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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2013-11-22, 2:09pm
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Default any tricks for working in the cold?

I do not have a kiln.
I would like to do some work in the garage (detached) very openish
its freezing at night
so
I have 104 and 33 to use.

which is better to work with - stuffing in a coffee can of vermiculite.

any tips on doing work in these conditions??
does the cold make much difference since there is noit a huge jump from working in 35 degrees to 70 degrees when you dont have a kiln....
does the glass feel the difference ?
Is it just a level of comfort for me?

your thoughts??
no - i am not getting a kiln at this time...
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  #2  
Old 2013-11-22, 3:08pm
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I'd vote for boro, it is less shocky for one, it takes more heat to melt so more warmth from the torch, and lastly it will probably do better with not cracking until it can be annealed properly.
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  #3  
Old 2013-11-22, 3:31pm
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I have trouble working with 104 on a mega minor with a concentrator below about 6 degrees celsius, in those conditions. That's why we're currently trying to insulate the garage. I figure the kiln and torch heat should be enough to heat the garage while I'm working, if the heat is held in by something. You can do either glass from a fiber blanket/vermiculite perspective, but if doing 104, avoid making large pieces.
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  #4  
Old 2013-11-22, 3:32pm
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The unspoken comment is that I think it would be nearly impossible to get enough heat to effectively work boro in my garage as it is.
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  #5  
Old 2013-11-22, 4:03pm
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Pressed beads need to be really evenly heated after you press them. They are more prone to breakage in colder weather when you are not using a kiln.
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  #6  
Old 2013-11-22, 5:17pm
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I found a few tricks for working in winter.

Using 104 glass, unheated vermiculite and a hothead.

Wrap a wool blanket around your back and legs to keep them warmer.

Work on small spacers and smallish round beads first. They will heat up your vermiculite.

When your vermiculite is warm, THEN you can start on the bigger and pressed beads.

Other than that I didn't have any issues with temperature, except I had to get up and move around a bit more often.
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  #7  
Old 2013-11-22, 7:47pm
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If you have a work bench consider putting sides on it, a small cube heater can keep your leg warm at least.
Just make sure to turn everything off when you shut down.
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  #8  
Old 2013-11-23, 11:02am
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There's some more info in this thread about staying warm:
http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=232868
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  #9  
Old 2013-11-23, 3:08pm
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In Chicago where I recently moved from, I found the the area around my working space needs to be kept warm for the glass. I did / do this by using a tall halogen light behind me. It produces lots of heat both for me and for my work space. You can buy the halogen lights at the major hardware stores - Lowe's, Home Depot, Menards for around $30.
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  #10  
Old 2013-11-23, 5:07pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glass obsessed View Post
In Chicago where I recently moved from, I found the the area around my working space needs to be kept warm for the glass. I did / do this by using a tall halogen light behind me. It produces lots of heat both for me and for my work space. You can buy the halogen lights at the major hardware stores - Lowe's, Home Depot, Menards for around $30.
Great idea!
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  #11  
Old 2013-11-23, 7:07pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one hot beader View Post
Wrap a wool blanket around your back and legs to keep them warmer.

Work on small spacers and smallish round beads first. They will heat up your vermiculite.

When your vermiculite is warm, THEN you can start on the bigger and pressed beads.
Great tips about working small first to heat up vermiculite, thanks a lot!
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  #12  
Old 2013-11-23, 10:22pm
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A rod warmer made all the difference for me. Devardi sells them for about $40. I was still freezing, but the glass stayed warm.
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  #13  
Old 2013-11-24, 2:42pm
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Another idea for a rod warmer - I was gifted a used coffee cup warmer. I put an empty mug on the warmer and then put in my rods. Works great for me.
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  #14  
Old 2013-11-24, 4:30pm
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Default glass 101

There are quite a few books about lampworking that will help you make a bead and keep it from cracking. Try one. Mostly I think they just tell you to put it somewhere to cool very slowly. Try it.
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  #15  
Old 2013-11-24, 4:44pm
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Before I had heat in my shop I used one of those little square box heaters (about 6 x 6") to stay warm, but I like the suggestion to use the halogen lights, too.

You will need to be extra careful and take more time to heat your rods. The mug heater is a good idea. You can use it to heat murrini and keep rods warm. I got mine at a goodwill for a buck.

Before I remodeled my small glass kiln to make beads I used a little crockpot ( from the same goodwill for $3) with the "annealing" beads to keep my beads warm while I worked. It was rare to lose a bead but I was careful to keep the size on the small side. (They are called annealing beads but they DO NOT anneal.)
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  #16  
Old 2013-11-24, 5:13pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riosanjuan View Post
There are quite a few books about lampworking that will help you make a bead and keep it from cracking. Try one. Mostly I think they just tell you to put it somewhere to cool very slowly. Try it.
I think the OP raised an interesting topic, how can a book tell you what everyone does when working in the cold?

Neat info on the halogen lamps...safe for outdoor use? I need to go look.

And yeah, forgot about shocky glass. PITA.
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  #17  
Old 2013-11-25, 8:17am
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When I first started I had several electric heaters in my garage and I only worked in the garage when it was -18Celius or warmer. I used vermiculite and I made smaller beads at the time.

