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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips |
2010-03-04, 12:37pm
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as in the state
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Join Date: Feb 05, 2006
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Woo!
I got my glass today. Except the box was torn open and of all things to be missing...the dichroic/clear beads I was hoping to play with!!
I emailed them with the 3 things that were missing, so I anticipate all will be well! I can't believe the UPS guy loaded that box on his truck with it being opened the way it was... (my little brother used to drive for a home delivery mogul and said he wouldn't have loaded it because it becomes the driver's responsibility..)
Anywho, the colors are amazing...the peaches and browns and pinks are to DIE for!! I can't wait to play!!
-Amy
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Carlisle MiniCC with 2 Devilbiss oxycons
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2010-03-04, 1:05pm
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as in the state
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She emailed me back within 5 minutes to tell me replacements were on their way. Awesome!
I will be sure to post pics of the stuff I do!
-Amy
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Carlisle MiniCC with 2 Devilbiss oxycons
B8 with pond air pump!
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2010-03-04, 1:42pm
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Senior Member
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I ordered some of those beads too. Sorry your box was torn open. I know that would have been disappointing.
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Cynthia
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2010-03-04, 6:04pm
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as in the state
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It was a little disappointing, but she was super fast about getting back to me. Within the hour I had gotten an email from her saying replacements were on the way, and an email from paypal saying they had been shipped. No muss, no fuss, no problem!
There are some gorgeous colors I can't wait to melt!
I suspect using those beads is going to be a bit of a challenge, but I think if you do them a few at a time so you don't have to heat the bead for insurance heat before you get them encased, that should help... that's my plan of attack, anyway.
-Amy
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Carlisle MiniCC with 2 Devilbiss oxycons
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2010-03-04, 6:45pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverRiverJewelry
Does anyone know if their intense black works like the intense black that spiders when heated to high temps?
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Are you wondering about the high-density black? I haven't pulled it into a stringer to see how it behaves in high heat.
I REALLY like it. It doesn't pit and sparkle when reheated as Effetre tends to do. It's going to be the new black that I use for bases of my bumpy beads.
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Evelyn
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2010-03-04, 8:45pm
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Yes I am wondering about the high density black. I tried to super heat the frit but it didn't really react but haven't tried stringers yet. Hmmm that will be on my list for the next torch time.
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Sonja
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2010-03-04, 9:05pm
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I don't think that the high-density black is comparable to the Effetre intense black. It appears to be Devardi's "basic black" which is an awesome black in my book. It behaves so nicely in high heat.
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Evelyn
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2010-03-04, 9:11pm
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MonaRAEbeads.com
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fine Folly Glassworks
Thank you! And PLEASE do tell how you like the Cricket. I am wanting to upgrade from a HH in the near future and would like to hear from people using either the Cricket or the Nortel Minor for detail work!
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I'm on a minor. I'm not sure what kind of detail work you are looking for. I had a second go at the glass and am a little happier with the results, however the clear I used ruined all my pretty encased dichro chrystals. I have been too busy to take pics; I have a promise of the super clear when it comes in. Can't wait until April!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by CO_Phantom
Woo!
I got my glass today. Except the box was torn open and of all things to be missing...the dichroic/clear beads I was hoping to play with!!
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I got some of those and they are so super pretty. However, I tried to use them like sugar coating. I couldn't get the davardi base hot enough to pick up enough of them, and then I couldn't melt them in enough so they wouldn't pop off once cooled. I thought maybe I should pick them up with a melted blob of clear and then sandwich them onto the base, but I don't know how I'm gonna avoid bubbles. The dichro is heat sensitive, probably more so in this form, and will burn off even if encased. The video online doesn't cover the beads, so if you figure out how to use them successfully, let me know.
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2010-03-04, 9:20pm
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Mar 04, 2010
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Even I like some pictures which are on the glass.I do like to paint on the glass.i will paste pictures in my next post.Are anyone interested for glass paintings...?If yes please post me the pictures.
