8:15am
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Glass-aholic
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Join Date: Mar 21, 2007
Location: CT, tolland CT
Posts: 4,332
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what bead release are you using?
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2010-11-04, 8:56am
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I'm kinda biz-EE
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Join Date: Aug 08, 2007
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 3,610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BellaBean
Have you used the mandrels before??? If not, rough them up with steel wool and then cook them in the flame until they are glowing red. After they cool, you should be able to coat them no problem. Sometimes the steel is coated with oil (which doesn't just wipe or wash off) and you have to burn it off first.
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I agree. I run mine through a cycle in my kiln and they come out clean and ready for release.
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Astrid
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2010-11-04, 9:20am
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 31, 2010
Posts: 26
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Good question. I don't have my own equipment, so I use the mandrels and release they have at my local glass shop, but I seem to be doing SOMETHING wrong, because when I use the pre-coated mandrels, the release tends to flake off in the flame, causing my beads to not come off the mandrels once annealed.
I hope you figure your problem out. Mine's been bugging me for weeks.
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2010-11-04, 10:07am
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T.J. made me do it
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Join Date: May 09, 2007
Location: Tahoe-Douglas, NV
Posts: 1,120
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Heat them gently and slowly before getting them red hot. I have found if you cram them in the full flame when they are cold the release has a tendency to crack.
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Julie
-Outwest Art Glass
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2010-11-04, 2:24pm
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jun 17, 2005
Posts: 11
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you guys are great!
I have bucket o mud and looies. I have used both mandrels before, but i took a three year break from torching. Trying to get my groove back. Both releases were bought in the past four or so months. The release is starting to crack with in 20 minutes of starting to air drying. The looies is heavy cream thin. The mud is move thick milkshake. Even using the best cuss words in fast repetition is not helping. I am going to try roughing those puppies up a bit see if that helps.
Thanks again!
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2010-11-04, 3:28pm
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Glass-aholic
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Join Date: Mar 21, 2007
Location: CT, tolland CT
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sorry I have no experience with either one of these bead releases. I have found the best for large hole mandrels (so far) is sludge plus. the blue stuff. Even my smooth n tuff is not that tuff on these mandrel sizes. BUT i do know that to prevent cracking sometimes, if my mandrel is not quite behaving, i rub on the release with my finger first give it a good rub up and down then dip, and shake off the excess. it seems to help bind it. I can do this with new mandrels and not have to burn them off this way either. The release you are using may want to be thinner, or thicker for this this application. I know my smooth n tuff wants to be fairly thin, while i prefer my sludge thicker. good luck, keep us updated....
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WASHERS & TOPPERS - layering components for interchangeable glass topper and to use in other jewelry/metalwork.:
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2010-11-04, 4:48pm
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jun 17, 2005
Posts: 11
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Thank you folks. I shall be back at it this weekend. Updates to come!
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2010-11-05, 8:36am
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Bead Crone
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Join Date: Apr 01, 2010
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 434
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You said you're using Dirty Looie's...I've read that Looie's is meant to be flame dried only, and not left to air dry. You're supposed to dip a mandrel, dry it, make your bead, and then dip a fresh mandrel and repeat. I've never used it, this is just from reading online, but that may be part of your issue.
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Pam
"I'm like a lizard. I need something warm beneath me, or I can't digest my food." -Santana
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2010-11-05, 12:05pm
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jun 17, 2005
Posts: 11
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I was not aware of that Pam thanks. I really have not used the looie's much until now. Both have air dried after more thinning and it looks good. I will not be torching til tomorrow or Wednesday. I shall post my results.
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2010-11-16, 7:44am
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jun 17, 2005
Posts: 11
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Want to thank everyone for input. I roughed up the mandrels again and redipped. Seems fine now thanks again for help!
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