If you are worried about shocking glass, go to the welding shops and checkout the special container welders use to keep their welding rods warm, I wonder if that will work?!
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  #18  
Old 2013-11-25, 10:50am
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I think you need to burn the books to provide additional heat to the room.

Keeping a room warm with ventilation could be tricky.
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  #19  
Old 2013-11-25, 12:45pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rough_necked View Post
Keeping a room warm with ventilation could be tricky.
This. I haven't been able to achieve it. I wear a hat and use a space heater to help keep me warm, and keep my rods near the torch to help them stay warm, but it's never all that comfortable.
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  #20  
Old 2013-11-25, 2:41pm
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get wool sweater and cut the sleeves enough to make finger less gloves. put a couple stitches in between the thumb and forefinger. Won't burn as fast, keeps your hands toasty. Wear wool sweater under your coat. keeps you warm too.
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  #21  
Old 2013-11-25, 5:42pm
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I think my lower limit is 55 degrees. I also think that's about the limit of the oxy con as it isn't as effective below that temp. I know I read that in a thread on here somewhere.
I got some of those hand warmer things that you can buy at a sporting goods store, you shake them and they become hot, little baggie type things. I slide those in my boots to keep my feet warm, my upper body stays warm from the torch.
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  #22  
Old 2013-12-01, 4:51pm
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Ventilation is going to rob what ever warm air you have around you unless you can get the 'make up' air to come in front of the torch and then go up and out through the fan.

I have my torch right in front of a window that I crack open about one quarter of an inch or less. This allows most of the air that goes out through the fan to come from the window instead of from behind me. Smoke testing will help you figure out just how much is enough.
I suggest seeing threads about safe ventilation first because if you get that part wrong you can wind up breathing stuff the will hurt you.

I picked up a George Forman grill to use as a rod heater for $5 but the difference between a 250 degree food cooking grill and the 1700 degrees of a torch isn't a lot different than a winter cold 32 degrees and the 1700 degrees of a torch to my mind. I really don't have enough experience to know yet.

Infrared heaters are really a good idea because they heat objects instead of air. Putting one above you or over your shoulder will warm up the work bench and tools. The halogen lights can kick out a lot of infrared heat but that is not what they were designed for.

I like a small space heater at my feet that I can move with my shoes to get it just where I want it.

Remember that the glass will have a tendency to pop and that you are likely to get burn marks on your coat, hat and gloves so although you want to be warm you may not want to ruin your best with burn holes. People may think your smoking something.

If you are going to use fiber blankets go with the larger area and thickness and may be even two separate blankets. It important not to expose the last bead you made while sticking the next one in the blanket. And give your work a nice long heat soak before "quickly" putting it to bed. Make your self get out of the habit of admiring your work before sticking it in the blanket. Put them away and look at them later or you will lose them.
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  #23  
Old 2013-12-01, 5:19pm
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Oh, good advice about the fiber blankets, Phill! I'll add a few more:

Don't put the beads too close together when you add more, or the heat from the new bead will crack the other, cooler ones. You'll be left scratching your head later wondering how that happened!

Wrap around the outside of the fiber blanket "sandwich" with aluminum foil, it helps keep more heat in. Practically speaking, it can also help hold your blanket together when it starts to fall apart.

Personally, if I had to do it again, then I would go with annealing bubbles. I might, anyway.
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  #24  
Old 2013-12-01, 6:18pm
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I am thinking about getting the annealing bubbles. not to worried about me being cold, just keeping the glass good.
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  #25  
Old 2013-12-01, 7:58pm
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I have Reynaud's so my feet actually lose circulation when working in the cold. I use a small space heater under my bench and use those hot feet slippers (you heat in microwave) as soon as I come in from the shedio. I am considering getting some electric socks. I'm warm enough up top from the lights and torch.
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Old 2013-12-01, 8:30pm
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It goes without saying that the fiber blankets are not something you want to inhale in any fashion so, of course, so I will say it now. Keep track of how your fiber blankets are holding up and toss them when they start shedding a lot.
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Old 2013-12-02, 1:30am
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Shoot, that would be every two weeks.

Yeah, get the bubbles. A large tin costs the same as two thick blankets, good deal.
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Old 2013-12-02, 6:39am
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I have seen folks wrap the fiber in foil like a sandwich and crunch or fold a lot of foil at the front as a handle. Treated gently it should go for quite a while. But then I did not have any patience so I built a mail box kiln as soon as I could get the parts in my hands.
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Old 2013-12-02, 11:24pm
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I can't keep my kiln outside, where I torch. I did the foil part, but not the handle part. Shoot, good idea. It's too late now, I'm going to put an order in for the bubbles, I think, since I need to get something anyway.
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Old 2013-12-03, 8:59am
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I can't keep my kiln outside, where I torch. I did the foil part, but not the handle part. Shoot, good idea. It's too late now, I'm going to put an order in for the bubbles, I think, since I need to get something anyway.
Line a paint can with your old fiber blanket and fill the middle with the annealing bubbles. Works great!
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