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2010-03-04, 10:12pm
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Creatrixie
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I wanted to say how much I appreciate all the videos that Daniel at Devardi has been making and posting.
They really help for those of us who like to "hang over someone's shoulder" to learn!
I can't wait to try out the Devardi sampler of odds that I ordered and the dichro.
(I might not get a chance to use my Devardi glass until this summer, but I fully plan to buy some of that new metallic copper and sparkly pink when it comes in!)
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~Mary
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2010-03-04, 10:57pm
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as in the state
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Oh, I'm so gonna be all over that metallic copper when it comes in! That looks awesome!
-Amy
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Carlisle MiniCC with 2 Devilbiss oxycons
B8 with pond air pump!
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2010-03-05, 9:26am
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MonaRAEbeads.com
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Here's a tip for those of you using Devardi dichro.
If you hold your mandrel in your left hand, hold the bead to the right of the flame and start application of the dichro on the far right of the bead. That way you can continue adding heat on the left end of the bead without exposing the dichro that you've alread applied.
If you hold the mandrel in your left hand, just go the opposite direction on the opposite side of the flame (as stated above.)
It really made a difference on my second try to figure this out because my base bead wouldn't stay hot enough. It is true that it takes patience but the dichro is so pretty and really worth it.
Another thing I noticed is that on the video the squasher tool is used to smooth and shape the encasing. The Devardi glass is "sticky" more than it is "flowy". It takes longer to melt in the clear if you use heat alone. I was surprised at how maleable the melted glass is before it actually starts to glow.That's why their tool seems to work to keep the dichro without burning the color. I don't have the tool, so I used my press to smash and shape the clear after encasing. I got it hot enough to smash, but not to the core...it didn't even glow really. Seeing that it moved with the press taught me that the glass was hot enough.
On my first try with clear encasing I hadn't realized the glass was hot enough to shape. When I use Moretti, I use a very light touch when marvering to shape the bead and I use gravity more than the marver. With the Devardi glass I have to use more pressure to move the glass around, so a press works great. I think the language that makes me understand this characteristic about Devardi is not that I have to work it cooler, but that it is hotter than the glow indicates and ready to move on the bead sooner than I think. It melts faster than the Moretti, and it is stickier/thicker, and it doesn't need a lot of heat/glow to be moved around with your tools. I think it will be a great sculpting glass for me because I can physically move the glass around with tools.
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2010-03-06, 7:58am
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Senior Member
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Mona, thanks so much for posting this. I'm glad you gave the glass another look, now you can see what lot's of us are raving about. You did a beautiful job of explaining the working properties of the glass !!! I do mostly sculptural work and this glass is great for that. That's what I've always loved about it. This is why we started the threads, to help one another and share information. My first week with the glass was frustrating, but I was very new to lampworking when I first started using it and EVERYTHING was frustrating for me. I'm so glad I stuck with it.....it is now....hands down...my go-to glass. I have one of the tools they use in the videos but I use lots of other tools too. Once you get it sorted out, the sky is the limit with this glass.!!
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2010-03-06, 8:18am
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Senior Member
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Anybody know what color this is? I got it as a free sample. It's not SOP Jade or Baby Green..
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2010-03-06, 8:49am
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Senior Member
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redahy, I have no clue, but send the pic to Natasha, I'm sure she'll be able to figure it out. It's a beauty by the way and I'm not just talking about the glass.
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2010-03-06, 9:19am
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Is it a marine green?
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Evelyn
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2010-03-06, 11:54am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evvybuns
Is it a marine green?
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I think so....i that color....it's amazing with a bit of the ~96 frits (try Val Cox's one with the similar base--I think it's "fairy dust")
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new purple cricket @ home! minicc @ playing with fire in rockland! Sue & Nikki fighting over who gets to anneal the wonkies To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
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2010-03-06, 12:55pm
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I was just looking at the Devardi site, and now I'm thinking that the color may be the SOP blue green. I think that the SOP marine green would be a little darker.
