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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2012-04-14, 10:02am
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Question Glass-tipped headpins???

I've seen some glass-tipped headpins offered here and there. I'd love to do something like this for my SCA customers for veils and other costume parts. What gauge and kind of metal wire would I need?

Please and thank you for your help!
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Old 2012-04-14, 11:31am
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I use copper in both 18 and 20 gauge; silver is also good. You can use sterling and pickle it afterward to remove the firescale.

If you plan to pickle both silver and copper, make sure you have different jars of pickle for each!
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Old 2012-04-14, 11:33am
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I have some headpins on my site in both gauges if you want to check them out: http://beadwife.com/?a=catalog.products&category_id=38

The detail page shows them with a penny, for scale.
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Old 2012-04-14, 11:47am
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There is a metal that is more heat resistant. I bought some on ebay years ago but I can't remember what it's called. Anyone know?
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Old 2012-04-14, 12:12pm
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Kalera - don't you have problems with the copper going dead soft, from being run through the annealing cycle? I've used copper wire fused into some of my glass bugs, but after annealing it's too soft (to push through paper hornets' nest, for specific example.) I've only experimented with this a tiny bit, so I'd love to know if I missed some important facts/processes!

I use steel "music wire", don't know anything more than that, but they have it at ACE Hardware. The gauge is pretty thin, like thicker mechanical pencil lead. The metal stays very hard after kiln annealing the glass. Have had any COE-related breakages yet (few years later.)

The only problem with this (for jewelry making, esp hair pins) is the sharp point on the end, left from cutting the metal. If you had a dremel, you could easily deburr the metal before melting glass on (I wouldn't tool it after glass is melted on.)
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  #6  
Old 2012-04-14, 12:24pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spixton View Post
There is a metal that is more heat resistant. I bought some on ebay years ago but I can't remember what it's called. Anyone know?
Nichrome? Kind of goes from silvery to gray. I've used it in fusing but not in the torch so I can't say if it would work or not.
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Old 2012-04-14, 2:57pm
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Thank you all! Several options to look into now. LE rocks, as usual!
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Old 2012-04-14, 6:05pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beast Master View Post
Kalera - don't you have problems with the copper going dead soft, from being run through the annealing cycle? I've used copper wire fused into some of my glass bugs, but after annealing it's too soft (to push through paper hornets' nest, for specific example.) I've only experimented with this a tiny bit, so I'd love to know if I missed some important facts/processes!

I use steel "music wire", don't know anything more than that, but they have it at ACE Hardware. The gauge is pretty thin, like thicker mechanical pencil lead. The metal stays very hard after kiln annealing the glass. Have had any COE-related breakages yet (few years later.)

The only problem with this (for jewelry making, esp hair pins) is the sharp point on the end, left from cutting the metal. If you had a dremel, you could easily deburr the metal before melting glass on (I wouldn't tool it after glass is melted on.)
Yes, it does go dead soft, and needs to be work-hardened.
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Old 2012-04-14, 7:25pm
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I use copper and brass in the torch. Silver I use epoxy after.
Gauge is 18, 16, and 20. When I first put the wire in the flame I give it a little melt (copper) and for the brass I use one of those cutters that makes it flat.

I LOVE to make them, made a bunch the other day
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Old 2012-04-15, 12:35am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalera View Post
Yes, it does go dead soft, and needs to be work-hardened.
Can you tumble-harden them with the glass on? I've been doing that with plain coiled brass with great results.
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Old 2012-04-15, 8:33am
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Originally Posted by DesertDreamer View Post
Can you tumble-harden them with the glass on? I've been doing that with plain coiled brass with great results.
Yes, that works. I have been leaving that step for the designers who buy them, because I don't know what their plans are for the headpins.
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  #12  
Old 2012-04-15, 9:24am
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So where are the pictures?

I have not made any.
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hand dyed silk ribbons in many colors!
WASHERS & TOPPERS - layering components for interchangeable glass topper and to use in other jewelry/metalwork.:
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Old 2012-04-16, 1:28pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalera View Post
Yes, it does go dead soft, and needs to be work-hardened.
Kalera, thanks. This is what a figured, but unfortunately not an option with a fragile glass bug fused onto one end. Guess I'll stick with steel for now!
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  #14  
Old 2012-04-19, 5:14am
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A few years back I used stainless steel the same as my mandrel steel. 316. I purchased a roll of .8 fine welding wire. Haven't had a problem with any of my pieces. It is very tough and springy. If I want to soften it I run it through my torch flame to a dull heat before i push it into my pin vice to add the glass.
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Old 2012-04-19, 5:39am
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All the stainless steel stems were wire wrapped before they were connected inside the barrel.
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  #16  
Old 2012-04-19, 5:48am
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Lovely Bev.
I've wanted stainless steel wire for ages so now I know what to get, but if you had to buy a huge roll I'd love to buy some of the wire from you.

