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The Dark Room -- Photo Editing and Picture Taking. Advice, tutorials, questions on all things photoshop, photo editing, and taking pictures of beads or glass.

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  #1  
Old 2011-03-25, 7:28am
nevadaglass nevadaglass is offline
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Default Question on really reflective items

HELP!

I have been trying to photo one of my more recent group of projects and I am having difficulty taking a really good pic of them because the glass on the front keeps reflecting everything in it including me and the camera. I don't really want to see me or my camera in my shots.....

How do you get around it?

I have tried changing angles, backgrounds, take the pics at night in the dark but I cant seem to get past that ugly glare....

I am including a few pics so you can see what I mean





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  #2  
Old 2011-03-25, 8:30am
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check the Frantz art blog. it has some useful photography tuts - i recall seeing one post related to reflective items.

found it!: http://frantznewsletter.com/?p=302
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  #3  
Old 2011-03-25, 9:00am
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Hi!
I would try using a polarizing filter.
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  #4  
Old 2011-03-25, 11:05am
mikefrantz mikefrantz is offline
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Hi,

From what it looks like you are one light with out a diffuser which is causing a lot of contrast. So some ares look to bright while other areas are to dark. If you use a diffuser and bounce that will soften the contrast.

As for the glare I would recommend turning off all the lights except the ones you are using for lighting. That way you can position it at a level and angle that will produce the least amount of glare in the camera lens. Another thing is to position the light box so it is at a slight angle so that the glare will bounce away from the camera.

If you are still having problems try pointing the light at the wall or ceiling. That will really soften the light. But you will have to shoot with a longer exposure because it will be dark.
here is a link to how to create your own light diffuser and light bounce for around $10. I use these things with my photos here at Frantz, so I know they work.

Click here view how to make a diffuser and light bounce.

Let me know how it works for you,
Thanks!
Keith
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  #5  
Old 2011-03-25, 12:26pm
nevadaglass nevadaglass is offline
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thanks Keith!

Actually had 3 lights on - 2 pole lights with bounce umbrellas and 1 spot. I even turned the spot off on the bottom darker pic to see if the spot was causing the issue....even in that pic glare was less but you can see the reflection of the edge of the table and drape cloth

I have an ez cube but I hate using it as it takes up too much space on my photo table and is a pain to set up and take down. Plus the backdrops are always wrinkled (And they have been hanging up for over 6 months LOL) I dont want to have to iron them all so I have been doing something similar to the tutorial you sent. I used black foam board and set it up with 3 walls and then have been using the light umbrellas that I purchased with just regular fabric draped over the foam board for a backdrop. The lights are these....

http://www.amazon.com/PHOTOGRAPHY-CO...1081845&sr=8-1



one on each side.....is this the problem? having on on each side?

BTW - ty ewdb - I just read that newsletter and will try some of those tips....

Last edited by nevadaglass; 2011-03-25 at 1:00pm.
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  #6  
Old 2011-03-25, 12:48pm
nevadaglass nevadaglass is offline
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hmmm after thinking about these posts, I am now thinking I might actually try using just 1 umbrella light in different positions and see what I get. I have NOT played around with them too much as I am usually trying to photo something last minute so usually dont have the time to just play.....working a fulltime job in addition to running the studio so time gets away - tbh - it was easier to just ask so I apologize for being lazy and not doing the research up front.

Last edited by nevadaglass; 2011-03-25 at 12:52pm.
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  #7  
Old 2011-03-25, 3:04pm
Mike Jordan Mike Jordan is offline
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You have to think how light behaves. Light goes line of site and bounces off of objects at 90 degree angles. Think about how a pool ball acts when you hit it with the stick and bounces off the bumper. Light bounces the same way. This means that it's predictable and controllable. A good way to tell if you are going to see reflections come back at you is put a mirror where your glass is and shine lights on it. Then look through your camera view finder. If you can see the light, you will see reflections. You don't want your lights at 45 degree angles from you. that means the light hits your glass and bounces at 45 degrees. 45 degrees plus 45 degrees = 90 degrees and the light bounces right back at your camera. So you want to make the angle of your lights less or greater than 45 degrees. When you use 2 or 3 lights, you have to consider all those angles that the light is bouncing off the glass at. One or more of them is going to be bouncing at a 90 degree angle from your camera position unless you are careful where you place them. Don't forget that this is 3D also. Any light placed to the right or left as well as above and below that will create a 90 degree angle back to your camera is going to show up as a reflection of some kind. Of course this is assuming a flat reflective surface. Once you introduce curved, round, convex, concave, odd shapes, etc., it gets even more interesting.