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Evelyn
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2010-03-06, 5:07pm
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Thanks guys for your help! I have all of the colors mentioned and it's not any of those. It's super lovely in person sort of like a lighter creamier jade. Makes me think of a parrot. Lol!
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2010-03-06, 6:18pm
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Hot Glass Neophyte
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Devardi Color Chart
Hey Everyone, I wanted to post the link to the Devardi Color Chart. It can be hard to find on the site at times:
www.devardiglass.com/chart.html
Great work you guys! Keep sharing and posting! Happy Day!
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2010-03-06, 6:35pm
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Senior Member
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Devardi's Murrini
I've received several small baggies of large pieces of murrini as gifties with my glass orders but I can't figure out how to use such large pieces. I tried cutting them in half but they shattered. ACK! What to do?
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2010-03-06, 7:33pm
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as in the state
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Are you preheating your murrini in any way? (torch marver, in a kiln, on a hotplate?) That will help with the larger pieces.
How big are you talking about?
-Amy
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2010-03-06, 8:59pm
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MonaRAEbeads.com
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cool color chart, thanks!
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2010-03-07, 10:57am
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i have a 6'' piece of the murrini & no kiln to pre-anneal it--I haven't been able to successfullly nip slices off of my piece either--it's maybe a 7mm rod?
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2010-03-07, 11:27am
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Hot Glass Neophyte
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I was told that sharp Wire Cutters (like from Lowes) can shave off thin slices of murrini. Has anyone tried that?
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2010-03-07, 12:03pm
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MonaRAEbeads.com
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lunamoonshadow
i have a 6'' piece of the murrini & no kiln to pre-anneal it--I haven't been able to successfullly nip slices off of my piece either--it's maybe a 7mm rod?
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6" is Perfect length! Apply the murrini as you normally would (heat the spot, plunge in the murrine); then blow on it to cool enough that the murrine rod will break off flush with the surface of the bead. No waste, no slicing, no wrong size!
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2010-03-07, 5:58pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CO_Phantom
Are you preheating your murrini in any way? (torch marver, in a kiln, on a hotplate?) That will help with the larger pieces.
How big are you talking about?
-Amy
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About triple the size I normally get from frit sellers. Not rod size. Maybe I'm just going to have to make a really big barrel or round bead. I have a bunch of them so I can experiment a lot. Thanks
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2010-03-07, 11:38pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monarae
6" is Perfect length! Apply the murrini as you normally would (heat the spot, plunge in the murrine); then blow on it to cool enough that the murrine rod will break off flush with the surface of the bead. No waste, no slicing, no wrong size!
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Can you snap a 7mm rod? I've done it with smaller rods, but I've never done it with something that thick...
(I've done the "twist & snap" with stringer, so I know the theory, I just didn't think you could do that with something this thick & not break the bead release, etc....)
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2010-03-08, 10:49am
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MonaRAEbeads.com
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If there is enough difference in temp between the part that is in the bead and the part that is not, it should work without breaking your release. Of course that is theory, as I've never had a 7mm murrini rod. When you snap it off, it might work better if you pull the rod in the direction of the mandrel rather than in the direction perpendicular to the mandrel.
I've also seen another method where you use the nippers after you plunge the murrine rod into the bead. I've never tried it and it looks awkward to do, but maybe that is just me.
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2010-03-08, 11:26am
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as in the state
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monarae
I've also seen another method where you use the nippers after you plunge the murrine rod into the bead. I've never tried it and it looks awkward to do, but maybe that is just me.
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Yeah, it can be kinda awkward, but it does work. It's not my favorite way of doing it, but it definitely can be done for thicker pieces that you can't break off. If you're going to try plunging a murrini cane that's as thick as a thin rod, then I would plunge it, and then nip it off with nippers. You get the hang of it after a few cuts.
-Amy
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