I use copper and fine silver - the fine silver doesn't need pickle and can be work-hardened also.
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Old 2012-04-19, 7:35am
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Oh wow. I though we were talking about headpins like bobby pins for hair head pins.. Hahahahaha.. Omg blonde moments galore! the first time I looked at the title I saw 'hatpins' so i must have been on a head thing....lol
I get it now... Yea I'd make them right on the ends
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hand dyed silk ribbons in many colors!
WASHERS & TOPPERS - layering components for interchangeable glass topper and to use in other jewelry/metalwork.:

Last edited by jaci; 2012-04-19 at 7:37am.
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  #18  
Old 2012-04-19, 8:15am
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Someone posted a nice tutorial ( free) about how she does it, in short: she makes the head on a dipped mandrel then epoxies it onto a piece of wire.
Here's the link:
http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=212284

I've only made them using copper wire (in the torch), works well but I'd like to try sterling next!
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Old 2012-04-19, 5:29pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ekkie View Post
Lovely Bev.
I've wanted stainless steel wire for ages so now I know what to get, but if you had to buy a huge roll I'd love to buy some of the wire from you.

I use copper and fine silver - the fine silver doesn't need pickle and can be work-hardened also.
Hi Jennifer
I will never use all the roll, so you are welcome to some. Not sure how to pm from here. Can you give me your details through the GBM Aussie site?
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  #20  
Old 2012-04-19, 7:10pm
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http://www.etsy.com/listing/96603130/15-t_list_12
Susan lambert has some small quantities for sale on etsy.
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  #21  
Old 2012-04-21, 12:03pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jillybead View Post
http://www.etsy.com/listing/96603130/15-t_list_12
Susan lambert has some small quantities for sale on etsy.
Great find, thanks!!!!!
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Old 2012-04-21, 2:23pm
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If you want the silver look without your silver going melty, you can use tinned copper.

You can pickle sterling silver, fine silver, copper & brass together. You cannot pickle nickel silver & steel with fine/sterling silver & copper or brass. I don't know about aluminum or the tinned copper though. When you take things out of the pickle you can't use steel tongs either in the sterling/fine silver, brass & copper pickle. The steel reacts with the metals/pickle and will plate everything in copper. It's a bitch to clean up. BITCH!

Pickle #1: sterling/fine silver, copper & brass. USE COPPER TONGS!
PIckle #2: steel & Nickel silver. USE STEEL TONGS!
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  #23  
Old 2012-04-21, 3:16pm
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for a nice brushed gunmetal look, just run some fine steel wool over headpins made on steel wire.
I've had good luck with it, and bought a big bundle which is why I put small amounts on Etsy.
Thanks Jilly!
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Old 2012-04-21, 4:36pm
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I have a done some and used the epoxy method but I think I am going to melt them directly on, that seems to be a bit more stable, less time consuming and easier. I didn't realize you could to that without melting the wire.
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Old 2012-04-21, 4:50pm
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if you cut the wire long enough, you can hang onto it without it getting hot.
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Old 2012-04-21, 8:33pm
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http://lampworketc.com/forums/showth...glass+headpins

Sally- we think alike! lol

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  #27  
Old 2012-04-22, 8:46am
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Spixton, were you perhaps thinking of Kanthal high temperature wire?

I have some for use in the ceramics kiln. Am going to try making some head pins on it.
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  #28  
Old 2012-04-25, 8:55am
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Here's one of my headpins wrapped up to hang on jewelry. That's how the steel works out.

I feel bad about popping the price up 30 cents on my wire, but paypal takes .39 can you believe it? geesh....

GlassPuppy did you try the high temp wire? I'm curious how it turned out. Did it keep it's silver color?
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  #29  
Old 2012-04-25, 11:08am
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Thanks for the tip about ACE. Mine had two or three thicknesses of music wire; I got four 3-foot pieces for less than $3.
Lee

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beast Master View Post
I use steel "music wire", don't know anything more than that, but they have it at ACE Hardware. The gauge is pretty thin, like thicker mechanical pencil lead. The metal stays very hard after kiln annealing the glass. Have had any COE-related breakages yet (few years later.)
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Old 2012-04-25, 11:36am
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Susan the wire in your photo looks green on my monitor... is it just the stainless steel color change from the heat, or did you patina it somehow? Looks like the wire is pretty soft after it has been in the flame ~ I really like that look alot!


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