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Safety -- Make sure you are safe!

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  #1  
Old 2006-12-05, 12:44pm
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Default Setting up new studio

I'm about to set up my new studio at our new house. It's going to be a garden shed, 8X10, it has a door and a window. I was thinking of getting either this kitchen fan:

MaytagŪ Jenn-Air 30" Under-Cabinet Hood
Model UXT5430ADW
Under cabinet hood with high performance 400 CFM centrifugal blower.
$299 at home depot

or the glasscraft hood kit:
http://www.glasscraftinc.com/product...m?part_id=7157

BUT after reading around on here... I see bad reviews on the glasscraft kit (barely enough CFM for the size of the hood?) and lots of poopooing of kitchen hoods.

So I don't know what to do now. Isn't there anyone selling an easy to install kit for us? There seems like there would be a good market for it... or maybe I just haven't found them yet?

I had a kitchen fan in my old studio with 400 CFM and it worked just fine for my needs... it was loud though, my only complaint.

Thanks,
Pam
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  #2  
Old 2006-12-05, 1:56pm
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or I guess there is something like this - http://www.aspenhotglass.com/Ventilation.htm and I could gut a cheapo kitchen hood and connect it all with duct? I would think I'd want a bigger fan than 265 cfm though? And can the fan go outside so it's quieter? Or are they already pretty quiet?

Clueless here in Seattle....
Pam
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  #3  
Old 2006-12-05, 3:28pm
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Design the hood FIRST (or workstation enclosure) then calculate the fan/blower needed to power it.

To calculate the requirements for ventilation, you have to do things in a certain order and the design of the hood/enclosure must be first. Everything else is based on the calculated size and everything falls into place from there.

I have a discussion of this process on The Art Glass Forum in the Library section, and I encourage you to start there.

The two articles are entitle "Tech Talk - Ventilation Basics" Parts one and two. http://www.artglassforum.com/forums/...splay.php?f=33
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Old 2006-12-05, 5:37pm
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Thanks Mike.

So, Ok... using your calculations, my kichen fan above (22"x30" with a 400CFM fan) falls about 100 CFMs short of requirements.

This one, that I can get for $500 used (30"x25" with 640 CFM fan), also falls about 100 CFMs short. http://www.us-appliance.com/zv--ssfss.html#

Now, is 100 CFMs that big a deal? If it is, can I somehow or another duct tape something onto the hood to make the opening a tiny bit smaller to compensate? Or change the size of the ducts to compensate? Or something?

On the otherhand, I'm having a hard time picturing how to hook up a squirrel cage blower, hood and venting in such a small space - it would be so much easier to just have a hood and vent it directly out the wall where the hood is. No? And how does the squirrel cage work? The square opening attaches to wall with hole in wall, and somehow the duct from the hood attaches to the round opening (opposite the motor?)

Thanks again,
Pam
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  #5  
Old 2006-12-06, 5:26am
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Pam - 100 CFM *IS* a big deal...its the difference between insufficient ventilation and good ventilation. Typically you can 'fudge' to about 10% plus or minus, but that's about it.

I do not recommend kitchen hoods or bathroom ventilators for just that reason - they are typically underpowered.

There are lots of pictures of fan/blower hood/enclosure set ups here in the safety forum if you are having problems visualizing how they are constructed.
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Old 2006-12-06, 9:04am
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thanks Mike, I know you answer these questions over and over again. And over again.

Believe me, I spent the day yesterday reading in three forums trying to figure it out - it's headache inducing, that's for sure. Lots of pictures of hoods, lots of pictures of duct, lots of people saying "fan in attic to reduce noise" and no pictures of that.

Having slept on it, I'm thinking the kitchen fan COULD work if I attached some flashing on the back and sides and brought that down to the bench - wouldn't that work? Then the number you multiply the square foot by would be 80 or 100, right?

I just want this to be easy - I don't know why someone hasn't put a system in a box to sell to people like me. I'd pay! LOL.

So I'm off to the hardware store to look for a cheapo hood and some flashing to attach to make the sides and back lower... and I'm going to gut it. And I guess I'm going to make the exhaust hole larger - 10 inches? Or 8? I guess I still need to figure that part out. Some smooth ducting of some size... and then I'll order a fan from Grainger? And I guess I'll need something on the outside to keep the rodents and birds out. That's pretty much it I think... I hope. Then it will be in hubby's hands to figure out how to attach it all and make it work.

Unless anyone has a link to a box system I can just order and be done with it???? (ever hopeful).
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Last edited by BlueBetween; 2006-12-06 at 9:21am.
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  #7  
Old 2006-12-06, 9:23am
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Buy the cheapest and largest size hood you can get, then gut it (leave the light in for additional task lighting). Remove the filters, fan etc.

You will have to open up the normal exhaust, and most home improvement stores have a thing called a "duct starter ring", that you can use to attach ducting to the hood.

