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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2011-04-01, 4:30pm
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Default clear cracking badly

I have a problem with some beads - both clear Eff Super clear 591006 and Reich are 104
These beads were made a couple of weeks ago and annealed right away.
I am getting cracks in the clear - but they just showed up today. What am I doing wrong?These are the first beads that have ever cracked on me since having a kiln.


Thanks for you help in advance.
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  #2  
Old 2011-04-01, 4:52pm
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What other glass are you using?
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  #3  
Old 2011-04-01, 4:56pm
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These 2 beads are only Rich Iris orange base and Clear - with Iris orange dots
Didn't get much color out the the Iris orange - still learning.
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Old 2011-04-01, 4:58pm
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Michelle - Is it possible that your Reichenbach Iris Orange is the 96 version and not 104?
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  #5  
Old 2011-04-01, 5:02pm
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I was wondering, but it has a tag from Frantz on it. I am guessing that it could be mistagged. These are the first 2 beads made of that batch of glass.
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Old 2011-04-01, 5:22pm
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hmmmm Michelle - just checked Frantz's site (I haven't been on it for so long!), it looks like it only sells Reich 104. . .
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  #7  
Old 2011-04-01, 5:24pm
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I had a problem with Effetre Super Clear cracking when I completely encased 104 Raku too, and this was about a year and a half ago.

I've also heard people on here having trouble with Effetre clear cracking recently, with glasses that normally didn't crack with it.
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  #8  
Old 2011-04-01, 5:29pm
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Humm - maybe I will try to encase other colors and see what happens. I will try some reich magic tomorrow. This is the first batch of Super clear I have used, and I pickled it. Not that it should make a difference.
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  #9  
Old 2011-04-01, 5:53pm
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I think that we have noticed this happening with the Effetre Super clear as well.
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  #10  
Old 2011-04-01, 6:02pm
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Oh no! Please say it isn't so - more clear issues!? When did you get your Super Clear, Michelle?
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  #11  
Old 2011-04-01, 6:17pm
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Yes ... oh no!
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  #12  
Old 2011-04-01, 6:23pm
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Yes, there was a batch of Effetre super clear that had cracking issues. Ask me how I know.
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  #13  
Old 2011-04-01, 6:49pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clan tabby View Post
Yes, there was a batch of Effetre super clear that had cracking issues. Ask me how I know.
Which one? Do you remember when you got it?
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  #14  
Old 2011-04-01, 8:18pm
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i got mine at the beginning of March
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  #15  
Old 2011-04-01, 10:35pm
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I have some of that batch (5 lbs to be exact) and have been using it recently. I'll try it out over some 104 iris orange tomorrow and see what happens (it might be that particular combo), I'll also try some other colors for comparison. I'll report back once I know.
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  #16  
Old 2011-04-01, 11:03pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayley View Post
Oh no! Please say it isn't so - more clear issues!? When did you get your Super Clear, Michelle?
I think I'll pass on that Super Clear. I may order some TAG Clarity.
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  #17  
Old 2011-04-01, 11:07pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKDesigns View Post
I think I'll pass on that Super Clear. I may order some TAG Clarity.
I have been using Super Clear since October and have not problem - I believe there are different batches floating around. . .

The tip of Clarity bubbles on my torch every time I put it back in the flame - very annoying. I understand that if it works with your torch chemistry, it's an awesome clear tho!
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  #18  
Old 2011-04-02, 7:39am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayley View Post

The tip of Clarity bubbles on my torch every time I put it back in the flame - very annoying. I understand that if it works with your torch chemistry, it's an awesome clear tho!
Quite a few of my Reichenbach rods do that and I can see a big scratch all the way down the rod. It doesn't boil, I just get one bubble at the end.
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  #19  
Old 2011-04-02, 9:00am
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I have found that ANY COE of Raku can crack when encased, the trick is just don't use too much under the clear. Also Any clear that you use might need to be peeled if you want it "super clear". I have a batch of Effetre super clear that is super crap! It doesn't help to be peeled or worked super cold, the crap is in the batch. I even have Schott S-8 that I pull from pucks that still have to be peeled and its $33.00 a lb as a puck.
I like using 16mm Vetrofond rods as they are with a small amount of peeling for a marble or pulling them down to use after peeling to have a nice clean clear to use over murrini.
I pull my own 96 rods from my furnace and then don't let them touch anything that will scratch them before I use them. I am trying to find a 104 cullet that I can pull my own rods from that is of decent quality.
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Old 2011-04-02, 9:20am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKDesigns View Post
Quite a few of my Reichenbach rods do that and I can see a big scratch all the way down the rod. It doesn't boil, I just get one bubble at the end.
I need to nip the tip of Clarity of the same rod time and time again - as soon as I take it out of the flame and let it cool a bit (still holding it, never setting it down), it starts forming micro bubble. Very odd. I stop using Reich clear to encase for it's too stiff for what I use it for.
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  #21  
Old 2011-04-02, 9:26am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike H View Post
I even have Schott S-8 that I pull from pucks that still have to be peeled and its $33.00 a lb as a puck.
Mike, good to know about encasing Iris Orange!

