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Jelveh Designs - Glass Beads Torched One-by-One

Beads of Courage


 

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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #301  
Old 2011-02-18, 9:42am
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That is so totally cool!!
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  #302  
Old 2011-02-18, 6:32pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalera View Post
My guess on the frit is that it's not getting burnt (some frits will soot up very easily in an even slightly reducing flame, but I don't think this is your problem) but that it's reacting. Many frits contain lead, copper, or silver, all of which will react by creating a muddy or dark line where it touches any glass containing sulphur, such as yellow, amber, or ivory. Try the same frit on a white or light blue base and see if you have the same problem; if you do, it's likely that your flame is on the reducing side and you need to turn down your propane or add more oxygen.

As far as I can tell, most jewelry designers prefer a smaller hole in the smaller beads they buy. Many, however, prefer a larger hole in focal beads, so they can string them on thicker/multi-stranded material.
Thank you - I will try it & see!
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  #303  
Old 2011-02-18, 10:22pm
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Aloha Kalera!

Would you mind sharing your source for the 5/64 mandrels? Mahalo!

- Alpha
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  #304  
Old 2011-02-19, 9:41am
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Kalera,
I am in Portland from KY for the weekend. If I was to visit BE, and don't own any 90 coe, what would be the color you would buy first? Would it be frit or rod?
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  #305  
Old 2011-02-19, 11:36am
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Aloha Kalera!

Would you mind sharing your source for the 5/64 mandrels? Mahalo!

- Alpha
I get them from Sundance: http://www.sundanceartglass.com/serv...dmaking/Detail
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  #306  
Old 2011-02-19, 11:39am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherylkroe View Post
Kalera,
I am in Portland from KY for the weekend. If I was to visit BE, and don't own any 90 coe, what would be the color you would buy first? Would it be frit or rod?
I use French Vanilla as a base for almost all my BE beads, so I'd get that, white, 1101 clear, silver foil, and an assortment of medium-saturation transparent colors in both rod and frit. Since the frit can ONLY be used on a 90 COE base, you will want the white, clear, and French Vanilla in rods.

That's what I'd get for my style of beads; there are tons of other options, depending on what you like to make.
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  #307  
Old 2011-02-19, 4:11pm
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Kalera,

Mahalo! You inspire me to keep trying and to find my "voice"- Alpha
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  #308  
Old 2011-02-19, 5:03pm
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Thanks so much, we went and for now I got french vanilla and clear. I do have some 96 frit already so I will play with that. Thanks so much for being so generous with your information.
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  #309  
Old 2011-02-19, 5:04pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherylkroe View Post
Thanks so much, we went and for now I got french vanilla and clear. I do have some 96 frit already so I will play with that. Thanks so much for being so generous with your information.
FYI Bullseye is COE 90, so 96 frit does not work with it!
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  #310  
Old 2011-02-19, 6:16pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piakaven View Post
FYI Bullseye is COE 90, so 96 frit does not work with it!
Wouldn't it work at the 5% level like it does with 104?
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  #311  
Old 2011-02-19, 6:29pm
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It figures!! I am looking for Dawn Canyon, wanted to buy it this payday and SOMEONE scarfed it up!

Okay, who did it? Who bought it before I could? Huh? Huh?...
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  #312  
Old 2011-02-19, 6:38pm
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You can use 96 frit with Bullseye. I go by the OCR rule of up to 20%.
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  #313  
Old 2011-02-19, 7:01pm
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I for some reason thought that BE is really finiky about other COE's, I guess it is worth the try... But yes, that 5-20% rule makes sense... I am just too skeered to try.
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  #314  
Old 2011-02-20, 3:26pm
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BE is definitely more finicky than 104, but many of the furnace glasses are actually COE 93-95, and I have used quite a few very successfully with BE. I do have to keep track of which I use, though! Not all of them like BE, and some don't like it AT ALL.
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  #315  
Old 2011-02-20, 3:42pm
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What is a furnace glass? Is it fusing and slumping glass? Is BE considered furnace glass?