Light placement is something that is learned... some learn faster than others. If you practice enough and understand the properties of light direction, pretty soon you can do all the calculations in your head as to where the best angles are to place lights.

You also want the largest light source you can create. This is where light panels and diffusers come in. You put a smaller light source behind it, the light hits the diffuser and gets spread out into a bigger light source. Of course you lose light in the process, both from absorption and from light reflecting back towards the light and at angles away from the diffuser. Only a certain percent of light goes through the diffuser and falls on your object. You light tent is turning the lights that fall on it into a bigger light source, which softens and diffuses it. Think of the sun shining. You have a very dark shadow when there are no clouds. This is because the sun is a "small' light source. Now bring in a layer of clouds. Your shadow gets lighter and softer. This is because the sun has become a bigger light source. Now bring in another layer of clouds and your shadow gets even fainter and less distinct. It also gets less bright out. The sun is still a big light source, but now the thicker clouds are diffusing the light even more. If the clouds get thick enough, you will have hardly any shadow at all and the light will be nice and soft and smooth... also it will be low contrast, which makes thinks look dull. So you have to find the balance between light and diffusion to go with what you are trying to do.

If you don't like using your light tent, make some light panels. These work great and can really soften the light. I made a 6' x 4' light panel out of PVC and sport nylon for under $35 (and the $35 bought almost enough to do 2 of them, but one was plenty).

Here is a PVC frame and panel I made out of a window screen repair kit that I hung from the frame:


Here is the larger panel I made:



The PVC panels had a C clamp (what is used to connect two chain link fence panels together) connecting them so the two sides could be adjusted making it free standing. That way you can move them around with your lights to get the best angles.

One other trick that most people think is opposite to what you should do when getting reflections and highlights... most people move their light away from the object. But again, this makes your light smaller. The trick is to move your light closer, in fact as close as you can get it without it being in the picture. This makes your light source a bigger light source as compared to your object and also reduces the amount of bounce you get from the light since it doesn't have as far to travel before it hits your object.

Ok, I've probably rambled enough to just make it more confusing, but if you learn how light behaves, you will be well ahead of the game.

Mike
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  #8  
Old 2011-03-25, 5:28pm
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szglassy szglassy is offline
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Mike, what is the purpose of the black screen?
BTW..great idea for the diffuser thanks for sharing!
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  #9  
Old 2011-03-25, 5:50pm
Mike Jordan Mike Jordan is offline
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Szglassy, the black screen is used to shield me from the flash. A lot of times I'd shoot either beside or back behind the light panel. Without the black nylon there, the light that reflected back from the white panel might hit my lens and cause flare. The sport nylon comes in different colors as well as black and white. I like sport nylon over ripstop nylon because it is very close to the material that you find in umbrellas and soft boxes. The black is good for blocking light and creating negative light areas. I also carry a piece of the black in my camera bag when I'm out hiking as it makes a great ground cover on wet ground so I can put my camera bag down or kneel on to get close ups or a low angle. You can find it in JoAnn's near the ripstop nylon. It is about a $1 a yard more though, but still not bad.

Mike
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  #10  
Old 2011-03-25, 7:07pm
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got cha!
nevadaglass....they make a non-glare plate glass.do you think that might help? depending on the frame,you could change out the glass for the shot? just a thought
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  #11  
Old 2011-03-28, 1:43pm
nevadaglass nevadaglass is offline
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Mike - thank you very much for the tips!

SZ - the obvious never crossed my mind - nevr thought about changing out the glass with a non glare glass - that would be too easy!

Last edited by nevadaglass; 2011-03-28 at 1:56pm.
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