As I understand it, once the Schott puck is peeled and pulled into rod, the rods require peeling before each use for the surface of the glass re-oxidizes. I need to pick up a tile saw so I can cut the S8 down and learn to peel them without wasting too much glass!
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  #22  
Old 2011-04-02, 11:51am
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Hayley,

The Schott sometimes does oxidize in small patches as soon as it cools but, it is the most optically clear glass made ( in my opinion ) so it is worth it to me to peel. If you cut your puck with a saw you will have to peel the whole cut surface. Maybe you could just heat the whole puck and peel and pull. The small pucks are only 1/3 of a pound.
For the money I think it is the best bang for the buck out there. JMHO
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Old 2011-04-02, 12:09pm
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Does this mean there's a Schott clear in 104? Or am I confused? I thought Schott only made 90 COE.
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  #24  
Old 2011-04-02, 1:22pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike H View Post
Hayley,

The Schott sometimes does oxidize in small patches as soon as it cools but, it is the most optically clear glass made ( in my opinion ) so it is worth it to me to peel. If you cut your puck with a saw you will have to peel the whole cut surface. Maybe you could just heat the whole puck and peel and pull. The small pucks are only 1/3 of a pound.
For the money I think it is the best bang for the buck out there. JMHO
Thanks, Mike! I agree that Schott is the most optically clear glass made. There is no color whatsoever at the ends of the pulled rods. I am so bad at peeling that I want to start small thus cutting the puck in halves! lol!

I have done the calculations . . . it's $9.50 for a 150-gram puck if you purchase a tray of 50. It's $11 for eight pucks. At $9.50 each, it converts to $28.73/lb and at $11, it's $33.27/lb. The peeling process takes off roughly 10-15% for someone who is experienced but it's more like 25-30% (or MORE!) for me, thus making it about $40/lb. So it's equivalent in price to Double Helix Aether seconds. I don't know how well Schott works with silver glass so will be doing some testing . . . hopefully SOON!!!

Karen - Schott is available in COE109 in puck form. We used it for our paperweights in Loren Stump's class.
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  #25  
Old 2011-04-02, 2:36pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayley View Post
Thanks, Mike! I agree that Schott is the most optically clear glass made. There is no color whatsoever at the ends of the pulled rods. I am so bad at peeling that I want to start small thus cutting the puck in halves! lol!

I have done the calculations . . . it's $9.50 for a 150-gram puck if you purchase a tray of 50. It's $11 for eight pucks. At $9.50 each, it converts to $28.73/lb and at $11, it's $33.27/lb. The peeling process takes off roughly 10-15% for someone who is experienced but it's more like 25-30% (or MORE!) for me, thus making it about $40/lb. So it's equivalent in price to Double Helix Aether seconds. I don't know how well Schott works with silver glass so will be doing some testing . . . hopefully SOON!!!

Karen - Schott is available in COE109 in puck form. We used it for our paperweights in Loren Stump's class.

I agree that if you are not experienced with peeling your cost will definitely go up. Although, you could practice with the cheap stuff to minimize waste.
I see so many questions these days about which clear to get but, all clear will need to be peeled to a degree if you want that "perfect" clear.
I personally think that all lampworkers would benefit from peeling practice.
Maybe I'm just anal about clear but, if I put 1-2 hours in a piece with a ton of murrini I would like to see them clearly through the encasement.
Maybe you could just break your pucks instead so you don't have so much haze from the cut, thats how I cut my large 96 bars for blowing.
I hope it works for you in your beads. I have not used it to encase a large amount of base glass in a bead so I will be curious to find out how it holds up. When using 109 to encase 96 or 104 glasses like Loren Stump or Paul Stankard who make paperweights, the amount of the 96 or 104 is such a small % that they usually don't have any problems. I plan on using my Schott for implosion spheres or paperweights. Like I wrote in a previous post, I would really like to melt some really nice 104 clear cullet and work it in my gloryhole
to make some large spheres because the heat is so much softer that it is less likely to create and show scum. Loren offered me some Morretti cullet but, he said it was not very good so it would be a waste of my time.
I am working with someone on getting some 104 cullet but, it has not surfaced yet... I have made so much 104 murrini that I would like to use in spheres and I don't want to repeat them in 96 but, I might.

I was just having this discussion with a good friend of mine and she made a good point that if you are making something with a lot of background color you won't see all of the imperfections of most of the 104 clears available. It is most important when a piece is mostly clear to have that perfect clear.

I'll get off my soapbox now......

Last edited by Mike H; 2011-04-02 at 2:46pm.
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  #26  
Old 2011-04-02, 4:23pm
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another factor with weights and marbles is that a sphere or near sphere is an inherently strong shape & can put up with some stress. Lentil shaped beads (and I'm sure other shapes), otoh, seem to be less inherently strong & more suceptible to breakage.

Peeling is really quick and doesn't waste much, once you get the hang of it - I just wish the schott pucks were easier to get a hold of, or I'd use them all the time.
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  #27  
Old 2011-04-02, 10:46pm
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I'll bet it's the Raku.

Make a base of ...something, then encase with raku, THEN encase again.
It has a better chance.
Even when I make teensy beads with lots of clear encasement, they crack.
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  #28  
Old 2011-04-03, 7:01am
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I've bought Effetre Super Clear for the last four months and haven't had a problem, just got some of the 10mm ish rods and love them.

I use a glass cleaner wipe and then rub really well with a micro rag and they are quite clean.
The small 5-6mm rods just can't be cleaned enough to encase with though, I use them for my base layer. I prefer to make my base later with clear to help get my base size just right and smooth on the ends.
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  #29  
Old 2011-04-03, 8:01am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayley View Post
The tip of Clarity bubbles on my torch every time I put it back in the flame - very annoying.
I had the same problem. Thought it was just me.
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Old 2011-04-03, 8:07am
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Quote:
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I had the same problem. Thought it was just me.
Clarity is about the only one I haven't tried so I guess I'll stay away from it. I have a ton of Diamond clear that bubbles, not sure just what to do with it, afraid to even use it for the base.
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