The fan can be mounted anywhere in the system, and yes, they can be noisy, but most times the noise is from vibration. Be sure all the joints are sealed with metal foil duct tape - the vinyl tape is worse than useless over time IMO.

Use at least 8" ducting and keep the number of bends to a minimum.

To keep birds and rodents out, use 1" window screen material. It's fairly stiff and can be cut with diagonal cutters. Put a piece of duct down on the screen, and outline it with a marker, then cut to fit. Push it into the duct near the end of the run - it's ok if it bows slightly, the bow will help it stay in place.

Glasscraft has a hood, but IMO its got barely enough CFM's for its size.
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  #8  
Old 2006-12-06, 9:28am
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thank you Mike, this is very helpful
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  #9  
Old 2006-12-06, 1:02pm
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No luck at the home improvement store.

Am thinking... is this crazy? What about a galvanized steel washbucket, upside down, with a hole in it, the duct starter ring, ducting and the fan? Suspended by either chains or sitting on/in brackets off the wall???

I'm talking about one of these:
http://www.redhillgeneralstore.com/A79254.htm

Am I crazy? Hubby says I am. It would be too CUTE in my converted garden shed...

Thanks,
Pam
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Last edited by BlueBetween; 2006-12-06 at 1:15pm.
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  #10  
Old 2006-12-06, 1:18pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueBetween View Post
No luck at the home improvement store.

Am thinking... is this crazy? What about a galvanized steel washbucket, upside down, with a hole in it, the duct starter ring, ducting and the fan? Suspended by either chains or sitting on/in brackets off the wall???

I'm talking about one of these:
http://www.redhillgeneralstore.com/A79254.htm

Am I crazy? Hubby says I am.

Thanks,
Pam
Interesting........ I say it has potential, it has all the prerequisites once you add hole and duct starter ring.... Besides it has "character"...

Cheaper than kitchen hood....

Rough calculation says it would take about a 450 cfm blower to work with it...

Dale
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Last edited by Dale M.; 2006-12-06 at 1:27pm.
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Old 2006-12-06, 1:23pm
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yeah???? Whooo hooo!!!! It's going to be so cute, I'm going to paint flowers on it! LOL

Wonder what will cut the hole in the bottom though... a drill of some sort? Hubby has a sawzall...
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Old 2006-12-06, 1:32pm
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Sawzall will definitely do it..... Would take less aggressive approach though... Drill large hole and use "tin snips"....

Dale
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Old 2006-12-06, 1:37pm
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We have tin snips too Thanks Dale! I'll be sure to post a picture when it all comes together.
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Old 2006-12-06, 4:08pm
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Love the wash tub!! Very cool!!
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Old 2006-12-06, 8:08pm
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Is this the kind of fan I need? Don't know if the grainger link will work, they seem to time out sessions before you even get on:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1611769253


Blower,495 CFM,115 V
Shaded Pole Blower, Air Flow @ 0.000 Inch Static Pressure 495 CFM, Speed 1570 , Voltage Rating 115 Volts, Power Rating 225 Watts, Current Rating 3.25 Amps, Frequency 60/50 Hertz, Thermal Protection Auto, Wheel Diameter 6 1/4 Inches, Wheel Width 4 1/4 Inches, Air Flow @ 0.100 Inch Static Pressure 476 CFM
Grainger Item # 4C445
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  #16  
Old 2006-12-07, 5:25am
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Yes. That the fan.
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  #17  
Old 2006-12-09, 6:39am
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Pam and Mike this is a great thread...please post pics and $$ breakdown when you're done w/ your project!
xoxo
lori
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Old 2006-12-09, 7:43am
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Pam check out plant places particularly ones that grow plants hydroponically. They have the types of ventilation systems we use or ones very similar at higher CFM's you will need.
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Old 2007-01-12, 7:05pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueBetween View Post
No luck at the home improvement store.

Am thinking... is this crazy? What about a galvanized steel washbucket, upside down, with a hole in it, the duct starter ring, ducting and the fan? Suspended by either chains or sitting on/in brackets off the wall???

I'm talking about one of these:
http://www.redhillgeneralstore.com/A79254.htm

Am I crazy? Hubby says I am. It would be too CUTE in my converted garden shed...

Thanks,
Pam
Hi Pam,

This looks really cute. Were in the middle of a studio redo and I love your idea. Do you have any pictures of your set up. I'm thinking of using a vortex fan. Thanks for the wonderful idea

Dawn
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  #20  
Old 2007-01-13, 3:05pm
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Default Ventilation

Ahh......I see this has been a bit of thinking on all angles. I have to say the most cost effective way to go about it is to angle fireboard and cover in flashing if needed....and there is a ventilation fan (600cfm)that I setup for a former student that would pull sawdust up and out of the hood!! ~ just remember to install the fan where it will be most effective...if it is mounted in the range top hood like you had talked about it will most likely burn up and not to mention make noise.