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  #316  
Old 2011-02-20, 4:12pm
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"Furnace glass" is the (usually) deeply saturated glass most of the "96 COE" frit is made from. It's often called that as a sort of shorthand, because it was originally developed for larger-scale glassblowers who use furnaces rather than torches. Any glass can be used in glassblowing, but roughly 92-96 COE is most popular. Kugler, Reichenbach, Zimmerman, and Gaffer are all "furnace glass".
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  #317  
Old 2011-02-20, 8:48pm
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This thread just keeps on giving....a treasure trove of info. Thanks Kalera
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  #318  
Old 2011-02-22, 12:47pm
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Kalera, you are a true inspiration!
Thank you so much for sharing!!
Although I don't have any Bullseye, I am going to try similar colors in 104

granny
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  #319  
Old 2011-02-24, 11:24am
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Someone PM'd me about how I work R-108, and I thought I'd answer here in case anyone else was wondering; I don't reduce it, I just work it in a hot neutral flame. For the most part, anything I reduce will have a shiny metallic finish.
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  #320  
Old 2011-03-02, 11:48am
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This thread inspired me to pick up my frits again! Thanks for the inspiration!







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  #321  
Old 2011-03-02, 12:47pm
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Those are GORGEOUS! Thanks for posting them!
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  #322  
Old 2011-03-04, 6:25pm
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Beautiful beads - it inspires me to do something with all the frit I have!!
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  #323  
Old 2011-03-04, 9:47pm
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Hi Kalera,

Thank you for this thread. I can see that you answer every question which must be very time consuming.

I do have two questions that I'm hoping you can solve the mystery for me.

1) I'm seeing alot of frit beads that have square or geometrical patterns to the frit. Most of the beads that I make have more of a dot appearance, instead of getting a geometric pattern. I tried putting some clear frit over top first frit and it did give it a little geometric pattern, but not to the extent that I want. I would love to know how the heck you do it.

2) How on earth do you get your frit to go right to the bead hole. This is the reason why I do more gravity swirled or raked beads because I can't stand the base color showing through the ends. It kind of reminds me of the old white walled tires - in reverse

Thanks again for sharing your recipes with us and I hope we all do you proud...

p.s., I ordered your romance frit from That Frit Girl,and I can't wait until it comes here.
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  #324  
Old 2011-03-04, 10:15pm
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Thank you!

Janith, the more geometrical look I believe you are speaking of is due to frit spreading out over the base when it's heated, and kind of "pushing" against the neighboring bit of frit. That's partly the type of frit (I love frit that spreads a lot!), partly the base glass, and partly the amount of heat applied to the bead after it's rolled in frit.

To get really good coverage on my bead, what I do is put the frit in a measuring teaspoon, in a little shallow stainless steel dish to catch the overflow. I heat the bead to glowing, then lift the teaspoon up under the flame and roll the bead in it. Some frit overflows into the little dish. I replenish the fit in the teaspoon every third bead or so to ensure I have a heaping spoon, for best coverage. I got a bunch of measuring spoons at the dollar store and I find they are perfect for this!
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  #325  
Old 2011-03-07, 8:56pm
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Kalera Thanks for sharing!
I would love to see a Geode Tutorial!!
Paula
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  #326  
Old 2011-03-08, 12:58am
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I will do one! Thanks Paula! I always wanted to make geodes, as I have been fascinated with crystal-centered stones since childhood.
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  #327  
Old 2011-03-08, 4:50pm
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The ones I have seen from you are awesome!!
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  #328  
Old 2011-03-08, 6:06pm
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Kalera,
You mentioned using different viscosity of glasses to achieve a sparkle. Does each color of glass have a different viscosity? How do you find the viscosity of glass?
Thank you for all the help you've given in this thread.

Mary Di
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  #329  
Old 2011-03-09, 9:31am
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I'm not really sure how you find the viscosity of a given glass. Viscosity is a factor in compatibility; sometimes glass that is the same COE can be incompatible because the viscosities are too different. Most of the time it's fine though, and yes, even within a line colors may have slightly different viscosities.

That, brief though it may be, pretty much sums up the depth of my knowledge on it. Maybe a real expert will chime in?
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  #330  
Old 2011-03-09, 2:29pm
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I think it is just a matter of trying things out, like clear glass is often stiffer than white or ivory... that kind of things. I dont think there is really any data available for the different colors or glasses, it is just a matter of experience, that will grow each time you try a new glass. Good way to keep a track of things yourself is to make notes when you torch... something I should do much more.
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