Please help me take photos a new way - I need a change!

Lisi · #1 2009-07-05, 8:59pm

I need a change from the stark white background. I would like to have a graduated light to dark grey/black background or "floor" with the beads on a reflective "riser". So how do you guys do this?? What do I need to buy?

I prefer to buy the graduated papers because my printer stinks.

J. Savina · #2 2009-07-07, 8:58am

Hi Lisi!
Try this link to Table Top Studios. A little pricey but not too bad.

Make it a great day!

J.

RSimmons · #3 2009-07-07, 12:01pm

Try the Quantaray portable studio. Comes with lights and a tripod, too.

http://www.wolfcamera.com/product/301660023.htm

Robert

Mike Jordan · #4 2009-07-07, 8:09pm

Here are a couple of links to some graduated paper:

http://www.phototechinc.com/graduate.htm

http://www.bizrate.com/photographyda...rop+paper.html

Mike

Keith_H · #5 2009-07-24, 5:45pm

You know where a good resource for backdrops for beads, Scrap book supply stores. I go to Micheal's for my backdrops. I use them all the time. A sheet is usually under a buck and the quality is really nice.And there are all kinds to choose from.

When I get the gallery page on my website up you can see what I use.

Holaday · #6 2009-07-30, 7:46am

This is link to a mini tutorial on my web site. It shows one option for getting the effect you are asking about. It uses the "drop shadow" effect where the light creates the gradient, not the paper itself. I am constantly rebuilding this set-up and no longer use the paper diffuser at the top of the box, only the white fabric. All areas of the box are now covered in black so that no brown box color can be bounced into the photo.

http://carolholaday.com/htmlpages/st...tuponglass.htm

Mike's first link to a supplier for the Varitone paper gives the best deal for the gradient paper... although you have to buy a minimum of five sheets. If you are photographing small objects (such as beads), you might prefer the #09 paper over the others. I cut the paper in half for small set-ups.

This paper gets marks on it way too easily. Sure, you can Photoshop them, but what a bother. I do use this paper when it serves the purpose... however, shadows are less dramatic than those created by reflections on glass or plexi. I don't use the black plexi, even though I like the results a lot, because it is a MAGNET for dust and cat hair.... things that are plentiful in my workshop/studio.

greenglasscafe · #7 2009-08-01, 12:25pm

Your pictures are absolutely amazing. Thank you for posting this info. I am already running around the house trying to find stuff for a better setup! LOL

Quote:

Originally Posted by Holaday

This is link to a mini tutorial on my web site. It shows one option for getting the effect you are asking about. It uses the "drop shadow" effect where the light creates the gradient, not the paper itself. I am constantly rebuilding this set-up and no longer use the paper diffuser at the top of the box, only the white fabric. All areas of the box are now covered in black so that no brown box color can be bounced into the photo.

http://carolholaday.com/htmlpages/st...tuponglass.htm

Mike's first link to a supplier for the Varitone paper gives the best deal for the gradient paper... although you have to buy a minimum of five sheets. If you are photographing small objects (such as beads), you might prefer the #09 paper over the others. I cut the paper in half for small set-ups.

This paper gets marks on it way too easily. Sure, you can Photoshop them, but what a bother. I do use this paper when it serves the purpose... however, shadows are less dramatic than those created by reflections on glass or plexi. I don't use the black plexi, even though I like the results a lot, because it is a MAGNET for dust and cat hair.... things that are plentiful in my workshop/studio.

spencer · #8 2009-08-01, 9:07pm

Thanks Carol for the inspiration for me to try black paper under glass. I'm not sure if my glass is "non-glare", its a pane from a picture frame. I put it right on top of a piece of black paper and I am really happy with the results. Thanks

thatsmithlady · #9 2009-08-08, 9:52am

Quote:

Originally Posted by Holaday

http://carolholaday.com/htmlpages/st...tuponglass.htm

I don't use the black plexi...because it is a MAGNET for dust and cat hair.... things that are plentiful in my workshop/studio.

Too funny, I can only imagine what mine would be like if I let the cats into my studio...I would look like I was photographing furry jewelry. Your set up is most excellent. Would it work with black foamboard instead of a cardboard box? Thanks for posting/linking it.

Holaday · #10 2009-08-11, 8:45pm

I started with a cardboard box and made improvements on it as needed. Now that I know what works, what doesn't, I could remake it with only the black foam core. No incentive to do that at this point as it involves more expense for materials.

I would love to have a source for black glass... does it exist? Someone suggested black marble or tile or granite... but haven't found any that was smooth enough yet.

Still searching for the "perfect" material to shoot on.

Mike Jordan · #11 2009-08-11, 9:28pm

I have used an 18x18" black tile that I got from Home Depot. It shines up to a nice gloss. It's not a mirror finish but produces more of a softer image. I also like the earth tone 18x18" tiles at Home Depot as well. They come in adobe brick colors to leather brown and several inbetween. I also got a white tile but I didn't care for it that much. It was very hard to light without it being overbearing of what I put on it.

My favorite black reflective surface though is a large front surface (also known as a first surface) mirror. I put a very black heavy muslin cloth over it so that all that reflects back is the black cloth and the object that is on it when the lights and camera are placed right.

There are also mylar films and something that anyone familiar with building RC airplanes would know about, Monokote film. You can put a sheet of Monokote on a wooden frame (it tacks on with heat) and then use a heat gun to shrink it so it is very tight, wrinkle free and very reflective. It comes in lots of colors.

One thrick I've read about, but haven't tried yet is taking a cookie sheet (the type with sides that are about 1/2" or so high), put a black cloth in it and then fill it with water. Once it settles, you have a perfect black reflective surface and not dust spots. You can put small items in it to act as pedelstals for your jewlery and othe objects or just hang them above it. I plan on trying this the next time I need a black reflective surface. What 've read and seen it works very well.

For black glass, you could always get a sheet of Bullseye or another brand of fusing or art black glass. Or black plexiglass as was mentioned above.

What ever you use, lighting is key to it all. This is where light that you can aim and control fall off and spread is really going to make a big difference. Being able to control light very percisely is why I use barn doors, snoots, flags (black material that can be used to block unwanted light and reflections), and a variaty of other items to control light. A lot of these have been made out of cardboard tubes, foil, cardboard and a number of other things we all have around our house. With cameras that don't have the bells and whistles that high end models do, you have to be more creative, but it's still possible to do with a point and shoot that those with the most expensive cameras do... at least for creating images that will be shown on the internet are concerned. The internet image is a great equalizer amoung cameras.

Mike