~Enjoy~
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  #21  
Old 2007-02-09, 3:05pm
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Just popping in to get the link for my fan again. This is taking longer than expected because we decided to build a new garden shed instead of using the small one. The lumber is getting dropped off today, construction should start on Monday.

Here's what it's going to look like:


And here is where it's going:


And this will be my view:


I'll share some pictures as it all comes together, especially the exhaust stuff. So excited!

Pam
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Old 2007-02-28, 10:50am
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Just wondering if anyone has an opinion on how low my tub/hood should be from my worktop? Thanks!

I picked up two plant brackets yesterday that I'm going to use upsidedown to hang the tub from - they look like this:



and the tub:



I plan on sharing photos as things progress

Oh, and here is a picture of the studio, so far:

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  #23  
Old 2007-02-28, 6:40pm
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Front edge of hood (up side down tub) should be as low as possible, and long as you do not bump your head on it when standing or sitting at torch... IF you are 5'6" tall then bottom should be 5'8" or 5'10" ( or there abouts ) off of floor... Bench height may very as it may be built to a height that is comfortable for you...

Dale
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  #24  
Old 2007-03-20, 12:50pm
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OK. Today I picked up a length of straight/rigid 8" duct, an 8" 90 elbow, and a 8 inch end cap.

My plan (more or less in this order):

1. Cut hole in end cap, unscrew the thingy from the blower fan, stick end cap in between thingy in blower and screw it back on so that I now have something to attach the fan to the duct with.

2. Build a wooden box to go on the outside of my building and cut a hole in bottom of it to match rectangle hole in blower exhast. Screw fan to wooden box.

(Should I put a screen of some sort at this exhaust hole to keep birds/rodents/bugs out?)

3. Attach round duct to end cap on fan, tape up good and tight.

4. Stick duct through hole in wall, attach box to wall.

Outside part done... somewhere in between here the electrician will hook up blower to on/off switch?)

Inside part:

1. Cut hole in washtub, insert elbow and tape up good and tight.

2. Screw plant hanger thingys on to washtub for brackets.

3. Attach elbow to duct in wall, tape up good and tight.

4. Screw Brackets to wall.

Does this sound right? Am I missing something? Could I cut, say, a 7 inch hole in an 8 inch end cap and screw that onto my washtub/hood and attach that to the 90/elbow instead - thinking that would be more secure, but would it matter that the hole was smaller than the duct? Or maybe it doesn't matter afterall?

Thanks so much - I think I'm getting close now!
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  #25  
Old 2007-03-20, 1:13pm
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Yes on the screen.

Use the ring on the blower to form your template. If it is a grainger blower, the ring is removable with 3 screws. Use that as a template, then cut to fit. If you make it slightly too big, not to worry, the screws will keep it tight.
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Chaotic Glass: Safety for the glassworker, and random thoughts and opinions on the state of the glassworking world
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  #26  
Old 2007-03-20, 1:20pm
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Thanks Mike - yes thats what I was talking about with the removable ring thing on the grainger blower. Didn't know what to call it.

what about using another end cap for the washtub/hood though? Is it ok if that hole is a little smaller than 8 inches round?
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Old 2007-03-20, 1:21pm
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and another question - what would be the best tool for cutting the hole in the end cap? tinsnips? Something better?
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Old 2007-03-20, 4:32pm
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I got my end-cap on the blower:

Step 1:
Gather together blower, 8 inch end cap and a screw driver.



Step 2:
Unscrew the 4 screws off the round part. Take that piece and trace around it on the top of the end cap. Mark the screw holes.



Step 3:
Notice there is a lip that bends in and make another circle in between there so that it will fit back in the hole is cut. Hammer holes into the screw holes with whatever - I used a pointy screw and a screw driver to make my holes. Then I turned it over and hammered it all flat.



Step 4:
Start a bit of a hole by hammering in that screw a few times and then hammering in a flat screwdriver. Then take the tinsnips and cut away the hole.




Step 5:
Put the end cap and lip ring thing together and screw back on blower.



Be back with more as I go... still wondering about the size of the hole coming out of my hood though - does it have to be 8 inches or can it be slightly smaller???? Thanks!
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Last edited by BlueBetween; 2007-03-20 at 4:37pm.
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  #29  
Old 2007-03-21, 6:36am
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MikeAurelius MikeAurelius is offline
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Going into the hood should be the same size as the ducting. Use a "duct starter ring" instead of an end cap.
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Chaotic Glass: Safety for the glassworker, and random thoughts and opinions on the state of the glassworking world
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  #30  
Old 2007-03-21, 6:52am
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Fabulous, Pam!

Thanks for sharing the process with us.
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